Thats the reason why I said to double check and loosen all the adjusters its kinda like a fail safe thing. To separate out the confusion as much as possible and to maybe pin point real problems like you are doing. The easiest thing to do is to is to make sure the piston is bottom dead center with play in the valves then put air in the cylinder. Do each cylinder seperatly and not by the book make sure the lobes are in a position that keep the valves closed and do this on each cylinder. The book will link cylinders together to do together forget it do each separately.I have tried to get it to tdc and had the engine spin on more than one occasion so its bdc so no spinning. With the engine like this put air in the cylinder and see if you get leakage from anywhere. I want to say that if you can disconnect the air line and the cylinder stays pressurized for say 4 to 10 seconds before all the air leaks out then thats good. You will hear air going into the crankcase air is always going to bypass the rings use the good cylinders as a comparison. It really hard to describe how much air you should hear thats why the air holding for 4 to 10 seconds is good. If you dont have air out the valves anymore I would reconfirm my valve adjustment and timing. Like I said these engines are pretty solid and I doubt that you have ring problems. Sorry about the oil filter deal

Let me say one more thing after doing what your doing many many times I like to eliminate as many problems as possible and not to have to redo steps. I know aggravation but take your time and like was said make sure you have valve lash when you do this test. Valve adjustment is easy and dosent take long so who cares about adjustment make sure to do the test completely and accurately and then do the next step. Who knows maybe all it was is the valve adjustment.