Saving The RustyValkry

[RustyValkry]

Do I understand correctly that you have to remove the rear axle to get the rear caliper off?  The caliper can't be detatched from the caliper bracket?

If you don't want to pull the axle, if I recall correctly at one point in time I was able to get the caliper off by first removing the pads by pulling the pin at the rear of the calipers.  Then there's a big bolt at the front of the caliper.  And then there's a pin that the outer caliper slides on toward the rear that needs I believe a 14mm wrench to access.  It won't come out completely as it's captive but once it's fully un-threaded it no longer holds the rear of the calipers in place and the calipers can be removed.


It's probably just as easy or easier to just loosen the axle nut and slide the axle in past the caliper bracket and pull everything out.

Eventually I will pull the axle, I have to because I need to change the rear tire and check the O-rings and splines, which I expect will be fine, but I'm not ready to put the bike on the jack because the Rus'T" is already on the jack.  Notice the theme here, Rus'T' and RustyValkry, I like old bikes though the RustyValkry is 17 years newer than the Rus'T'.

[Timbo1]

Eventually I will pull the axle, I have to because I need to change the rear tire and check the O-rings and splines, which I expect will be fine, but I'm not ready to put the bike on the jack because the Rus'T" is already on the jack.  Notice the theme here, Rus'T' and RustyValkry, I like old bikes though the RustyValkry is 17 years newer than the Rus'T'.

I'm not sure what a Rus'T is?  But off of bike topic I have an affinity toward rusty tools myself.  I've got a garage full of old cast iron tools from the 1940's - 1980's that I've picked up for little of nothing and restored to good working condition.  I get quite a lot of enjoyment in bringing back to life something that has been left abandoned or neglected.  And these old cast iron tools are tough, will last several lifetimes with maintenance.

[..]

Well, Timbo I think I've got you beat on the schmutz in the reservoir. 


Is there a vendor that stands out for parts for our Valkyries?

Yep that looks bad for sure.  I don't have a goto place for parts specifically.  I usually get them on ebay or amazon.  Every time I tried calling the stealers they would have to order and were more expensive than what it cost me to just order online myself.  I am fortunate that there's a local guy here that does a lot of work on Valks that's I've picked up a few parts from here and there and at the same time was able to pick his brain.  He has adds running on the forum banners and his name is Bob (AKA - Attic Rat.)  Look for that banner and if you cant find a part he may have it.

Price check here.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/c/honda_motorcycle_2000/parts

If you are an Amazon Prime member you might get free shipping once you know the part number.

[RustyValkry]

Thanks for the recommendation Britman.  Not sure why but your post didn't show up as a new post when I checked for them.  I found it when I came here to add another progress post.

It's been in the low to mid 50s here in Florida for the past few days and I don't really like sitting in a 50 degree garage working on my bikes so progress has stopped.  I also have a bike on the jack I need to finish so I can turn my full attention to the Valk.  

I DID get the rear master pulled off the bike and disassembled.  There was enough schmutz in it to easily justify pulling it apart and there was evidence of it leaking though I didn't see any wetness on the outside.  

I also got the pin out of one of the front calipers.  It's pretty rusty so I'm not sure I'm going to try to save it.  I'll sand on it for a while to see what it looks like under the rust.  

It's weird that Honda put a cap over the pin screws designed for a straight screw driver.  I guess Honda figures everyone does regular maintenance so the cap will never gall in place.  I had trouble getting one of those out.  Anyway, the pistons are completely frozen on the front caliper I was able to get the pin out of.  150 PSI of air didn't even budge it . . . 'if I had a hammer . . . ."  Haven't been able to break the pin loose in the other front caliper and I'm thinking the head is going to round out before it breaks loose.  I'm going to look at whether it's feasible to cut the pin to slip the pads out and then get a vice grip on the pin to get a better grip.  That's at the feasibility study stage at this point.

The word of the day is . . . anti-seize.

[..]

Thanks for the recommendation Britman.  Not sure why but your post didn't show up as a new post when I checked for them.  I found it when I came here to add another progress post.

 

Who knows. I haven't got notifications for YEARS!

[gordonv]

When you say "starter switch" do you mean on the handle bar?

Yes, the one on the handle bar.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm
(I thought the pictures where part of it, but I think they link)

I ran my bike for 2 years before I got the petcock to shut off, 1 of the 2 items it takes before a hydro lock can happen. A risk? Yes, but so is motorcycle riding. If you know what a hydro lock is and what it sounds like, no damage should happen if you get one and don't hit the start switch a second time.

I would be more inclined to run carb cleaner through a running bike and ride it, for a year, and then fix issues as they come up, than to rebuild the 6 carbs. Other items I mentioned can come about from improper maintenance by the previous owner or by the unknowledgeable dealership that serviced the bike.

[RustyValkry]

When you say "starter switch" do you mean on the handle bar?

Yes, the one on the handle bar.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm
(I thought the pictures where part of it, but I think they link)

I ran my bike for 2 years before I got the petcock to shut off, 1 of the 2 items it takes before a hydro lock can happen. A risk? Yes, but so is motorcycle riding. If you know what a hydro lock is and what it sounds like, no damage should happen if you get one and don't hit the start switch a second time.

I would be more inclined to run carb cleaner through a running bike and ride it, for a year, and then fix issues as they come up, than to rebuild the 6 carbs. Other items I mentioned can come about from improper maintenance by the previous owner or by the unknowledgeable dealership that serviced the bike.

The link to the article works but none of the pictures opened.  I'm going to have to pull that handle bar apart anyway because the throttle cables are seized.  I'll have a look at the switches at that point for lubrication at the very least.  I noticed the turn signal switch is hard to work so all the switches need some love.

I'm not sure whether I mentioned it or not but I believe the PO changed out the petcock somewhere along the line.  I say this because I found a petcock in a plastic bag in one of the saddlebags and it doesn't look new.  I suspect the stock petcock diaphragm failed and he replaced it.  I figure when I have time I'll have a look at it.

Interesting idea to NOT rebuild the carbs immediately.  I'll have to think about that some more.
 Is it possible to pull the carb bowls while the carbs are still mounted?  It'd be nice to avoid that investment of time but I'm concerned about one or more of 6 float valves sticking open.  Add to that the fact of all those 22 year old rubber lines and gasoline having sat in the carbs for an unknown number of years . . . at the very least I'll have to drain the tank and try to get a look inside to see how much rust there is.  It would have been nice if I had brought my cheap Ebay endoscope, it would have made it easy to inspect the tank.

Edited to add:

I just wheeled the garbage out to the curb and on the way back in had a look at the carbs and it's clear I'm NOT going to get the bowls off without pulling the carbs.

 

[Timbo1]

The link to the article works but none of the pictures opened.  I'm going to have to pull that handle bar apart anyway because the throttle cables are seized.  I'll have a look at the switches at that point for lubrication at the very least.  I noticed the turn signal switch is hard to work so all the switches need some love.

I'm not sure whether I mentioned it or not but I believe the PO changed out the petcock somewhere along the line.  I say this because I found a petcock in a plastic bag in one of the saddlebags and it doesn't look new.  I suspect the stock petcock diaphragm failed and he replaced it.  I figure when I have time I'll have a look at it.

Interesting idea to NOT rebuild the carbs immediately.  I'll have to think about that some more.
 Is it possible to pull the carb bowls while the carbs are still mounted?  It'd be nice to avoid that investment of time but I'm concerned about one or more of 6 float valves sticking open.  Add to that the fact of all those 22 year old rubber lines and gasoline having sat in the carbs for an unknown number of years . . . at the very least I'll have to drain the tank and try to get a look inside to see how much rust there is.  It would have been nice if I had brought my cheap Ebay endoscope, it would have made it easy to inspect the tank.

Edited to add:

I just wheeled the garbage out to the curb and on the way back in had a look at the carbs and it's clear I'm NOT going to get the bowls off without pulling the carbs.

 

Many of the links on Shoptalk are not good anymore.  In this case the domain "valhalla-six-guns.com"  where the pictures were sitting on is no longer registered so if you need pics of something just ask.

As to the carbs,  as rusted up as your bike has shown to be I'd say you probably just need to pull them and go through them.  I don' t think my bike was as corroded up as bad as yours and all 6 of my carbs needed rebuilt.  If you want to test it out before tearing into it, it's easy enough to make a gravity feed fuel can from a can or jug.  Plug off your vacuum lines, fill the bowls and see if she fires.  In my case it would only fire off with the fuel enrichment and then it sounded like it was blowing up, popping and banging only hitting on a couple cylinders now and then.

[gordonv]

I did a search for "starter switch repair", and found this one.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
(turns out these pics don't enlarge either 


Since your bike was sitting for 5 years, unless the fuel was turned on and flowing (bad petcock), then there was only that one carb bowl of fuel to dry out. But algee grows in it, till it dries. Expect some plugged ports, but if it runs and drives, I would try Berryman's B-12 (1/2 can to 1/2 tank of fresh fuel) before taking apart my carbs. That might be all the cleaning you need (after a few tries with fuel added cleaner).

I thought others have been able to remove the bowl while on the bike, and replaced the floats.

I've only taken off my carbs, for replacing the intake o-rings against the engine. Also to wire up for a cruise control.

[RustyValkry]

Today I tried to break loose the screw (there was one missing) holding the throttle side control on.  It didn't budge as has been the case for most of the screws I've tried to remove threaded into aluminum.  I'll have to drill the screw head off to remove the control.

I'll pull the tank soon and drain the fuel to see how bad it is.  One reason I decided not to try to pull the bowls while on the bike is because of the dissimilar metals issue with the screws.  It's too likely I'd damage the heads if they're frozen.

[Chrisj CMA]

Today I tried to break loose the screw (there was one missing) holding the throttle side control on.  It didn't budge as has been the case for most of the screws I've tried to remove threaded into aluminum.  I'll have to drill the screw head off to remove the control.

I'll pull the tank soon and drain the fuel to see how bad it is.  One reason I decided not to try to pull the bowls while on the bike is because of the dissimilar metals issue with the screws.  It's too likely I'd damage the heads if they're frozen.

Do you know the trick of tapping on the end of the screwdriver with a hammer a few times before trying the screw?  For these soft screws it does a couple things. Breaks the seal of the dissimilar metal corrosion and mates your driver better to the screw

[Mikerthebiker]

If you some valve grinding compound kicking around (I don’t know why I do), a little dab on your screw driver will give it good grip. I’ve used it on damaged heads with good success.

[RustyValkry]

I have a manual impact driver that I used on it so I was tapping and seating the bit into the screw head at the same time.

I'm afraid any screw into aluminum is going to be frozen to some extent.  On the front calipers I was able to get both those silly pin plugs out (one I had to break loose with a chisel because the slot gave way).  I got the pad pin out of one but not the other and discovered the pistons frozen in the one I got the pad pins out of.

As I mentioned above I'm currently trying to finish up another bike I've been working on so the Valk isn't getting my full attention but I hope to change that in the next day or two.

[Chrisj CMA]

Those pin plugs can be difficult if they weren’t previously treated with anti seize. I ground a special screwdriver to perfectly fit that slot. It’s flat ground like gun tools and people have brought me their bike with a “frozen” plug. And it always breaks loose in seconds. I could have won some bets. Lol

[RustyValkry]

Those pin plugs can be difficult if they weren’t previously treated with anti seize. I ground a special screwdriver to perfectly fit that slot. It’s flat ground like gun tools and people have brought me their bike with a “frozen” plug. And it always breaks loose in seconds. I could have won some bets. Lol

Yea, anti-seize is my friend. 

It's looking like I'll have the other bike off the jack and on the road in the next day or two and then I can focus on the Valk.

[Bret SD]

I have a manual impact driver that I used on it so I was tapping and seating the bit into the screw head at the same time.

I'm afraid any screw into aluminum is going to be frozen to some extent.  On the front calipers I was able to get both those silly pin plugs out (one I had to break loose with a chisel because the slot gave way).  I got the pad pin out of one but not the other and discovered the pistons frozen in the one I got the pad pins out of.

As I mentioned above I'm currently trying to finish up another bike I've been working on so the Valk isn't getting my full attention but I hope to change that in the next day or two.

RustyValkry,  pin plug was frozen on the rear caliper of my Valk when I got it and the brake pads were close to metal on metal. The PO had boogered-up the slot while trying to remove the plug.
I used a Dremel with a pointy bit and put a nice deep slot into it, after that I took a big solid flat blade screwdriver, gave it a couple taps and a twist with maximum forward pressure and she was loose.

[psckam]

Those ghost hangers on the bags are $150.00+

[RustyValkry]

Those ghost hangers on the bags are $150.00+

Yea, I saw that when I found the bags on that website.  I believe, including the bags and ghost hangers, the PO dumped $800 or so bucks into them.  I'm not sure whether the bags are the small rendezvous or the large ones, I keep forgetting to measure them.

[RustyValkry]

I have a manual impact driver that I used on it so I was tapping and seating the bit into the screw head at the same time.

I'm afraid any screw into aluminum is going to be frozen to some extent.  On the front calipers I was able to get both those silly pin plugs out (one I had to break loose with a chisel because the slot gave way).  I got the pad pin out of one but not the other and discovered the pistons frozen in the one I got the pad pins out of.

As I mentioned above I'm currently trying to finish up another bike I've been working on so the Valk isn't getting my full attention but I hope to change that in the next day or two.

RustyValkry,  pin plug was frozen on the rear caliper of my Valk when I got it and the brake pads were close to metal on metal. The PO had boogered-up the slot while trying to remove the plug.
I used a Dremel with a pointy bit and put a nice deep slot into it, after that I took a big solid flat blade screwdriver, gave it a couple taps and a twist with maximum forward pressure and she was loose.

I was thinking about that but I didn't bring my Dremel with me, nor my Burnzamatic nor even a hacksaw.  Fortunately I got it out but I'm NOT putting either of them back in.  I'm thinking I'm going to try to find some kind of socketed plugs.

My problem is the pin itself.  It felt like it was loosening but actually the head was rounding out.  I'm considering alternatives now.  I'm also going to work on the other caliper, the one I was able to get the pin out of.  The pistons are frozen.  If I can't get them broken loose I may just buy used ones off Ebay (assuming they aren't from Florida, LOL) then I won't have to fight with the frozen pin.

[indybobm]

If you look at the pin from the rear of the bike, the pin has enough room between the pads to get vice grips on it. Easy way to bust it loose. You will replace it anyway.

[RustyValkry]

Thanks, I'll have a look at it.

Today I spent some time on the Valk.  I got the gas tank off and discovered . . . it was empty.  Assuming you don't count all the rust I shook out of it as contents. The picture is a small sample of what came out.  I didn't think to shake it over the concrete until I'd gotten more than that out.

I'm thinking some of that is rust from the tank walls and some is just the dried out gas.

[RustyValkry]

Here's a couple pictures of the petcock.  Needless to say the diaphragm is bad.    I mentioned I have another one that I found in one of the saddlebags, I'll have to dig it out and see how it compares to this one.

If there was ever any question about rebuilding the carbs it's gone now.

[RustyValkry]

Well, guess I have a K&N air filter. 

I also noted the hose on the petcock was looking a bit . . . old.  Guess I'll replace all the hoses though doing a desmog will help with that.

Now I have to pick my poison concerning how I'm going to clean the tank.  I was thinking I'd use vinegar but seeing how hard it is to get the rust out I need to find a way to dissolve it so I can rinse it out. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Holy crap ! That is the worst petcock I can ever imagine.  You've got a lot of work ahead of you. From the looks of it, I don't know if you'll ever be able to get all that rust out of the tank. Your air filter lid has been buggered up also.  I've heard nothing but bad reports of that mod. But I've never done it, so maybe not. Good luck on bringing the bike back. 

[Timbo1]

Well, guess I have a K&N air filter. 

I also noted the hose on the petcock was looking a bit . . . old.  Guess I'll replace all the hoses though doing a desmog will help with that.

Now I have to pick my poison concerning how I'm going to clean the tank.  I was thinking I'd use vinegar but seeing how hard it is to get the rust out I need to find a way to dissolve it so I can rinse it out. 

Wow that's surprising your seeing that much rust & debris in the petcock and elsewhere.  Any chance that bike was in a flood?

If you haven't seen this already this guy has some good tips on cleaning & repairing the fuel system from the tank to the carbs.  I think it's like 7 or 8 videos in the series.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITyszhh4XHs&ab_channel=D-RaySmith

[RustyValkry]

Well, guess I have a K&N air filter. 

I also noted the hose on the petcock was looking a bit . . . old.  Guess I'll replace all the hoses though doing a desmog will help with that.

Now I have to pick my poison concerning how I'm going to clean the tank.  I was thinking I'd use vinegar but seeing how hard it is to get the rust out I need to find a way to dissolve it so I can rinse it out. 

Wow that's surprising your seeing that much rust & debris in the petcock and elsewhere.  Any chance that bike was in a flood?

If you haven't seen this already this guy has some good tips on cleaning & repairing the fuel system from the tank to the carbs.  I think it's like 7 or 8 videos in the series.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITyszhh4XHs&ab_channel=D-RaySmith

I found his series on the Valkyrie and bookmarked it.  Thanks.

[Bret SD]

I have a manual impact driver that I used on it so I was tapping and seating the bit into the screw head at the same time.

I'm afraid any screw into aluminum is going to be frozen to some extent.  On the front calipers I was able to get both those silly pin plugs out (one I had to break loose with a chisel because the slot gave way).  I got the pad pin out of one but not the other and discovered the pistons frozen in the one I got the pad pins out of.

As I mentioned above I'm currently trying to finish up another bike I've been working on so the Valk isn't getting my full attention but I hope to change that in the next day or two.

RustyValkry,  pin plug was frozen on the rear caliper of my Valk when I got it and the brake pads were close to metal on metal. The PO had boogered-up the slot while trying to remove the plug.
I used a Dremel with a pointy bit and put a nice deep slot into it, after that I took a big solid flat blade screwdriver, gave it a couple taps and a twist with maximum forward pressure and she was loose.

I was thinking about that but I didn't bring my Dremel with me, nor my Burnzamatic nor even a hacksaw.  Fortunately I got it out but I'm NOT putting either of them back in.  I'm thinking I'm going to try to find some kind of socketed plugs.

My problem is the pin itself.  It felt like it was loosening but actually the head was rounding out.  I'm considering alternatives now.  I'm also going to work on the other caliper, the one I was able to get the pin out of.  The pistons are frozen.  If I can't get them broken loose I may just buy used ones off Ebay (assuming they aren't from Florida, LOL) then I won't have to fight with the frozen pin.

Whoo man! You have your work cut out for you, the more pics I see, the more I think or hope you got the bike for next to nothing. I'm sure it'll be beautiful and a source of pride in the end.

I guess a good thing is you'll have gone through the whole thing from top to bottom and know exactly what you have.. something I can't say yet about mine.

[RustyValkry]

I got the lift adapter from Mark and got it mounted and the bike on the Craftsman jack. 





I got the top of the filter housing off, at least there wasn't any evidence of anything living in there.

[RustyValkry]

Today I got the carbs off.  That was a fiddly job. 

When I brought the bike home I thought the throttle cable(s) were seized but it turns out the linkage on the carbs themselves is what is seized.  I've got to break that loose but I don't want to break down the carb assembly without knowing the engine is sound, we'll see how that goes.

The carbs looked much better inside than I expected.  By the time I got the assembly off it was toward evening and I only had time to take the bowls off 4 of them.  I've included some pictures for your amusement.

[RustyValkry]

[RustyValkry]

Today I worked on the carbs again.  I started by degreasing as much as possible without pulling the carbs off the bracketry.  Then I worked at getting the mixture screws out of the carb bodies.  It was mixed bag.  Three came out relatively easily, 3 were bears.  I succeeded in getting all but one out.  I'm not sure I'm going to be able to get the last one out.  Only thing left to try now is drilling but I'm not optimistic about my chances of pulling that off. 

I also tried to free up the carb shafts, both sides were frozen.  The right side was pretty easy and is working well.  The left side if fighting me tooth and nail and it seems to be the front carb that is sticky.  If I can't get it to free up it will mean pulling them apart which I really don't want to do.

No pictures today, I was up to my wrists in degreaser, PB Blaster, carb cleaner, etc.

[97BLKVALK]

Today I worked on the carbs again.  I started by degreasing as much as possible without pulling the carbs off the bracketry.  Then I worked at getting the mixture screws out of the carb bodies.  It was mixed bag.  Three came out relatively easily, 3 were bears.  I succeeded in getting all but one out.  I'm not sure I'm going to be able to get the last one out.  Only thing left to try now is drilling but I'm not optimistic about my chances of pulling that off. 

I also tried to free up the carb shafts, both sides were frozen.  The right side was pretty easy and is working well.  The left side if fighting me tooth and nail and it seems to be the front carb that is sticky.  If I can't get it to free up it will mean pulling them apart which I really don't want to do.

No pictures today, I was up to my wrists in degreaser, PB Blaster, carb cleaner, etc.

You will definitely need to pull all apart from frame as I'm sure the orings in the fuel rails will be shot.  Definitely enjoying the thread and that I'm not the one doing the nasty work.    Thanks for pictures

Michael

[Jess from VA]

At some point, mechanical repairs merge into archaeology.   

Better you than me brother.   

[RustyValkry]

At some point, mechanical repairs merge into archaeology.   

Better you than me brother.   

Keeps my mind occupied, that's important.  I limit myself to a max of 4 hours on any given day, usually more like 2 or 3 though I may have to step it up so I can determine if I have a viable bike.  Frozen threaded fasteners is really throwing a wrench in the gears.

[Jess from VA]

Rusty, my post was just humor. 

I give any man cudos for resurrecting any motorcycle, or anything really.

I simply lack the skills or patience to do that work, and am actually jealous.

Carry on sir.   

[Led]

Rusty, my post was just humor.  

I give any man cudos for resurrecting any motorcycle, or anything really.

I simply lack the skills or patience to do that work, and am actually jealous.

Carry on sir.  

I agree......and yes.....I probably would end up with the bottle also.  

That is how these projects GO!   The more you dig, the deeper into the "Rabbit hole" you go........

Great work Rusty!!!!!   CARRY ON!!   

[The emperor has no clothes]

At some point, mechanical repairs merge into archaeology.   

Better you than me brother.   

Keeps my mind occupied, that's important.  I limit myself to a max of 4 hours on any given day, usually more like 2 or 3 though I may have to step it up so I can determine if I have a viable bike.  Frozen threaded fasteners is really throwing a wrench in the gears.

If it does end up being not viable. (Personally, it looks that way to me) You still have a lot of valuable stuff. If the rear end isn't boogered up there will be plenty of buyers. Along with a lot of other stuff. 

[Led]

I believe Rusty can ride it one day.   Sure.....a lot of work.  But He has gone THIS far!   

Don't part it out,  until you have accomplished your goal.....

NOT many would have already invested this much time already.   So, NO looking back now!

We are SUPER interested, if you can get this gorgeous machine running again!

And we are LEARNING a lot!

[RustyValkry]

The bike is not non-viable unless/until I prove the engine or tranny is severely damaged.  What I'm doing now is busy work and is only discouraging because of the little issues I'm running into, like ONE mixture screw that refuses to back out.  It may ultimately result in having to find a used carb, just one.  I really wanted to be able to clean up the carbs and stick them back in to start the engine (without doing anything to the tank, just use a bottle of gas) to determine it's condition but it's looking like I may have to pull the carb assembly completely apart which complicates the process but only changes the cost to the extent of that carb purchase. 

And, of course, doing a lot of work on a bike or car makes my sciatica kick up which is part of the process.  There's just nothing more fun than that jolt of pain shooting down your leg. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

The bike is not non-viable unless/until I prove the engine or tranny is severely damaged.  What I'm doing now is busy work and is only discouraging because of the little issues I'm running into, like ONE mixture screw that refuses to back out.  It may ultimately result in having to find a used carb, just one.  I really wanted to be able to clean up the carbs and stick them back in to start the engine (without doing anything to the tank, just use a bottle of gas) to determine it's condition but it's looking like I may have to pull the carb assembly completely apart which complicates the process but only changes the cost to the extent of that carb purchase. 

And, of course, doing a lot of work on a bike or car makes my sciatica kick up which is part of the process.  There's just nothing more fun than that jolt of pain shooting down your leg. 

I've never used them but those ultrasonic cleaners are supposed to work really good on carbs. Maybe that would free up that one carb. I think it's a given that you are going to have to take apart the carbs for o-ring replacement.