Valk floods easily when cold starting

[Big Tig]

I bought an '01 Valk Interstate (black/gold) this past August from someone in MN, with 46K miles on it and in excellent condition.  I've put about 3K miles on it since, riding in my home state, Colorado.  Really love the bike!

The problem I'm having is starting it, especially when the outside temps are cold, like they are now.  It seems that whenever I choke it, the engine seems to flood very quickly.  Before outdoor temps got this cool, I was having difficulty starting it for the first time in the morning, when the weather was cool (40's-50's) but not cold.  I found that I could get the engine idling without choking it, and let it run a short time, then I could begin to apply some choke and then get it to a fast idle until it started to get warm.  It seems like whenever I'm starting it cold however, if I apply some or full choke, I quickly end up with a flooded engine.

That leads to my second question, how to start after it gets flooded.  If I let it sit for awhile, that usually is the solution.  I've tried opening the throttle to full and keeping the choke of, which works on other equipment, but on the Valk it only makes things worse.  So, the only solution I've found that works is just to let it sit.

Any help from the experienced group is much appreciated!

[John Schmidt]

I'd probably check a couple things. First, do you know if the filter has ever been changed? I'd definitely take a look if I didn't know, it does involve removing the tank....kind of a pain, but necessary. I would think it had been changed by now with that many miles but you never know, mainly because it does involve tank removal and some riders put off doing it.

The other thing to take a look at would be the choke linkage. There is a cover on each side of the engine, remove three screws and they come right off. Under that you see the choke linkage, move the choke lever to see if the "enricher" valve on each carb is actually moving. It would not be unusual for someone to not have replaced that linkage correctly if they ever had it off. I'd also check the plugs, see if they happen to be a colder range plug...could give you some starting problems in colder/cooler weather.

Just a couple things to look at first. Good luck, keep us posted.

[f6john]

     Make sure you don't have a petcock problem. If you haven't had a reason  to check it for proper operation do it now. I understand that you are having a problem with the cold weather in association with the problem but yours is the first flooding problem I've read about in conjunction with use of the choke. I came close to a fuel hydrolock problem a few years ago and it was a combination of the petcock and the carb needles.

[Pete]

Since you bought the bike in MN and live in CO. Do you live at significantly higher altitude than where you bought the bike? If so then you may need to adjust the carbs for your higher altitude, and use less choke when starting. Thanks Pete.

[Valker]

Are you using any throttle when using full choke? Honda recommends full choke and don't touch the throttle. After just a bit, it runs great.

[Ricky-D]

Firstly, I don't think the enrichener system, called the choke, is designed to be used in stages. It should be either fully off or fully on.

Starting the cold motor involves having the choke full on at the start of cranking.

As the motor starts to loosen and warm slightly the idle should even out and increase rpm's. When you can hold an increased idle with the throttle it would be time to take the choke off and then continue to let the motor warm under normal running throttle settings.

Blipping the throttle does nothing to help warm the motor, can cause stalling of the motor and drenching of the spark plugs. A cold motor will not respond in a normal manner to blipping the throttle.

Trying the energize the choke on a low rpm running cold motor will simply stall the motor.

***

[R J]

Ricky-D said it first........      Full choke and NO throttle.

Now, I'll add this, only way you will flood that engine is  to have a petcock problem.

That enricher, is NOT a choke per-say.   

Now, if in fact you did flood it, you is leaving a lot of things out that you did to try and start it.       Mine is setting in the garage, unheated, uncovered, and it will start on about the 9th spin of the engine at ZERO outside, IF the battery is full up.......    I pull the choke/enricher full on, turn the key on and press the button.  When it starts keep your hands off the throttle till it gets some R's on it, when ya take the choke/enricher off, take it all the way off...  Then let it run and get some heat in the engine.

[Pete]

I guess Honda engineers designed the enrichment system lever with a variable friction lever so it would only be used fully on fully off------- Hummmmmm.

Yes full on to start, and then start easing it off as soon as the engine rpms stabilize. Your intent should be to get the enrichment lever full off as soon as the bikes rpms will allow. There is no need to touch the throttle during this process. Getting the enrichment lever full off as soon as possible will save gas, reduce exhaust coloring, reduce plug fouling and reduce gas in the engine oil.

Thats how I do it and it works like a charm, good luck Pete.

[Spirited-6]

I guess Honda engineers designed the enrichment system lever with a variable friction lever so it would only be used fully on fully off------- Hummmmmm.

Yes full on to start, and then start easing it off as soon as the engine rpms stabilize. Your intent should be to get the enrichment lever full off as soon as the bikes rpms will allow. There is no need to touch the throttle during this process. Getting the enrichment lever full off as soon as possible will save gas, reduce exhaust coloring, reduce plug fouling and reduce gas in the engine oil.

Thats how I do it and it works like a charm, good luck Pete.

Plus me on this way. Normanly I do not need to use the "choke" , but when I do like Pete stated. Slow off after start to reduce RPM`s and after a short, very short, warm up then full "off" choke.  

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

It sounds like to me that your not getting full choke. On the interstate push the lever down until it goes below the seam in the control housing. After it starts it'll rev up to about 2000 rpms. Once it gets up to that speed reduce the choke alittle at a time until no choke is needed.

[Rocketman]

Firstly, I don't think the enrichener system, called the choke, is designed to be used in stages. It should be either fully off or fully on.

I frequently use mine in stages.  If it's very cold outside, I'll be at full choke, and then slowly reduce until fully off.  The engine seems to be unhappy if I kill the choke too early, but runs too high if I have it on fully during warm up.
What am I losing/harming by doing so?

[bigdog99]

Mine usually tell me when the choke is no longer needed. starts puttin' like a harley. then its no choke. i wish i had a nickle for every mile i ride with choke on, surprised i didnt hear the gas rushing thru the fuel line.

[bigdog99]

just keep your head down and take small breaths. when its that cold the valkyrie runs like a _ _ _ _ D APE. you wont have to breath, its breath taking. 

[piknik]

In reply to Big Tig's Question on Dec. 20, 09 about cold starting valk I want to say that I have an almost identical problem with my 2000 Interstate. So I wanted to tell you that you are not alone with the problem. Full choke floods it, no choke won't start, so I let it set for a while then come back and try again and again and again until it is maddening. The manual tells me the same thing that many of the posts on this site do full choke or no choke but it does not work on my valk. I have tried all kinds of methods to start it and today I choked it about half way for about 10 seconds then turned it all the way off hit the starter and throttled ever so slightly and it putted a few times and died so I tried again and after 4 or 5 times each time a little closer to success each time I was able to open the throttle a little more and I finally got it started. It worked today, next time who knows. So I just wanted to let you know that you're not alone in this problem, and to ask if you were able to solve yours. And if so, what did you do?
My name is Nick from which I took the handle piknik

[Bill anderson]

How old is the battery? Without a good battery and a full charge the valk is a bear to start in cold weather if it will start at all. If you can, load test the battery it may need to be replaced.

[franco6]

in winter a warmer plug  7  (6?) will assure faster start up and warm up
houston is not too cold so now i use the 7 s and switch to 8 s and 9 s in summer. of course check pour plugs they ll tell you a lot.

[Ricky-D]

It would make sense to me about cold starting problems if the jets have been changed to larger sizes and the needles have been adjusted also.

Sending extra doses of gasoline to the cold motor via larger jet along with the enrichners is beyond the design characteristics of the motor and is self defeating.

Knowing what is there in the carburetors would go a long way to determining what the exact particulars of the problem you mention would be!

***

[Big Tig]

Now that a long cold winter has ended, I finally was able to get Big Tig out of storage and try your recommendations.  Good news!  I tried the most straight forward solutions first, i.e. putting the choke (enricher) all the way on and not touching the throttle until after it had started and begun to warm up.  Voila - it started like a champ and has continued to do so the several times since that I've tried it.  Fortunately, it was nothing more serious than me needing to understand the proper cold weather starting protocol.  Other than having to watch out for all the gravel on the roads, I'm already enjoying the beginning of this riding season!  Gotta love Colorado!

Thank-you for all your good advice and counsel.  I was pleasantly surprised by the number of you who took the time to help me out.  I hope I can return the favor someday!  Thanks again and enjoy the rides this year!

Tom

[Rio Wil]

In reply to Big Tig's Question on Dec. 20, 09 about cold starting valk I want to say that I have an almost identical problem with my 2000 Interstate. So I wanted to tell you that you are not alone with the problem. Full choke floods it, no choke won't start, so I let it set for a while then come back and try again and again and again until it is maddening. The manual tells me the same thing that many of the posts on this site do full choke or no choke but it does not work on my valk. I have tried all kinds of methods to start it and today I choked it about half way for about 10 seconds then turned it all the way off hit the starter and throttled ever so slightly and it putted a few times and died so I tried again and after 4 or 5 times each time a little closer to success each time I was able to open the throttle a little more and I finally got it started. It worked today, next time who knows. So I just wanted to let you know that you're not alone in this problem, and to ask if you were able to solve yours. And if so, what did you do?
My name is Nick from which I took the handle piknik

Hey Piknik......are you sure you are using the choke lever properly (please, no disrespect intended either).  From full off to full on this lever moves about 1 3/4 inches.  The first 1 inch of travel has moderate resistance to movement and does absolutely NOTHING to enrich the carbs....repeat about 1 inch of travel and absolutely ZERO enrichment effect.  The next 3/4 inch of travel you have to push so hard you think you will break something and it feels spongy....be persistent, push it anyway......now the chokes are full enriched and ready to start.  This last 3/4 inch of travel is just a nasty feel.....but push anyway!

[R J]

In reply to Big Tig's Question on Dec. 20, 09 about cold starting valk I want to say that I have an almost identical problem with my 2000 Interstate. So I wanted to tell you that you are not alone with the problem. Full choke floods it, no choke won't start, so I let it set for a while then come back and try again and again and again until it is maddening. The manual tells me the same thing that many of the posts on this site do full choke or no choke but it does not work on my valk. I have tried all kinds of methods to start it and today I choked it about half way for about 10 seconds then turned it all the way off hit the starter and throttled ever so slightly and it putted a few times and died so I tried again and after 4 or 5 times each time a little closer to success each time I was able to open the throttle a little more and I finally got it started. It worked today, next time who knows. So I just wanted to let you know that you're not alone in this problem, and to ask if you were able to solve yours. And if so, what did you do?
My name is Nick from which I took the handle piknik

Hey Piknik......are you sure you are using the choke lever properly (please, no disrespect intended either).  From full off to full on this lever moves about 1 3/4 inches.  The first 1 inch of travel has moderate resistance to movement and does absolutely NOTHING to enrich the carbs....repeat about 1 inch of travel and absolutely ZERO enrichment effect.  The next 3/4 inch of travel you have to push so hard you think you will break something and it feels spongy....be persistent, push it anyway......now the chokes are full enriched and ready to start.  This last 3/4 inch of travel is just a nasty feel.....but push anyway!

And keep your hands off that throttle till you are ready to pull the enricher off.  Otherwise it will die on ya and do what you think is flooding.....

[Rocketman]

Firstly, I don't think the enrichener system, called the choke, is designed to be used in stages. It should be either fully off or fully on.

I frequently use mine in stages.  If it's very cold outside, I'll be at full choke, and then slowly reduce until fully off.  The engine seems to be unhappy if I kill the choke too early, but runs too high if I have it on fully during warm up.
What am I losing/harming by doing so?

I'm glad the original poster figured out the issue, but I'm left curious about my question above.  What is harmed by using the choke/enrich/whatever-you-want-to-call-it-it's-the-same-effect in stages?

[Ricky-D]

My experience dictates what I do.

If what you do works for you, then it must be right.

I don't think there are any hard and fast rules regarding this particular subject.

***

[Gunslinger]

I'm glad the problem is resolved, but my first thoughts on a hard cold starting (used) Valk would be jetting/altitude adjustment as has been mentioned, and TRIGGER WHEEL.

The trigger wheel has long been a cheap and simple modification, but depending on the degree of advance chosen it can make cold starts a nightmare.

[Mr Whiskey]

Howdy all!
I had to drag this old post back because I was having this same prob.
I'm not on here much but I just wanted to say again, thank you all for this fantastic forum!
Rio Wil's excellent discription of HOW to use the "enrichment" lever got my 2KI/S up and running first crack every time. I would never have thought it would move that far.
Only had this "Dragon" a couple of months and this is my first one so I'm still learning.
I'd probably be tearing into the carbs by now if not for y'all.
'preciate everyone here,
                                 Whiskey.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Rocketman, I always use mine that way. Full until engines starts and as rpms increases slowly reduce choke until off completely. If left on, idle goes south along with milage.

[John U.]

+1 on the gradual easing of the "choke" lever. I can't imagine why the lever would lend itself to progressive easing if it was a harmful thing.
I also can't imagine what harm could come of using it that way.

Another member who's name I can't recall mentioned a few years ago that he gives the choke mechanism some help when the hard push on the lever time comes.
If you notice what is moving on the right (brake lever) side you can give the slide a pull with your finger to help it along. It works for me too and I don't have the feeling any more that I'm about to pull the choke cable out by the roots.

[Rocketman]

+1 on the gradual easing of the "choke" lever. I can't imagine why the lever would lend itself to progressive easing if it was a harmful thing.
I also can't imagine what harm could come of using it that way.

Another member who's name I can't recall mentioned a few years ago that he gives the choke mechanism some help when the hard push on the lever time comes.
If you notice what is moving on the right (brake lever) side you can give the slide a pull with your finger to help it along. It works for me too and I don't have the feeling any more that I'm about to pull the choke cable out by the roots.

That's a good idea.  I think I'll steal it.  (: