charging battery before use

[Oss]

I ordered a new Yuasa battery

The kind you put the acid in and charge it up

I have a smart bmw charger 1.25 amps

How long would I need to keep in on the charger to be sure max charge?

Thanks

Oss

[Firefight100]

Here is the manual with charge times for you.  http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf

[Chrisj CMA]

I ordered a new Yuasa battery

The kind you put the acid in and charge it up

I have a smart bmw charger 1.25 amps

How long would I need to keep in on the charger to be sure max charge?

Thanks

Oss

If it's a smart charger won't it tell you when the battery is fully charged. My dumb charger has two lights yellow for charging and then green when it's done.   A smart charger probably calls your smart phone with the big news. Lol

[Paladin528]

A Smart charger will generally behave like a constant current charger until almost fully charged and will then revert to a pulse or taper charge.  use that to gauge the charging time.  or since its a smart charger just leave it for 24 hours to be sure.

[Gryphon Rider]

The top of my last Yuasa battery said: Charging method 1.4A 5-10 hours.
Calculating for 1.25A gives 5.6-11.2 hours.

[The emperor has no clothes]

The top of my last Yuasa battery said: Charging method 1.4A 5-10 hours.
Calculating for 1.25A gives 5.6-11.2 hours.

But that’s in Canadian hours. What is the current conversion rate ?

[Jess from VA]

That first charge is the most important one it gets, and you should endeavor to use the amps and time that is recommended as optimal. (or as close as you can)

Going too fast with more power or too slow with a pure trickle is not an optimal first charge.

Also, be sure to NOT stick the sealed battery cell plugs in until after that first charge.  Let it breathe.  Even with a vent, that thing can explode sulfuric acid (especially if you are charging at a higher rate than recommended for the first charge).

Never do the first charge IN the bike either.

[Pete]

That first charge is the most important one it gets, and you should endeavor to use the volts/amps and time that is recommended as optimal. (or as close as you can)

Going too fast with more power or too slow with a pure trickle is not an optimal first charge.   

We are in agreement  except LOW and SLOW is always better with all chargers.
Less heat, better assorbation (sp), improved de-sulfation (sp).

[oldsmokey]

You may find after initial charge, and a good rest period, level of fluid may drop slightly? If top off is needed, distilled water is usually recommended.
Myself, I would charge a day and settle a half.

[Jess from VA]

That first charge is the most important one it gets, and you should endeavor to use the volts/amps and time that is recommended as optimal. (or as close as you can)

Going too fast with more power or too slow with a pure trickle is not an optimal first charge.   

We are in agreement  except LOW and SLOW is always better with all chargers.
Less heat, better assorbation (sp), improved de-sulfation (sp).

OK, if you say so.  I just try and follow the directions the best I can.

If 1.4 amps is called for, and you stick a .2 trickle, even for longer, is that really better for that first charge?  

And if .2 is one seventh of 1.4, does that mean the first charge at .2 should be seven times as long as the time called for at 1.4?   I'm not being a smart ass, I just don't know.  But surely that would be way too long for an initial charge.  I was afraid using the very low charge Battery Tender Jr was a bad idea, even if it's brain only let it charge until it knew it was enough, and went to float mode on its own.  I used 2 amps on a timer instead.  It was closer to 1.4 than the Battery Tender Jr.

[Gryphon Rider]

Anywhere between 1 & 2 Amperes should be fine, and even a little outside that range will be okay.  Most car battery chargers have a switch for 2A charging, which would be fine for the initial charge.  That's what I did before I got a smart charger, and my batteries have lasted 7-8 years.  If charging with a higher current (up to 6A, after the initial charge), just make sure the battery can cool as it charges, i.e. take it out of the bike so air can get at it.

The way charging works is that a given battery in a given condition (new vs. old, sulphated vs. not sulphated) can only absorb charging power at a given rate.  It also has a given internal resistance.  Any current not used to charge the battery will be turned into heat.  Too much heat for too long will damage the battery.  Also a factor is the voltage of the battery, i.e. its state of discharge.  Because of the difference between the charging voltage and the battery's voltage, a deeply discharged battery will draw more current than an almost fully-charged battery.

[Pete]

That first charge is the most important one it gets, and you should endeavor to use the volts/amps and time that is recommended as optimal. (or as close as you can)

Going too fast with more power or too slow with a pure trickle is not an optimal first charge.   

We are in agreement  except LOW and SLOW is always better with all chargers.
Less heat, better assorbation (sp), improved de-sulfation (sp).

OK, if you say so.  I just try and follow the directions the best I can.

If 1.4 amps is called for, and you stick a .2 trickle, even for longer, is that really better for that first charge?  

And if .2 is one seventh of 1.4, does that mean the first charge at .2 should be seven times as long as the time called for at 1.4?   I'm not being a smart ass, I just don't know.  But surely that would be way too long for an initial charge.  I was afraid using the very low charge Battery Tender Jr was a bad idea, even if it's brain only let it charge until it knew it was enough, and went to float mode on its own.  I used 2 amps on a timer instead.  It was closer to 1.4 than the Battery Tender Jr.

1.4 is low and slow. 2 amps or less is considered low. Using a trickle charge is typically a maintainer rather than a charger.

A long slow charge (2 amp) has brought back seemingly dead batteries for me. A 2 amp charger that tapers to zero is an excellent choice to use.

Just my opinions based on experience.

[Jess from VA]

Well OK that make compete sense.  I thought you were saying 1.4 to 2 was medium charging, not low charging, like a miliamp trickle charger*.

*Those may be great maintainers, but I think not good initial chargers.

[MarkT]

i have a large NAPA pro charger on wheels that has manual controls.  I charge new batteries at 2amps on a timer at the factory-specified time.  Always works and yields max power out of the batteries.

[¿spoom]

These following comments are based on what I learned at C&D (makers of large lead acid forklift batteries, among others) battery school in the early 80's; Never put a new automotive electrical system's battery into use until it's been fully charged. Grabbing one off a shelf and using the car's system to "finish charging it" can cost up to 20% of the new battery's life vs design expectancy. Charge large car/truck batteries at no more than 4 amps, smaller MC/lawn tractor batteries at no more than 2 amps. Common battery tenders putting out 1.4 & 0.8 amps are fine for MC batteries, they just take a little longer. Just to use easy numbers, say you bought a battery rated at 30amp hours (AH). At an imaginary use of 3 amps, it would last 10 hours. At higher current draw, like 20 amps the math changes somewhat i.e. you wouldn't get the full 1½ hours of 30÷20, but I digress, and pulling 20 amps from a 30amp hour battery is pronounce "battery suicide" anyway☺
Pulling 2 amps from a 30 AH battery would give you about 15 hours, and conversely, you can guestimate about 15 hours for a 2A charger to bring it up from nothing, except if your new battery reads nothing you'd bring it back 'cause it's NFG. That's why it's easy to get a zillion different guesses on how long it'll take to charge, and the charger will probably make you wrong on all of them. It's easiest to get close by just approximating how low the battery is. On a new lead acid battery, if we use 13.4 no load volts as 100% charged, and the battery is actually reading 12volts, you're looking to raise it 1.4 volts. On paper, an older "straight, or dumb" 1.4A charger would take just over an hour to charge it. The problem is newer chargers don't put a straight x-amps out continuously like the 1960s $5 Wards battery charger that blasted out 14v-15v at whatever amps until the battery smelled like it was a bad sourkraut experiment. New battery chargers may put out 15volts at first and taper down as the battery comes up to full, reducing heat and chances of outgassing. Kind of like how you fill a coffee cup-pour fast at first, then back off as it approaches the rim. Did this definitively answer the question? Um, I was hoping folks would have stopped reading before now and not noticed...    

[Paladin528]

I did a little experiment on my old bad battery before I disposed of it.
I hooked up my charger and dialed it up to 6 amps.
After about 5 minutes the electrolyte started to boil.  This causes 2 problems.  Batteries off gas HYDROGEN which is (see Hindenburgh) explosive.  VENTILATE WELL.
The other is that is will DESTROY the plates in the battery.
The other side effect is that you will lose electrolyte in the process.

While you may get away with a quick "boost" at 6 amps or more.  Do not charge at anything above 2 amps on a motorcycle battery.

[Pete]

Just a couple of things to consider about charging any battery.

If the liquid is at a rolling boil by sound or view, immediately reduce the charge rate.
I prefer no boil or a very low gentle rolling boil.

Also I prefer to charge at a rate that generates little to no heat on the battery walls.

WARNING: a battery under charge (even 2 amps) can fracture the case (mild explosion), so be cautious. Even a car battery on 2 amp charge. Loosing the caps (if possible) will limit pressure build up and reduce the possibility of case fracture.

Always check the liquid in the battery and top off if low before charging, if possible.
On a new battery that has just had liquid added WAIT for 30 minutes to 1 hour before starting the charge and check the level again and top off before starting the charger.

[Gryphon Rider]

I did a little experiment on my old bad battery before I disposed of it.
I hooked up my charger and dialed it up to 6 amps.
After about 5 minutes the electrolyte started to boil.  This causes 2 problems.  Batteries off gas HYDROGEN which is (see Hindenburgh) explosive.  VENTILATE WELL.
The other is that is will DESTROY the plates in the battery.
The other side effect is that you will lose electrolyte in the process.

While you may get away with a quick "boost" at 6 amps or more.  Do not charge at anything above 2 amps on a motorcycle battery.

The key words here are "old bad battery".

We can give our batteries a quick charge at 6A (after a proper low current pre-installation charge).  See below.

[Pete]

Yes, you can (Gryphon Rider), I am not willing to do that, and I would suggest that you not.

Your money, your choices.

[¿spoom]

I did a little experiment on my old bad battery before I disposed of it.
I hooked up my charger and dialed it up to 6 amps.
After about 5 minutes the electrolyte started to boil.  This causes 2 problems.  Batteries off gas HYDROGEN which is (see Hindenburgh) explosive.  VENTILATE WELL.
The other is that is will DESTROY the plates in the battery.
The other side effect is that you will lose electrolyte in the process.

While you may get away with a quick "boost" at 6 amps or more.  Do not charge at anything above 2 amps on a motorcycle battery.

The key words here are "old bad battery".

We can give our batteries a quick charge at 6A (after a proper low current pre-installation charge).  

True, putting 6 amps into an old battery with plate area insulated by a layer of hardened sulfates is very different from a brand new, partially charged battery that will readily accept transfer. I have the utmost respect for the smart guys at YUASA, so if they say it's OK I believe them. Personally I won't go over 4 amps because I don't like even small bubbles when I charge a lead acid battery. I believe if the liquid is at a rolling boil by sound or view, one should immediately add rice, and remove all energy sources.   

[cookiedough]

I have a 1 amp charger for motorcycles and usually go 9-12 hours or so first charge, not rocket science by any means.  I do not think 24 hour is really needed or much over 12 first charge even on 1 amp, but I could be wrong as usual...

[sandy]

OSS; Did you get all this?

[Bighead]

What kind of oil goes in a battery anyway?

[Pete]

What kind of oil goes in a battery anyway?

Snake oil???? 

[JimC]

What kind of oil goes in a battery anyway?

That is a foolish question, synthetic oil of course.

Jim

[Jess from VA]

There's often a little acid left over from a new battery charge.

The ants don't like it.  (Don't tell the EPA though)

[Valkorado]

One thing about trickle chargers.  You definitely get what you pay for.  If you want true battery maintenance, you need to purchase a charger with desulphating feature.  While normal trickle chargers can actually decrease the life of your battery, these chargers are great for motorcycles and can actually increase battery life.  Some estimates say by as much as 5x.

Why desulfator?

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/interior-electrical/impp-1105-battery-desulfators-fact-fiction/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DX1OaMYp6Kw

https://www.pulsetech.net/our-technology/pulse-technology.html

The one I use.



https://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Charge-XC100-P-Maintenance-Desulfator/dp/B001JSTM8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526138873&sr=1-1&keywords=Xtreme+charger

Use one charger to charge, maintain and desulphate up to four batteries consecutively :



https://www.ebay.com/itm/QUADLINK-4-Channel-Battery-Charger-Multiplier-XC-QL4-Xtreme-Charge/332647945907?epid=1801841528&hash=item4d735cd6b3:g:K4UAAOxy4t1Sg8hO

Another good one.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G3500-UltraSafe-Battery-Charger/dp/B004LWVEKS/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526139362&sr=1-10&keywords=Desulfator+charger

[Beer van Huet]

I just charged my new YUASA battery.
The old one would remain at 12.9 V after charging.
I left the charger on for 24 hrs and the new battery voltage eventually creeped to 14.0 V