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Gene
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« on: December 06, 2025, 09:04:46 AM » |
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Had my 2000 Interstate up on rack for maintenance (tires, bearings, pipes, rear drive and all brakes but no engine work). Reassembled and on test ride I get a rattle or clicking sound when letting off the throttle, mostly in 4th and 5th gear at speed but it shows up across all gears. I can't locate it but believe it is toward the front of the bike, but I have ruled out front calipers or wheel track. Any ideas?
Gemini mentions the clutch basket or rear drive could be the cause. I had the drive shaft out for inspection, cleaned and changed oil in the rear differential. I don't think it is coming from there.
Scratching my head on this one. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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98valk
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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2025, 09:09:06 AM » |
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the removable side covers on the oem exhaust pipes where the foot pegs are.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Gene
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2025, 06:26:16 AM » |
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Checked those exhaust side covers and they are tight and snug. Thanks.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2025, 07:21:25 AM » |
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Sometimes you can locate a rattle by sticking the bike up on the lift and then going around rapping things with a rubber mallet, or shaking the bike. (although maybe not if only on decel) I had a rattling noise that was driving me crazy that turned out to be my corded earplugs (half helmet), where the cord was being blown around and tugged on by the wind. That took a long time to discover, and a lot of rapping and shaking the bike for nothing. I'd take the plugs out thinking I might better hear where it was coming from, and then nothing.  Solved with no-cord ear plugs (for hearing conservation).
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WintrSol
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« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2025, 09:55:24 AM » |
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Is the clicking related to the rpm, i.e.: it is faster at higher rpm?
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Gene
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« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2025, 07:09:17 AM » |
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Thanks for the input!
I don't believe it changes rpm or correlates with engine rpm, but as soon as this weather lifts I'm going to give it another test ride. That said, I believe I was able to affect the rattle with the clutch, but I'm going to collect more data on that on my next ride. Will get back shortly on this issue.
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WintrSol
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« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2025, 09:40:39 AM » |
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Also, give a close look at the clearance between the front calipers and moving wheel parts. The slight shift in weight could change a close pass to a light touch.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Gene
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« Reply #7 on: December 09, 2025, 07:09:26 AM » |
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Yeah, my front left caliper needed a lot of adjusting to get it to clear the moving wheel studs. There is clearance now, but not much, and much less than the right caliper. Its clears nicely on the stand, but not sure how much it shifts when deaccelerating. I can't seem to adjust that clearance any more. The wheel studs are actually too close to the fork mount, maybe 2mm. Not sure how that can be adjusted unless the wheel spacing is off. If it moves under deacceleration that could be the culprit.
Still researching this.
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WintrSol
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« Reply #8 on: December 09, 2025, 10:02:32 AM » |
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Look at the diagram at the bottom of page 13-15 in the FSM; clearance stated there. The fork has to be in the correct position on the axle before tightening the pinch bolts, so the clearance meets spec.
For reference, my axle is just slightly above the surface of the fork, where the curve of the fork meets the axle at its highest point. I've read that some axles are marked with a reference line, but it isn't mentioned in the manual.
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« Last Edit: December 09, 2025, 10:34:00 AM by WintrSol »
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: December 09, 2025, 05:01:54 PM » |
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Post a picture of the end of the axle (clutch side). Let’s see how flush it is with the fork lower
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WintrSol
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« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2025, 08:30:46 PM » |
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Post a picture of the end of the axle (clutch side). Let’s see how flush it is with the fork lower
Gene, or me?
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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98valk
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« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2025, 05:54:12 AM » |
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Checked those exhaust side covers and they are tight and snug. Thanks.
however the interlocking tabs could have lost their rubber covers and I have found even if they are there the cover could still be installed where it is slightly distorted and vibrates against the pipes.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2025, 10:31:31 AM » |
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Post a picture of the end of the axle (clutch side). Let’s see how flush it is with the fork lower
Gene, or me? The clicking could be a mis-aligned left fork
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WintrSol
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« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2025, 01:35:23 PM » |
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The clicking could be a mis-aligned left fork
Yes, and the procedure on FSM page 13-15 should take care of that. My axle position, left fork: 
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2025, 06:51:49 PM » |
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It seems most axles have a tiny groove cut in the big diameter of the shaft. Align the tube so the groove is just visible on the inside edge of the tube.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #15 on: December 11, 2025, 05:44:13 AM » |
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Have you inspected the u-joint?
Because you stated you hear the click on deceleration, I'm thinking that could be the issue.
It would be timed with speed and not rpms.
The one time I reinstalled a front axle incorrectly, the clicking was heard right away and not just on decel, but anything could happen.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2025, 02:50:51 PM » |
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The clicking could be a mis-aligned left fork
Yes, and the procedure on FSM page 13-15 should take care of that. My axle position, left fork:  Loosen those pinch bolts and move the fork out until flush with axle head
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2025, 03:10:37 PM » |
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Yeah, my front left caliper needed a lot of adjusting to get it to clear the moving wheel studs. There is clearance now, but not much, and much less than the right caliper. Its clears nicely on the stand, but not sure how much it shifts when deaccelerating. I can't seem to adjust that clearance any more. The wheel studs are actually too close to the fork mount, maybe 2mm. Not sure how that can be adjusted unless the wheel spacing is off. If it moves under deacceleration that could be the culprit.
Still researching this.
Adjustment is made by moving the left fork out to where it’s flush with the head of the axle
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WintrSol
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« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2025, 08:00:22 PM » |
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Loosen those pinch bolts and move the fork out until flush with axle head
It's been a while, but I think I recall having the reference line on the axle, and I lined it up there. No issues with clearance.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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