Glaserbeam
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« on: January 20, 2019, 05:59:04 PM » |
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« Last Edit: February 12, 2019, 09:35:29 AM by Glaserbeam »
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15209
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2019, 07:33:36 PM » |
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Maybe it's just me but anything out of HongKong.....never! Maybe certain LEDs if I can't find them ZI.
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Savago
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« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2019, 07:49:28 PM » |
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Brakes and tires: never go cheap on them. 
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2019, 03:27:45 AM » |
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OEM
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2019, 04:29:52 AM » |
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OEM

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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2019, 06:45:27 AM » |
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Less weight in the wheels means less "unsprung mass" which theoretically permits a better ride, i.e. smoother over bumps. That being said, the amount of steel that has been removed from those rotors doesn't give me a lot of confidence in their strength or durability.
Buying crucial safety equipment from an out-of-country (especially China) manufacturer with only e-bay distribution and no established reputation or accountability to your government/legal system seems foolish to me.
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Ken aka Oil Burner
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« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2019, 11:36:33 AM » |
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I would not use them, personally. The Valk is a heavy beast, comparatively speaking, and having a brake rotor separate or fracture during a potential panic stop doesn't sound beneficial. Saving cash is better done on non-safety items, IMO. The only "lightened" rotors I'd use are from Galfer, and they're over $300 each.
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SCain
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« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2019, 11:49:00 AM » |
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My discs are OK, but wondering if there's an advantage to saving a bit of weight up front.
Not sure why you need to shave off a few ounces? GL1800 disks should be a little lighter if you really want to buy new disks. OEM Honda are usually the best, and work the best with OEM pads. Not saying there aren't others out there to choose from.
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Steve 
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98valk
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« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2019, 12:13:37 PM » |
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Front OEM rotors = 3.25 lbs ea
Both are the same and fit valkyrie. Front VRF800 rotors = 2.75 lbs ea Front CBR600F4 rotors = 2.75 lbs ea
Front Gafler rotors = 2.75 lbs ea. I have a set of almost new for sale in classifieds. make offer
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« Last Edit: January 22, 2019, 05:44:43 AM by 98valk, (aka CA) »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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F6Dave
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« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2019, 12:16:27 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
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98valk
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« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2019, 12:40:44 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
don't confuse the lighter carrier and the disk surface itself. the weight reduction is in the carrier. also most never push them far enough to fade. the OEM rotors are fairly thick compared to other Honda rotors. The OEM GL1800 and some sport bikes rotors are thinner than OEM Valkyrie's. But of note the replacement thickness from start to finish is the same for the rotors I've mentioned, meaning the same MMs resulting in an actual thinner rotor for the sport bikes than the Valkyries. If that makes sense? The Galfers are same thickness as OEM. unsprung weight also gives better braking.
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« Last Edit: January 21, 2019, 01:43:57 PM by 98valk, (aka CA) »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #11 on: January 21, 2019, 01:53:21 PM » |
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Hmmm ... maybe 98Valk's Galfer discs or possibly a set of used GL1800 discs - they are thinner (4.0mm? 4.5mm?) and the carrier is slotted - would be the best combination of less weight and a quality disc.
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #12 on: January 21, 2019, 02:06:23 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
don't confuse the lighter carrier and the disk surface itself. the weight reduction is in the carrier. also most never push them far enough to fade. the OEM rotors are fairly thick compared to other Honda rotors. The OEM GL1800 and some sport bikes rotors are thinner than OEM Valkyrie's. But of note the replacement thickness from start to finish is the same for the rotors I've mentioned, meaning the same MMs resulting in an actual thinner rotor for the sport bikes than the Valkyries. If that makes sense? The Galfers are same thickness as OEM. unsprung weight also gives better braking. "unsprung weight also leads to better braking", that don't make no sense to me, 'splain. 
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97BLKVALK
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Posts: 637
VRCC#26021
Detroit Lakes, MN
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« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2019, 03:58:27 PM » |
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All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing.
1997 GL1500C - Black 1997 GL1500C - Purple 1997 GL1500C - Bumble Bee 1998 GL1500C - Blue and Cream
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WintrSol
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« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2019, 04:06:03 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
don't confuse the lighter carrier and the disk surface itself. the weight reduction is in the carrier. also most never push them far enough to fade. the OEM rotors are fairly thick compared to other Honda rotors. The OEM GL1800 and some sport bikes rotors are thinner than OEM Valkyrie's. But of note the replacement thickness from start to finish is the same for the rotors I've mentioned, meaning the same MMs resulting in an actual thinner rotor for the sport bikes than the Valkyries. If that makes sense? The Galfers are same thickness as OEM. unsprung weight also gives better braking. "unsprung weight also leads to better braking", that don't make no sense to me, 'splain.  If reducing the unsprung weight means reducing the weight of the rotating parts (wheel, tire, rotors), the brakes have to work less hard stopping the spin of that weight. Reducing the weight of non-rotating parts (calipers, forks, axle) will have no effect on braking.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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97BLKVALK
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Posts: 637
VRCC#26021
Detroit Lakes, MN
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« Reply #15 on: January 21, 2019, 04:17:03 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
don't confuse the lighter carrier and the disk surface itself. the weight reduction is in the carrier. also most never push them far enough to fade. the OEM rotors are fairly thick compared to other Honda rotors. The OEM GL1800 and some sport bikes rotors are thinner than OEM Valkyrie's. But of note the replacement thickness from start to finish is the same for the rotors I've mentioned, meaning the same MMs resulting in an actual thinner rotor for the sport bikes than the Valkyries. If that makes sense? The Galfers are same thickness as OEM. unsprung weight also gives better braking. "unsprung weight also leads to better braking", that don't make no sense to me, 'splain.  If reducing the unsprung weight means reducing the weight of the rotating parts (wheel, tire, rotors), the brakes have to work less hard stopping the spin of that weight. Reducing the weight of non-rotating parts (calipers, forks, axle) will have no effect on braking. Great explanation. Thanks!
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All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing.
1997 GL1500C - Black 1997 GL1500C - Purple 1997 GL1500C - Bumble Bee 1998 GL1500C - Blue and Cream
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2019, 06:14:33 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
don't confuse the lighter carrier and the disk surface itself. the weight reduction is in the carrier. also most never push them far enough to fade. the OEM rotors are fairly thick compared to other Honda rotors. The OEM GL1800 and some sport bikes rotors are thinner than OEM Valkyrie's. But of note the replacement thickness from start to finish is the same for the rotors I've mentioned, meaning the same MMs resulting in an actual thinner rotor for the sport bikes than the Valkyries. If that makes sense? The Galfers are same thickness as OEM. unsprung weight also gives better braking. "unsprung weight also leads to better braking", that don't make no sense to me, 'splain.  If reducing the unsprung weight means reducing the weight of the rotating parts (wheel, tire, rotors), the brakes have to work less hard stopping the spin of that weight. Reducing the weight of non-rotating parts (calipers, forks, axle) will have no effect on braking. We're talking about two separate forces here that have to be arrested by the brake to slow/stop the bike. One is the movement of the bike through space (mph). The other is the rotation of the wheel assembly about it's axel (rpm). It takes a certain amount of energy to stop the movement whether the rotating energy is above the springs or even if there are no springs at all. Reducing weight, either rotating or not will reduce the energy needed to slow/stop the bike. Granted, reducing a pound of rotating weight will have a greater impact than a pound of non- rotating weight. Whether the weight is sprung or not sprung has no bearing. 
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sandy
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« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2019, 07:17:10 PM » |
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I had GL1800 wing rotors on my former Valk. They fit and worked very well. Also much lighter.
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WintrSol
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« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2019, 08:08:16 PM » |
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All other things being equal, a lighter rotor will heat up faster, and fade faster. Doesn't sound like a good tradeoff on such a heavy bike. I'd use Honda or a respected after market company. I installed a set of EBC rotors on my Tourer and they have been very good.
don't confuse the lighter carrier and the disk surface itself. the weight reduction is in the carrier. also most never push them far enough to fade. the OEM rotors are fairly thick compared to other Honda rotors. The OEM GL1800 and some sport bikes rotors are thinner than OEM Valkyrie's. But of note the replacement thickness from start to finish is the same for the rotors I've mentioned, meaning the same MMs resulting in an actual thinner rotor for the sport bikes than the Valkyries. If that makes sense? The Galfers are same thickness as OEM. unsprung weight also gives better braking. "unsprung weight also leads to better braking", that don't make no sense to me, 'splain.  If reducing the unsprung weight means reducing the weight of the rotating parts (wheel, tire, rotors), the brakes have to work less hard stopping the spin of that weight. Reducing the weight of non-rotating parts (calipers, forks, axle) will have no effect on braking. We're talking about two separate forces here that have to be arrested by the brake to slow/stop the bike. One is the movement of the bike through space (mph). The other is the rotation of the wheel assembly about it's axel (rpm). It takes a certain amount of energy to stop the movement whether the rotating energy is above the springs or even if there are no springs at all. Reducing weight, either rotating or not will reduce the energy needed to slow/stop the bike. Granted, reducing a pound of rotating weight will have a greater impact than a pound of non- rotating weight. Whether the weight is sprung or not sprung has no bearing.  When you consider the overall weight of the bike, a pound or two is not likely to create a measurable effect in braking; then, again, a pound of rotating weight may be just as significant to overall brake performance.  The Valk isn't exactly a sprinter.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2019, 10:07:04 PM » |
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I had GL1800 wing rotors on my former Valk. They fit and worked very well. Also much lighter.
Sandy, did you notice any quickening of the steering with the Wing rotors?
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sandy
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« Reply #20 on: January 22, 2019, 03:53:42 AM » |
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I had GL1800 wing rotors on my former Valk. They fit and worked very well. Also much lighter.
Sandy, did you notice any quickening of the steering with the Wing rotors? No; No changes in the front end at all.
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98valk
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« Reply #21 on: January 22, 2019, 04:29:32 AM » |
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When you put your bike on a weight-reduction plan, it is important that you remember the 6-to-1 rule. It is said that a 1-pound reduction in unsprung weight is equal to a 6-pound reduction in sprung weight. https://motocrossactionmag.com/dealing-with-the-hidden-evils-of-unsprung-weight/
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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98valk
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« Reply #22 on: January 22, 2019, 04:31:57 AM » |
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I had GL1800 wing rotors on my former Valk. They fit and worked very well. Also much lighter.
Sandy, did you notice any quickening of the steering with the Wing rotors? to quicken steering, the Trail number has to be reduced.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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WintrSol
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« Reply #23 on: January 22, 2019, 07:01:10 AM » |
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I had GL1800 wing rotors on my former Valk. They fit and worked very well. Also much lighter.
Sandy, did you notice any quickening of the steering with the Wing rotors? to quicken steering, the Trail number has to be reduced. Very true. I can vary my trail easily, because the PO mounted the air suspension from a Wing. All I need do is change the pressure in the shock to raise or lower the rear, and the trail changes with it. To ride the Dragon, I pump it up; for most easy riding, I put it back to approximate stock height.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #24 on: January 28, 2019, 06:46:18 AM » |
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I ordered a set of used low-mileage 2006 GL1800 front discs for my bike (eBay). Thanks to all the great advice here. Next year I'll want to change the rear disc when I replace the rear tire - will the GL1800 rear disc fit and is it lighter, or are there better options?
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98valk
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« Reply #25 on: January 28, 2019, 07:51:46 AM » |
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I ordered a set of used low-mileage 2006 GL1800 front discs for my bike (eBay). Thanks to all the great advice here. Next year I'll want to change the rear disc when I replace the rear tire - will the GL1800 rear disc fit and is it lighter, or are there better options?
GL1500 rear rotor fits. I tend to remember the ST1100 uses same '98 valkyrie 4 lbs 4oz '03 valkyrie 6 lbs I have this one installed GW GL1500 after market 3 lbs https://www.ebay.com/p/BikeMaster-1208-Brake-Rotor/182495785?iid=201494199768&_trksid=p2047675.m4097.l9054
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #26 on: January 28, 2019, 12:24:18 PM » |
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CA, will I have to use different bolts for my '02 or does that disc fit the early and late models Valks equally with no modifications?
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98valk
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« Reply #27 on: January 28, 2019, 02:25:58 PM » |
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CA, will I have to use different bolts for my '02 or does that disc fit the early and late models Valks equally with no modifications?
I put that disc on an '03 trike take off wheel. I'll have to check which bolts I used, the '98s or '03s. It installed on my '98 with zero problem. had a few minutes and went out to the shop to check. I used the non-recessed bolts. see this thread, much info. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86050.0.html
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« Last Edit: January 28, 2019, 02:55:45 PM by 98valk, (aka CA) »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2019, 09:27:38 AM » |
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I installed the GL1800 front rotors, and while I had the wheel off (easier to remove/install than I expected, thanks to the great procedures posted on this Board!), painted the rough-finished "cutouts" in the wheel gloss black (took longer to mask & paint than to swap rotors). Before:  After: 
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2019, 09:47:37 AM » |
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That looks really good 
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #30 on: February 12, 2019, 09:48:44 AM » |
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Looks good  I’ve thought doing that with a green to match my I/S.
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Bambam650
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« Reply #31 on: February 12, 2019, 10:43:52 AM » |
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I installed the GL1800 front rotors, and while I had the wheel off (easier to remove/install than I expected, thanks to the great procedures posted on this Board!), painted the rough-finished "cutouts" in the wheel gloss black (took longer to mask & paint than to swap rotors). Your wheels look great. I did the same thing to both of my wheels several years ago after giving them a good polishing. I think it really makes the shiny surfaces pop. Masking was a pain, but worth it. I cut strips of blue masking tape about 1/8" wide (like pin stripes) to go around the edges first. It was much easier to form the masking tape that way. I used VHT satin black epoxy spray paint. I think I used an etching primer first, but not certain. The paint has held up great with no flaking. Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I thought some folks reading this may want to know.
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1997 Standard (Black) original owner, bought new in August 1996
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #32 on: February 12, 2019, 10:49:07 AM » |
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Next I'm going to paint the cutouts in the rear wheel ... without removing the wheel ... not sure how well I can mask it and maneuver the can of spray paint for that 
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Bambam650
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« Reply #33 on: February 12, 2019, 10:55:01 AM » |
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I think that would be very difficult to do and would strongly recommend removing the wheel. You can also polish the wheel and perform the final drive service while you're at it. It's not that hard. You'll get much better results and will be glad you did.
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1997 Standard (Black) original owner, bought new in August 1996
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98valk
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« Reply #34 on: February 12, 2019, 10:58:01 AM » |
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Next I'm going to paint the cutouts in the rear wheel ... without removing the wheel ... not sure how well I can mask it and maneuver the can of spray paint for that  why spray when u can brush?
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #35 on: February 12, 2019, 11:26:15 AM » |
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I'll try spraying the paint into a tray and brushing it on.
Not as confident in removing the rear wheel as in removing the front ... seems way more complicated.
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98valk
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« Reply #36 on: February 12, 2019, 12:05:49 PM » |
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I'll try spraying the paint into a tray and brushing it on.
Not as confident in removing the rear wheel as in removing the front ... seems way more complicated.
what paint type are u using? a small can of Rust-Oleum will work.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Glaserbeam
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« Reply #37 on: February 12, 2019, 12:38:53 PM » |
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Automotive-grade DupliColor black and DupliColor lacquer clear-coat.
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Bambam650
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« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2019, 01:05:57 PM » |
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I'll try spraying the paint into a tray and brushing it on. That should work. I do that quite often for touching up various parts. I've also used the small cans of Rustoleum (gloss black) to brush paint car brake calipers and it goes on very nice with minimal brush marks and provides a very durable finish.
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1997 Standard (Black) original owner, bought new in August 1996
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #39 on: February 12, 2019, 02:26:31 PM » |
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I'll try spraying the paint into a tray and brushing it on.
Not as confident in removing the rear wheel as in removing the front ... seems way more complicated.
Who does your rear end maintainence ? (It's not that hard)
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