K&L pilot screws 18-3683

[Locomotive]

Hello all- I have worked on motorcycles and anything else with an engine (from weedwhackers to large trucks) for 4+ decades but am new to the Valk (bringing my '99 home in a few weeks once the VT winter salt is off of the roads), so please excuse if this is a newbish question. My new-to-me Valk is in great shape but I want to refresh much of the fuel system simply due to age/time- especially because at least now the parts seem mostly readily available and affordable and who knows what will be available in 5-10+ years from now.

If I understand correctly (and that's what I want to check by this question) the factory pilot screws have a d-shaped head to try to deter user adjustment, and require a special tool/adapter. I bought one of those (Motion Pro) but it is so tiny it looks like it is going to be a PIA to use.

I also found K&L slotted pilot screws 18-3683 that are listed as fitting the Valk.

Am I understanding correctly that if I buy a batch of the K&L 18-3683 pilot screws, I can get rid of the OE D-head screws?

Thanks!

[da prez]

Buy the proper tool and keep them oem. Red eye has a brass tool and there are others on the market.
 If it is running , I use Berryman's B12. Put in a half can , fill the tank and run or drive the bike for 20 minutes or so and leave it sit for a day. Then take it out and run it . Refill with fresh fuel.
  Check for vacuum leaks or bad lines. I de smog all the bikes that I buy and reccomend it on all that i work on.

                                 da prez                                         

[Locomotive]

Buy the proper tool and keep them oem.
                                 da prez                                       

Thanks for the reply. Is there a disadvantage (lower quality or something?) to the K&L?

I do plan to do a desmog. Thanks

[turtle254]

Price ... @ 12.95 ea. = 77.70

[98valk]

this is the best honda tool to get, it was org listed for the cbr900.

it has a flexible spring head. been using it for yrs.

07MMA-MT3010B WRENCH PILOT SCREW

[John Schmidt]

Or do as I did when I pulled my carbs. Used my Dremel with a cutting wheel and simply cut a slot in the heads. Now if I need to adjust the pilots, I can use a 1/4" drive with a flat blade screwdriver bit.

[Ricky-D]

It is confounding why someone would want to replace the pilot screws in the carburetors.

The pilot screw do not wear out, and there is no performance gain by changing out the screws.

You can read many posts over the years that report the adjustment of the pilot screws is not a sensitive procedure that affect the idle demonstratively.

If the engine runs fine, there is no indication then, that the pilot screws need any adjustment at all.

If you want to change anything regarding the pilot screws, then change out the 'O' rings on the screws, not that they necessarily need changing.

Pilot screw that have not been turned can present real problems when attempting to turn then for the first time.

It would be much better to synchronize the carburetors than to try adjusting the pilot screws, much less replacing them.

Attempting to adjust the pilot screws prior to a carburetor synchronization is folly, and a very rookie move.

Running a few tanks-full of gasoline additive through the system should be the first course of action before anything.

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