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Author Topic: fuel shutoff valve  (Read 5182 times)
bikerbob
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Posts: 4


« on: March 25, 2009, 05:08:26 PM »

My fuel will not shut off the fuel.  I guess the small ball inside is broke or something like that... What can I do.

Is this repairable......                       TIA
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Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2009, 05:19:23 PM »

Rebuild it! The kit is called "Fuel Shut-off Cover Set" and is available through most dealers for $25.00-30.00. Real easy to do, did mine yesterday.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2009, 06:12:25 PM »

if the ball is broken, the only option is a new petcock. the kit mentioned is only for the vaccum and fuel diaphragms.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2009, 07:35:26 PM »

http://www.pingelonline.com/products.htm
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DFragn
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« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2009, 09:19:28 PM »

I doubt the ball is broken because it's a big steel ball.
It's probably a failed "O" ring that the ball seals into with selection.
You could drill the rivets replace the o-rings with suitable ones for gasoline and then screw and nut it back together.

Personally, I would order another OEM petcock or change out to a Pingel, but if you have chrome  engine hanger gap fillers you would have to sacrifice them for a Pingel petcock.
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MP
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1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2009, 04:04:48 AM »

If it won't shut off, vs not opening,  you either have to drill out rivets, replace the orings, and bolt back together, or put a new petcock on.  It is NOT the cover set.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2009, 01:21:25 PM »

If you want an electric shut off valve check with Hard6  (JP) he had some for a good price.
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Kingbee
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VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2009, 06:36:08 AM »

I'm not sure replacing those O rings is that easy.  They're a unique part in that both O rings are actually connected as one piece of rubber.
I opted for the Dan-Marc electric fuel valve.  That being said, if the petcock is leaking internally, it probably means that the reserve portion may also be leaking - meaning you may not have any reserve when you switch over to it.  Not necessarily a good thing. Probably should replace the petcock.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2009, 07:18:26 AM »

I'm not disputing what you are saying but I found my petcock was very sensitive to position to stop the flow. I had the same problem as you report and I found that the petcock did actually stop the fuel flow but there was no allowance for missed position. The click position was wide, and in the whole range, the fuel was only stopped when I positioned the knob in a very deliberate way. If you take the fuel line off and temporarily replace it with a longer test hose then you can test the petcock for what I describe and let the gasoline drain into a can rather than on your motor.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
lee
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Northeast Tennessee


« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2009, 08:53:17 AM »


Maybe this will help.
Its not likely the ball broke,  its spring loaded and sits in a keeper.
It can't get out of this keeper.
I would suggest you rinse out your tank and see how muck junk
you have picked up from service stations.  Its easy to do with a
half gallon of gas and a clean milk jug while the petcock is off.
The manual side of the petcock can get a lot of crap in it from
the tank and cause it to mal function.
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lee
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Northeast Tennessee


« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2009, 09:02:40 AM »


I try to rinse mine out every time I have the tank off.  Here is a picture of what I got the last time.
A piece of wood, some rebbery stuff, some rust.  You get this from the pumps when you fill up.
It can be a lot from filling up over a years time.  This is not a sign of a bad tank.  You will get this
stuff at the best of gas stations.
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C. Drewry
PharmBoy
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Lawton, Ok


« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2009, 11:00:43 AM »

I would suggest drilling off the cover plate leaving enough of the brads to reposition the plate.  Then you can inspect the interior and either repair it with new o-rings or buy a new fuel valve.  If repairing, you can then either drill & tap the remaining part of the brads or drill all the way through and reattach the plate with small bolts & nuts.  Either way, it doesn't cost anything to look at the interior of the fuel selector.  Shocked
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