Valk started this am, then died, no lights no horn???

[captsharky]

Ok I thought it might be a fuse, just checked and they are all right. Main buss fuse looks good. Turn the key and nothing, how do I check to see if the key switch died? I removed the cover and took the key switch off, but don't see where I can check any of the wires to see if power is getting to it?

[Black Dog]

Dead bike can mean a bad 'Starter Relay'.  Similar thing happened to me, and $75 later, for a new relay, I was back on the road.

Go to this link, and scroll down to where it says 'Valkyrie starter "relay" problem'...  Good info, and a pretty easy fix.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Good luck.

Black Dog

[Dodis]

When I had the same thing happen, I thought of all that I had read here, starter switch, kill switch, relay, etc. In desperation, I checked the battery, a cell has died and the battery was not putting out anything, new battery fixed me right up.

Just something else to check...

Mike "Dodis"

[BamaDrifter64]

Are you sure the battery didn't take a dive on you?  I had one do that at a gas station once.  It was fine when I stopped; filled her up, turned the key, hit the starter switch and bang! battery was gone.  No amount of jumping it off or pushing it off will work once a battery cell goes south on you.  

Dave


Dang, Dodis....you beat me to the punch by just a couple of minutes!      

[kruzn]

Also check the connection where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine. I had the same symptoms and the relay, battery, etc. all checked OK. Replaced the neg cable and all was good.

Another potential problem is melted connection on the starter relay. Mine was melted but was not the problem in my case. However, I repaired the melted connector anyway to prevent future failure.

[R J]

Here is what  the melt connector looks like.

 

Order this little feller & you will be good to go.

You have to move a wire or 2 in the connector, just match the new one to your old one.
This part is for an older Gold Wing and works just fine.

Lots cheaper than the Valkyrie solution

[captsharky]

No luck there, it looks ok, and the fuse was alright. Got power at the battery, but no where else. It does have to get thru the key switch for power to get to the relay right?

[captsharky]

All checks out, got plenty of juice at the battery, but I'll go check the battery ground on the engine. Relay is fine, no problems there.
Thanks,
Sharky

Also check the connection where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine. I had the same symptoms and the relay, battery, etc. all checked OK. Replaced the neg cable and all was good.

Another potential problem is melted connection on the starter relay. Mine was melted but was not the problem in my case. However, I repaired the melted connector anyway to prevent future failure.

[captsharky]

Battery ground cable is tight, doesn't seem to be a problem there.?????????

All checks out, got plenty of juice at the battery, but I'll go check the battery ground on the engine. Relay is fine, no problems there.
Thanks,
Sharky

Also check the connection where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine. I had the same symptoms and the relay, battery, etc. all checked OK. Replaced the neg cable and all was good.

Another potential problem is melted connection on the starter relay. Mine was melted but was not the problem in my case. However, I repaired the melted connector anyway to prevent future failure.

[roboto65]

Starter switch is dirty check that it should fix you up !!

[captsharky]

OK, stupid question time, just how do you mean that, I took the cover off, and disconnected it, and it look clean on the back side. Are you saying to spray some contact cleaner in there???

Starter switch is dirty check that it should fix you up !!

[Bone]

Have you done the starter button maintenance ?  This has helped most of us with similar conditions.


http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

[roboto65]

Sorry meant the Starter button check the site Bone put up 

[kruzn]

Don't assume that a tight bolt on the neg cable to engine connection is OK. Mine was tight too. Take the bolt out, clean the bolt, cable terminal and engine case. Reinstall with a star washer on each side of the terminal, or at least one between the terminal and the engine.

I chased the same problem as yours for two weeks because I assumed a tight bolt meant a good electrical connection. Not saying that it is necessarily your problem too, but it is worth a few minutes work to make sure.

[RoboCop]

Dunno about you but I can't figure anything electrical out without a diagram.

I'm with RJ, first guess would be to check the red connector on the starter relay.  If you have voltage on the red wire terminal and want to test the ignition switch, it seems that testing for voltage where the ignition feeds into the fuseblock might be easiest.

Good luck

[captsharky]

Don't think it's the starter button, there is no power even making it to the fuse. But thanks.

Have you done the starter button maintenance ?  This has helped most of us with similar conditions.


http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

[captsharky]

Ok, I'll get in there tonight when I get home and do just that. Thanks for the feedback.
Sharky

Don't assume that a tight bolt on the neg cable to engine connection is OK. Mine was tight too. Take the bolt out, clean the bolt, cable terminal and engine case. Reinstall with a star washer on each side of the terminal, or at least one between the terminal and the engine.

I chased the same problem as yours for two weeks because I assumed a tight bolt meant a good electrical connection. Not saying that it is necessarily your problem too, but it is worth a few minutes work to make sure.

[captsharky]

I hear you there, I'll print these when I get home and do some more testing. Thanks for the diagram. And DLParts does not have any and would have to order the key switch or the lock set, either way. Looks like this is going to be a two week ordeal!!!!
Thanks,
Sharky

Dunno about you but I can't figure anything electrical out without a diagram.

I'm with RJ, first guess would be to check the red connector on the starter relay.  If you have voltage on the red wire terminal and want to test the ignition switch, it seems that testing for voltage where the ignition feeds into the fuseblock might be easiest.

Good luck

[R J]

Captshark.    Currently you out rank me since I retired.

But I'm not sensing we are getting through to you.........

Let's try it by the #'s.

1.   Find right side cover
      a.  It be on the same side as the rear brake pedal.
2.   Remove side cover and be careful to not break any tabs off.
3.   Look for a fat round rubber cover.
4.   Pull it off the wires carefully.
      a.  You pull any junction points out, plug em back in before ya forget where they go.     Match colors.
5.   You should find a red connector like in the picture, hopefully in better shape.
6.   It has a fuse in it.  
      a.   Is the fuse stuck?
            1.  Pull fuse and look it over along with the connector.
            2.  Test fuse on both ends, if it will come out.
            3.  Repair as needed.
      b.  Not stuck
            2.   proceed to # 7
7.   PERFORM THE FIRKING STARTER SWITCH WE BEEN SUGGESTING FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS.............

Now, if I missed where you already did this, I'm sorry, but to make an old fart happy, DO IT AGAIN, LOOK IT OVER THIS TIME

[captsharky]

It's just sharky now, that left over from when I used to run a dive charter boat.
I follow you, and have done just that, pulled out the relay, checked the fuse, and condishion of the leads, and check all the other fuses. They all check out fine. With the key on, I have tested the leads to the relay, and no power there. A friend suggest to jump power from the battery to the light fuse and see if they come on. The battery shows good with the metter, and shows good to the ground on the engine. I am not sure why I would want to mess with the starter button, till I get power to the lights, if there is no power there, or to the light bar, which is relaied also there shouldn't be any power to the started button. If I get the lights back on, power running thru that circut, and the starter button doesn't work then I will check it out. I am guessing here but if the key switch doesn't pass power thru, then nothing else will work, like lights and horn, light bar????? So I need to pull the plug on it and see if it's getting power. If not then I guess it time to order one. I plan the check all that tomorrow, have to go to church tonight.

Sharky

Captshark.    Currently you out rank me since I retired.

But I'm not sensing we are getting through to you.........

Let's try it by the #'s.

1.   Find right side cover
      a.  It be on the same side as the rear brake pedal.
2.   Remove side cover and be careful to not break any tabs off.
3.   Look for a fat round rubber cover.
4.   Pull it off the wires carefully.
      a.  You pull any junction points out, plug em back in before ya forget where they go.     Match colors.
5.   You should find a red connector like in the picture, hopefully in better shape.
6.   It has a fuse in it.  
      a.   Is the fuse stuck?
            1.  Pull fuse and look it over along with the connector.
            2.  Test fuse on both ends, if it will come out.
            3.  Repair as needed.
      b.  Not stuck
            2.   proceed to # 7
7.   PERFORM THE FIRKING STARTER SWITCH WE BEEN SUGGESTING FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS.............

Now, if I missed where you already did this, I'm sorry, but to make an old fart happy, DO IT AGAIN, LOOK IT OVER THIS TIME

[mikeb]

if you jumped the contacts on the starter relay under the right side this would rule out bad connections from the battery to the frame the 10 mill nuts from one side to the other.. but make sure the bike is not in gear if it rolls over.. batt = good ..cables = good....   you have fuse or wiring bad  move on
 

[kruzn]

Sharky,
If you checked the battery-to-engine ground with a low-current continuity tester (or multimeter set on ohms) you may still not have a good ground on the battery cable. Try this:

- Set multimeter on 20 volt range
- Connect positive test lead to negative battery terminal
- Connect negative test lead to engine case (make sure you have good connection)
- The voltmeter should read zero if the cable connection is OK
- If you see 12 volts, then the cable connection is bad

Another way to check is to use jumper cables (regular jumper cables, not a light duty wire) to bypass the negative battery cable. Connect one of the jumper cables to negative battery terminal and the other end to good connection on the engine. Then try lights, ignition, starter.

Hope this helps.

[Ricky-D]

Sharky,
If you checked the battery-to-engine ground with a low-current continuity tester (or multimeter set on ohms) you may still not have a good ground on the battery cable. Try this:

- Set multimeter on 20 volt range
- Connect positive test lead to negative battery terminal
- Connect negative test lead to engine case (make sure you have good connection)
- The voltmeter should read zero if the cable connection is OK
- If you see 12 volts, then the cable connection is bad

Another way to check is to use jumper cables (regular jumper cables, not a light duty wire) to bypass the negative battery cable. Connect one of the jumper cables to negative battery terminal and the other end to good connection on the engine. Then try lights, ignition, starter.

Hope this helps.

I think it would stay at "zero" regardless.  That is to say there is no current flowing and should be no current flowing with the key in the "off" position.

***

[R J]

It's just sharky now, that left over from when I used to run a dive charter boat.
I follow you, and have done just that, pulled out the relay, checked the fuse, and condition of the leads, and check all the other fuses. They all check out fine. With the key on, I have tested the leads to the relay, and no power there. A friend suggest to jump power from the battery to the light fuse and see if they come on. The battery shows good with the meter, and shows good to the ground on the engine. I am not sure why I would want to mess with the starter button, till I get power to the lights, if there is no power there, or to the light bar, which is relaied also there shouldn't be any power to the started button. If I get the lights back on, power running thru that circuit, and the starter button doesn't work then I will check it out. I am guessing here but if the key switch doesn't pass power thru, then nothing else will work, like lights and horn, light bar????? So I need to pull the plug on it and see if it's getting power. If not then I guess it time to order one. I plan the check all that tomorrow, have to go to church tonight.

Sharky

Captshark.    Currently you out rank me since I retired.

But I'm not sensing we are getting through to you.........

Let's try it by the #'s.

1.   Find right side cover
      a.  It be on the same side as the rear brake pedal.
2.   Remove side cover and be careful to not break any tabs off.
3.   Look for a fat round rubber cover.
4.   Pull it off the wires carefully.
      a.  You pull any junction points out, plug em back in before ya forget where they go.     Match colors.
5.   You should find a red connector like in the picture, hopefully in better shape.
6.   It has a fuse in it.  
      a.   Is the fuse stuck?
            1.  Pull fuse and look it over along with the connector.
            2.  Test fuse on both ends, if it will come out.
            3.  Repair as needed.
      b.  Not stuck
            2.   proceed to # 7
7.   PERFORM THE FIRKING STARTER SWITCH WE BEEN SUGGESTING FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS.............

Now, if I missed where you already did this, I'm sorry, but to make an old fart happy, DO IT AGAIN, LOOK IT OVER THIS TIME

Your theory stinks on how a motorcycle circuit works.

Now, for the last damn time check and do the maintenance on the starter button.

Thank you.

I

[captsharky]

Sorry I don't recall saying I was  a wiz at circuts. But my bigest problem is good tools. You know the old saying. After looking at the wireing again, I went and did some more testing. My test light was showing 12 volts at the battery, but not having a multi meter I took it for good. Just to check I hooked up the battery charger, and it showed no voltage. But it did turn on the lights,  and when the starter button was pused it tried to engag the starter. Took the battery out of the bike and put it on the charger, and it would not take a charge, so I ordered one last night. Wallies world didn't not have any.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Sharky

It's just sharky now, that left over from when I used to run a dive charter boat.
I follow you, and have done just that, pulled out the relay, checked the fuse, and condition of the leads, and check all the other fuses. They all check out fine. With the key on, I have tested the leads to the relay, and no power there. A friend suggest to jump power from the battery to the light fuse and see if they come on. The battery shows good with the meter, and shows good to the ground on the engine. I am not sure why I would want to mess with the starter button, till I get power to the lights, if there is no power there, or to the light bar, which is relaied also there shouldn't be any power to the started button. If I get the lights back on, power running thru that circuit, and the starter button doesn't work then I will check it out. I am guessing here but if the key switch doesn't pass power thru, then nothing else will work, like lights and horn, light bar????? So I need to pull the plug on it and see if it's getting power. If not then I guess it time to order one. I plan the check all that tomorrow, have to go to church tonight.

Sharky

Captshark.    Currently you out rank me since I retired.

But I'm not sensing we are getting through to you.........

Let's try it by the #'s.

1.   Find right side cover
      a.  It be on the same side as the rear brake pedal.
2.   Remove side cover and be careful to not break any tabs off.
3.   Look for a fat round rubber cover.
4.   Pull it off the wires carefully.
      a.  You pull any junction points out, plug em back in before ya forget where they go.     Match colors.
5.   You should find a red connector like in the picture, hopefully in better shape.
6.   It has a fuse in it.  
      a.   Is the fuse stuck?
            1.  Pull fuse and look it over along with the connector.
            2.  Test fuse on both ends, if it will come out.
            3.  Repair as needed.
      b.  Not stuck
            2.   proceed to # 7
7.   PERFORM THE FIRKING STARTER SWITCH WE BEEN SUGGESTING FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS.............

Now, if I missed where you already did this, I'm sorry, but to make an old fart happy, DO IT AGAIN, LOOK IT OVER THIS TIME

Your theory stinks on how a motorcycle circuit works.

Now, for the last damn time check and do the maintenance on the starter button.

Thank you.

I