Hot Water to Washing Machine

[carolinarider09]

Ok... I know this is a little off topic but I have asked several off topic questions and got very good answers. 

The issue, hot water to the washing machine.

Background:

I have a whole house instant on natural gas Rinnai hot water heater.  It works well, no issues with water delivery and desired temperature.  The issue is with the time it takes to get hot water to the washing machine. 

The water heater is located just about as far away from the laundry room as I could have made it (my decision was not thinking clearly, but its also right where the natural gas enters the house). 

The water lines are all Pex tubing and they run through a manifold with a valve for each applicace and sink and tub and shower.  Makes the need for valves at these devices (which leaked in my old house) unnecessary. 

They also result in a problem.  When the washing machine starts and needs hot water, it runs for a set time to fill the tub but has no notion of how hot the water really is.  In essence, its never hot and sometimes not even warm.

Two solutions.

One, install a point of use hot water heater to ensure the water is hot.  Pros, plug and play for an electric one. 

Cons, have to add a 60 amp circuit in a box that does not have that capacity at present (well it might but you also have to run the wires, ect.  ).

Two, and not as elegant as the point of use hot water heater, there is a deep laundry sink right across from the washing machine.  All I have to do is to connect the laundry sink hot water to the washing machine hot water line.  Then all my wife has to do is to turn on the sink's hot water and when its hot she can start the washing machine. 

Cons, means we will be using more water than before (I don't know how much but it would probably be at least two gallons per load).  I will have to install isolation valves so that the two sources  are separated, probably not needed but it would make the connection more "stable" and some tees to allow the cross connect to happen but to also allow the cross connect to be isolated if needed in the future.

I have the Pex tubing and tools do do the job.

Any thoughts on why not to select option two?

[_Sheffjs_]

Would you be doing a two hot wire 208v or in household it can be 240v it is called many things?   A 110v we had to install at a sink far from HWH and it is ok but not great.  Then do you have an easy attic shot to run wires?  If your current system has room, be nice to the wife and run the electric.   

[scooperhsd]

Option 3 - Install a recirc pump that returns via the cold water line. You then turn the recirc pump on before you start the washer. The recirc pump should be the type that shuts off when the hot water arrives. Well - you could use the type that runs on a timer. For doing this , a small tank right at your tankless might work better than using the tankless. You would have the heatloss from your pipes, but that can be mitigated with insulation.

You already pointed out the problem with #1 - I had one in my NC house, but A- it was under the kitchen sink for the faucet and the Dishwasher - and B - it was the type that could be put on the hot water line and it would boost the temperature to a set point. It also sucked down a dedicated 50 Amp breaker to warm 1 GPM. If you really want to run an electric tankless, get one that uses 2 of the 50 amp breakers (yet another reason to scratch this idea). You COULD put a smaller gas tankless closer to the laundry. For that laundry (about the same distance as the kitchen) - I just lived with it and just ran the laundry sink until I had hot water, then started the washer. For 7-8 loads a week (all usually done on saturday or sunday) it worked well enough. Most loads can be run as warm wash cold rinse, so this works well.

You could use a 20 gallon electric tank that runs on 240V 25 Amp (standard electric water heater circuit), and you could feed it from your tankless. The con for this is somewhere to put the 20 gallon heater. I know a 40 gallon electric tank will keep up with the usual washer doing loads one after the other all day long.

[Robert]

There are washing machines that have built-in heaters for the hot water then there’s also a hot water recirculating pump that when the appliances on it recirculates the water from hot to cold and keeps the hot water at the Faucett when the water doesn’t come up fast enough

[cookiedough]

that is one thing I totally dislike about our tankless gas water heater, the time it takes 2-3 minutes of wasted time and water before taking a shower before water gets hot.  That, and the water pressure and hot water drops taking a shower and gets only luke warm at most if you take a shower while either doing dishes or doing laundry at the same time.  Is annoying, but get used to it over the past 10 years.

luckily, I do not have your issue since the washer is directly above our tankless water heater in the basement so takes only 5-10 seconds before HOT water to the washer.   But, taking a shower upstairs some 30 feet away from tankless water heater in basement sucks.

I would just live with it and maybe run a faucet closest to the washer HOT water first since once HOT nearby should only take 5-10 seconds to get HOT water into the washing machine.

If I had a bigger house with multi levels to run HOT water I would never even consider a tankless gas water heater again.  Wasted water is cheap, but the annoyance of waiting 2 minutes for HOT water when you want to take a quick shower gets annoying.

[Moonshot_1]

Maybe something like this in close proximity to the washer.
110v. Plumb it to the existing hot water line. Probably could go with an even smaller unit.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eccotemp-EM-7-0-Gallon-Electric-Mini-Tank-Water-Heater/354102762?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227101067137&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=217466613262&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-350993150049&wl5=9018203&wl6=&wl7=9018162&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=354102762&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uH6BRDQARIsAI3I-UfEr4ciWszgEf_wM4cNaMG2j5fg0YmgYP9mLa16_IMJ72Dl9HeGuS8aAh3kEALw_wcB

[Jess from VA]

Most detergents today do pretty well on cold/warm water.

How much of your two-man laundry really needs hot water to get clean?

I like number 2 for simplicity (but in my house, the hot water to that sink would be on the same pipe as the hot water to the washer, and I'd just have to run the sink until hot, then shut it off and start the washer, so no conversion necessary)

Rather than having to do a complex hookup of sink to washer, what about a dedicated hose of correct length you screw onto the sink faucet and just run the hose over to the washer and fill it with hot water before you turn the washer on.  The washer knows the level and will not overfill with cold water.  (Only for the particular laundry you think needs hot water.)  But that would only give hot water for the first (most important) cycle, unless you stood around repeating the process for each rinse, which I would not do (so those would still be cold/warm).  I realize this is redneck engineering (the only kind I know).

I only average 1-2 loads a month at my house.  And I use Hot/Cold water setting.  

[Rams]

Personally, I'd go with an additional electric heater closer to the washing machine but, that does make it a slightly more difficult fix.

What I would like to point out that regardless of it being a tankless water heater or, a normal tank water heater, the same problem is going to exist.   That hot water still has to get to the point of use.   

I have a similar issue with my kitchen sink.   It's the farthest from the heating source.   We used to have the standard tank water heater, it took a long time or several gallons of water for the heated water to get to the sink faucet.   That heated water line is also the only line that runs through the concrete slab from where the previous tank water heater was.   Our new tankless water heater is now even further away from that faucet so, we have to wait longer.   The new tankless heater location was thought out and recommended by my General Contractor and I agreed.   That tankless water heater feeds the entire home, 3 3/4 bath rooms and the laundry room.   We (or I) had to decide where we thought we would use the most hot water.

But, we were warned of the possible issues and took steps to correct this lack of or delayed hot water if it bothered the "spousal unit" enough.   We wired the kitchen sink cabinet with the electrical outlet necessary to install that electric instant water heater.   So far, she says it's not a big deal, we'll see what happens in the future.

Let us know what you decide to do.   I can always learn something. 

Rams

[Hook#3287]

As cookiedough suggested, the line to the sink is probably the same one to the washer.

I can't believe two hot water lines were run to the same area.

[Rams]

that is one thing I totally dislike about our tankless gas water heater, the time it takes 2-3 minutes of wasted time and water before taking a shower before water gets hot.  That, and the water pressure and hot water drops taking a shower and gets only luke warm at most if you take a shower while either doing dishes or doing laundry at the same time.  Is annoying, but get used to it over the past 10 years.

luckily, I do not have your issue since the washer is directly above our tankless water heater in the basement so takes only 5-10 seconds before HOT water to the washer.   But, taking a shower upstairs some 30 feet away from tankless water heater in basement sucks.

I would just live with it and maybe run a faucet closest to the washer HOT water first since once HOT nearby should only take 5-10 seconds to get HOT water into the washing machine.

If I had a bigger house with multi levels to run HOT water I would never even consider a tankless gas water heater again.  Wasted water is cheap, but the annoyance of waiting 2 minutes for HOT water when you want to take a quick shower gets annoying.

Have you considered turning up the temp on your tankless.   Mine is adjustable to the point that one has to be careful to not turn it up too high.

Rams

[fudgie]

My washer is at the far end of the house and as much water my washer dumps out it gets hot in under a min. I wouldn't worry about it like Jess said. Esp if they do get clean. Most work with warm water.

[cookiedough]

My washer is at the far end of the house and as much water my washer dumps out it gets hot in under a min. I wouldn't worry about it like Jess said. Esp if they do get clean. Most work with warm water.

do you have a tank or tankless water heater though?  Only drawback that is major in my eyes on our tankless is the 2-3 minutes it takes to get hot water to the shower which is furthest away from the unit.  That, and you cannot take a shower while doing laundry.

[scooperhsd]

There are washing machines that have built-in heaters for the hot water then there’s also a hot water recirculating pump that when the appliances on it recirculates the water from hot to cold and keeps the hot water at the Faucett when the water doesn’t come up fast enough

Carolina is getting a new Speed Queen that probably doesn't have that feature.

[Jersey mike]

As cookiedough suggested, the line to the sink is probably the same one to the washer.

I can't believe two hot water lines were run to the same area.

I have to agree with these 2 guys. We have a similar issue. My gas water heater is in the basement some 40+ feet by way of 1/2” piping to my washer and 1/2 bath which is adjacent to the washer.

If we haven’t run the hot water to that end of the house it takes (Especially in the winter) 30 seconds to a minute or so to get warm then hot, so we just run the bathroom sink to get to warmer water, so maybe a couple gallons of water. Our washing machine is plumbed the last in line for water. If you’re worried about wasting water, bottle it and use it in the coffee pot.

As someone else pointed out almost all laundry detergent is designed to work in cold water and most newer laundry machines pull both cold and hot simultaneously to ensure the correct mixture. Our Maytag Duet front loader does that and it’s at least 15 years old.

[scooperhsd]

Personally, I'd go with an additional electric heater closer to the washing machine but, that does make it a slightly more difficult fix.

What I would like to point out that regardless of it being a tankless water heater or, a normal tank water heater, the same problem is going to exist.   That hot water still has to get to the point of use.   

I have a similar issue with my kitchen sink.   It's the farthest from the heating source.   We used to have the standard tank water heater, it took a long time or several gallons of water for the heated water to get to the sink faucet.   That heated water line is also the only line that runs through the concrete slab from where the previous tank water heater was.   Our new tankless water heater is now even further away from that faucet so, we have to wait longer.   The new tankless heater location was thought out and recommended by my General Contractor and I agreed.   That tankless water heater feeds the entire home, 3 3/4 bath rooms and the laundry room.   We (or I) had to decide where we thought we would use the most hot water.

But, we were warned of the possible issues and took steps to correct this lack of or delayed hot water if it bothered the "spousal unit" enough.   We wired the kitchen sink cabinet with the electrical outlet necessary to install that electric instant water heater.   So far, she says it's not a big deal, we'll see what happens in the future.

Let us know what you decide to do.   I can always learn something. 

Rams

That depends on HOW LONG it takes for hot water to arrive. For us, approaching 90 seconds was unacceptable, so I looked at several solutions, settling on the tankless point of use as the easiest to do.

[Robert]

There are washing machines that have built-in heaters for the hot water then there’s also a hot water recirculating pump that when the appliances on it recirculates the water from hot to cold and keeps the hot water at the Faucett when the water doesn’t come up fast enough

Carolina is getting a new Speed Queen that probably doesn't have that feature.

You raised a good point and I looked at the Speed Queen washers and they only rinse cold and on Eco mode only supply hot water for 60 seconds and then fill with cold. I think he should check the operation of these washers to see how big an issue cold only will be.

[carolinarider09]

I want to thank you all for your suggestions and comments.  I have addressed most of them below, and if I missed you, i did read them all. 

Moonshot_1;  Thats the first one I have seen that was plug in.  I knew they were suppose to exist but when I did a search for recommended units, no 120 VAC plug ins showed up. 

Scopperhsd:  Recirc back to the hotter tank is not a viable option I am told (or have read) because of something to do with the way the system (Rinnai Tankless) works.  It seems reasonable but....  Hot water Pex tubing run from the manifold to the washer is about 50 feet through the crawlspace, which while not insulated, is fairly cool in the summer time due to the HVAC system piping runs.  Which means, the tubing (and its not insulated) is at something like 70 degrees when not in use. 

Rams:  And yes its not the hot water heaters fault its how the system is plumbed.  Not something I considered on the front end when building the house.  I picked Pex and the manifold because of videos I watched by Holmes (I think that was his name) and he touted the manifold and use of Pex.  But did not address the washer issue. 

Regarding the water temp, I don't think it would matter but the Rinnai has a 120 degree limit on residential installs. So, its maxed out at 120.  We have two temp controllers so my wife can turn it down for the shower (she likes it at 106).  No valves to adjust for desired shower temp.  But thats another story. I think industrial use Rinnai's have a 140 degree high temp limit.

Jess:  Wife does lots of laundry (well not lots but several loads a day).  Mostly clothes we wear outside and sheets (she changes them ever few days). 

Hook3287:  Yep, they are different lines on purpose.  The idea behind the Pex manifold is that each individual need is supplied by their own individual supply hose.  Pex is cheap (well it is cheaper than copper) and its flexible so its easy to run.  Just string a line from the manifold to the device.  And, you don't have to worry about losing water to one device because you isolated another. 

Robert:  I will look at the specs on the washing machine or have her ask when she goes to the dealer tomorrow to check on the status of the order.  Part of the problem/issue is the change in "washing etiquette" over the years.  It is not longer considered good to use hot water.  However, the old school adults were raised on the notion that hot water with soap, does kill germs.  And this has been reinforced recently in "hand washing" etiquette. 

I did look more at the in line hot water heater from Walmart (Eccotemp EM 7.0 Gallon Electric Mini Tank Water Heater) and interestingly it has an equal number of 5 star reviews and 1 star reviews. 

[Rams]

Personally, I'd go with an additional electric heater closer to the washing machine but, that does make it a slightly more difficult fix.

What I would like to point out that regardless of it being a tankless water heater or, a normal tank water heater, the same problem is going to exist.   That hot water still has to get to the point of use.  

I have a similar issue with my kitchen sink.   It's the farthest from the heating source.   We used to have the standard tank water heater, it took a long time or several gallons of water for the heated water to get to the sink faucet.   That heated water line is also the only line that runs through the concrete slab from where the previous tank water heater was.   Our new tankless water heater is now even further away from that faucet so, we have to wait longer.   The new tankless heater location was thought out and recommended by my General Contractor and I agreed.   That tankless water heater feeds the entire home, 3 3/4 bath rooms and the laundry room.   We (or I) had to decide where we thought we would use the most hot water.

But, we were warned of the possible issues and took steps to correct this lack of or delayed hot water if it bothered the "spousal unit" enough.   We wired the kitchen sink cabinet with the electrical outlet necessary to install that electric instant water heater.   So far, she says it's not a big deal, we'll see what happens in the future.

Let us know what you decide to do.   I can always learn something.  

Rams

That depends on HOW LONG it takes for hot water to arrive. For us, approaching 90 seconds was unacceptable, so I looked at several solutions, settling on the tankless point of use as the easiest to do.

I whole heartedly agree.   I'm just waiting on my wife to tell me she's tired of waiting for hot water at the kitchen sink.   She may not do that.   She rarely washes dishes in the sink.   The dishwasher has it's own heater.   I may get out of this with out having to get back under that darn sink cabinet.  

But, the system is in place if I ever get told to get it done.  

All of our showers get heated water within about 30 seconds so, we're happy with that.   All of our shower heads have temperature controls.   Set it at whatever and the shower head keeps it there as long as it's getting hot water.

Rams

[Bret SD]

Carolinarider,
I'd take the PEX and throw it in the trash, we have a townhome plumbed with PEX during construction, it continually springs new pinhole leaks in the hot line. I have to repair one now.. it's the last repair I can reach without tearing into the stucco overhang outside and ceilings inside. Most in the complex have spent the big bucks replacing it with copper.
Personally I like cold showers and surprisingly my gal has adapted during summer to taking cold showers too.. but she's indicated the clock is ticking so I'll be repairing the line soon. I'm actually glad to have the line depressurized for awhile.. PEX is unreliable in the long term, to be fair the place was built in the 80's.. though if copper were used originally I wouldn't be facing a giant plumbing nightmare.
I'm a general contractor and can do the work myself for the cost of materials, along with a lot of cussing and swearing..

Good luck with your project, there never seems to be an easy answer..

[carolinarider09]

My wife had a similar response regarding the use of cold water when I told her of the conversation. 

She said, "ask them if they like taking cold showers since modern soap is designed for cold water". 

I shall tell her at least one responder enjoys taking cold showers. 

Regarding Pex, we shall have to see about reliability in my case.  Its been in for 10 or more years now.  Only issue has been a isolation valve failure in the manifold.  It will not fully isolate the feed. 

I have the parts to repair the only issue is that I have to isolated the manifold and pull the valve and re-insert the new one. 

[scooperhsd]

Carolinarider,
I'd take the PEX and throw it in the trash, we have a townhome plumbed with PEX during construction, it continually springs new pinhole leaks in the hot line. I have to repair one now.. it's the last repair I can reach without tearing into the stucco overhang outside and ceilings inside. Most in the complex have spent the big bucks replacing it with copper.
Personally I like cold showers and surprisingly my gal has adapted during summer to taking cold showers too.. but she's indicated the clock is ticking so I'll be repairing the line soon. I'm actually glad to have the line depressurized for awhile.. PEX is unreliable in the long term, to be fair the place was built in the 80's.. though if copper were used originally I wouldn't be facing a giant plumbing nightmare.
I'm a general contractor and can do the work myself for the cost of materials, along with a lot of cussing and swearing..

Good luck with your project, there never seems to be an easy answer..

What is so special about your local water that makes PEX unreliable ? It has been used for literally decades over in Europe for infloor water heating as well as for potable water. There was something called Polybutalene tubing (grey stuff) whose plastic fittings were known for developing pinholes / worse - there was a big class action lawsuit on this. My NC house had been plumbed with it, that's why I replumbed with PEX - there were some places where I left the PB pipes in place, but all the joints were taken out of service.

I'd rather deal with PEX than CPVC that is here in MIL's house.

[shadowsoftime]

Why would anybody need a (Hot water heater)     

[Bret SD]

My wife had a similar response regarding the use of cold water when I told her of the conversation. 

She said, "ask them if they like taking cold showers since modern soap is designed for cold water". 

I shall tell her at least one responder enjoys taking cold showers. 

Regarding Pex, we shall have to see about reliability in my case.  Its been in for 10 or more years now.  Only issue has been a isolation valve failure in the manifold.  It will not fully isolate the feed. 

I have the parts to repair the only issue is that I have to isolated the manifold and pull the valve and re-insert the new one. 

Ha, I'm sure the wife will get a kick outta someone taking cold showers, I was shocked when mine actually did it.. amazing really..

Re PEX, if the lines run under in a crawl space it's no big deal to do repairs, my situation has them running thru the 2nd floor framing, feeding 3 baths and the kitchen and hose bibs etc. Not good for me : /

[Bret SD]

Carolinarider,
I'd take the PEX and throw it in the trash, we have a townhome plumbed with PEX during construction, it continually springs new pinhole leaks in the hot line. I have to repair one now.. it's the last repair I can reach without tearing into the stucco overhang outside and ceilings inside. Most in the complex have spent the big bucks replacing it with copper.
Personally I like cold showers and surprisingly my gal has adapted during summer to taking cold showers too.. but she's indicated the clock is ticking so I'll be repairing the line soon. I'm actually glad to have the line depressurized for awhile.. PEX is unreliable in the long term, to be fair the place was built in the 80's.. though if copper were used originally I wouldn't be facing a giant plumbing nightmare.
I'm a general contractor and can do the work myself for the cost of materials, along with a lot of cussing and swearing..

Good luck with your project, there never seems to be an easy answer..

What is so special about your local water that makes PEX unreliable ? It has been used for literally decades over in Europe for infloor water heating as well as for potable water. There was something called Polybutalene tubing (grey stuff) whose plastic fittings were known for developing pinholes / worse - there was a big class action lawsuit on this. My NC house had been plumbed with it, that's why I replumbed with PEX - there were some places where I left the PB pipes in place, but all the joints were taken out of service.

I'd rather deal with PEX than CPVC that is here in MIL's house.

IDK why my PEX gets pinholes, right in the pipe shaft, not the fittings, I'm guessing air bubbles in the manufacturing which in time just break through. I assume it's mostly the hot lines doing it, as it expands and contracts with use..
Our water here is on the alkaline side of the continuum, so I don't think it's the water. Another clue is, leaks are primarily coming from around the garage and enclosed overhang adjacent to it, which tend to heat and cool more often than the pipe in the main areas throughout the remainder of the house.

[carolinarider09]

Well, I have the pieces parts, tools and Pex tubing (Red) so I am ready to crawl under the house, luckily the area to be worked on is just inside the crawl space door, and work and tubing locations and see if I can accomplish the task.

It will be an overkill type job. 

One ball valve on the sink hot water supply, one ball valve on the washing machine hot water supply, a tee downstream of each of these ball valves. 

One end of the tee will go on to the original fixture.  The other end of the tee will be used to cross tie the two lines with another ball valve in the line for isolation.  You never know.....

I have installed two other ball valves using my Pex tools and fittings and they don't leak.  So, while I have only done a couple, it appears to be a simple process. 

[Jess from VA]

Watch out for creepie crawlies down there. 

I'm not a fan of small dark places, esp if I have to share them with creepie crawlies.

[Wizzard]

I can attest that the recirculation pumps work great and solve this issue. You will get hot water instantly at every faucet if you install it right. I did. This is the one I put in   https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Instant-Recirculating-Install/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3BZWNDDXRTRFQ&dchild=1&keywords=hot+water+recirculating+pump&qid=1599830586&sprefix=hot+water+recir%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMRlhCM1RYSzNFMU4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzkzOTcyWklUT0xQNFFQQTk4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTc2MTNNNktHRzhXNUlSMFEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

[scooperhsd]

I can attest that the recirculation pumps work great and solve this issue. You will get hot water instantly at every faucet if you install it right. I did. This is the one I put in   https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Instant-Recirculating-Install/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3BZWNDDXRTRFQ&dchild=1&keywords=hot+water+recirculating+pump&qid=1599830586&sprefix=hot+water+recir%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMRlhCM1RYSzNFMU4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzkzOTcyWklUT0xQNFFQQTk4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTc2MTNNNktHRzhXNUlSMFEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I've always thought that could be a great solution. Carolina stated that recirc would not work with his tankless water heater, and I would agree - to use recirc he would want to put a small Point of use water heater to heat the water for the recirc, and have that fed by the Rinnai (using a check valve to prevent it back flowing into the Rinnai)

[Wizzard]

yeah,, I should have stated , I do not have a tankless heater.

[carolinarider09]

Yes, If I had not installed the Tankless hot water heater and the Pex with the distribution manifold, water system would have been with a recirculation pump and a loop type of water supply for hot water. 

However,,,,,,, 

We shall see what my mod does.  And yes, i am somewhat concerned about the excess water usage but, its not a lot and it goes to my septic system and is redistributed back to the environment in my yard.

[shadowsoftime]

     





                                                           WATER HEATER

[carolinarider09]

Update:

As of early this PM I have completed the installation of three 1/2 inch ball valves and two Tees.  I can not, under the house, use the washing machine hot water at the laundry room sink to pre-warm the hot water line. 

To ensure that it actually worked we took the following steps.

Turned on the laundry room sink hot water, let it run.
Turned on the washing machine and set it for hot water (only two of the five or six load/laundry cycles allow you to use the "hot" selection for water temperature, don't you just love government control of you washing machine). 
Started the washing machine.  Let the drum fill (nothing in the machine) 
After filling stopped, stopped washing machine and checked water temp by hand. It was cold.

I said WTF!

Test Two

Turned on the laundry room sink hot water, let it run
Turned on the washing machine and set for hot water
Turned off cold water to washing machine
Started washing machine.  Let the drum fill as before.

Results. 

Water ran into the washing machine for about 60 seconds (maybe less did not time it).  and then stopped.

I then turned on the cold water and watched as the water flowed into the machine, filling it as expected.

Stopped the machine after it stopped filling and began to cycle.

Checked water temperature, it was cold, maybe not as cold as before but still less than what I would call luke warm. 

Analysis, the washing machine, in this case a Samsung, is not designed to allow you to use anything but cold water for laundry.  There is no way to actually fill the washing machine with hot water (well there is a "sanitize" setting but .........

I will have to see what the speed queen does, if and when we actually get one. 

One part of me says, "you know you can fix this with some simple additions and valves and a few other things that would allow me to switch the hot and cold water lines and do the reverse.  I have the tools and I have the time.  But, it would tend to complicate the supply system.

[cookiedough]

am confused,  how does a Samsung upright washing machine NOT accept HOT water, only COLD water? 

[carolinarider09]

Oh, it accepts hot water for about 60 seconds and then it appears to shut the hotter supply valve/solenoid off and completed the fill of the drum with cold water. 

[Jess from VA]

Could you trick the machine, by just switching the hot and cold feed hoses?

Since you have a new one coming, it seems like spending much time on this one is.... academic.

I'd be tempted to use that machine for some nice 12 gauge shotgun practice.  I've done some of that before, and it was always quite entertaining.  Although when I beat my Lazyboy recliner to death out on the deck (with a sledge hammer), I screwed up my shoulder some.

But it all fit in the big garbage dumper when I was done.

On the other hand, if some deserving outfit needs a used washing machine and would pick it up, I suppose I'd defer the ventilation process.

[carolinarider09]

Jess,

Yes I have considered doing that and seeing what the results were.  I have also considered, just today and somewhat in passing, the construction of my own water supply temperature controller. 

It would be a simple device that would allow me to mix hot and cold water in a mechanical system controlled by electronics so that I could set a temperature and then the device would do the rest.

It would be inserted into the system with a hot and cold water supply lines and a single outlet. 

I'd connect the outlet to the cold water inlet on the washing machine. 

To use, the washing machine would always be set for "cold" water.  Then I'd set the temperature on the device to what I wanted and proceed to wash.

Actually I'd have to teach my wife how do this since I don't really do any washing.  I get it wrong to often. 

[scooperhsd]

What you really need is the water control for an older washer. You would also need to figure out to either make all rinses cold or warm. However, before investing much effort on this, I'd wait and see what happens with your new Speed Queen.

[carolinarider09]

Yes I agree.  I was just doing some advance planning.  What if stuff. 

And I do like solving problems, especially with different solutions. 

[Rams]

Yes I agree.  I was just doing some advance planning.  What if stuff. 

And I do like solving problems, especially with different solutions. 

Boy do I have some good stuff for you to enjoy............. 
Looking forward to your first visit, you may not come back.

Rams 

[Madmike]

Turn off teh cold water valve at the service point at the wall behind the machine and make sure the Hot supply valve is turned on, then cycle through the various options and see see where  you get flow into the machine, flow will be from hot water system, whether it is hot or not will depend on the system.