|
3W-lonerider
|
 |
« Reply #120 on: January 30, 2021, 06:25:10 PM » |
|
Reply with quoteQuote
cleaned out the spark plug wells some more and pulled the plugs for a look. I'll replace them but they actually look pretty good. The #5 plug was rusty which tells me the cap wasn't sealing the well from water infiltration. I'll have to keep my eye on that one once I get the bike on the road.
if you look down in the spark plug holes you will see little drain holes in the tubes. those drain holes should be open to the bottom of the engine. if the spark plug holes were filling up with water those drain holes are plugged.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #121 on: January 30, 2021, 09:33:33 PM » |
|
Reply with quoteQuote
cleaned out the spark plug wells some more and pulled the plugs for a look. I'll replace them but they actually look pretty good. The #5 plug was rusty which tells me the cap wasn't sealing the well from water infiltration. I'll have to keep my eye on that one once I get the bike on the road.
if you look down in the spark plug holes you will see little drain holes in the tubes. those drain holes should be open to the bottom of the engine. if the spark plug holes were filling up with water those drain holes are plugged.
Well thanks for that little tidbit, who knows how long it would have taken me to stumble across that. I do recall seeing a spot in the bottom of each well that looked like a notch, I guess maybe that was it though I didn't give it any thought at the time. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #122 on: January 30, 2021, 09:37:00 PM » |
|
Well, it sure looks better.  I like the yellow caps, where'd you get those? Those came with the Redeye desmog kit. Before I got them I just stuck pieces of duck tape over the holes which worked well enough but the plugs are 'pretty'.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #123 on: January 31, 2021, 06:35:30 AM » |
|
Reply with quoteQuote
cleaned out the spark plug wells some more and pulled the plugs for a look. I'll replace them but they actually look pretty good. The #5 plug was rusty which tells me the cap wasn't sealing the well from water infiltration. I'll have to keep my eye on that one once I get the bike on the road.
if you look down in the spark plug holes you will see little drain holes in the tubes. those drain holes should be open to the bottom of the engine. if the spark plug holes were filling up with water those drain holes are plugged.
Well thanks for that little tidbit, who knows how long it would have taken me to stumble across that. I do recall seeing a spot in the bottom of each well that looked like a notch, I guess maybe that was it though I didn't give it any thought at the time. . I've found it easier to locate those drain holes from the bottom of the engine. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #124 on: January 31, 2021, 07:56:10 AM » |
|
Reply with quoteQuote
cleaned out the spark plug wells some more and pulled the plugs for a look. I'll replace them but they actually look pretty good. The #5 plug was rusty which tells me the cap wasn't sealing the well from water infiltration. I'll have to keep my eye on that one once I get the bike on the road.
if you look down in the spark plug holes you will see little drain holes in the tubes. those drain holes should be open to the bottom of the engine. if the spark plug holes were filling up with water those drain holes are plugged.
Well thanks for that little tidbit, who knows how long it would have taken me to stumble across that. I do recall seeing a spot in the bottom of each well that looked like a notch, I guess maybe that was it though I didn't give it any thought at the time. . I've found it easier to locate those drain holes from the bottom of the engine. More good info, thanks. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
..
|
|
« Reply #125 on: February 02, 2021, 03:11:26 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #126 on: February 07, 2021, 09:42:53 PM » |
|
We had about a week long cool spell here in Daytona Beach with temps hanging in the 50s. That's too cold for me to work in the unheated garage. My hands don't do well in those temps. I spent some time yesterday doing some clean up and today I spent 3 or 4 hours working. I was finally able to get the pad pin out of the front caliper. When the head of the pin finally rounded out I figured it was a lost cause and I'd have to buy a used caliper but figured why not try drilling it. I didn't think I'd be able to do it as I don't have metric drill bits with me, I couldn't get a good punch mark in the pin, doubted I'd be able to "thread the needle" and get through the pin without damaging the caliper itself, either the threads or the hole the pin goes through but nothing ventured nothing screwed up. As you can see from the pictures below I surprised myself and got the pin drilled, the threaded head of the pin out and didn't do any damage to the pin threads or the hole the pin goes through -- will wonders never cease??!! Just to be sure the threads were good I ran the other pad pin in and out several times with no problem. Pin after the head was drilled off. You can see that I threaded the needle.   Even after I got the pin out the threaded head was still stuck in the hole. I drove my extractor in and started cranking on it with my crescent wrench. I was sure something would break before it came out but very slowly it started backing out. The first photo below is when I knew I was going to get the head out and the last picture shows what was left of the pin.   |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #127 on: February 07, 2021, 09:51:02 PM » |
|
After I finished getting the pad pin out of the caliper I went to work on the pistons. I had to drive them into the hole a bit with a drift to break them loose but then I was able to work them both out with channel locks. I spent more time cleaning the caliper and both front calipers, the front and rear master cylinders are ready for rebuild which will happen once I've got the engine fired and know it's good.
I then started working on one of the carbs. I have the Redeye carb overhaul kit which is amazingly detailed in content and information. I got one of the air cutoff valves tested (it was good) and started familiarizing myself with the kit contents. If I can get a few warm days I could have the carbs done and ready to remount.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jess from VA
|
|
« Reply #128 on: February 07, 2021, 10:27:05 PM » |
|
Rusty, I'm really enjoying these posts and pics. Keep them coming. But a lot of us are going to have to really work on any sympathy for 50 degree days in Daytona.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #129 on: February 08, 2021, 01:44:38 PM » |
|
Rusty, I'm really enjoying these posts and pics. Keep them coming. But a lot of us are going to have to really work on any sympathy for 50 degree days in Daytona. Yea, I know, sorry, it wasn't a complaint about the weather here, it's great. I was just saying that my old man's hands don't work well at those temps so I don't bother trying. Back home in New Jersey the temps are in the 20s and there's a lot of snow on the ground so I'm happy here. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #130 on: February 09, 2021, 05:25:18 PM » |
|
I spent a few hours this afternoon getting stuff lined up to reassemble the carbs. I tested 3 of the air cut valves which are OK. I also determined the bike had a dynojet kit installed and the jetting listed below.
My understanding is with the TBR 6x6 pipes changes have to be made, I guess that's why the PO put the needles in. I've done just a little reading here about the 6 into 6 pipes and I've seen references to going to a 105??? main, is that right . . . 102?? . . . 10something??
At any rate the PO took the TBR 6x6 off and went back to the stock exhaust. I was going to keep the stock on it but had to pull it off to make access to the desmog exhaust ports and also to fix the broken front stud on the left side. I'm thinking I'll put on the TBR pipes just because I feel like it.
Anyway I figured I'd put this information here so I can find it in the future.
100 main
35 slow
Cobra Dynojet kit.
92-1269
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #131 on: February 10, 2021, 09:14:14 AM » |
|
Yesterday as I was doing the final touches on carbs 2, 4 and 6 in preparation for reassembly I realized I had lost one of the stock needle washers. I spent some time searching for it but it's so small that there is little chance I'll find it. I doubt I'll be able to find a replacement in a local store and I'm prepared to buy a new needle to get it but I'd rather not lay out 20some dollars to get it. Does anyone happen to have one they would be willing to send me? I'm willing to pay for it but I'd rather not lay out 20some $$ if I can avoid it. Below is the info. on what I'm talking about.   |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
dpcarson
|
|
« Reply #134 on: February 11, 2021, 07:08:18 PM » |
|
Thought I would throw out a couple other things now that I cruised through your project progress.
You can probably go to a local Ace hardware and get the washer for the needle. My local ace has a load of small parts like that and I hit it up often before paying shipping on odd parts. They also have a great selection of stainless and chrome hardware.
For that tank, If you go to Lowe's you can probably find some 20% or 30% white vinegar. That will work wonders on rust removal in that tank and not be near as much trouble as muriatic acid which a lot of people try. However, it will take longer. Think week or more instead of hours or days. I didn't watch the videos that were shared to you, but there are baffles inside the valkyrie tanks. Do not put screws and nut s and bolts in there to remove rust. Get a piece of chair from the hardware store and put in there to shake it around and remove some of the rust. BUT, beware, it can get stuck under the baffles and brackets inside the tank and give you a fit getting it out. Also, make sure to blow out the tank vent while you have it off.
With the amount of rust everywhere else on the bike, make sure to check the alternator. That often gets overlooked. Also don't forget those front fork seals.
Ultrasonic, soft wire brushes, and steel wool are your best friends for those calipers. After you have run it through the ultrasonic with some barsol or marvels, get an old piece of leather and use it as a cushion and grab that caliper cup with channel locks and yank her out. It is rare I have ever seen a motorcycle caliper that needs to be replaced.
Go ahead and check your coils now. Oh, the thing I have forgotten too many times and cuss myself every time. When you are putting those carbs back on, don't forget the damn plastic air dam.
Before you go too far, I am curious why PO had it sitting for so long. You may want to pull the starter and make sure it hasn't been hydrolocked before you go to the trouble of reassembling the whole thing.
Keep on rolling. And, no more posting about how 50 degrees is too cold to go out and work on the bike. That is just wrong. This time of year we call that great riding weather!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.  |
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #135 on: February 12, 2021, 08:33:33 AM » |
|
Thought I would throw out a couple other things now that I cruised through your project progress.
You can probably go to a local Ace hardware and get the washer for the needle. My local ace has a load of small parts like that and I hit it up often before paying shipping on odd parts. They also have a great selection of stainless and chrome hardware.
For that tank, If you go to Lowe's you can probably find some 20% or 30% white vinegar. That will work wonders on rust removal in that tank and not be near as much trouble as muriatic acid which a lot of people try. However, it will take longer. Think week or more instead of hours or days. I didn't watch the videos that were shared to you, but there are baffles inside the valkyrie tanks. Do not put screws and nut s and bolts in there to remove rust. Get a piece of chair from the hardware store and put in there to shake it around and remove some of the rust. BUT, beware, it can get stuck under the baffles and brackets inside the tank and give you a fit getting it out. Also, make sure to blow out the tank vent while you have it off.
With the amount of rust everywhere else on the bike, make sure to check the alternator. That often gets overlooked. Also don't forget those front fork seals.
Ultrasonic, soft wire brushes, and steel wool are your best friends for those calipers. After you have run it through the ultrasonic with some barsol or marvels, get an old piece of leather and use it as a cushion and grab that caliper cup with channel locks and yank her out. It is rare I have ever seen a motorcycle caliper that needs to be replaced.
Go ahead and check your coils now. Oh, the thing I have forgotten too many times and cuss myself every time. When you are putting those carbs back on, don't forget the damn plastic air dam.
Before you go too far, I am curious why PO had it sitting for so long. You may want to pull the starter and make sure it hasn't been hydrolocked before you go to the trouble of reassembling the whole thing.
Keep on rolling. And, no more posting about how 50 degrees is too cold to go out and work on the bike. That is just wrong. This time of year we call that great riding weather!
Thanks for the post and the recommendations. I appreciate people's input whether I follow it or not. Often people mention stuff I didn't think of and if they mention stuff I've already thought of it helps as confirmation that I'm a freaking genius.  I've been to one local Ace and found a couple small fractional stainless washers which I bought. I had forgotten to take the needle so I was just guessing. I can't even remember what they were #2 or #4? When I got home and tried them, one was clearly too small but the larger might work once I make sure the schmutz is off the needle. At any rate finding those has encouraged me that I might be able to source one locally if the larger one I bought is too small. I picked up a gallon of EvapoRust for the tank. My plan, if the engine tests good, is to first blow as much of the rust out of the tank as I can (I bought a small 6 gallon air compressor) Once I've cleared as much of the chunky stuff as possible I'll dump in the Evaporust and let it sit for a few days and see what it does. When I initially shook out the rust that I pictured in the thread, I discovered the truth of what you said about the baffles. I discovered I had the shake the tank in a circular motion in order to get it 'off the bottom' then get it over the baffle and out the hole, kind of a pain. It was then that I decided against putting anything in the tank like nuts and bolts. I saw high concentration vinegar in some store and am keeping it in mind. I want to be really careful with the paint on the tank because the paint on the bike is in pretty good shape and I'd like to not screw it up. Can you tell me if the high concentration vinegar will damage the paint? If the answer is no I may try that too if it comes to it. Thanks for the advice on the starter, alternator, coils and fork seals, I'll check all at some point though I may postpone that time till I've taken some 'test rides' to insure the bike is sound. I've also been thinking about the swingarm since I have to pull the rear wheel anyway. On the other hand the bike has 24K miles on it so most of the corrosion is surface, it's not like in the north where the bike has been ridden at speed on salty roads year in year out. Yes on the plastic shield, I made sure I left it sitting on top of the rear fender so it's always in the way and I can't forget about it. We'll see if I forget about it. I was able to get both pistons out of both front calipers using channel locks like you mentioned. Of course all 4 pistons are trashed - oh well. The calipers look pretty good and when it's time I'll order rebuild kits for front and rear masters and calipers. I won't get to the rear caliper till I've successfully run the engine. The PO is 80 years old. He told me, and I have no reason to doubt him because he was pretty feeble, that he's been in and out of the hospital a number of times in the past few years. I'm not even sure he remembers when he last rode the bike though he kept the registration current through 2018 if I recollect correctly. The schmutz I saw in the petcock and carbs doesn't happen all that quickly so three years or more sitting sounds right. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: February 12, 2021, 08:40:51 AM by RustyValkry »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
dpcarson
|
|
« Reply #136 on: February 12, 2021, 01:38:19 PM » |
|
the strong vinegar will not hurt the paint as long as you do not let it sit for an extended period. I wish I had taken pictures of the last one I just did. I was just happy the tank wasn't leaking through pinholes in the metal. Paint had to be the only thing left holding it together. If you do get a touch of slight discoloration on the tank then just buff it off with Maguires polish and it will come right out.
For the tank. I used vinegar, one because it was cheaper than evaporust. Vinegar with the chain in there and shake it around. Get the chain out is way easier. The vinegar, like the evaporust, can be used multiple times. I took old white cotton t-shirts and cut them up and used a bungee cord to strap them over a 5 gallon bucket and then poured the vinegar in it and let the t-shirt catch all the rust. Of course 5 gallons is not enough so I have another 5 gallon bucket to pour into after the first one is about 2/3 full. I would strain the vinegar every two or three days and then pour it back into the tank. Muriatic acid is way better, but I don't have anywhere to dispose of it at after using. Vinegar I just use a funnel and put it back in the bottle and then use it as weed killer instead of roundup.
Just fyi, I saw that you pulled the exhaust to replace a broken stud. Pay attention to that when you get her back running. Those copper crush washers do not always re-seal very well.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers. |
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #137 on: February 19, 2021, 06:11:24 PM » |
|
It's been cool here for a while so I haven't been spending much time in the garage though I have succeeded in reassembling the first 3 carbs (2, 4 and 6).
I mentioned a while ago that I lost one of the needle washers. I've stopped at several stores in the last week or so trying to find a suitable replacement without spending the $23 for one new OEM needle and washer. This afternoon I finally found some. I figured that, knowing myself, I might need more than one before I get all 6 carbs done so I bought 6. I think I can afford the 72 cents it cost me.
I've already mentioned how impressed I am with the Redeye desmog and carb rebuild kits. It can be tough to make a good choice between competing vendor kits (ex. All Balls vs. Redeye) but I think choosing the Redeye kit was the better choice for me because it seems to have more of the soft parts I needed.
I also decided, at some point, that I was going to replace all the float valves. The more I looked at the old ones the more concerned I became about them and finally decided I wasn't going to chance reusing them. I also mentioned that I bought new mixture screws since most of the slots were damaged on the old ones due to them being frozen.
If it's warm enough tomorrow I think I'll try to get the three I'm working on reassembled as a unit. One of the things that came with the Redeye kit was the pair of connectors for the throttle link lever. Trying to find those 2 cotter pins would be a real pain . . . man I'd better be careful NOT to lose those.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: February 19, 2021, 06:15:27 PM by RustyValkry »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #138 on: February 20, 2021, 07:17:50 AM » |
|
I also decided, at some point, that I was going to replace all the float valves. The more I looked at the old ones the more concerned I became about them and finally decided I wasn't going to chance reusing them. Pretty sure you made the right choice here |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #139 on: February 21, 2021, 05:20:11 PM » |
|
It was warm enough today that I spend 5 or 6 hours working on the RustyValkry. Carbs were on the menu for today. I got 2, 4 and 6 reassembled as a unit and got 1, 2 and 3 broken down. I got 1 and 2 hosed off and run through the ultrasonic but I ran out of giddy-up at that point. I've still got to get one mixture screw out and the whole job depends on me being able to do that. If I can't get it out or I totally destroy the socket it threads into then the job will come to a halt until I can find a replacement carb.
Another day like today and I'll have all six reassembled and then I can start the fiddling process. I'm concerned about the mixture screws initial setting. I'm going to go with 2.5 for all of them because that's what one was set at, the only that wasn't frozen that I could turn freely enough to close then back out while counting. The next concern is getting the floats sorted out. I've got to do more reading about how to adjust them.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #140 on: February 21, 2021, 08:50:40 PM » |
|
No adjustment on floats. Once installed and hooked to its needle valve slowly press the float down and make sure it stays in contact with the needle valve all the way down (which is up) once all the way down release the float and it should spring back up if it stays down it can cause hydro lock because on the bike it won’t cut the fuel flow at the top
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: February 22, 2021, 01:51:06 PM by Chrisj CMA »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #141 on: February 23, 2021, 03:54:19 PM » |
|
Thanks Chris for the feedback on the float valve. I've been checking them for the point at which they contact the seat and looking at the spring action, so far they all have looked good. Today I finished getting 2, 4 and 6 assembled on the stay plates so they're done. I got #3 assembled. Unfortunately #5, the one with the frozen mixture screw, is scrap. After I got it out of the ultrasonic I tried turning the screw again with a screw driver but the head is too damaged. I tried cutting the slot deeper with my multitool but there wasn't enough meat left either on the screw OR the well it's in. I figured I'd try drilling it and using an easy out. I started with a drill bit as large as I could fit in the well to cut the head as level as possible. That step worked well so I got a smaller bit to drill down the center. I had problems keeping the bit centered but I finally got it drilled and tried an easy out, a #3 but it was too small for the hole so I tried a #4 which caught but the brass (I assume it's brass) was too soft and the easy out just took bites out of it. It was at that point that I decided I wasn't going to win this battle so I moved on to working on the other carbs. I'll have to see if I can find a used one on Ebay. Here's a picture of the mixture screw after I cut the head down flat.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #142 on: February 24, 2021, 03:47:10 PM » |
|
I'm disappointed I couldn't get that mixture screw out. I contemplated trying to finish drilling it out but decided if I could find a used carb body I'd go for it. Just a little while ago I found a used body on Ebay which is a little less than a third of the cost of a new one. At this point the cost is less painful than the time I'd lose trying to save the old body.
If there's anyone still watching this I need some input about the size of the hoses I need. I know one is 10mm because I can see it on the outside of the hose. The other's I'm not so sure. I thought I saw some sizes somewhere in a reference document but I can't remember where. I'm desmogging so I don't need to replace any of those hoses. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
luftkoph
|
|
« Reply #143 on: February 25, 2021, 08:24:20 AM » |
|
Not sure which hoses you’re talking about, but on a side note Bell Metric has a lot of metric fasteners, hose,clamps etc. pretty fast shipping
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Some day never comes
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #144 on: February 25, 2021, 09:25:18 AM » |
|
Not sure which hoses you’re talking about, but on a side note Bell Metric has a lot of metric fasteners, hose,clamps etc. pretty fast shipping
Thank you for that, I just bookmarked the site in my Valkyrie folder. Lots of interesting stuff there. I'm going to go out again today and try to find something locally that will work we'll see. I just ordered some header gaskets, $$$ not too bad but the shipping is ridiculous. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #145 on: February 28, 2021, 11:14:13 AM » |
|
Yesterday I got carb #3 assembled and on the stays. That leaves #5. The body I bought is in transit now, as soon as I get it I'll assemble and mount it then I can start bench syncing them. Yesterday after I got #3 mounted on the stay I played with the adjusting screws trying to understand how the syncing worked. After fiddling a while I realized I had the carb assembly sitting on the bench upside down which is why nothing made sense as I was turning the adjusting screws.  I'm not quite sure how the throttle stop screw works. I had a nylon washer and a flat washer with it. I don't recall there being a spring with it but it makes sense that there would be a spring. So far I haven't found a diagram or picture showing the stop screw with any additional components but I'll keep looking. I've got the exhaust off. I mentioned previously I took it off to make it easier to get to the AIR port on the exhaust manifold. I had a look at the broken stud on the #2 cylinder and not only is it broken but it's also badly damaged so there's no way I can use 2 nuts to try to back it out. I'm going to wait till I get the bike back home in Jersey and then I'll weld a nut to the stud. That way I'll apply heat and also get a way to turn it. In the meantime that decides which set of pipes I put back on. The Two Brothers 6x6 pipes have individual clamps for each cylinder. The stock pipes have a solid flange so I need to go with the stock pipes to get help holding the #2's flange in place. I decided to pull the passenger footrest/exhaust supports off the clean off the rust and paint. I wanted to see how well I could get them prepped and painted. I got both off prepped and painted and I think this approach will be workable for all the areas that have corrosion. This bike will never be pretty unless I strip it to the frame and refinish everything which AIN'T going to happen so I'll gladly settle for a 20 footer . . . OK, maybe a 30 footer. I bought various types of hose to replace what was on the bike. One of the challenges to get it running, after figuring out how to sync the carb, will be getting all the hoses installed, figuring out where they go and which I still need after desmogging. I've been reading about tires for it. It currently has a 180/70R16 Dunlop Elite3 on the rear and an 150/80R17 Avon Venom R on the front. I didn't notice the date on the Dunlop but the Avon has a 2007 date on it so it's toast, gotta go. I'm realizing it's not easy to find the sizes this bike needs. Once I determine the engine is good I'll order tires. Not sure I want to invest in the Avons until I've lived with the bike for a while but choices may be limited. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
..
|
|
« Reply #146 on: February 28, 2021, 04:55:04 PM » |
|
Shinko?
Some will tell you they are crap but I've used them on a variety of bikes for years and many thousands of miles. On and off road.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #147 on: February 28, 2021, 05:11:14 PM » |
|
Shinko?
Some will tell you they are crap but I've used them on a variety of bikes for years and many thousands of miles. On and off road.
It may end up being the brand I can find in the size I need when the time comes. I'd try Shinko tires if it came to it. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ron in Buffalo
|
|
« Reply #148 on: March 01, 2021, 05:39:10 AM » |
|
Shinko?
Some will tell you they are crap but I've used them on a variety of bikes for years and many thousands of miles. On and off road.
It may end up being the brand I can find in the size I need when the time comes. I'd try Shinko tires if it came to it. I have used Shinko on many different bikes as well. They are not as good as the more expensive brand tires but for the bang for the buck they are hard to beat. Always got a lot of miles out of them. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1997 Valkyrie & 2002 BMW F650GS
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #149 on: March 04, 2021, 05:29:26 PM » |
|
Today I decided to check the float levels. I watched a YouTube video I found with someone doing the float level check. He was doing it with the carb assembly turned upside down. Because of this he was getting a false reading due to the weight of the floats partially depressing the valve plunger and drew the conclusion that the floats needed replaced. I didn't conclude the YouTuber was doing it wrong until I read the manual which said the float level should be 13.7 +/- 5mm read with the float "just touching" the valve. It was then that I recalled the previous times I'd checked floats (I don't do it often) and yes, I checked them with the float just touching the top of the valve, NOT with the full weight of the float on the valve. At any rate it appears that my floats are fine. I took pictures. Why? Just because. Floats away from valves.  Floats juuuuust contacting the valves. This is when I checked them.  Carbs on their back with the full weight of the floats compressing the valve plunger.  Oh, BTW, I didn't mention that 2 or 3 of my float valves had frozen plungers. Good thing I replaced them all. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
The emperor has no clothes
|
|
« Reply #150 on: March 04, 2021, 05:51:29 PM » |
|
They sure are looking a lot better I’ve got to admit, I didn’t think you’d get this far with the bike. No disrespect, it was just really BAD ! Well done |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #151 on: March 04, 2021, 05:52:33 PM » |
|
Speaking of carbs. About the time I was going to quit for the day I discovered the #5 carb body had arrived so I assembled it. Miracle of miracles I actually ordered the correct part and received the correct part. Tomorrow I'll add it to the assembly and start bench syncing them. I've never synced multiple carbs so I'll be going slowly and carefully. I've also got to replace all the rubber hoses. Part of that job will be figuring out what hoses I need since I desmogged the engine. Nothing like making my life more difficult.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #152 on: March 04, 2021, 06:05:19 PM » |
|
I figured I'd better start doing something with the gas tank. I haven't touched it since I initially pulled it and found the wonderful rustiness inside. In fact I just stuck it in the back of my Expedition where it's been quite happy for the last couple months. I started by making an extension for my vacuum that I thought might be able to get into the nooks and crannies of the tank. I was able to get it where I wanted and I DID get some goodness out of the tank but in the end I just started shaking the tank and got a lot more very fine rust powder out the petcock bung. Then I decided to try water and detergent which I did. I got a lot of sludge out with that and a lot of rinsing. Once it dries out a bit I'll dump a gallon of Evapo-rust in and start moving that around. I was trying to figure out how I could vacuum in the tank. I ended up taking the new fuel line I bought for the bike and taping onto the crevice tool on the vacuum. It worked but not as well as I had hoped.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #153 on: March 04, 2021, 06:38:10 PM » |
|
When I pulled the petcock when I started working on the RustyValkyrie I noted that most of the screen was missing. All that was left was a part of the plastic frame that held the screen but none of the screen was left. I assumed it was in pieces inside the tank. Today I could hear a large piece rattling around as I tried to shake out rust particles. I figured it would be sheer luck to be able to get that piece out. When I was rinsing the tank out for the third time I noted the flow out the petcock hole was very slow so I turned the tank over and there was the rest of the screen frame hanging out the hole. That's was very lucky. There was no screen left and it looks like it must have been about half the original screen frame that broke off.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mooskee
|
|
« Reply #154 on: March 05, 2021, 10:01:19 AM » |
|
I've never synced multiple carbs so I'll be going slowly and carefully. The best tool for syncing the carbs is the Digisync. It has connection for all 6 carbs and a tach. It is worth every cent. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #155 on: March 05, 2021, 12:26:14 PM » |
|
I've never synced multiple carbs so I'll be going slowly and carefully. The best tool for syncing the carbs is the Digisync. It has connection for all 6 carbs and a tach. It is worth every cent. Thanks I bookmarked that. Initially I'm going to bench sync it. If I can do it right my understanding is that'll get me running and for now that's what I need to do. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #156 on: March 06, 2021, 08:51:14 PM » |
|
Today I got carb #5 installed on the stays so that's all of them. Then I bench synced them which was an interesting process. When I was initially cleaning up the carbs I noticed that the butterfly on #6 was very hard to open and close to the extent that the spring couldn't close it. Soaking it and running it through the ultrasonic cleaner didn't free it so I finally took the butterfly out and removed the shaft. After that I was able to get it working like the rest of them. Today when I was syncing I noticed the butterfly on #6 wouldn't adjust properly. I began to wonder if it hadn't seated properly when I reassembled it after cleaning so I pulled it off again. I messed with it for 10 or 15 minutes and was finally able to get it synced like the rest. I guess I'll know soon enough if it worked.
I replaced the fuel and drain lines. I've got to put new vent lines on tomorrow and I'll be ready to fill the bowls and check for leaks.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Timbo1
|
|
« Reply #158 on: March 10, 2021, 01:12:28 PM » |
|
Isn't that a very gratifying sound after all the work you've put into it. Good to see another old girl being rescued and put back into service. Keep up the good work.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: March 10, 2021, 05:34:54 PM by Timbo1 »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RustyValkry
|
|
« Reply #159 on: March 10, 2021, 03:02:32 PM » |
|
Isn't that a very gratifying sound after all the work you've put into it. Good to see the another old girl being rescued and put back into service. Keep up the good work.
Yep it was nice. I had my brother videoing while I was running it. It ran for quite a while on what was in the bowls and fuel lines. What a PITA it was getting the left side connecting tubes onto the carbs. I spent a loooong time fighting with those three. The carbs sat on the bike last night with fuel in the bowls so before I tried to start it I pulled the plugs and insured the bowl valves had seated, all was well. Tonight I'll order stuff I need, tires, brake overhaul kits, etc. Some of it I can get locally like oil and filters, maybe new timing belts. I'll post a few more videos my brother took while I was playing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC51bXqGt0w |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
