Garage Floor Sealant/Paint Questions

[Rams]

My shop is finally going up next week (if all goes as planned).   Getting the concrete completed was its own challenge but, that's done finally.

Researching the different floor sealants that are out there.   I like what I'm reading about the Epoxy based versions but every brand I read about has customer reviews with both good and bad things to say.  It seems the "Industrial" versions are more of what I want although they are significantly more expensive.   But, you only get this opportunity to do it right one time, the first time and I want this to go well.   I will be applying the surface coat myself.   Prefer a clear version but, a colored version won't bother me, I want a chemical protective barrier that does provide some light reflective results.

I'm looking for a brand/version with chemical protections, not just moisture barriers.   My concrete contractor recommended a product called Eagle floor coverings but, it's only a moisture barrier.  

Recommendations with comments would be greatly appreciated.

Edited:  My Fat Ladies (along with a few other toys and projects) will be resting on this surface so, it is Valkyrie related. 
Rams

[Jersey mike]

I thought urethane sealers were the top of the line for residential and light/medium commercial applications.

Look into the concrete’s cure time needed for your application…how long does the concrete need to cure for before sealing it.

For some reason 30 days for urethane comes to mind but that could have changed over the years with new formulas.

[Rams]

I thought urethane sealers were the top of the line for residential and light/medium commercial applications.

Look into the concrete’s cure time needed for your application…how long does the concrete need to cure for before sealing it.

For some reason 30 days for urethane comes to mind but that could have changed over the years with new formulas.

My concrete foundation and stem walls have been there for about a year, the slab/floor was completed about six weeks ago.   Fired the first contractor due to him wanting to cheat, didn't want to follow code and other issues.  My experience with concrete goes back many decades so I'm confident in the end result of my project.   It's all 4K PSI concrete with steel reinforcement (both wire and rebar) 4 full inches throughout with the area where I intend to install a two post lift six inches thick.   Curing time for the slab and floor covering/barrier should not be an issue at this point.   Thanks for the response.

Will check out the urethane option.  

Rams

[Jersey mike]

I thought urethane sealers were the top of the line for residential and light/medium commercial applications.

Look into the concrete’s cure time needed for your application…how long does the concrete need to cure for before sealing it.

For some reason 30 days for urethane comes to mind but that could have changed over the years with new formulas.

My concrete foundation and stem walls have been there for about a year, the slab/floor was completed about six weeks ago.   Fired the first contractor due to him wanting to cheat, didn't want to follow code and other issues.  My experience with concrete goes back many decades so I'm confident in the end result of my project.   It's all 4K PSI concrete with steel reinforcement.   Curing time for the slab and floor covering/barrier should not be an issue at this point.   Thanks for the response.

Will check out the urethane option.   

Rams

I just realized I may have confused urethane for epoxy…it’s been so long now I’m all mixed up.

[Jess from VA]

I don't have good advice or recommendations.

I do wonder if some curing time for the concrete is better than doing it right away.

Whatever you use, I would avoid any kind of slippery result.   Did you get a completely smooth concrete finish, or lightly brushed (traction)?  

And I'd want to be sure water hosing the place out from time to time would be OK with the coating.  

Many years ago, I used a concrete coating 'paint' on my basement utility room floor, and in time it flaked badly.  I ended up throwing carpet remnants down covering most of it.  Warmer on the old feet.  

[Rams]

I thought urethane sealers were the top of the line for residential and light/medium commercial applications.

Look into the concrete’s cure time needed for your application…how long does the concrete need to cure for before sealing it.

For some reason 30 days for urethane comes to mind but that could have changed over the years with new formulas.

My concrete foundation and stem walls have been there for about a year, the slab/floor was completed about six weeks ago.   Fired the first contractor due to him wanting to cheat, didn't want to follow code and other issues.  My experience with concrete goes back many decades so I'm confident in the end result of my project.   It's all 4K PSI concrete with steel reinforcement.   Curing time for the slab and floor covering/barrier should not be an issue at this point.   Thanks for the response.

Will check out the urethane option.  

Rams

I just realized I may have confused urethane for epoxy…it’s been so long now I’m all mixed up.

Well, I kind of wondered about the option of urethane when mentioned in that such a product hasn't showed up in any of my research but, one never knows if one doesn't ask the right questions.  

I don't have good advice or recommendations.

I do wonder if some curing time for the concrete is better than doing it right away.

Whatever you use, I would avoid any kind of slippery result.   Did you get a completely smooth concrete finish, or lightly brushed (traction)?  

And I'd want to be sure water hosing the place out from time to time would be OK with the coating.  

Many years ago, I used a concrete coating 'paint' on my basement utility room floor, and in time it flaked badly.  I ended up throwing carpet remnants down covering most of it.  Warmer on the old feet.  

Jess,
As I previously mentioned, curing time isn't an issue.   Although concrete can take a very long time to completely cure, 30 days is enough to allow this application and it's been almost six weeks.   Curing time depends on the mix and the thickness of the concrete.   I'm told Hoover Dam is still curing but, that's a massive structure.  The building isn't up yet so, it may take another two to three weeks for the floor to get this barrier.   Paint is not an option, I've seen that done before, it never lasts and will not provide the "barrier" protection I'm seeking.  The slab is a slick finish, the approach pad (driveway to the shop) is a light broom finish.

Rams

[Jersey mike]

For FYI;

“ Urethane vs Epoxy Concrete Floor Coatings: Which Flooring Solution Is Best for Your Business”

https://liquidfloors.com/blog/urethane-vs-epoxy-concrete-floor-coatings-which-flooring-solution-is-best-for-your-business/

[Rams]

For FYI;

“ Urethane vs Epoxy Concrete Floor Coatings: Which Flooring Solution Is Best for Your Business”

https://liquidfloors.com/blog/urethane-vs-epoxy-concrete-floor-coatings-which-flooring-solution-is-best-for-your-business/

Thanks, will look at that.   

Rams

[bassman]

FWIW, I have an Epoxy finished garage floor that was professionally done (meaning I didn't do it)  

Couple of thoughts:

1)  PREPARATION, PREPARATION, PREPARATION!!   More important for garage floor than almost any other painting/finishing in my opinion.  Two of my neighbors did it themselves and were slack on the prep work and after 12-18 months it showed - badly!  Mostly peeling.  Believe my installer used a diamond grinding wheel to prepare my 5 year old floor prior to applying epoxy finish

2)  Slippery - seriously consider some type of grit added to the finished product

3)  Double / triple check it will withstand the heat from vehicle tires sitting on floor after returning from any trip - short or long.  May have improved products since I had my floor done 10+ years ago but many finishes don't hold up the the heat from the vehicle tire.

You've probably know this or have already seen these but just in case:  (They rate Rust Oleum pretty high in these current articles but when I was check 10 years ago these didn't fare well so please use due diligence)

https://garagetransformed.com/garage-floor-coatings-ranked/

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-garage-floor-coatings/

https://todayshomeowner.com/flooring/guides/best-garage-flooring/


Good luck!  My floor needs to be redone after all these years (faded, chipped, discoloration where tires run) and I'll have someone else do it cuzz I'm VERY lazy and lack the proper tools and skills!)

[Rams]

FWIW, I have an Epoxy finished garage floor that was professionally done (meaning I didn't do it)  

Couple of thoughts:

1)  PREPARATION, PREPARATION, PREPARATION!!   More important for garage floor than almost any other painting/finishing in my opinion.  Two of my neighbors did it themselves and were slack on the prep work and after 12-18 months it showed - badly!  Mostly peeling.  Believe my installer used a diamond grinding wheel to prepare my 5 year old floor prior to applying epoxy finish

2)  Slippery - seriously consider some type of grit added to the finished product

3)  Double / triple check it will withstand the heat from vehicle tires sitting on floor after returning from any trip - short or long.  May have improved products since I had my floor done 10+ years ago but many finishes don't hold up the the heat from the vehicle tire.

You've probably know this or have already seen these but just in case:  (They rate Rust Oleum pretty high in these current articles but when I was check 10 years ago these didn't fare well so please use due diligence)

https://garagetransformed.com/garage-floor-coatings-ranked/

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-garage-floor-coatings/

https://todayshomeowner.com/flooring/guides/best-garage-flooring/


Good luck!  My floor needs to be redone after all these years (faded, chipped, discoloration where tires run) and I'll have someone else do it cuzz I'm VERY lazy and lack the proper tools and skills!)

Appreciate the response and advice.   I qualify and am not only lazy and lacking the proper tools but, I'm also not the man I used to be but limited on what I can spend on this but will consider the Professional options.   Thanks again.

Rams

[RP#62]

Don't know anything about it myself, but these folks advertise in our area a lot.  Here's what it says on their site about the types of coatings:

https://www.galaxyconcretecoatings.com/learning-center/industrial-floor-solutions/

RP

[Jess from VA]

I'm told Hoover Dam is still curing but, that's a massive structure.

Concrete hardens for 80 years, then keeps going incrementally until brittle and past it's useful life (and affected by use and weather/wet/temps/sun.

I had a lot of concrete done at my house 30 years ago (extra wide drive from street, past house through two big 8' gates, down backyard right to bike shed, and 9-4 feet wide down the back of the house, then a walk from my deck back to the 2 sheds (both double marine plywood floors 2 inches above concrete).  Making a triangle of a back yard for landscape.  All of it has done remarkably well except expected cracks at the built-in expansion joints in big long slabs (repaired with polymeric sand).  The underlying aggregate begins to show through the old perfect surface, but not bad at all.  

I should have done the original walk to the front door and the door stoop too, but it was fine 30 years ago.

When it gets stained from oak pollen (and stuff) over time, I go out on a very light rainy day, and use a pump sprayer with 50-50 water and bleach and mist it down, and the light rain slowly washes away the staining.  Bleach must stay wet to keep working.  Using a pressure washer burns off the finished surface (exposing aggregate) and should be avoided.    

 

[Rams]

I'm told Hoover Dam is still curing but, that's a massive structure.


When it gets stained from oak pollen (and stuff) over time, I go out on a very light rainy day, and use a pump sprayer with 50-50 water and bleach and mist it down, and the light rain slowly washes away the staining.  Bleach must stay wet to keep working.  Using a pressure washer burns off the finished surface (exposing aggregate) and should be avoided.    
 

Have never used bleach (that I recall) for pollen but have used it for mold before on concrete and vinyl fencing.

Have become convinced Epoxy is the way to go for my application but still looking at different brands.

Rams  

[Rams]

Well, back to the ole drawing board.   Thought I found a sealant for my new garage floor with good ratings that would protect my new concrete floor from lubricants, moisture and chemicals while providing very good wear resistance.   

Was about to order but thought I'd check with a friend since he's done this before.   Even though the product was supposed to be 15 times tougher than epoxy but priced within my budget, my friend reports that he picked and applied the same product to his new concrete floor and although it holds up with vehicles rolling over it in a straight line, if the steering wheels get rotated while parked, the barrier rolls up as the tire moves.   He said he followed all the instructions in prep and application.

As I said, back to the search.  The electrician is coming by today to tell me what he recommends for my purposes.   Scaling back on some things might be my only option.  I keep telling my Texas friends I'm available for adoption but.......................................

BTW, this is what I thought I was going to go with in case you're interested: 

Rust-Oleum 293515 RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 2.5 Car Kit, High Gloss Tan

[Jersey mike]

Well, back to the ole drawing board.   Thought I found a sealant for my new garage floor with good ratings that would protect my new concrete floor from lubricants, moisture and chemicals while providing very good wear resistance.   

Was about to order but thought I'd check with a friend since he's done this before.   Even though the product was supposed to be 15 times tougher than epoxy but priced within my budget, my friend reports that he picked and applied the same product to his new concrete floor and although it holds up with vehicles rolling over it in a straight line, if the steering wheels get rotated while parked, the barrier rolls up as the tire moves.   He said he followed all the instructions in prep and application.

As I said, back to the search.  The electrician is coming by today to tell me what he recommends for my purposes.   Scaling back on some things might be my only option.  I keep telling my Texas friends I'm available for adoption but.......................................

BTW, this is what I thought I was going to go with in case you're interested: 

Rust-Oleum 293515 RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 2.5 Car Kit, High Gloss Tan

Just spitballing here, can you find out what is used in airplane hangers.

Lots of fluids potentially spilled and different sets of tires used to push/pull aircraft around inside.

[Jess from VA]

Ron, in your search and the posts here, it seems vehicle tires cause trouble with these various sealants (heat, or turning).  Maybe this could be remedied by picking your best choice sealant, then throwing down some rubber/plastic runner mats or flat (low pile) carpet remnant runners where the vehicle tires will sit. I have entryway mats at my doors that are rubber bottomed with a tough low pile fabric on top.  And they could be pulled out and hosed off from time to time.

[bassman]

Well, back to the ole drawing board.   Thought I found a sealant for my new garage floor with good ratings that would protect my new concrete floor from lubricants, moisture and chemicals while providing very good wear resistance.   

Was about to order but thought I'd check with a friend since he's done this before.   Even though the product was supposed to be 15 times tougher than epoxy but priced within my budget, my friend reports that he picked and applied the same product to his new concrete floor and although it holds up with vehicles rolling over it in a straight line, if the steering wheels get rotated while parked, the barrier rolls up as the tire moves.   He said he followed all the instructions in prep and application.

As I said, back to the search.  The electrician is coming by today to tell me what he recommends for my purposes.   Scaling back on some things might be my only option.  I keep telling my Texas friends I'm available for adoption but.......................................

BTW, this is what I thought I was going to go with in case you're interested: 

Rust-Oleum 293515 RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating, 2.5 Car Kit, High Gloss Tan

Just spitballing here, can you find out what is used in airplane hangers.

Lots of fluids potentially spilled and different sets of tires used to push/pull aircraft around inside.

Could also check local auto dealership service areas for the same reasons listed above but would imagine their process could be pricey

[Rams]

Just spitballing here, can you find out what is used in airplane hangers.

Lots of fluids potentially spilled and different sets of tires used to push/pull aircraft around inside.

Probably a good idea to check.   I strongly suspect at best the barrier is the same as what's used in similar fork truck traffic areas.   But, who to ask...........

Ron, in your search and the posts here, it seems vehicle tires cause trouble with these various sealants (heat, or turning).  Maybe this could be remedied by picking your best choice sealant, then throwing down some rubber/plastic runner mats or flat (low pile) carpet remnant runners where the vehicle tires will sit. I have entryway mats at my doors that are rubber bottomed with a tough low pile fabric on top.  And they could be pulled out and hosed off from time to time.

A valid suggestion, may have to go that way although, it's not really the direction I'd prefer to take.   I don't expect to eliminate tire marks, but am attempting to have a clean non-stained concrete floor.

Could also check local auto dealership service areas for the same reasons listed above but would imagine their process could be pricey

Tried doing that a couple weeks back at a local dealership, no one there seemed to know what the barrier was, that included the clean up guy that kept the floors clean and trash dumped.

Appreciate the responses, my next approach will be to actually visit some flooring places to see what they recommend.   Lots of internet ads for applying these products but, I'm a skeptic when it comes to believing ads.   Stretching the truth is a fine art developed for sales.

Rams

[crow]

On my 30x40, I used Thpmpsons water seal cut 50% with mineral spirits.  Turned out wonderful. 

[Jersey mike]

My only last suggestion or idea is, I’ve been in many Home Depot’s and Lowe’s, their floors are sealed with a clear product and see a lot of foot traffic along with shopping carts, push carts and forklifts.

[Jersey mike]

On my 30x40, I used Thpmpsons water seal cut 50% with mineral spirits.  Turned out wonderful. 

That’s an interesting application. I guess the mineral spirits helped it absorb deeper into the concrete.

[Jersey mike]

Just spitballing here, can you find out what is used in airplane hangers.

Lots of fluids potentially spilled and different sets of tires used to push/pull aircraft around inside.

Probably a good idea to check.   I strongly suspect at best the barrier is the same as what's used in similar fork truck traffic areas.   But, who to ask...........

Ron, in your search and the posts here, it seems vehicle tires cause trouble with these various sealants (heat, or turning).  Maybe this could be remedied by picking your best choice sealant, then throwing down some rubber/plastic runner mats or flat (low pile) carpet remnant runners where the vehicle tires will sit. I have entryway mats at my doors that are rubber bottomed with a tough low pile fabric on top.  And they could be pulled out and hosed off from time to time.

A valid suggestion, may have to go that way although, it's not really the direction I'd prefer to take.   I don't expect to eliminate tire marks, but am attempting to have a clean non-stained concrete floor.

Could also check local auto dealership service areas for the same reasons listed above but would imagine their process could be pricey

Tried doing that a couple weeks back at a local dealership, no one there seemed to know what the barrier was, that included the clean up guy that kept the floors clean and trash dumped.

Appreciate the responses, my next approach will be to actually visit some flooring places to see what they recommend.   Lots of internet ads for applying these products but, I'm a skeptic when it comes to believing ads.   Stretching the truth is a fine art developed for sales.

Rams

Found this for ya;

https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/resin-flooring/industry/aviation-aerospace/hangar.html

Long-Lasting Aircraft Hangar Floor Coatings for Maximum Safety and Visibility

Sherwin-Williams aircraft hangar epoxy flooring solutions are designed to hold up against impact and the weight of heavy machinery and vehicles, including aircraft, forklifts and trucks. Our high performance flooring selection includes highly abrasion-resistant systems that offer industry-leading protection from scrapes and wear. These long-lived systems demonstrate proven longevity in the high use environments found in busy maintenance, FBO and MRO hangars. This exceptional durability is a requirement of air hangar flooring, and Sherwin-Williams resinous flooring systems are up for the challenge.


A Tennessee company;

https://www.iasolutions.com/project/airplane-hangars-epoxy-coating/

https://www.iasolutions.com/project-category/automotive-dealerships-repair-shops/

[RP#62]

Have you looked into Polyaspartic coatings?  They're supposed to be the gold standard for industrial floors.  Don't know about the price though.


RP

[JimC]

10 years ago I used a product from Sherwin-Williams. It was NOT an epoxy, it was a single stage paint. I was skeptical, but I knew the sales guy and he swore by it. When asked how well it held up I was told that the only way it would lift off is through friction over the years. He was correct, to this day it has held up everywhere but where the cars drove in and out, it has gotten thinner there, BUT, I just noticed it this year.

I use my shop a lot, and so far the only thing that seemed to attack it was a couple of different solvents I spilled, they seemed to melt in to the color so to speak and dis color it a little, but over time that went away also. It was very in-expensive compared to epoxy, if I remember correctly it was not much more than normal paint when buying a 5 gallons bucket of it.
Sorry, don't have the name of the product, but I'm sure they would know at the SW paint store.
JIM