removing alternaor

[Rosie]

just spent a couple hours removing frozen alternator bolts and getting alt. half way out. I decided to take a little break and search how other people have done it. Now back out to shop to try again. Wish me luck.

[Earl43P]

Good luck. 

I'll live vicariously through your next posts - I have the same job on my agenda.
I'll be cleaning mine and replacing the brushes, at >82,000 miles I figure it's due.
I doubt my alternator has ever been off, it had 22,000 miles when I bought it.

It's been on the jack for well over a month, going back together slowly.
A week delay waiting on a driveshaft oil seal, then an airshock fitting leak, all keeping me from taking it to WV this weekend (TOMORROW!!).

I guess all that Kuryakin transmission cover has to come off, soak the bolts in "knock-her-loose", maybe throw some engine-running heat cycles at it so I don't snap a bolt.

Let us know what worked for you.

[Chrisj CMA]

Remove side covers. Unbolt center cover. Lift center cover up until it pops out of it's grommet. Now you have the room you need.

[Jess from VA]

This may also work.  But it's kind of hard on the bike.

[Rosie]

Good information Chris, also I took main battery feed wire off when I had it half out and could get at it easily. The rubber dampers on the coupler are kinda loose and fell out. Do these generally get replaced with alt.? Alt. worked fine just figured with 75k on it I would get bolts freed up then decided might as well put brushes in it. So o-ring,brushes,coupler dampers,? anything else?  Earl if you have time put some penetrating oil on the 3 alt.bolts and get them loose.                                                     

[Rosie]

Funny you should post dynamite Jess cause that thought crossed my mind!!

[Jess from VA]

Except, after the bike was completely blowed-up, and you went and found the frame, the alternator would probably still be solidly in there.   

[hubcapsc]

Paying real close attention to how it finally comes out, that's how it has to
go back in... when I took one out, I didn't pay attention, so it was the
same hunt-and-peck figuring out how to get it back in.

The little rubber dampers are a pain when putting it back in... new dampers
are tight and would stay in better...

-Mike

[Relax]

Paying real close attention to how it finally comes out, that's how it has to
go back in... when I took one out, I didn't pay attention, so it was the
same hunt-and-peck figuring out how to get it back in.

The little rubber dampers are a pain when putting it back in... new dampers
are tight and would stay in better...

-Mike

Zen...and at of motorcycle maintenace...
Know the function of every bolt, nut and part you take apart, know how it works and know why it i there..Learn this when you take things apart, if you didn't  know it before.
Then assembling is, at least,  some more easy

[Lyle Laun]

Chris has it right regarding lifting the center cover up out of its grommet.
I followed John Schmidt’s advice and put a bit of rtv sealant on the rubber pillow blocks to hold them in place before I slid the alternator back in.

Regards
Lyle

[mrgeoff]

Just remember that when you do get it out...Clean the bolts up a little and use some anti-seize on those mounting bolts...will be worth it...!!!

[3W-lonerider]

There is no way I'd  use rtv to hold those dampners in. Those dampners and the front of the alternator runs in oil. That rtv comes loose and makes it to the oil pump clogging the screen. You can say goodbye to an engine. If anything. Use a thin film of grease. Besides. I was told long ago if those dampners are loose enough to fall out then they are loose enough to let the alternator get whipped. Which will take a toll on it. What i mean by whipping. Its the same affect your rear wheel goes threw when those dampners are worn.

[The emperor has no clothes]

There is no way I'd  use rtv to hold those dampners in. Those dampners and the front of the alternator runs in oil. That rtv comes loose and makes it to the oil pump clogging the screen. You can say goodbye to an engine. If anything. Use a thin film of grease. Besides. I was told long ago if those dampners are loose enough to fall out then they are loose enough to let the alternator get whipped. Which will take a toll on it. What i mean by whipping. Its the same affect your rear wheel goes threw when those dampners are worn.

Agreed, just a little dab of grease will hold them in place.

[gordonv]

There is no way I'd  use rtv to hold those dampners in. Those dampners and the front of the alternator runs in oil. That rtv comes loose and makes it to the oil pump clogging the screen. You can say goodbye to an engine. If anything. Use a thin film of grease. Besides. I was told long ago if those dampners are loose enough to fall out then they are loose enough to let the alternator get whipped. Which will take a toll on it. What i mean by whipping. Its the same affect your rear wheel goes threw when those dampners are worn.

Agreed, just a little dab of grease will hold them in place.

Isn't Vaseline the "grease" of choice for when building an engine? Dissolves in the oil.

[The emperor has no clothes]

There is no way I'd  use rtv to hold those dampners in. Those dampners and the front of the alternator runs in oil. That rtv comes loose and makes it to the oil pump clogging the screen. You can say goodbye to an engine. If anything. Use a thin film of grease. Besides. I was told long ago if those dampners are loose enough to fall out then they are loose enough to let the alternator get whipped. Which will take a toll on it. What i mean by whipping. Its the same affect your rear wheel goes threw when those dampners are worn.

Agreed, just a little dab of grease will hold them in place.

Isn't Vaseline the "grease" of choice for when building an engine? Dissolves in the oil.

I just used a little of the grease I had laying around for the rear end service. It takes such a small dab, I don't think it would be an issue.

[MarkT]

I found turning the engine so the dampners are in "X" position and the alt went right in with no problem and no grease.

[Rosie]

Good advice, thank you to all. Ordered parts so as soon as they come in I will attempt to put it back together. Problem is I was so disgusted with it never thinking it would come out and all of a sudden there it was OUT and not exactly sure of position. Thank everyone for the help. 

[MarkT]

Check my post here on positioning - http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,105724.msg1062079.html#msg1062079

[Bighead]

First time I had to remove an alternator on the phat gurl I was on the road and I got it out in a matter of minutes. Put the new one in and had to temove it two more times but I guess I am lucky as I had to use no TNT take your time it is not difficult if you are patient.  

Removed and put in three times in an hour or less. But then again I never had trouble putting the boot over the u joint either.  I have heard horror stories about this but 5 minutes and it was done. Lucky I guess. 

[mrtlc]

Everything comes apart and goes together better with a hammer like that!!!

[Jess from VA]

Bighead, you should have been a delivery nurse.   

(except there's no putting them back in)

[Bighead]

Everything comes apart and goes together better with a hammer like that!!!

That hammer was only used to knock the new alternator apart for the reclocking thank you very much
BTW a big thanks to Charlie Mac for the use of said hammer and shop

[Oss]

Be careful not to break the little pieces that hold the side cover

 

But all the advice above is accurate

I ordered the set of rubber dampers and an O ring to put in my spare alternator that now is in the bike putting out about 14.6 volts The old ones at 110000 were shot

[Paladin528]

Remove the three bolts and slide the Alternator back as far as you can.
Rotate the Alternator top away from you (clockwise looking from rear.
at the same time gently pull the front of the alternator towards you.
You will hit a sweet spot where the front will come out of its hole and you can then pull it out to a position to undo the wires.

I have had mine out several times and can get it out in 5 minutes
Getting it back in take a little longer because that sweet spot is harder to find.

One day I will post a video because people seem to have alot of trouble with it.

you do not need to remove the centre cover.

[Rosie]

Got the brushes in, bearings were smooth as silk with 75k on them. Brushes about one third gone. Putting it back in not to bad. Things that make it easier: Loosen center cover and slip raise. New dampers with a dab of grease on back side to hold in place. Leave main battery wire off till installed, you can install later with 1/4 socket set,swivel, and long extension. Carefully line up fins with slots in dampers. I also moved some of the drool, vent hoses out of the way.