Looking for recommendations on a Lift / Jack for the Valkyrie

[frosty]

This adapter is the only one that will work . Its 20" long which will sit on all the m/c jacks. Is sturdy enough to handle the weight of a loaded Valk and more. Enables you to move the jack on the adapter to balance your bike being the I/S & Tourer are heavier at the rear than the Std. Thats why some with the Kickstand adapter  some were having problems with the frt. or rear not balancing. The one arm kickstand adapters are only 12" wide. And one arm of that adapter sits on the motor. No other place to position the jack.   Sorry but I think we have been beating a dead horse with this title. This is the one that works.  I have tried them all. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170415165536&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT

[sheets]

"Are you sure about those numbers ?? .... they don't quite add up".

Sent you an email with pix.  Let me know. . .

[Sodbuster]

"Are you sure about those numbers ?? .... they don't quite add up".

Sent you an email with pix.  Let me know. . .

Sheets - Saw your pics, now it makes sense.  Thanks

[Sodbuster]

This adapter is the only one that will work . Its 20" long which will sit on all the m/c jacks. Is sturdy enough to handle the weight of a loaded Valk and more. Enables you to move the jack on the adapter to balance your bike being the I/S & Tourer are heavier at the rear than the Std. Thats why some with the Kickstand adapter  some were having problems with the frt. or rear not balancing. The one arm kickstand adapters are only 12" wide. And one arm of that adapter sits on the motor. No other place to position the jack.   Sorry but I think we have been beating a dead horse with this title.

Frosty - Don't mean to question your integrity on this but how is that one any more sturdy than this adaptor ....
ADAPTOR1
Looks like they're made by the same person
ADAPTOR2

[daytona]

Look!! it will lift 1.5 tons! and they sell tools!....This heavy-duty lift is capable of lifting your bike or ATV up to 1 1/2 tons -- that's 1,500 pounds!

 Man, I can't help it.  One ton = 2000 pounds;  1 1/2 tons = 3000 pounds.  Any jack with a 1500 pound rating will lift 3/4 ton.

!!!!!  Look!! it will lift 1.5 tons! "and they sell tools!" 

[frosty]

Frosty - Don't mean to question your integrity on this but how is that one any more sturdy than this adaptor ....
ADAPTOR1
Looks like they're made by the same person
ADAPTOR2
The 29,95 is a betterbuilt adapter. Not the light ga. material as adapter 1.   BUT-
Your pic.  is what I call the kickstand adapter. Can position your jack in Only one place where the adapter is. Not being able to balance the I/s being heavier at the rear to the Std. etc.
With the post I have above with the link is the red adapter I was saying is the most stable because you can position your jack along adapter to compensate for the weight dif. of ea. Valk to balance it. At least that is what I have experienced. 

[hubcapsc]

the red adapter I was saying is the most stable because you can position your jack along adapter to compensate for the weight dif. of ea. Valk to balance it.

When I had the red adapter, I definitely positioned the bike strategically over the lift to bias the
balance one way or the other... that ability was a handy "feature", on purpose or not...

One of the $29 bolt-it-on-leave-it-on adapters arrived at my house the other day, I'll install it next
time I have to lift the bike...

-Mike

[Sodbuster]

BUT-Your pic.  is what I call the kickstand adapter. Can position your jack in Only one place where the adapter is. Not being able to balance the I/s being heavier at the rear to the Std. etc.
With the post I have above with the link is the red adapter I was saying is the most stable because you can position your jack along adapter to compensate for the weight dif. of ea. Valk to balance it. At least that is what I have experienced.

Can't a person just insert a piece of plywood or aluminum plate between adaptor/engine and the lift and do the same thing as that big red adaptor or am I missing something here  ???

[cowboy]

  Hey Sodbuster
  The red  adapter is like the one I built.  The difference that I saw between the two is that were in your post is that you are lifting on the 2 long rails which are up against the bottom of your engine.  I painted mine with silver paint and it is not as "ugly" looking as the red color you don't even see it.  The 2" I talked in my last post are on the end where the two legs go up to the stand you can position the bike farther back. It does'nt weigh that much and is about the lowest part on your bike so the weight isn't that serious. I'll see if I can find my plans for the lengths of tubing etc.
Cowboy 

[Sodbuster]

I'm beginning to think we're not on the same page.  All I have is the permanent adaptor (the $29.95 one) that looks like picture below and the same as ADAPTOR1


Sounds like some people are putting the "big red one" on (ADAPTOR2
) and leaving it on and it makes sense that you would have more freedom to move the lift/jack around (although I think it should come back off). What I'm thinking that should work similar is to place say 12" x 20" x 3/4" piece of plywood or 1/4" aluminum plate between the lift/jack and ADAPTOR1 & engine for a bigger footprint and allow you to move the lift/jack around. Maybe have to temporary attach plywood to adaptor ??.  Phew, this is getting complicated .... maybe I'm just having a brain fart.

[R J]

Ladies & Gentlemen, I do believe the man is looking for a way to suspend the bike in the air.
Engine lift would work, but you might have a problem getting it level as it is being lifted.
I have used a pair of 6 ton stands  under the crash bar.    Makes the bike very stable.     Then, use a floor jack under the rear of the engine to get the rear wheel high enough to put a cement block under it.

This should get you up enough to do any cleaning you want.  Should you want to remove the rear wheel, leave the floor jack under the engine while working in that area.
 

[Spirited-6]

Ladies & Gentlemen, I do believe the man is looking for a way to suspend the bike in the air.
Engine lift would work, but you might have a problem getting it level as it is being lifted.
I have used a pair of 6 ton stands  under the crash bar.    Makes the bike very stable.     Then, use a floor jack under the rear of the engine to get the rear wheel high enough to put a cement block under it.

This should get you up enough to do any cleaning you want.  Should you want to remove the rear wheel, leave the floor jack under the engine while working in that area.
 

RJ, of all the suggestions here, yours has got to the dumbest. Cement Blocks, ???? Come on, you are not building a ????? Why don`t folks use the "best" lift instruckions that have been offered here; IE. Sears Jack and Adapter . RJ, you are like me; living in the past and sometimes and can not embrace new thoughts.    

[frosty]

Getting to complicated for me. I know what works for me. Been there done it a hundred times. Three car tires,exhaust mod., frt. tires,timing wheel, to many acc.,  with no problems on my Valk and many others. 

[Redline +]

Here's mine.



Redline 

[R J]

Ladies & Gentlemen, I do believe the man is looking for a way to suspend the bike in the air.
Engine lift would work, but you might have a problem getting it level as it is being lifted.
I have used a pair of 6 ton stands  under the crash bar.    Makes the bike very stable.     Then, use a floor jack under the rear of the engine to get the rear wheel high enough to put a cement block under it.

This should get you up enough to do any cleaning you want.  Should you want to remove the rear wheel, leave the floor jack under the engine while working in that area.
 

RJ, of all the suggestions here, yours has got to the dumbest. Cement Blocks, ???? Come on, you are not building a ????? Why don`t folks use the "best" lift instruckions that have been offered here; IE. Sears Jack and Adapter . RJ, you are like me; living in the past and sometimes and can not embrace new thoughts.    

Oops. he did ask for a lift, my error, like I said.  Semper fi, we improvised when we didn't have any sheet to work with.   Usually stole it from the Army...........    Remind me sometime and I'll tell you of an instance where they even helped us out..............

[sheets]

I could swear I see the "red" adapter tucked in under there.  Mine is in the mail.  Yrmv,

[roboto65]

Well head down to Houston and Wizard will show you how to lift your bike and I think it works great well the back anyway!!!

2 straps and a front wheel chock and a electric winch in the rear worked great wish  I had a pic !!! Next time.

[Redline +]

I could swear I see the "red" adapter tucked in under there.  Mine is in the mail.  Yrmv,

Yes...the "red" adapter...works for me.  

Redline  

[Sodbuster]

One of the $29 bolt-it-on-leave-it-on adapters arrived at my house the other day, I'll install it next
time I have to lift the bike...

-Mike

Let us know how that sucker works out ...............

[PAVALKER]

I'm beginning to thing we're not on the same page.  All I have is the permanent adaptor (the $29.95 one) that looks like picture below and the same as ADAPTOR1


Sounds like some people are putting the "big red one" on (ADAPTOR2
) and leaving it on and it makes sense that you would have more freedom to move the lift/jack around (although I think it should come back off). What I'm thinking that should work similar is to place say 12" x 20" x 3/4" piece of plywood or 1/4" aluminum plate between the lift/jack and ADAPTOR1 & engine for a bigger footprint and allow you to move the lift/jack around. Maybe have to temporary attach plywood to adaptor ??.  Phew, this is getting complicated .... maybe I'm just having a brain fart.

The bolt on leave it on adapter pictured works great.  I had and sold that heavy awkward red adapter after I got that bolt on leave on one pictured.  Works great, had the bike up and front fairing and forks off for rebuild of front end and just blocked the back tire with a 4x.  I always keep a few small pieces of 1x 2x and 4x for just such a thing.    I have had the bike strapped to the jack and both wheels off and it was fine.  You won't regret that one if you get it....

It's been said before and warrants saying again.... do NOT leave that heavy red angle bolt on take off adapter on and go riding.... if you do make sure your life insurance is paid up and I am the sole beneficiary....

[Sodbuster]

The bolt on leave it on adapter pictured works great.  I had and sold that heavy awkward red adapter after I got that bolt on leave on one pictured.  Works great, had the bike up and front fairing and forks off for rebuild of front end and just blocked the back tire with a 4x.  I always keep a few small pieces of 1x 2x and 4x for just such a thing.    I have had the bike strapped to the jack and both wheels off and it was fine.  You won't regret that one if you get it....

It's been said before and warrants saying again.... do NOT leave that heavy red angle bolt on take off adapter on and go riding.... if you do make sure your life insurance is paid up and I am the sole beneficiary....

Hey PAVALKER - Thanks for providing that bit of info, thats exactly the kind of input I was looking for all along.

[PAVALKER]

You are welcome......   
I know it's winter and all and everyone is going thru withdrawls (well some of us are at least).   But I think we discussed that lift adapter and jack issue on page one of this post.    

That big red one is a heavy awkward item that needs removed before you ride, you have to store it, make sure you don't lose or misplace those bent bolts, and fight to get it on when you need it on, and if you happen to need a lift out on the road..... it's better to have your lift adapter already on the bike instead of back in the garage.  It works great, and does everything I need it to.   I have had both wheels off at once, the front end off with the rear wheel and trunk still on etc. 

I had one of those Lift Tables (got it from HF) and wasn't comfortable with that, it took up too much room in the garage and just became an oversized parking pad that got in the way.  Ugh.... sold it thankfully for what I paid and am much happier.

A tip for a nice bike stool is an old office/computer task chair..... remove the arms and back and you can roll around your bike to detail it or work on while sitting down.

[Sodbuster]

I know it's winter and all and everyone is going thru withdrawls (well some of us are at least).   But I think we discussed that lift adapter and jack issue on page one of this post.

You're prolly right .... May have got caught up in looking at that avatar of your's 

Anyway, thanks to all who have provided all the valuable info here and were patient enough for all the questions I threw out there.  Lots of options to consider.

Sodbuster

[sheets]

Purchased the "red" one.  Put it on this afternoon.  Moved the scoot four inches forward compared to my previous set up.  That baby is rock solid now!  Next time I mess with it I think I can position it to get a couple more inches forward.  It does take a minute or so to rig it, but for long term storage or heavy wrenching I'd have to say its the way to go.  As long as your lift makes for a good foundation, with this thing rigged up your bike isn't going anywhere.  It's plain to see how one could easily do some damage if you left it in place and hit the road . . . and it fell off while underway.  Just have to do a walk around pre-flight inspection before you launch.  Works for me.  Yrmv,     

[hubcapsc]

Purchased the "red" one.  Put it on this afternoon.  Moved the scoot four inches forward compared to my previous set up.  That baby is rock solid now!  Next time I mess with it I think I can position it to get a couple more inches forward.  It does take a minute or so to rig it, but for long term storage or heavy wrenching I'd have to say its the way to go.  As long as your lift makes for a good foundation, with this thing rigged up your bike isn't going anywhere.  It's plain to see how one could easily do some damage if you left it in place and hit the road . . . and it fell off while underway.  Just have to do a walk around pre-flight inspection before you launch.  Works for me.  Yrmv,     

It is too easy to miss on the pre-flight... after I left it on and rode 70 miles away, I decided I'd
tie a string or something from it to the handlebars to somehow insure that I'd never forget it. Another
poster mentioned that Air Force mechanics have tags they use just for that reason to help them remember not to forget...



-Mike