Engine missing at 2K-3K RPM advice?

[Ice]

Hey guys need your assistance, I am stumped.  Did the Redeye desmog on my Valk not too long ago and after we tried to sync the carbs. We had issues synchronizing the carbs due to a mistake  (using a digisync) as we had a mix up as to the #3 carb being the nonadjustable one (addressed in a previous post http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,105384.0.html).
Now the issue is that the bike is missing between 2000-3000 RPM range on the right side, makes a light popping noise. Runs fine at idle. As I said, we had issues trying to sync the carbs due to mistakenly thinking the #3 carb was adjustable and turned the adjustment screw from one end of the spectrum to the other in an attempt for it to match the others.
First thing prior to noticing the miss was that the choke will not actually choke the bike, yes the cable is moving freely and the choke slides are moving also, there is just no difference as to when she is cold that the choke will actually raise the RPM’s, it will however stall the bike after she is warm and you activate the choke. This is actually how I found the miss, I was using the throttle to raise the RPM’s until she would run on her own and I heard it.
One of the main issues I had found was that the drain tube from the air cleaner box was off at the T junction with the transmission breather, hoping that would fix the problem I reconnected it and still missing.
As I continued to try to find the problem, I checked all the vacuum plugs, all good, checked to ensure no exhaust leak, good, and checked everything that I could think of. So in a last ditch effort to find the problem I locked the throttle (after warming her up) to around 2200-2500 RPM’s and started pulling plug wires on the right side, as I got to the #3 and unplugged it the missing stopped, soon as I plugged it back it started missing again.
Now my question is, even though the #3 carb is nonadjustable, is it possible that we somehow got the adjustment out of whack anyhow?
Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.

[bill-jr]

How the sprk plug look on #3 ?
I cant see any way as to knock it out of sync
There is no screw to adjust it . . .
Not sure what you adjusted from one end to the other ? ?
I’d try and resync. . . .
What anout the little deal you put on underneath the engine when you desmoged to block off? ?

[Ice]

Bill, just replace the plugs, and all the desmog parts are tight.

[TTG53#1717]

I had symptoms kinda like this and it turned out one of the slide springs had kinked and wasn’t letting the slide return fully. It would idle fine but stumble from 1800 up through 2600 and then smooth right out. I thought it was plugged jets from the 5 months I couldn’t ride due to knee surgery. Then when my fuel rail o-rings failed, I did an in depth look at everything and found the kinked spring. I straightened it out and problem solved. Then I bought a new Interstate spring set.

[Chrisj CMA]

ill bet the pistons are not connected to the slide on the right side for the individual enrichers the slide can move without activating the enrighers it they are not hooked up

[Ricky-D]

Okay, so you say when you pull the plug wire the engine smooths out and when you plug the wire back up to the spark plug it starts popping.

Probably this question needs to be asked.

Is the bike being tested standing straight upright or is it being tested while on the side stand.

My feeling about this is that you have either, a clogged idle jet, or a clogged low speed gallery, or both.

Either that or you have junk (crud), or water in the float bowl.

Of course, if you are testing with the bike on the side stand, that certainly could be skewing the testing conclusions.

***

[Bigwolf]

Be aware that when you pull the number 3 plug wire, both number 3 and number 4 plugs quit firing.

[rug_burn]

    I know when I had to fix my gunked-up carbs, that I found a thin glaze of gum on those needles that are attached to the diaphragms.    They are accessible under those round chrome covers seen on each carb, and are therefore accessible without pulling the carbs out, IIRC.   I did have to pull the carb carrier out, multiple times to get to the idle jets and fuel and vapor rail o-rings, however.
    I just used my fingernail and scraped off the glazed-on gum layer on the needles, and then used a wire to attempt to clean out the jet, too.   
    I think in my case I need to go back and do that a little better, one more time, since when I listen real closely, there seems to be a little 'raggedness' or missing only on deceleration, nearly imperceptible, however.   It doesn't miss at all during acceleration.
    It's funny how you listen real closely and critically and notice stuff which may have been there all along, once you fix something.  You never paid attention before, so you're never sure if it was there to begin with.
    I've read federal specs for gasoline (being a mechanical engineer)  and there's an allowable limit for the amount of 'gum' in gasoline specified.  Must be a natural component of gasoline that's hard for the refineries to get out of the gasoline.   Sure causes us a lot of headaches.

[john_berry]

Be aware that when you pull the number 3 plug wire, both number 3 and number 4 plugs quit firing.

How, Can I get more details about this

[Ricky-D]

Be aware that when you pull the number 3 plug wire, both number 3 and number 4 plugs quit firing.

How, Can I get more details about this

No need to, it is not correct.

***

[nogrey]

I think you need to find a new mechanic! 

[gordonv]

Be aware that when you pull the number 3 plug wire, both number 3 and number 4 plugs quit firing.

If you pull your coil wire, you'll kill two plugs. Not the plug wire.