Leaking forks

[RonW]

carolinarider09, that back-up ring I suggested you buy to drive in the oil seals ..... won't work on inverted forks. It'll be impossible to remove unless it's splited in two halves. My bad.

[carolinarider09]

carolinarider09, that back-up ring I suggested you buy to drive in the oil seals ..... won't work on inverted forks. It'll be impossible to remove unless it's splited in two halves. My bad.

Thanks for the info.  I am going to remove the shields tomorrow and try the Risk Racing Seal Doctor.

[carolinarider09]

Ok, tired to remove the dust seals today to use the Seal Doctor.  I could not easily get them loose.  So, I did not want to force them.

I have seen pictures/videos of them being easily pried loose. Such was not the case with mine. I was afraid I would damage them.

Any suggestions?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Ok, tired to remove the dust seals today to use the Seal Doctor.  I could not easily get them loose.  So, I did not want to force them.

I have seen pictures/videos of them being easily pried loose. Such was not the case with mine. I was afraid I would damage them.

Any suggestions?

I've been using one of those cheap plastic putty knives. Once you get it started, they come off pretty easily.

[jabster]

Man. I'm getting no notifications from this site. Dang.

Based on some other comments and after looking the reassembly process, I opted to take the forks off and take them in to the dealer to have them repaired. I'd have to buy those tools, and my time and safety is worth taking these in to be repaired Right.

I'm also having progressive springs installed while they're there.

Thanks,
John

[jabster]

the poster linked a photo of the mouse peed.

Is there an easy way to embed an image here? I couldn't figure it out.

Thanks,
John

[Valkorado]

Ok, tired to remove the dust seals today to use the Seal Doctor.  I could not easily get them loose.  So, I did not want to force them.

I have seen pictures/videos of them being easily pried loose. Such was not the case with mine. I was afraid I would damage them.

Any suggestions?

I've been using one of those cheap plastic putty knives. Once you get it started, they come off pretty easily.

I've had to get them started using a very thin screwdriver.  Not sure it's necessary but I also pulled the dust seal springs out of their grooves.  Slide the seals all the way down.  Push that Seal Doctor all the way up as far as it'll go until it starts to leak - - have some clean rags handy for the oil - - and spin it around two full revolutions.  It'll be slippery, rags and rubber gloves help.  Clean the forks up, slide the seals back  up and put the springs back into the grooves.   Remember to pump the forks several times with front brake engaged when you're done.

[RonW]

Is there an easy way to embed an image here? I couldn't figure it out.

If it's your own pictures, as opposed to a pic already on the Internet, you'll have to store your pic on a photo hosting website. Do a search on *free photo hosting websites.* After you done that, you next have to find and copy the pic's *url* ..... the pic's assigned Internet address ..... from your photo hosting website. On this forum's editor page, click the *insert photo* button (red arrow). Then paste the url in the space between the opening and closing tags (second pic). Just for practice, go to this forum's editor page, and click the *insert photo* button, then insert the url below between the opening and closing tags.

(copy and paste this url). http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/files/bbs_ads/atticratad.png

[carolinarider09]

Meathead and Valkorado;

Thanks for the information.  I will get a plastic putty knife.  I will have to look at manual again but I thought that once I got the dust seal off, I will have the access needed to use the seal doctor. 

On my bike, those dust seals just seam very firmly attached. 

[F6Dave]

Here's how to change fork seals without removing the fork or using the special tool:

[The emperor has no clothes]

Meathead and Valkorado;

Thanks for the information.  I will get a plastic putty knife.  I will have to look at manual again but I thought that once I got the dust seal off, I will have the access needed to use the seal doctor. 

On my bike, those dust seals just seam very firmly attached. 

They are. But once you get them started, they come out pretty easily.

[F6Dave]

I've ridden my Valkyries and Goldwings nearly 350,000 combined miles so I've had the pleasure of changing a lot of fork seals.  The method I posted above (from the old VRCC board) saves an hour or two over the method in Honda's shop manual.  Honda's method calls for a level of disassembly that simply isn't necessary for replacing the seals and bushings.  The only reason to use their method is if you want to change the springs.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind.  The dust seal is a tight press fit.  I usually use a screwdriver with a thin, wide blade to pry it off.  Work on it a bit from opposite sides to get it started.

You'll need something to drive the new seal into its seat in the upper fork tube.  They make a special tool, but I just bought a cheap 2" PVC pipe collar (maybe it was 1-1/2") and cut it lengthwise with a hacksaw.  Then I snapped it around the fork tube and used it to drive the seal into place.

Seating the new seal is maybe the toughest part of the whole job.  LOTS of lubrication will make it seat easier, and oil works better than grease.

It's amazing how often you can repair a leak by cleaning the fork seal.  In my experience, cleaning out the seal fixes leaks more than half the time.  The Seal Doctor is by far the best tool for the job as it gives you leverage, gets out the deep junk, and cleans evenly around the full circumference of the seal.

[carolinarider09]

As Meathead said, once I got the dust seals sort of moving they came out easily and went back in fairly easily.

I used the Rick Racing Seal Doctor, running it around the seal twice and then around the dust seal twice.

Reinstalled the dust seals.  Now will take if for a ride and see what happens.

Question:  Since I have lost some fork oil, maybe a couple of ounces, should I add some more to the forks or just wait and see what happens?

[Jess from VA]

Since I have lost some fork oil, maybe a couple of ounces, should I add some more to the forks or just wait and see what happens?

Wait, and see what happens.  My forks dried up nicely (multiple times) after seal cleaning.  And handled fine.  No sense taking things apart right away.  See what you have first.

1) leak stopped?  (If not, do it again)

2) ride OK?

You may still need to rebuild at some point. But maybe not for some time.

Do not forget to bounce the front end hard as you can after each cleaning.  I got more action from the seat, than from the side.

After cleaning, I wiped up everything spic and span, so I could inspect closely after (during) each ride.

[carolinarider09]

Thanks Jess,

I thought I was suppose to bounce them but did not so may just clean them again bounce.

I will ride and see.

Thanks again for your prompt reply.

[F6Dave]

As Meathead said, once I got the dust seals sort of moving they came out easily and went back in fairly easily.

I used the Rick Racing Seal Doctor, running it around the seal twice and then around the dust seal twice.

Reinstalled the dust seals.  Now will take if for a ride and see what happens.

Question:  Since I have lost some fork oil, maybe a couple of ounces, should I add some more to the forks or just wait and see what happens?

These forks hold a lot of oil, something like 25 ounces.  I've never added any after fixing a leak.

I had a pretty good leak on my Interstate 2 years ago.  I used the Seal Doctor and it was improved, but still seeped a slight amount of oil.  So I used it again and the leak was completely gone, and hasn't returned for 2 years.  That Seal Doctor is great.

[carolinarider09]

This morning I used the Seal Doctor on both sides and when finished (did the dust seal too) I sat on the bike, held the front brake and bounced the front several times.

I then put a paper towel under the area that showed a leak on the floor before.  Came back in a couple of hours and the towel was still dry. 

Will ride it later and then re-check for leaks.

[carolinarider09]

Did about 30 mile ride this morning and returned.  Parked the bike with a paper towel under the leak area.  As of some 3 hours later, no leaks seem to be apparent.  Will just keep and eye on it.

Seems like the seal doctor worked.

Update:  7/28  Still no leaks will need to do a longer ride to see what happens.  Now to fix the noise problem in the audio system.

[jabster]

Is there an easy way to embed an image here? I couldn't figure it out.

If it's your own pictures, as opposed to a pic already on the Internet, you'll have to store your pic on a photo hosting website. Do a search on *free photo hosting websites.* After you done that, you next have to find and copy the pic's *url* ..... the pic's assigned Internet address .....

Thanks!

[saddlesore]

 
After changing the seals  i still had a small leak.  I cleaned under the seal and fixed the leak but wanted to top off the oil so I added what  i thought was lost. 
I went for a ride and I blew the seal and retaining ring out.   OOPS!  too much oil.
I took the tube out to reseal it and since  i lost all of the oil I could get an accurate measurement.   
My .02 worth

[carolinarider09]

Took it for a short ride yesterday and returned and checked for leaks later that afternoon.  None present.  

I wondered about how you can tell how much oil was lost, not having ever filled a fork on any of my bikes.  

Thanks saddlesore for the feedback.  

[Jess from VA]

My bike leaked off and on for 3-4 years; off because I used the seal mate a number of times, but it came back months later. (mostly on the right, but I had a little left leak too which didn't come back much after cleaning)

Now my leak was never bad or much or even touched the ground or brakes.  But the fine mist all over my timing cover and pods (during riding) made it look worse than it was.

I never knew how much oil I lost, only that I could never feel a loss of fork function beyond essentially normal.  They were probably a tad softer than my other non-leaking interstate, but it never felt compromised or unsafe.... or I wouldn't have let it go for 3-4 years.  Repairing them is not within my skill set, so when Big Bill showed up at my house, he did a complete forks-off rebuild (with my bag of parts).  It doesn't leak anymore, but they don't have any extra-sturdy/stiff feel to them either.

So I'm real glad to have them fixed, but the difference before and after is not really huge (or even medium) either.

I'd write down (in my log where I write all maintenance, tires, oil/filters, air filters, batteries, plugs, hydraulics flushed-refilled, forks cleaned, miles and dates) what you did and when and miles, and just keep on going so long as everything seems OK.  

[carolinarider09]

Jess,

Thanks for the feedback.  I have never been real good at keeping a log on the bike.  Guess I should start.

That is something that the forum could consider.  A forum for maintenance and upgrades.  It would provide a place for folks to keep a log and have it available all the time no matter where you are as long as you had access to the internet.

[Jess from VA]

My log is simply a nice bound (red) book of plain lined paper. (Staples)

I would not use a looseleaf or ring binder where pages can go missing (but anything will work).

It stays out in the shed with the bikes, and includes all maintenance on all bikes and cars.  It's always out in plain view so I remember to use it.

I also keep a big folder with tons of receipts and other stuff (parts instructions, diagrams), but it has no rhyme or reason to find anything.  Another folder has about half the shoptalk articles printed out (and many other how-to articles), to use in conjunction with the shop manual (no computer in the shed).  

Every time you do anything to the bike (not tire air or washes and waxes), I make a log entry that must always have date, miles, vehicle and what was done. One bike is IS, the other IS is SV (supervalk) (both '99s).

It's really invaluable because there is no way to remember all that stuff.  And sometimes, you are looking not for how many miles are on on your oil/filter (miles), but how old is your battery or a tire (dates).  

With two Valks, I try to keep at least one set of brake pads fore and aft, air cleaner, uncharged Yuasa battery, oil/filters, headlight bulbs, a front tire (but no car tire rear because it can be years before I need another), and all sorts of stuff in my parts bin, and the log helps in reminding me to keep my parts stock up to snuff.

My entries are random between multiple vehicles, so it can take a few minutes to page back to find what I'm looking for, but it's all there.

It's never too late to start one.

The internet is a fickle bitch and computers crash... but my handwritten log lasts forever (greasy fingerprints and all).     If you wait to put it on your computer in the house, you'll forget.

You don't need it out on the road or on a trip.  Before any trip, I spend time with the log to make sure all maintenance is up to snuff before I leave.

PS: I've been printing everything I write since about 11th grade when I discovered I could very often not read my own cursive handwriting.    (I have long since lost the ability to do cursive handwriting, except a signature.... which is intentionally unreadable, though very consistent)

[carolinarider09]

PS: I've been printing everything I write since about 11th grade when I discovered I could very often not read my own cursive handwriting.    (I have long since lost the ability to do cursive handwriting, except a signature.... which is intentionally unreadable, though very consistent)

I do the same. I am left handed and stopped using cursive writing when I got access to a typewriter and then computers and printers. 

I will take your comments into consideration for my two bikes.