forgot to put air dam back

[luna negra]

Did some carb work & a desmog and re-assembled everything with no issues and in record time for me.  The bike is running like a new machine now.  The rubbing alcohol trick I read here worked great on the airbox tubes - thx for that tip!

While marveling my awesome handiwork,  I looked over and saw the air dam just sitting there propped up against the wall looking lonely that all his friends were back together again and he was missing the party.

Instead of tearing into her again, I jumped on this site and looked for threads addressing this.  The consensus seems to be that it's a hotter ride w/o it in place and a slight potential for vapor-locking.  Given that I ride in Texas where it's hot 9 months out of the year, how much hotter is hotter?  I don't ride a lot in stop and go traffic so I'm not worried about the vapor lock, but 5 degrees more under my butt is not going to make a big difference to me.  I'm curious if anyone else is riding around without this strange object installed and what their opinions might be.  Oh, it's a '98 Standard.  Thanks!

[The emperor has no clothes]

I've never run it without. So, I don't know. But I'd say in the long run you'd be better just biting the bullet now and reinstalling it.

[longrider]

Might be easier pulling the rad.  I think you can bend it in there from the front

[George B]

Might be easier pulling the rad.  I think you can bend it in there from the front

I just did a carb rebuild and thought it would be easier if it were in 2 pieces to install and split it down the middle and used # 40 bolts and nut to put it in one piece. It needs to be there, for sure.

[pancho]

While marveling my awesome handiwork,  I looked over and saw the air dam just sitting there propped up against the wall looking lonely that all his friends were back together again and he was missing the party.

I did the same about 18 months ago. Faced the same decision (it was painful!) and decided to ride. I rode without it for about six months, through the summer until the next time I pulled the carbs last winter.

I never noticed anything one way or the other, but I did put it back in last year when I had the chance.

[John Schmidt]

Keep this in mind next time any of you plan to pull the carbs: YOU DON'T NEED TO PULL THE AIR DAM TO PULL THE CARBS!  Loosen everything up on the carb bank so they're totally free, then unbolt the top engine hangers and move them back out of the way. Leaves you plenty of room to pull the carbs and it allows for clearing the high spot on the air dam, plus....the motor isn't going to fall out onto the garage floor. As for replacing the air dam, just get it hot and it bends quite easy. I've done it on a bike just by pulling the tank and airbox, it's not an easy job and will test your religion.

[9Ball]

I believe an added benefit for having the air dam in place is to shield the carbs and under-tank stuff from excessive water and dirt while riding in bad weather.  Obviously not 100% effective but may be significant reduction of direct impingement.

Removing it during carb work also exposes the radiator tubing and thermostat housing in case you want to replace hoses or thermostat and inspect for leaks, etc.

While the air dam comes out very easy, it sure is a PITA to replace.

I just wish the engineers had designed an easier way to connect the air box tubing to the carburetor assembly...much more difficult for me than re-installing the air dam.

Good luck....

[Jonesz]

I don't mean to hijack this but can I ask what the "alcohol trick is with the airbox tubes?  Have had mine out a couple of times and they are a bear to get back in properly!

[Bone]

Use rubbing alcohol as a lubricant around the inside edge of the rubber.
The tubes slide on easily the alcohol evaporates.
Works on gas lines too.
 

[2KVISRiderDan]

If you do install the air dam be careful not to do what I did after my carb rebuild. When I installed the dam I pinched the coolant return/overflow line heading from the radiator fill neck to the reservoir. I had it pinched shut between the frame & top of the dam. When the coolant warmed up I had a leak at the radiator cap or over flow hose connection just below the cap. I replaced  perfectly good chrome cap before I found the problem I caused.

[SCain]

Keep this in mind next time any of you plan to pull the carbs: YOU DON'T NEED TO PULL THE AIR DAM TO PULL THE CARBS!  Loosen everything up on the carb bank so they're totally free, then unbolt the top engine hangers and move them back out of the way. Leaves you plenty of room to pull the carbs and it allows for clearing the high spot on the air dam, plus....the motor isn't going to fall out onto the garage floor. As for replacing the air dam, just get it hot and it bends quite easy. I've done it on a bike just by pulling the tank and airbox, it's not an easy job and will test your religion.

I've pulled many carb sets and have never removed the air dam, I would say without it the carbs are going to get warm.

[RWhitehouse]

It was already missing when I got my Valk, I've never had any issues even idling through traffic in 105* Texas summers. No problems with hot restarting either. If vapor lock was going to be an issue I'm guessing I would have discovered it by now.

I can't say I notice any perceptible difference between mine and my buddy's Valk (with air dam) as far as engine heat. Both get toasty in hot weather in traffic. If anything mine is slightly better because the fan seems to run a lot less often, but that could be for any number of reasons. Mine cycles on/off maybe 50/50, where his seems to run pretty much constant.

I'm sure Honda put it there for a reason, but it's evidently not strictly necessary.

[luna negra]

Thanks for all the feedback.  Gonna leave it out at least thru the winter and see how it works out.

[nogrey]

Thanks for all the feedback.  Gonna leave it out at least thru the winter and see how it works out.

mine also doesn’t have one. I’m having some issues with “spunkiness”, but she was that way before the air dam was removed. That’s been 5 years now. She runs just like the day I got her.

[TTG53#1717]

When I first did mine it was pretty chilly and the dam was nearly impossible to flex. I put it in a bucket of almost boiling water, wore gloves when installing, and it really helped.
The 2nd time was 10+ yrs later and my arthritis told me not to even attempt it. I split it down the center vertically, pop riveted two pieces of 1/8 aluminum bar to the front of one side, spotted some holes and used self tapping screws through the other. A strip of black Gorilla Tape finished things up.
Well worth the few minutes it took to modify.
Anything that might help delay another failure of the fuel rail O-rings is worth replacing. Last June I almost went up in flames when the right bank sprung a major leak.

[John Schmidt]

I should add to my original answer....remove all the elbows before pulling the carbs out sideways. By doing that and removing the top engine hanger(s) on at least one side, you have all kinds of room without ever touching the air dam. The elbows are easy to remove, just loosen the hose clamps and either remove them or move them off the rubber, then grab the elbow and twist and pull. It will pop right out of the rubber connector.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I think the reason some of you folks have them missing is because they are a BITCH to get back in .

[Forge]

I finally started removing the rear hangers and the air dam became a piece of cake to reinstall.

[John Schmidt]

I finally started removing the rear hangers and the air dam became a piece of cake to reinstall.

Why remove it? My bike is 20 yrs. old and after pulling it ONE time I said no more....and haven't.

[Forge]

I finally started removing the rear hangers and the air dam became a piece of cake to reinstall.

Why remove it? My bike is 20 yrs. old and after pulling it ONE time I said no more....and haven't.

I always pulled my dam to pull my carbs. Then the last time, before reinstalling my carbs, I read about removing the upper rear mounts and did it. I unbolted them and moved them back. Then I replaced the dam without the carbs in place and then inserted the carbs and then re-secured the mounts. If I ever need to pull them again, the dam will stay in place and the rear mounts will be unbolted and moved back.