right side pipe cool

[VMODON]

thought I had carb issue after sitting for about 5 months. Ran Berrymans ect no help, then realize that right exhaust pipe pushing cool air, and left hot, so right side engine not firing. ran fine when parked, any help would be great, Thanks

[Steel cowboy]

Run an entire can in a tank full, keep it at 3000+ RPM’s. Stay in 4th gear to keep the rpms up. If that doesn’t help, carb job is unavoidable.

[pancho]

Your thughts are right. You have carb issues. I would pull them and clean them up, but you may get them to clear by continuing to run high concentrations of B12 through the system.

[Hook#3287]

If all three right cylinders are not firing, you may have a fuel delivery issue.

[Bagger John - #3785]

If all three right cylinders are not firing, you may have a fuel delivery issue.

+1

[gordonv]

If all three right cylinders are not firing, you may have a fuel delivery issue.

+1

All 3 on one side, unsure. But if as suggested a fuel delivery problem, then use the bowl drains and remove to confirm if fuel is in the bowl.

I would think if it is truly cold on one side, wouldn't it be one ignition pick-up has failed? I would check for spark first on that side.

[Bagger John - #3785]

If all three right cylinders are not firing, you may have a fuel delivery issue.

+1

All 3 on one side, unsure. But if as suggested a fuel delivery problem, then use the bowl drains and remove to confirm if fuel is in the bowl.

I would think if it is truly cold on one side, wouldn't it be one ignition pick-up has failed? I would check for spark first on that side.

Does the right exhaust smell strongly like gas (unburnt)?

[VMODON]

would ignition pickup be called something else in the manual? I don't find it. thought it might be due to old battery, but put new in this morning, same issue. while running, right exhaust pipe pushing cold air, should I be able to get a good nose full of gas fumes, if problem is ignition and not lack of fuel. thanks for the input in advance

[VMODON]

just saw your last post Bagger John. No strong gas smell, only very faint. what would stop flow to the right side??

[Bagger John - #3785]

just saw your last post Bagger John. No strong gas smell, only very faint. what would stop flow to the right side??

Vapor lock (air bubble) in the line, or a solid obstruction in the line. As others suggested, open the drain screws on the three right side carbs and see if you get anything from them out of the drain tube.

[gordonv]

would ignition pickup be called something else in the manual?

30300-MZ0-003 IGNITION PULSE GENERATOR ASSY.

in with the timing belt in the parts fiche.

Service manual, unsure where to find it, but i would start where the timing belt is too.

But it is sounding more like no fuel. Checked for spark yet too?

[VMODON]

must be idle jets plugged, when revving up to high rpm, pipes heat up, will have to take a stab at removing 3 carbs to clean the up, thanks for all the help.

[pancho]

Before jumping all in, you may want to try what Steel cowboy suggested if you have an aversion to carb work, sometimes they will clear, but it is a long process until they are perfectly clean. I would bite the bullet and just get into it.

[Chrisj CMA]

must be idle jets plugged, when revving up to high rpm, pipes heat up, will have to take a stab at removing 3 carbs to clean the up, thanks for all the help.

All six come out at once. It’s impractical to try and remove one side only 

[Mooskee]

The greatest probability is plugged slow jets, and possibly pilots.

NOT coils because 1&2, fire from same coil at same time.
same is true for 3&4 , and 5&6.

No reason to jump on pick up coils or other more infrequent solutions first. Not that it is impossible for that to be the problem, it is improbable.

What changed is the bike sat. It is common for the carbs to plug up in that situation, especially with ethanol fuel.

You indicated that at higher rpm the pipes are getting warm. That indicates that the ignition circuits are working and that you are getting up in RPM enough to come up on the main jets. So it is a fuel delivery problem isolated to the pilot and slow circuits on 3 of the cylinders.

I have seen this using a Gunson Colortune plug where at idle I only see the spark plug spark, no combustion. Increase RPM and see combustion. Clean the slow jets and the pilot screw passage and she runs again.

You might get lucky and be able to clean it with additives, but you likely need to pull the carb bank and at a minimum clean the slow jets and pilot screw passages.

You can download the free manual to see how to remove the carb bank. As has been mentioned, all 6 carbs come out as an assembly.  It is not hard, but is a bit involved. If you follow the manual, you can do it.

If you need help feel free to PM me or ask on here. There is a lot of experience here, and we are willing to help.

[VMODON]

thanks again to all, I have the Clymer manual to try to help me thru it all. Somewhere in the garage is the desmog kit I bought 15 years ago, if I was to try that too, is there rejetting involved?

[gordonv]

Honda Service manual - get it, it's our best universal source. I also carry a paper copy when it was available inexpensively.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

There is also youtube posts on the carb work. Look up Valkyrie carb.

You only want to do this once, so look up ultra sonic cleaners and which chemical to use in it. The biggest issue I constantly read after a clean, is 1 or more carbs are still not working.

One reason why I always recommend B-12 in heavy doses for 1-3 cans, and a lot of riding, first. It's a lot easier and more fun. Usually like yours, the problem is in idle. Once I leave my home, I and almost never in idle again, till it's time to refuel or stop for a while. I also make a point of buying Chevron fuel.

[Mooskee]

thanks again to all, I have the Clymer manual to try to help me thru it all. Somewhere in the garage is the desmog kit I bought 15 years ago, if I was to try that too, is there rejetting involved?

Desmog does not require rejetting.

[Bret SD]

Honda Service manual - get it, it's our best universal source. I also carry a paper copy when it was available inexpensively.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

There is also youtube posts on the carb work. Look up Valkyrie carb.

You only want to do this once, so look up ultra sonic cleaners and which chemical to use in it. The biggest issue I constantly read after a clean, is 1 or more carbs are still not working.

One reason why I always recommend B-12 in heavy doses for 1-3 cans, and a lot of riding, first. It's a lot easier and more fun. Usually like yours, the problem is in idle. Once I leave my home, I and almost never in idle again, till it's time to refuel or stop for a while. I also make a point of buying Chevron fuel.

New jets aren't all that pricey, I consider them cheap insurance to not have to do the same job twice. Cleaning can miss the mark and leave you very unhappy after all is back together and it's still not right.

Just my two pennies, worth exactly what you paid for it

[Madmike]

If you start the bike from cold and check the header pipes right where they connect to the individual cylinders do it right away after you start the bike and you can check it with your fingers before it warms up, this will help identify which cylinder(s) are not firing.


Is the bike on a side stand or center stand??  If it is on a side stand the right bank is much higher than the left and so if there is inadequate fuel going to the carbs it will show up at the right bank.  If you aren't getting fuel at the right bank while on a side stand you could get someone to stand the bike up and hold it upright while you check the right side bowl drain screws.  There is a drain screw on the bottom of the bowl, the screw faces out, easy to get to with a long screwdriver.  I like to drain enough to clean any loose contaminants out of teh bottom of the bowl and to drop the float so that fresh gas washes the needle valve seat.

This bike (if stock configuration) has a fuel petcock that has a manual selection for off/on/reserve but will only flow fuel if the engine is cranking or running as the petcock has a small vacuum-actuated valve inside of it that opens under vacuum and closes when there is no vacuum.  Because of this inadequate fuel can be an indication of a problem with the vacuum line to the petcock or with the petcock diaphragm itself.  Both these things can be checked with a "Mity-Vac" style hand pump or a chunk of vacuum line and your lips and tongue if necessary.  Problems with both these components (the vacuum line and petcock not your lips and tongue) are well documented in this forum, if you use the search function you can find lots of stuff.  This is less likely but worth noting when going through the system.

If you decide to do the carbs you can get parts kits from Red-Eye, they have seals and gaskets.  Or you can get a rebuild kit from All-Balls, their kit has some of the jets and hard parts that are not in the Red-Eye kit.

https://www.allballsracing.com/26-1629.html

https://redeye.ecrater.com/

If you do the carbs yourself you may want to consider buying an ultrasonic cleaner.

If you need to remove carbs you need to take out all 6 as a cluster.  You can remove float bowls on the bike and get to the jets if you have patience and some basic knowledge.  The bowl screws tend to be soft and the gaskets can be finicky.