97 Valk Idle climbs progressively to 3k after riding for awhile

[HappyTrails]

Hello folks, this is my first post on this forum,  hoping I can get some help with my new valk.

Shes A 97, got it about 2 weeks ago, 40k miles.

When  I got it, it wouldn't run without and hardly with choke.
So a 9 hour weekend later of cleaning carbs and everything you can remove easily (lackluster maybe on idler circuit venturies) other then spraying the carb down with carb cleaner, and letting soak a little In it assembly went well.


Till I was stuck at work after fuel petcock failed. Needless to say got it replaced and now it works fine but wanted to give history.

After, we thought we would check vacuum to the petcock, and we had a vacumn puller hooked up to the petcock with fuel on for a good half hour.  I came out to garage and my dad pulled the intakes on that side to put new o rings on whilst I did the left and noticed cylinder 5 was full of fuel, intake valve was holding it out of the cylinder.

So we think the gun held the petcock open too long amd the needle failed to seal.

So pulled the cylinder 5 bowl while it was still on the bike
And the needle looked fine as did the float but haven't had an issue since.

Now, when we did the vacumn test the needles settled down at about 3k rpm but never really paused them. Was still a 1/4" of bounce.

New spark plugs btw*

Anywho ths is all background info for me problem,

Idle is around 900+-100 as it should be, but after riding for 20min or so idle progressively climbs to 2k the 3k. When I pull in on the clutch the idle shoots back up to 2k or 3k

Clutch is fully off.

Not sure what to do next?

I have hear the fuel enrichment deal can stick, what exactly is this doing and would it cause progressive engine idle acceleration?

[Chrisj CMA]

It should not idle at 900-1000 cold. If it does, your idle is set too high. My 97 won’t stay running for the first few seconds without a bit if throttle or choke. After 30 seconds or so it will idle without choke but at maybe 500 tops. After a minute or so it Idles smoothly without choke but still under 900 until a few miles. Hope that helps

[Bagger John - #3785]

It should not idle at 900-1000 cold. If it does, your idle is set too high. My 97 won’t stay running for the first few seconds without a bit if throttle or choke. After 30 seconds or so it will idle without choke but at maybe 500 tops. After a minute or so it Idles smoothly without choke but still under 900 until a few miles. Hope that helps

+1

[HappyTrails]

It should not idle at 900-1000 cold. If it does, your idle is set too high. My 97 won’t stay running for the first few seconds without a bit if throttle or choke. After 30 seconds or so it will idle without choke but at maybe 500 tops. After a minute or so it Idles smoothly without choke but still under 900 until a few miles. Hope that helps

And it idles fine. But after about 10min while rising idle speed climbs to 2k then after awhile to 3k when I pull the clutch in.

Any ideas?

Ty!

[Ramie]

Make sure your choke isn't sticking.

[Chrisj CMA]

It should not idle at 900-1000 cold. If it does, your idle is set too high. My 97 won’t stay running for the first few seconds without a bit if throttle or choke. After 30 seconds or so it will idle without choke but at maybe 500 tops. After a minute or so it Idles smoothly without choke but still under 900 until a few miles. Hope that helps

And it idles fine. But after about 10min while rising idle speed climbs to 2k then after awhile to 3k when I pull the clutch in.

Any ideas?

Ty!

Turn the idle screw down to 1000 when it’s at full operating temperature

[HappyTrails]

Thanks,  tried that today after I got to that 3k rpm mark after about 30 min or so, and she held good nearly the rest of the 40 min

I am also at altitude (Colorado) and have not yet adjusted

[Jess from VA]

While adjusting the idle while the bike is hot is best, it's easy to burn your hand/fingers.  I suppose a tool is a good idea.  Sometimes that little idle adjustment wheel between the intakes is easy to move and sometimes it's not.

When I've noted I'm a little high or low on idle, after the bike is cold (and off), I make a small adjustment with my fingers, then see how I did next time I ride.  I usually get it right in one or two tries.  And with no burned fingers.

The manual says set RPM warm idle to 900.  The bike may not be fully charging at 900 (esp with old alternators) so some aim for 1000 to ensure charging.  It's no big deal, esp if you rarely have to sit at idle in traffic. 

[Bagger John - #3785]

The manual says set RPM warm idle to 900.  The bike may not be fully charging at 900 (esp with old alternators) so some aim for 1000 to ensure charging.  It's no big deal, esp if you rarely have to sit at idle in traffic. 

There were some who advised setting it to 500RPM so the engine would have that "...lopey big block sound...".

It didn't go over very well when I pointed out not only the charging issue but potential oil starvation arising from inadequate pump pressure at that low of an idle.

Mine are both set to 950-1000RPM. I also have oil pressure gauges and voltmeters on both to verify parameters at idle and above.

[HappyTrails]

Interesting

[HappyTrails]

While adjusting the idle while the bike is hot is best, it's easy to burn your hand/fingers.  I suppose a tool is a good idea.  Sometimes that little idle adjustment wheel between the intakes is easy to move and sometimes it's not.

When I've noted I'm a little high or low on idle, after the bike is cold (and off), I make a small adjustment with my fingers, then see how I did next time I ride.  I usually get it right in one or two tries.  And with no burned fingers.

The manual says set RPM warm idle to 900.  The bike may not be fully charging at 900 (esp with old alternators) so some aim for 1000 to ensure charging.  It's no big deal, esp if you rarely have to sit at idle in traffic. 

Thank you!

[John Schmidt]

Don't need a tool to adjust the idle, just slip a screw driver in alongside the intake. Doing that allows you to push one of the extrusions on the knob either direction. I sometimes will use two screw drivers together if the knob is hard to turn.

[HappyTrails]

I have found that to be a little harder since I have air wings on mine and it can be stiff at times

[Jess from VA]

Mine was too stiff to turn with a screw driver.  I really couldn't get it to move (or get good purchase) with long needle-nose either.  And I didn't want to break the plastic wheel.

I always hesitated to spray some lube on it for fear it might start moving on it's own (like the choke cable will, never lube that thing), but I did anyway (a little bit), and it helped moving quite a bit. 

Knowing you are high or low, then making small adjustments when the bike is off and cold works, after a try or two.  With fingers.

[RonW]

I always hesitated to spray some lube on it for fear it might start moving on it's own (like the choke cable will, never lube that thing), but I did anyway (a little bit), and it helped moving quite a bit. 

copy that. didn't know that.

[Jess from VA]

If you get the choke cable all greasy-luby, it won't stay on without your thumb on it.  It immediately drops down to where it looks like it's on (by the lever), but it's not on at all.    

The linkage might be lubed a little, but not the cable.

[HappyTrails]

If you get the choke cable all greasy-luby, it won't stay on without your thumb on it.  It immediately drops down to where it looks like it's on (by the lever), but it's not on at all.    

The linkage might be lubed a little, but not the cable.

Great to know, maybe that's the problem with my dad's other bike a kawasaki vulcan 1500.