Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 14, 2025, 01:37:56 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: How to pull the pumkin?  (Read 1808 times)
fiddle mike
Member
*****
Posts: 1148


Nothing exceeds like excess.

Corpus Christi, TX


WWW
« on: April 01, 2010, 01:42:05 PM »

Replacing the rear tire and decided to change final drive oil while I'm at it.  Danged filler cap won't come off, nut is boogered.  Tried driving on a 16mm with and hand impact but couldn't get no love.  Figgered I could drain it and refill with amount specified  and lube the drive shaft/pinion cup while I'm at it.

How to pull the pumpkin?

Use small words.  Wink
Logged
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16783


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2010, 01:50:08 PM »


 * how to pull the pumpkin...

Once you get the wheel off, and loosen the four bolts that bolt the final drive to
the swingarm, it is off...

I helped my buddy Henry change his tire this weekend... when I went to pull the wheel,
the flange came loose - this doesn't usually happen on my bike - and I couldn't pull the wheel
out... so I fumbled a bit and then just removed the four bolts and yanked the whole mess out, wheel,
pumpkin and shaft...

It was a mess in there, a pinwall pumpkin and a HDL flange are on the way...

-Mike
Logged

fiddle mike
Member
*****
Posts: 1148


Nothing exceeds like excess.

Corpus Christi, TX


WWW
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2010, 02:01:03 PM »


 * how to pull the pumpkin...

Once you get the wheel off, and loosen the four bolts that bolt the final drive to
the swingarm, it is off...

... so I fumbled a bit and then just removed the four bolts and yanked the whole mess out, wheel,
pumpkin and shaft...


-Mike

Did the U joint stay on the output shaft?
Logged
sugerbear
Member
*****
Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2010, 03:23:39 PM »

it usually helps to take a knife with you(those stem are tough) Evil Evil
Logged



KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
*****
Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2010, 03:25:05 PM »

Unless you remove the swingarm, the u-joint will remain in place and the shaft will just pull out. When reinstalling be sure everything is buttoned up BEFORE fully tightening the 4 bolts of the final drive. Having everything (wheel, shocks, etc.) tightened FIRST is what gets the drive shaft lined up properly before tightening it fully.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2010, 03:26:54 PM by Misunderstood » Logged
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
Member
*****
Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2010, 04:57:53 PM »

when trying to stab the shaft back in the u-joint get the swingarm up to a fairly level angle to make hitting the u-joint coupler easier. cooldude
Logged
Tx Bohemian
Member
*****
Posts: 2273

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2010, 05:07:52 PM »

when trying to stab the shaft back in the u-joint get the swingarm up to a fairly level angle to make hitting the u-joint coupler easier. cooldude

When I did mine I put the Driven Flange on the differential when I was stabbing it I used that to spin the driveshaft to line up with the u-joint splines.

And have the transmission in gear to keep the u-joint from spinning.
Logged

Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14783


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2010, 06:03:13 PM »

Unless you remove the swingarm, the u-joint will remain in place and the shaft will just pull out. When reinstalling be sure everything is buttoned up BEFORE fully tightening the 4 bolts of the final drive. Having everything (wheel, shocks, etc.) tightened FIRST is what gets the drive shaft lined up properly before tightening it fully.

I agree those 4 bolts holding the pumpkin on are tightend last, however what wasnt said and is very important is that the axle be the FIRST thing tightend (well you have to stick the caliper plate holder pin through the swingarm but that doesnt affect the process).  THEN TIGHTEN that axle to 81ftlbs while the pumkin is loose and free, that is the secret to proper alignment.  Dont put the shocks on first, dont snug up the 4 pumkin bolts....... pumpkin needs to be loose and free and then torque the axle, then it really doesnt matter what you do next next and last
Logged
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
*****
Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2010, 03:43:20 AM »

Unless you remove the swingarm, the u-joint will remain in place and the shaft will just pull out. When reinstalling be sure everything is buttoned up BEFORE fully tightening the 4 bolts of the final drive. Having everything (wheel, shocks, etc.) tightened FIRST is what gets the drive shaft lined up properly before tightening it fully.

I agree those 4 bolts holding the pumpkin on are tightend last, however what wasnt said and is very important is that the axle be the FIRST thing tightend (well you have to stick the caliper plate holder pin through the swingarm but that doesnt affect the process).  THEN TIGHTEN that axle to 81ftlbs while the pumkin is loose and free, that is the secret to proper alignment.  Dont put the shocks on first, dont snug up the 4 pumkin bolts....... pumpkin needs to be loose and free and then torque the axle, then it really doesnt matter what you do next next and last

 cooldude
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: