I need a new front tire.

[Jess from VA]

I used to run the Metzler ME880 and when that disappeared, the ME888.

Now the ME888 has disappeared in our size.

Next up, the new Metzler Cruisetec.

(right click, hit view image)


A good match with the rear.

[NewValker]

I need a front tire before IZ 25, couldn’t find an Avon Chrome anywhere and no back in stock date, so I’m trying a Bridgestone Excedra this time.
The Avon on now will make it to W.V. But not back home…

Craig

[h13man]

Bridgestone Exedra R701F 150/80R-17 is about the only consistent tire available. I'm on my 2nd. set Exedra w/o issues especially in colder temps. 1st. front Exedra w/o beads, 15,000 mi. My old AV71 Cobra had 23,000 before replacement running beads.

I haven't used the Exedra Max on the Valk  as I'm a little wary of it might be a harder compound. I put a set on the 1600 Vulcan w/o issue but it was warmer weather when I rode it before I sold it.

The Shinko 890 has the look at $62 less. Throw some balance beads in it and see what mileage you get. 

https://www.americanmototire.com/search-results/?q=150%2F80-17

[Pluggy]

Bridgestone Exedra R701F 150/80R-17 is about the only consistent tire available. I'm on my 2nd. set Exedra w/o issues especially in colder temps. 1st. front Exedra w/o beads, 15,000 mi. My old AV71 Cobra had 23,000 before replacement running beads.

I haven't used the Exedra Max on the Valk  as I'm a little wary of it might be a harder compound. I put a set on the 1600 Vulcan w/o issue but it was warmer weather when I rode it before I sold it.

The Shinko 890 has the look at $62 less. Throw some balance beads in it and see what mileage you get.  

https://www.americanmototire.com/search-results/?q=150%2F80-17

I just installed a second Exedra Max 180/70R16.  The tread pattern is different than the old Exedra but the handling and milage has been the same.  On the road, I can't tell any difference.  Both Exedra and Max have been trouble-free.

[Jess from VA]

I don't get great mileage on Metzler front tires, but I get great grip and handling in all weather (wet).

PS:  Like everything else, tire prices are up. 

[F6Dave]

Rocky Mountain ATV/MC has Bridgestone, Dunlop, and Shinko front tires in stock. Dennis Kirk has about the same. Both have great prices and arrive in a few days.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/motorcycle-tires?v=1999-HONDA-Valkyrie-Interstate-GL15CFX

[old2soon]

    I've had pretty good outcomes while runnin the Shinko tires. The Absolute Best I'd ever run was that Metzler 880. Wet dry carving touring it did weel Except in one area. Miles to worn out!  Bit over 10G before the Metz was toasted!  The Shinko I M O was a Very CLOSE 2nd! I mean less than 3/1000ths of a second! Yup THAT close.  And while Not the exact sizing for our Fat Ladies Shinko had the Closest to size needed in White Wall at a Decent price. There Is a new/newer Shinko W/W on the front of the 88 G/W trike I have. RIDE SAFE.

[Rams]

Discovered a couple days ago that I now need three new batteries for my girls.   All three have been starting just fine and now none will turn over or start.   I'm baffled.   No keys were left on and they all started just last week and ran for a while.  Two of the three had battery maintainers on them.  I'm so confused.  

It is, what it is.  

Rams

[scooperhsd]

Batteries today don't last as long as even 5 years ago. Automotive, motorcycle /powersports / lawn equipment - They're all affected.

[Pluggy]

Discovered a couple days ago that I now need three new batteries for my girls.   All three have been starting just fine and now none will turn over or start.   I'm baffled.   No keys were left on and they all started just last week and ran for a while.  Two of the three had battery maintainers on them.  I'm so confused.  

It is, what it is.  

Rams

Rams, for starters (no pun intended), buy just one battery to determine that a new battery will fix each bike.  You will get plenty of free advice as to which one to buy.  I prefer AGM.  

[Hook#3287]

Batteries today don't last as long as even 5 years ago. Automotive, motorcycle /powersports / lawn equipment - They're all affected.

Can you imagine the battery manufacturer boardroom discussions when the Obama Administration messed with battery manufacturing.

"What are they doing? Batteries will only last a couple years and everyone will have to buy new ones! Um, wait. Everyone will have to buy new every couple years? That's terrible! "

[Jess from VA]

Discovered a couple days ago that I now need three new batteries for my girls.   All three have been starting just fine and now none will turn over or start.   I'm baffled.   No keys were left on and they all started just last week and ran for a while.  Two of the three had battery maintainers on them.

That is perplexing (cold snap?).  How old are they?

My bikes sit on Battery Tender Jr's 24/7 when not riding, for years, and I only ever see the red led (charging light) come on for a minute or two from time to time.  I wire their pigtail to the battery and tie it to the frame and keep the tenders plugged in the bike shed, so when I roll in, I just turn off the gas, and plug in the Tender.  And I always check for the green LED before riding.  A red LED would be a big warning.

And as long as I've run them at least occasionally, they usually fire up instantly (on choke).  If one sits for months, it may take a bit longer (gas problem, not battery).

My longest lasting YUASA went 11 years.  But pushing one that far is a mistake for several reasons.  The principle reason is that eventually it will just die hard out of the blue, and wherever your are, there you stay.  

I write the date of new battery in my bike long book, but also write it right on the battery in magic marker (reminder).  So now when a bike starts consistently taking a bit of cranking to fire, instead of instantly, I go ahead and change the battery (about 7-8 years).  Which I always keep a new spare on hand with acid on the side, so they can sit indoors for years before still being brand new when needed.

The one in my bike with the low beam electrical problem I've been working on is "2017" and still has instant fire up.  

[old2soon]

     Ron I don't know the ages of yer Ladies. My 12 G/W has puters that drag the battery down!  The 88 G/W on the other hand does NOT draw down as fast as the 12 and I'm thinkin from what little I know bout both G/Ws the batteries are sorta close on the install dates. For all 3 to go bad at close to the same time?  Have you had a run of bad karma lately? Threatened yer Girls with buyin a V twinky?  How close are the install dates on the 3 batteries? I'm like 99.44% Certain the 12 G/W Will have a dead battery when I get back home next week. The 88 G/W while I have my doubts may surprise me!  How ever it goes it are what it iz!  And right after I left we had a cold snap and a dang good dump of snow in SoMo. Ron Please let us here know what ya find out bout this incident. RIDE SAFE.

[semo97]

i found out leaving bike on side stand for long time can dry out part of the battery that is on the high side.
Does not take much to weaken the cells and will not recharge.

[Jess from VA]

i found out leaving bike on side stand for long time can dry out part of the battery that is on the high side.
Does not take much to weaken the cells and will not recharge.

I don't think I've ever heard that, and it's interesting.

Because I keep two big Interstates in a 10 X 12 shed, I lean one the on the wall nearly level, and always shim up the kickstand on the other, also nearly level (for space, and so I can get in my standing tool chest).  So this may contribute to my longstanding battery life. 

The sealed Yuasa batteries really aren't sealed, the caps can be pried up to add acid or distilled water.  (I never have, but I could.)

[3fan4life]

The Shinko 230 Tourmaster has long been my go to for a front tire on the Valks.

I have zero complaints about the tire.

I don't run a car tire, but I did ride a Valk from VA to TX with a car tire on the back and the Shinko on the front.

I couldn't tell any difference in the front of the bike.

[Jess from VA]

It's my thread, so I can drift it if I want.    

The job for today was to swap out those high draw Hella 80/100 bulbs in the other bike.

But then rain is coming tomorrow, and my back door half submerged basement (6 step) walkout is leaking water down between the concrete block walkout wall and the adjacent sidewalk (again).  I inherited this problem when I got the house 35 years ago, and I've managed to seal it up many times, but only for 3-5 years each time.  The proper permanent fix might run me $15K (complete tear-out and rebuild by pros).

So lets see, would I rather change light bulbs in an Interstate fairing, or dig out all the old concrete and sealer, and fix it with Quikcrete concrete mix?  I hate doing those bulbs in the fairing so much, I spent the better part of the day doing concrete foundation repair instead.  

That Quikcrete once mixed has to be used in 5 minutes, so I had to mix multiple small batches, as it takes time to do a good job of pushing it down between the wall and sidewalk and smoothing it out for a good seal.  I've done it enough times, today I did a better job than ever before.  And I should have a full 24hr cure before tomorrow's rain.

And then, because it was so warm, I gave myself a haircut.  Haven't been to a barber in 20 years or more, and always do it shirtless outside the bike shed doors.  Not like I have long shaggy hair, but it was too shaggy for my liking after a Winter of no cutting out in the cold.    

Screw those fairing bulbs.  For now.

Next day Edit:  Yay, success.     Raining like cats and dogs (1-2 inches predicted) and the water is pooling up out there, but my concrete seal job is cured and no water is getting in at all.

I'm going to have to do a better job of maintaining it. Too much water over time and that waist high retaining wall could come crashing in and I'd be stuck with a full tear out and rebuild for big money.

      

[h13man]

I'm curious, how much is the motor heat a factor when stopped on the Interstate models? The reason I ask, I don't have an issue with just the windshield though I get slight buffeting over 60 mph while riding. [Revised] When I add my custom made lowers, they work like a charm at higher speed but at lower speeds, fry baby especially when the fan kicks on which is rare. Definitely a cooler weather option.

[Jess from VA]

I'm curious, how much is the motor heat a factor when stopped on the Interstate models? The reason I ask, I don't have an issue with just the windshield though I get slight buffeting over 60 mph while riding. When I add my custom made lowers, they work like a charm at speed but at a stop, fry baby especially when the fan kicks on which is rare. Definitely a cooler weather option.

I'm not sure there's great deal of difference in engine temps between interstates and std/tourers (all the same radiators/fans). 

Although they did add the lower pods to interstates to assist in directing air to the radiator, so maybe there is (but those pods only do anything while underway, not sitting).   

Whenever I'm sitting in traffic and the fan comes on (pretty rare, and mostly on very hot days), I turn the bike off right away until I can move again.

[GiG]

*******”Whenever I'm sitting in traffic and the fan comes on (pretty rare, and mostly on very hot days), I turn the bike off right away until I can move again

Probably a bad move- Could promote overheating/ boil over.
Fan is in place for a reason: to move heat around!!!
What I do when fan comes on & I dismount. - Turn Engine OFF, then… Turn IGN Switch ON, Allowing Fan to do its job

[Jess from VA]

I've heard and read that before Gig, but I shut it down the instant the fan comes on (not after running awhile), and I've never had one problem or boil over.  It has only happened a handful of times anyway, and if it's clear I'm going to be sitting awhile, I shut it down right away before the fan ever comes on.  

The fan's popped on more often in the driveway while working on the bike, than riding it.  

[GiG]

Sounds like the stupid engineers designed and built a useless cooling system, just to add costs 

[Cracker Jack]

Sounds like the stupid engineers designed and built a useless cooling system, just to add costs  

Don't sound right to me! The cooling system is designed to COOL THE ENGINE! In order to do that, the water pump (engine) needs to be running to circulate the water so the hot water in the engine is moved from the engine to the radiator to be cooled by the fan and the cooled water from the radiator moved into the engine to cool it.

If you turn the engine off, little to no circulation and the fan only cools the radiator. You've disabled the cooling system!

The system was designed for the engine to continue running while the fan is on providing the needed cool down. If my fan comes on, I make sure the engine continues to run until the fan goes off. Usually less than a minute.

[Jess from VA]

Boy, on a hot day, if I am running and not moving at all and the fan comes on, it never goes off (and I have a good clean and serviced system and good coolant).

If you turn the bike off the fan stops.

[GiG]

 :crazy2:Right on, Jack   I was being a smartass  
Jess should  probably just  tear all that  obviously unneeded cooling dead weight off his miraculously physics impervious ride &  i  am willing to wager it HAS seen thermal related events ! Just check the coolant overflow jugs!!!

Can also wire that Uber annoying fan backwards & make the engine run hotter   

CHEERS

[henry 008]

I've come home after a long ride and parked the bike, got off and starting taking my gear off and the fan would come on for a min or so even tho the engine and ign switch were off. 

[Jess from VA]

I've come home after a long ride and parked the bike, got off and starting taking my gear off and the fan would come on for a min or so even tho the engine and ign switch were off. 

That ain't right.  Gremlin. 

Though I'm not sure if that can happen if the key is turned back to 'accessory' instead of 'off' by accident. 

[Jess from VA]

Well the winter cabin fever is driving me crazy.

I've been going out in the cold and wind looking for things to do, and get me out of the house.

Yesterday, I changed out the hi-draw bulbs in my other interstate.  I'm getting a little better at it; it only took me an hour and a half instead of two hours.  I really HATE that job!!  My small hands should make it easier, but short fingers make working by feel up under there very difficult.  Each time I finally get one out and a new one back in (spring clip, boot, then plug), it's like some kind of miracle.  Changed the oil and filter too, no problem.  Discovered the brake pedal switch was not lighting up my brake lights, so I got that working as well.

Today, I rolled out the bike with the fried low beam relay (or something), and washed and polished it.  It hit 50 and I really wanted to get a short ride in, but it's blowing and gusting like crazy with COLD wind chill.  Warmer weather is coming, maybe tomorrow, and after that for certain (at least for a while).

Back in the house.  UGH.