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Author Topic: Exhaust ques.  (Read 1848 times)
BigM
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« on: August 03, 2010, 01:21:05 PM »

I have done the glasspack mod. Sounds good. I did make the baffles removable. But even with the baffles in  my wife says is to loud for her. Were going to take a long trip and I need to wrap the baffles or someway quiten them down temp. for the trip. Any ideas.
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Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2010, 02:43:23 PM »

Cheapskate Solution: Get your wife some good fitting earplugs!
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
BigM
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« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2010, 04:34:17 PM »

That would be a solution but she wont wear them. I may wrap some type of fiberglass,like insulation around the baffles with tie wraps or etc. Not sure if would hurt anything or performance?
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2010, 04:40:38 PM »

If your glasspacks are removable, you can install longer ones.

Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
2qmedic
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« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2010, 05:33:37 PM »

Ok, i have a possible solution for you.
 
I have done this on my bike. I have the Cobras 6x with baffles. The same basic principle should apply.
 
1-Take out the baffle.
2-Use 2 stainless steel scouring pads. (got mine from the dollar store) They are
wound up in a coil.
3-Stretch two pads over each baffle (for the Cobra baffles).
4-Use some .032 or .040 wire (or some type of wire) and wrap it around the pads.
This will help compress the pads as to not be so puffy when reinstalling back
into the pipe. (learned from school of hard knocks)
5-Reinstall baffle. (If I did again, I would use some type of oil or lube in the
pipe to help get them in again. It will burn off.)
6-Take it out for a ride.
 
If not quiet enough for her, go another step.
 
7-Take the baffle to an automotive store and buy freeze plugs that will fit over
the end of the baffle exhaust port.
8-Drill a 3/4 hole (same size as the orignal piggy) and then attach it with a
bolt, weld it or however.
Note: With the 3/4 inch hole, I know that I have not exceeded the stock mfg back
pressure. I did try a 1/2 inch hole, loss in pwr. 5/8 may be doable, didn't
try that size.
 
The volume at 50mph is now the volume at 75ish. Needless to say that the orignal
sound level at 75 was just way too loud. If the sound at 50 mph (after you wrap the baffles) is acceptable, then I would consider this mod vs the expense of buying stock exhaust. It was
worth it for me.
 
Another thing would be to wrap the outside of the pads with some exhaust
material. It would probably knock down the bouncing sound waves around the
baffles even more. I believe the scouring pads would also help the material to
last longer. If I pull mine again, I will do this also.

Hope this helps,
Cheers  cooldude
« Last Edit: August 03, 2010, 05:39:32 PM by 2qmedic » Logged
BigM
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« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2010, 07:20:49 PM »

That sounds like a idea. I can wrap the baffles and won't be a problem sliding them in and out. There is a frt and rear ring on the baffles and the piggies in between. I can wrap the piggies in between the rings and wont affect the tightness. Will try it and see if any power drop. Thanks , I'll let ya know how it works.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2010, 08:50:19 PM »

If you still have the orginal cans you can make a silencer from the rear baffle section of the stock exhaust cans. You then slide them in behind the glasspacks and using a sheet metal screw from the bottom to keep them there. Bike will be about as loud as it was stock. Mark T makes these ready to install. You might check his website about a trade out.
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BigM
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« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2010, 11:48:43 AM »

The piggies had been cut end of can. I pulled the baffle can out. The middle of the piggies were exposed inside the can. I wrapped ea. pig tube with scoring pad and tied with tie wire. It still gave it that deep sound but did quiten down the drone and volume some. Will make it easier on her ears.
The ques now is will this cause any damage to motor, over heat, or may make my chrome stacks discolor due to more heat at baffle?  (Sounds like a MAD GOLDWING now.) But I can still pull the cans and turn the Harley heads. Any ans. appreciated!
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BigM
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« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2010, 11:53:26 AM »

One other note. I actually think it runs better. If heat and back pressure ,etc. won't be an issue. The exhaust is only now going out the center of ea. tube. The piggie holes in the can are wrapped.
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2qmedic
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« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2010, 04:52:20 PM »

Isn't there a picture/illustration of the baffles and can for that modification?
Does anyone know where I may be able to find it?

After I read the post on what was done, I started thinking that the stock baffles were designed and worked differently (air flow travel) than the cobras. Can't remember fer sure.
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BigM
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« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2010, 07:24:53 PM »

Heres the silencer baffle before wrapping ea. tube inside the can. Can you see of any problem can cause in the future as I had asked?
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/images/Packs/silencer01a.jpg
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2qmedic
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Simply Awesome!!!


« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2010, 07:53:29 PM »

Just to ensure because I can't really see it.
But the entrance and exit of the air flow is via the front and then rear of the baffle correct. Meaning that the air flow does not have a different entrance into the can, then go into and out through the baffle. If it does, then you are impeding the air flow, meaning increased back pressure.
Hope this made sense...

If you can look through one end of the baffle all the way out the other end, then...
I see no problem.  cooldude
The stainless steel scouring pad just keeps the exhaust sound waves from bouncing around inside the can. The air will now go straight through the baffle.
Good deal!!!

« Last Edit: August 04, 2010, 08:03:34 PM by 2qmedic » Logged
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