Jess from Va...Levers

[Tundra]

Jess,
  I wanted to thank you again for the useful  information you always provide.  I finally got around to changing out my levers, using the information you provided  I might add, they appear to be the most comfortable/functional levers I've used.

Here is a nice link on the 1800 wing wide chrome adjustable (reach) levers.   It was created in '05 or so, so the prices and internal links may not be correct anymore.  These levers are made by Kuryakyn (and I think Add-On also made/makes an identical pair).  The bike and levers in the pics are now mine, and they are very nice for smaller handed folks like me.... easier to feather the clutch in tight maneuvers.  New levers should come with new bushings...old bushings should not be used.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/valkyrie/messages?msg=13360.1

[TJ]

Now all you need is a wing to go with those levers..... 

[Jess from VA]

You're quite welcome Tundra.

I just put a a pair on my other IS, and though the install was easy, I have a small problem with my brake light staying on after releasing the lever (for a few moments).  It appears I overtightened the lever bolt (not the acorn nut)... or that my reused bushing is a bit out of round.  In any event, the brake light plunger switch at the lever was well cleaned and lubed but does not appear to have enough spring power to push out against a released brake lever.  A small nudge forward with the back of the fingers releases the switch, but this is unsat.  Have not had a chance to tinker with it further.  This small issue is reported by several others as well, and is not easy to diagnose alone, unless in a garage or otherwise able to see the taillight while working the lever.  If a new bushing is needed, the Suzuki bushing (all are the same) is several dollars cheaper than the rest.   FYI  

They are a great improvement over OE or OE replacement levers.  Reach is reduced up to half normal distance with perfect brake and clutch function. 

[Tundra]

 

They are a great improvement over OE or OE replacement levers.  Reach is reduced up to half normal distance with perfect brake and clutch function.  

  Your not kidding, I have large hands, although I set mine on #5, just to see what it's like. Brake is right there, BAM. Clutch engages/disengages instantly, no travel. Real nice, inexpensive improvement.

TJ...keep workin me I'm running numbers in my head and now is just not a good time for me financially to swing this. If I had the income I had a year ago, it would already be in my garage. (lottery is 125 million) That might work fo me.

[Scott from FL, now in Maine]

I have the wing levers on my bike. I love the way they feel and work, BUT, for some reason the chrome starts coming off in a relatively short time (only about 3 months!) Is anyone else having this problem? The chrome levers I had previously did the same thing. I chalked it up to a bad chrome job. The clutch lever chrome starts to go first and goes fast, the brake lever is following at a slower pace 

[MP]

I have a pair on my 97, almost two years now, and the chrome is perfect.  Sure love the levers.  Much easier to use.

MP

[Jess from VA]

I have the wing levers on my bike. I love the way they feel and work, BUT, for some reason the chrome starts coming off in a relatively short time (only about 3 months!) Is anyone else having this problem? The chrome levers I had previously did the same thing. I chalked it up to a bad chrome job. The clutch lever chrome starts to go first and goes fast, the brake lever is following at a slower pace 

Scott, the adj. levers on my SV have been on for at least 5-6 years, and the chrome is perfect.  Some people have a much more acidic perspiration, and some hands sweat more than others.   No insult intended, just suggesting (since this has happened on two successive sets of levers).  Course you no doubt wear gloves?

[John U.]

I just put a a pair on my other IS, and though the install was easy, I have a small problem with my brake light staying on after releasing the lever (for a few moments).  It appears I overtightened the lever bolt (not the acorn nut)... or that my reused bushing is a bit out of round.  In any event, the brake light plunger switch at the lever was well cleaned and lubed but does not appear to have enough spring power to push out against a released brake lever.  A small nudge forward with the back of the fingers releases the switch, but this is unsat.  Have not had a chance to tinker with it further.  This small issue is reported by several others as well, and is not easy to diagnose alone, unless in a garage or otherwise able to see the taillight while working the lever.  If a new bushing is needed, the Suzuki bushing (all are the same) is several dollars cheaper than the rest.   FYI  

They are a great improvement over OE or OE replacement levers.  Reach is reduced up to half normal distance with perfect brake and clutch function.  

I had the same problem with the brake light not going off. I used a fairly new bushing, enough moly grease and fiddled with the tightening and loosening to the point where I've decided I can't rely on the proper functioning of the brake light. So I'm running and adjustable clutch lever and a non-adjustable wide chrome brake lever. They don't match (the clutch lever is longer) but it gives my clutch hand an easier time of it, which is what I really needed. I guess it's a bit unusual but I have no worries about the brake light not working right.

[Jess from VA]

Too bad John, but you're right, it's the clutch side where you get the most benefit from these levers.
My brake lite only stays on a bit longer than it should, and I hope to fix that gremlin, but a bit longer brake lite isn't really a bad thing, so long as it comes on. 

Again, the consensus is the glitch is caused by over tightening the lever screw (doesn't need to be that tight with the acorn nut keeper), or an out of round brass bushing.

[Tundra]

I read your post regarding the brake light, I have no issue. Works fine, everytime. I can't suggest a fix cause I can't duplicate the problem.

[PharmBoy]

After putting these adjustable levers on my 98 Tourer, I discovered that it would not start in gear if the clutch adjustment was in either of the last two adjustments closest to the grip.  Not enough travel to trip the switch...JTL   

[Jess from VA]

That problem I've never heard... sounds like a wear issue.  I keep both sides set at 4 (or the next to closest setting). 

[PharmBoy]

It is not really a problem.  The middle setting is where I prefer it anyway, but I just Thought I'd see if anyone else had experienced the same thing...JTL

[X Ring]

Mine are set at 5.  No problems.

[Valkflyer]

I just put a pair on my other IS, and though the install was easy, I have a small problem with my brake light staying on after releasing the lever (for a few moments).  It appears I overtightened the lever bolt (not the acorn nut)... or that my reused bushing is a bit out of round.  In any event, the brake light plunger switch at the lever was well cleaned and lubed but does not appear to have enough spring power to push out against a released brake lever.  A small nudge forward with the back of the fingers releases the switch, but this is unsat.

[/color]

There’s a simple solution to the brake switch / lever issue that worked for me :

Using a fine grooved flat file, clean up the area on the reservoir were the lever bushing slides into the reservoir, top and bottom. (You’re not going to want to do this too much though, just enough so that the lever’s bushing doesn’t bind as you slide it in and out).

Next, cut a small slice of sheet metal, or something similar, and bond it on to the lever at the point where it would make contact with the switch.  (I used some silicone adhesive sealer, it works great but I’m sure there are other products that would work as well).   Allow it to set firmly.

 (The best way to decide the gauge of sheet metal to use can be determined by initially mounting the lever and looking at the gap between it and what it will take to actuate the switch).  In general you’re just building up the area on the lever slightly so that the switch will remain pushed in until the lever is pulled.

Last, lubricate the pivot bolt and put it together, bingo!  

[MikeT]

I had the same issue and wrapped a few rounds of aluminum foil tape around the tang that makes the brake light micro switch.  No alum. foil tape, electrial tape will work too.

[BuzzKill]

Best $40 I've spend on her!  I installed them last week on my 97 Tourer.  No problems with the break, but did have the clutch switch not being hit at the closer adjustments.  My solution was to loosen the screw on the switch itself and pry it closer while I tightened down the screw back.  Worked great.  It would actuate the switch all the way up to 5.
It really is a pretty simple mod and it makes it WAY more comfortable than stock levers.  Specially if you dont wear gloves.  I usually do, and I can tell a difference even with thick leather gloves.