Pilot Screw Adjustment
Joe333x:
Quote from: Glaserbeam on September 05, 2025, 05:46:52 PM
I was able to borrow the Honda pilot jet d-shaped long tool from a friend at the company, and using it was fairly simple once I loosened and spun the hose clamps 180 degrees around the rubber tube/metal intake tube connection between the carburetors and the heads, because where the two ends of the hose clamp come together and tighten interfered with the tool.
I did the idle drop adjustment, which was difficult because the big six doesn't idle glassy smoothly, and you're trying to detect a 50 rpm drop, but I probably ended up with all the screws between two and two and a half turns out. I also had synced the carbs right before doing this. The bike seems to idle a little bit better, but my gas mileage with our lousy California Gas is still always between 22 and 26 MPG with mostly City driving, and I am in awe of those who get above 30 mpg consistently.
I saw a decent increase in mileage by swapping in a 4 degree trigger wheel and I set my pilots using a colortune and this time set them to low end of the blue combustion where as before I set them to the high side and it was definitely running rich. I have straight pipes and have 105 and 38 jets. Once I have her warmed up she'll idle at 500rpms nicely. I forget exactly what I get for MPG but on my interstate I get a 100 miles to the half tank mark on the gauge with a mix of city and highway above 3000rpm cruising speed so I'm sure with an all highway keeping her at 3000rpms I could get over 200 miles on a tank. I do run 93 in her since it's recommended when using the trigger wheel. The 4° is for interstates since they are already advanced 2° and the 6° was made for the other models. I'm not sure if you can still find the 6° but cycle max has the 4° and that's the one I'm using. https://cyclemax.com/products/gl1500-valkyrie-trigger-wheel?_pos=1&_sid=c670d7867&_ss=r
WintrSol:
I keep an Excel file with every gallon and mile I've put on her since I bought her 10-1/2 years ago. Long term average is 31.4, highest ever was 47 (an outlier), and, not including the one I had a fuel leak, lowest was about 20, and was pulling a ~750# camping trailer cross-country to the Smokies. Usually 27 in town, though. Mpg improved after replacing the over-sized idle jets, and 4 degree timing wheel, which was not compatible with towing that trailer up mountains.
Peteg:
Cool thread first I've heard of color tuning. So the following is easy for me to say as my bike was set up well and as much as I like to turn knobs I'm not touching it.
I can get to my AF screws with a standard 1/4" hex drive D bit and a 1/4" combo wrench. It would be difficult on a hot bike but with the right gloves could be doable. Also once the AF screw is moved with the bit and wrench it would seem you could put a 1/4" hex extension on the bit and turn it with your fingers maybe with some rubber gloves.
So if what's written above does not sound dangerous enough, I read about a guy who claims he uses discharged 22 shells for Dbits. I guess he flattens 1 side. I actually tried it without success. I was unable to get the flat edge right. If it worked they would be so cheap and so light you could maybe leave them up in place and like adjust the carbs once a week or daily. :-\
Dirty Dave:
Just saying I get 34 to 36 mpg on my 97 with the ECT mod and Interstate diaphragm springs.
62 k miles on the clock.
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