Pilot Screw Adjustment

[RLD]

What kind of tach would you use that accurately shows 50 rpm increments as required by the service manual? I'm assuming a shop type but have never had to buy anything like this. I've already set the carbs to 2.25 turns out. They were set from 2.25 to 3.5 from the dealer who rebuilt them, now I'm going to go in and do it proper.

[Joe Hummer]

I wouldn't worry about dead nuts on what the manual said.  Get it close with the installed tach and call it good to go.

Joe

[Patrick]

Trust me [famous last words heh].. I've tried this everyway possible and have the burnt fingers to prove it.. Got 35 jets?? Then set 'em at 2.25 turns and go ride it.. Be real careful when seating them though, its easy to #$@^ up the seats.. When I remove them I cut a slot in them so I can get at them easier.. Going to adjust/sync the carburetors when done?? All I use is a 'plain old vanilla' vacuum gauge with a bunch of tubing, one plastic T fitting, golf T's  and forceps.. Its quick, easy, accurate and had all the 'stuff ' on hand..I've tried the other methods as well,, I'll stick with the old gauge.. Actually, it sounds to me as though the previous person tried setting the pilots with a tach..

[Ricky-D]

There's no reason to think the bike tach would not be adequate.

The biggest problem would be encountered from a bad/poor battery.

The fan clicking off and on is another problem roosted in the same coop.

You can't do a good accurate job when the electric supply is doing the limbo.

***

[Wildman]

The bike tach is not precise, accrate/stable enough for a good Honda Manual piolt screw adjustment IMO. This procedure will make it run a little lean, it's for emissions testing.
The fuel mixture screw settings you are using are not sock (2.25 turns out is richer than stock).
If you set the valves clearances, set the number of piolt screw turns uniformly, and sync. the carbs.
That should do it as far as running it's best.
The richer piolt setting is suppose to give better throttle response.
I set mine at factory settings because I'm trying to squease all the miles possible out of the gas.

If you find a tach that works well and produces better results I'll be supprised.
The Sears Best tach has a nice digital display, but unless you are running perfectly smooth (no variation in RPM) you'll have to keep some kind of running average in your head. Even with the digital display it was not worth the time and effort.  For me

What are looking for out of the adjustment ?

If you haven't tried the color tune yet. I would not bother trying that one either. It's very hard to see the color.

[Dag]

I use a digital Automotive Meter.
I can hook it up and show you how it works. http://valkyrienorway.com/webcam/garage.html
Will be in the garage a couple of hours.
The price is $600,00 in Norway, I belive you can get it for half the price in US.



Digital Multimeter
For 2 -, 3 -, 4 -, 5 -, 6 - and 8-cylinder engines.
RPM: 600-12000 rpm (two-stroke), 300-6000 rpm (stroke)
Camshaft angle: 0-180 ° (2-cylinder), 0-120 ° (3-cylinder), 0-90 ° (4-cylinder), 0-72 ° (5-cylinder), 0-60 ° (6-cylinder ), 0-45 ° (8-cylinder)
voltage, DCV: 0-32 mV/0-3 .2-32-320-1000 V
DC, DCA: 0-320-3200 μA/0-32-320 mA/0-10 A
Resistance, OHM: 0-320 W/0-3 .2 to 32 kW/0-3 .2 to 32 mW
Frequency: 0-320-3200 Hz/0-32 kHz
Temperature: -20 to 750 ° C

[Ricky-D]

Dag, that is a very expensive meter!!!!

 

[Dag]

SORRY

NOK 600,00  =  $100,00   

[Robert]

NO tach will do the job accurately so just listen and if you do use a tach its really takes a little while for the cylinder that you are adjusting to react if you are pretty close to a good adjustment. I have a Fluke meter and it cost 500.00 similar to Dags and it still doesn't react well. Its really not the fault of the meter but the way the bike is set up that's the problem. Sometimes you wont even get a change in the rpm but a change in the pitch or smoothness that will alert you to a correct adjustment.