Broke my kickstand spring stud

[Tfrank59]

Yeah and it almost left me stranded. Always bring a bungee cord with you if that's not your current MO. But that stupid little stud that the spring hooks on underneath snapped and then the kickstand spring had no tension, it's 9:30 at night and 37 degrees and I got to get home. Anyways now got to drill out the little piece of broken stud that's up inside the kickstand bracket and I guess I'll make my own stud out of a piece of 4140.

[Jess from VA]

What I've always wondered about, if you lose your stud/spring and the kickstand falls down from gravity, how are you supposed to get off to fix it (tie it up) without leaning the bike on a tree... or something?

If you set it on the stand, you can't very well tie it up.

I always have a bungee in the bags, but I can't get it out of the bag and tie my stand up from the seat, and getting off and balancing the bike with one hand while trying to work with the other doesn't sound any better.

I try to never lay it down on the guards to work on it.

If the cord is long enough, I guess you could set it on the stand, get off and get your cord out and hook one end to the stand, get back on with the other end in your hand, then pull the stand up (assuming it says hooked to the stand) and run the cord over the seat to something on the other side. 

I've read a number of stories about the stud and spring failing, but not how it was fixed on the road (other than tying it up, somehow).   

[Hook#3287]

You don't normally have to drill the broken stud out.

It's been a while, but I believe there's enough stud sticking out of the top to remove it.

I used a long #8bolt as a temp post, because I was able to find the spring.

I have the spring wired to the bike now incase it happens again.

Luckily, I haven't had to test the wire retention system yet.

[Bone]

I keep a short bungee cord coiled up on the left front bottom of the bag, I can get it sitting on the seat. I never use it for anything so I know
it will be there if needed.

Lost a spring on a 85 GW Aspencade. Pulled into a empty strip mall on a Sunday morning. Looking around the lot for an idea and noticed
the cement 4 foot long tire stops. They were almost the same height of the bottom of my front forks. I pulled up and was able to park
next to one and balance the bike on the bottom of the left fork. I had a bungee but need to search my bags and trunk to find where it was.

[Valker]

You can get off the bike because the stand still works. Then you hook the bungee or even a string which you can use to pull the stand up then tie it off. The bolt is easily changed.

[RonW]

Agreed, you put the kickstand down and leave the bike resting on the kickstand. Even without the spring, the kickstand won't move on you when it's in the down position supporting the weight of the bike. The weight of the bike locks the kickstand in position, unless for some oddball reason you decided to park the bike facing downhill. With bike resting firmly on the kickstand, rider off the bike, it's easy to tie the bungee, etc. around the kickstand.

But then the next step is deciding how to route the upper end of the bungee. The kickstand in the up position is under the ledge of the bike, so it's not a straight pull. I went to the outside and around the muffler. I only had 7 miles to ride. If it was much further I'd insulate the bungee at the spot it contacts the muffler with cloth or cardboard so the heat don't end up melting the bungee. That section of the muffler is actually a chrome heat shield but it does warm up a bit (pic below). If you instead route the bungee internally, there's the edge of the heat shield to be cautious of, and also the swing of the swingarm. It'll be worth your while to go over this step in advance.

After you saddle up, you can reach down and grab the un-tied end of the bungee laying on the ground, or if you used a long bungee, temporarily hook the bungee higher up to something within easier reach. While keeping the bike upright, pull the kickstand all the way up with the bungee. Then hook the bungee to the saddlebags guardrails, or passenger pegs, etc. A bungee is not the most ideal thing to use since it's elastic allowing the kickstand to bounce up and down as you ride.

As a side note, you don't have to be seated to tie off the upper end of the bungee. You can tie off the bungee while you're off the bike, holding the bike upright with your body. I had cargo on the passenger seat and I wouldn't have been able to swing my leg over the cargo with the kickstand up and still manage to keep the bike upright. I sat on the bike to tie off.

Also, the reason that I discovered the spring bolt had fallen off, was I heard a metallic tick sound when I kicked the side stand up. I put the kickstand down and inspected the area under the bike where the sound came from only to find the spring bolt on the asphalt. However, I was hearing the metallic tick sound for a few days already. A tell tale sound so to speak. The spring bolt didn't break off all of a sudden, well, without a warning. The metallic tick sound is identical to the sound the muffler or muffler's heat shield makes when the muffler cools down, if that makes sense.

[Tfrank59]

You can get off the bike because the stand still works. Then you hook the bungee or even a string which you can use to pull the stand up then tie it off. The bolt is easily changed.

This is what I did with the bungee cord. But the stud does have to be drilled out because it broke off up inside the tapped hole. I doubt it will just back out for me and I don't have a left-handed drill bit. I'll let you know how it goes

[The emperor has no clothes]

You can get off the bike because the stand still works. Then you hook the bungee or even a string which you can use to pull the stand up then tie it off. The bolt is easily changed.

This is what I did with the bungee cord. But the stud does have to be drilled out because it broke off up inside the tapped hole. I doubt it will just back out for me and I don't have a left-handed drill bit. I'll let you know how it goes

Reread Hook's post. There should be enough to get it out the back side.

[Tfrank59]

Well I drilled out the stud it was stuck in there very tight and I didn't try to approach from the other side. I tapped it for an inch size bolt which I had and reinstalled with Loctite and a lock nut. All good now happy ending.   I just hope the side stand pivot bolt doesn't break now. I think I read on somebody's post that they carry a spare with them just in case but that would be a very difficult repair to do roadside. Maybe it's time for some preventive maintenance and just replace the thing, after 21 years

[Gryphon Rider]

I replaced mine at a campground with a spare I carried with me after reading about the issue of it breaking.  I laid the bike down on the crash guards on the right side, which made it all very accessible.  If I were needing to temporarily tie up the sidestand with a bungee cord or similar, I would just lean the bike to the right, with the crash guards on a curb or other similar solid support, making it easier to lift the bike upright while seated on it.

IIRC, unscrewing the nut on the back (top) of that bolt (#19, below) will unscrew the broken remains of the bolt out of the hole, so no deed for drilling.

I think this is RonW's picture, as I took it from his posting from January 24.

[Tfrank59]

good stuff. I wanted to put a slightly larger stronger stud in there than the OEM one.  Wasn't a big deal to drill and tap, as my little drill motor fit under the bike just right to get 'er done.  But as far as the pivot bolt, seems like it's got to be OEM in order to fit and function correctly, so I'll probably order one.

Update: just ordered the pivot bolt.

[RonW]

Just asking but how much larger did you go with the larger bolt? At least by the oem graphic, it seems that the hole for the spring bolt is near the kickstand hole, and a corresponding larger nut might interfere with the kickstand knuckle. At least by the graphic. I'm also thinkin that factory stepped down the shaft on the spring bolt so it wouldn't weaken the bracket with two holes next to each other on that section of the kickstand bracket. *A larger diameter spring bolt would be a good solution though.

[..]

So just 4 & 5 on this schematic?

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cb672f870023420a4184f/side-stand

[RonW]

the spring bolt is on the *Frame Page.* Item #11.

[..]

Just ordered from here

http://www.2wheelpros.com/

Cheapest price and shipping combined that I could find.

[RonW]

IIRC, unscrewing the nut on the back (top) of that bolt (#19, below) will unscrew the broken remains of the bolt out of the hole, so no deed for drilling.

Gryphon Rider, correct me if I'm mis-reading, but what you (and Valker) are stating is that there is enough stick-tion on Nut 19 to the stud, that turning Nut 19 counter-clockwise will take the stud out? That Nut 19 won't come off the stud like a typical nut and bolt leaving the stud still sticking out of the bracket. Yea, I should try it myself. My parts haven't arrived in the mail yet. If this is possible, it's worthwhile carrying along a spare spring bolt and wrench to do a road repair. Beats the bungee option. I'm planning to dab anti-seize to the threads without getting any anti-seize on the top part of the thread where Nut 19 screws on. Might even put red locktite on Nut 19 so Nut 19 bonds to the stud even more.

[Tfrank59]

Just asking but how much larger did you go with the larger bolt? At least by the oem graphic, it seems that the hole for the spring bolt is near the kickstand hole, and a corresponding larger nut might interfere with the kickstand knuckle. At least by the graphic. I'm also thinkin that factory stepped down the shaft on the spring bolt so it wouldn't weaken the bracket with two holes next to each other on that section of the kickstand bracket. *A larger diameter spring bolt would be a good solution though.

 I went with 1/4-20. The thread that was in the bracket for the stud was 6 mm. It worked out fine. I used a lock nut and a second nut to form what was the groove in the stud to capture the spring hook. It is much stronger than OEM. The only issue is when I drilled out the broken stud, the nut that was holding the little hose clamp on the other side popped off of course so I gotta zip tie the little drain hose or something. I would also note that you're not going to get to the other side of the bracket without either removing the whole bracket or the exhaust, neither of which is desirable for this little job.

[Gryphon Rider]

IIRC, unscrewing the nut on the back (top) of that bolt (#19, below) will unscrew the broken remains of the bolt out of the hole, so no deed for drilling.

Gryphon Rider, correct me if I'm mis-reading, but what you (and Valker) are stating is that there is enough stick-tion on Nut 19 to the stud, that turning Nut 19 counter-clockwise will take the stud out? That Nut 19 won't come off the stud like a typical nut and bolt leaving the stud still sticking out of the bracket. Yea, I should try it myself. My parts haven't arrived in the mail yet. If this is possible, it's worthwhile carrying along a spare spring bolt and wrench to do a road repair. Beats the bungee option. I'm planning to dab anti-seize to the threads without getting any anti-seize on the top part of the thread where Nut 19 screws on. Might even put red locktite on Nut 19 so Nut 19 bonds to the stud even more.

When I had to deal with it was many years ago, so I don't remember the details.  What I do remember is looking at the broken part in the hole and thinking I was going to have to drill it out, but that when I took the nut off, either the broken part came out with the nut, or I was able to screw it out with my fingers after removing the nut.  The nut might have a nylon locking element within it which would grip the broken part.  Rusted threads weren't an issue at the time, but might be after all these years.

[Ricky-D]

Locktite on the spring stud. 

***

[RonW]

*Just no locktite whatsoever on the end of the thread that Nut 19 screws on to the spring bolt. You want Nut 19 to bond to that part of the spring bolt so the frozen nut essentially acts as a head of a bolt, in case you ever need to extract a broken spring bolt. Where, usually, a frozen nut is a hassle. In this particular situation, a frozen nut works to your advantage. Yes, Ricky-D, for the record, it was you that previously stated unequivocally so on that you people are broking the spring stud with your lift jack, verily verily. Take a bow if you like. Good observation though.

[RonW]

When I had to deal with it was many years ago, so I don't remember the details.  What I do remember is looking at the broken part in the hole and thinking I was going to have to drill it out, but that when I took the nut off, either the broken part came out with the nut, or I was able to screw it out with my fingers after removing the nut.  The nut might have a nylon locking element within it which would grip the broken part.  Rusted threads weren't an issue at the time, but might be after all these years.

Can't wait to get this done, and have a rideable bike.

[RonW]

I was scannning the internet for spring bolts, and stumbled on this welded version. I think the bracket is for a Goldwing asides the chrome, but not sure whether the weld is factory oem.

[Avanti]

That looks like the GL 1800 mount.