So my "D" socket should be here today

[shadowmagic]

Is it possible to adjust the air/fuel on all six carburators without removing the airbox and tank? I figure I'll rotate those all to 2.5 turns and see if that makes the backfiring worse or better. Anybody know how hard that would be or if its even doable?

[indybobm]

It is a tight spot. if the motor is hot, you will burn yourself. if someone else has already been in there and buggered the 'D' heads you are going to have a tough time. Get a strong light and a good mirror that you can put under the bowls to get a look at the adjustments. If the wrench goes on okal it is sometimes difficult to keep it from slipping off when you turn it, then you lose count of the turns.
Not really trying to be negative but have fun.

[shadowmagic]

perhaps I'll stick to my plan and just pull the carburators out lol I was trying to cut corners.

[indybobm]

You don't know until you try. Try it on carb #5 and see how it goes.

[Davemn]

I removed the intake runners to give me more room. I wanted to replace the o rings anyway. It’s not easy but it can be done. I put different color dots on tape around the D wrench so I could keep track of the turns.
Good luck. (I’m at 2 turns out)

[98valk]

this is the best honda tool to get, it was org listed for the cbr900.

it has a flexible spring head. been using it for yrs. I don't need to remove intake manifolds with my large hands I can get my fingers behind them to help guide the end of the tool.

07MMA-MT3010B WRENCH PILOT SCREW

[shadowmagic]

Ok, thanks for the tips everyone, I"ll give it a shot and let you know how it went.

[-mike-]

That's what I use:



Geared, can fit any bits. For US carbs You'll have to get a D shaped bit, though.
European carb screws are just slotted.

-mike-

[Gregory Scott 16248]

If you are doing all six pilot screws it is easier to remove the chrome intake tubes. Remove 2 bolts and losen 1 top clamp at the air box then pull the intake tube toward you. Be careful with the o-rings. Put the "D" tool in a 1/4" socket and put a mark on it to keep track of your turns out. Don't use the wrench part, just the socket. Start first by counting the number of turns that the pilot screws are set at (when you turn them in) and keep this information for future reference. Set the pilot screws to the factory setpoint. Then balance all carbs using a Digi Sync and idle set to 900-1000 rpm.

My pilot screws on my 1999 Interstate I have set to:
#1 (2 turns), #3 (2 1/4 turns), #5 (1 1/2 turns)
#2 (2 3/8 turns), #4 (2 turns), #6 (1 1/2 turns)

Good luck,
Greg

[98valk]

most important, close the mixture screws very very litely, to litely seated.  otherwise good chance of ruining the carb body.

[jdp]

Just pull the carbs off and do it right you’ll be happy and it’s not bad I just did mine the hardest thing for me was removing the air box and plastic shield then trying to get them back on but other than that it wasn’t too bad, you can do it

[98valk]

Just pull the carbs off and do it right you’ll be happy and it’s not bad I just did mine the hardest thing for me was removing the air box and plastic shield then trying to get them back on but other than that it wasn’t too bad, you can do it

manual states to remove both upper engine supports. then the rad plastic shield does not need to be removed. the you tube guy clearly didn't read the factory tech manual.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I just opened all the idle screws on my Tourer 1/4 turn yesterday. Didn't have to remove the intake runners; a couple of fingers around each runner, snugly gripping the adjustment tool allowed me to successfully loosen each. (I have the Dynojet version of the tool, so no way to use the thing in a socket. It's round.)

The reason for doing this was a lean condition around 1800RPM under load, and difficulty hot-starting the bike. Now it'll fire up when at ambient temperature with no choke and is very smooth after a minute or two  from a "cold" start. Road-testing to follow.

A Color-Tune is on my short list, as is the tool mentioned earlier in thread.