Grease for the Splines----------What has worked for You?

[big turkey]

Share with the Group what you use on the splines and how often that you have to relube.

Black Pearl on dyno Honda Valkyrie	powered by Aeva

[Tundra]

Bel-Ray Waterproof grease, 10,000 mile intervals.

[BamaDrifter64]

+1 

Bel-Ray Waterproof grease, 10,000 mile intervals.

[six2go #152]

Guard Dog Moly Paste. Each rear tire change, usually around 20,000 miles or so.

[Daniel Meyer]

Any grease. Any at all. I use standard wheel bearing grease. Check every 10,000 miles. (140,000 and they are pristine).

The trick/secret is proper assembly. The grease is almost irrelevent.

[Pete]

 A good quality moly fortified high temperature grease. Brand not important have used several different brands, all worked well. Grease every tire change.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I've used Guard Dog moly for years however my blue and white Valkyrie is down right now in need of a rear tire , brakes and a bad left bearing ( I had the collar/spacer machined and will be going with a double roll bearing on the left side ) .Guard Dog has been good to me but I'm going to try this and check it out. SEE LINK BELOW.I just got the best mileage out of a rear tire ( Fuzion ZRi 205/55 ) that I've ever got since I bought my first Valkyrie in 1998  11,931 miles it still had some moly but nowhere near what it had when I serviced it 11,931 miles ago...Peace of mind for me is pull it every 10,000 to 11,000 miles and clean it up and re-lube.....Click the link   http://www.greengrease.net/

[valkmc]

Any grease. Any at all. I use standard wheel bearing grease. Check every 10,000 miles. (140,000 and they are pristine).

The trick/secret is proper assembly. The grease is almost irrelevent.

I agree, I use valvoline wheel bearing grease. nothing special about it. Grease her up about every 10-12k. 70k on the splines and still look new

[Sharkey]

I have been using the Lucas Red and Tacky, Its great on farm equipment too, water does not affect it much
It runs about $4 a tube at Orielly
Lucas Red 'N' Tacky Grease is a smooth, tacky, red lithium complex grease fortified with rust and oxidation inhibitors. It has good water resistance and washout properties. It has excellent mechanical stability and storage life. It is able to withstand heavy loads for extended periods of time. It can be used in many agricultural, automotive, and industrial applications. Lucas Red 'N' Tacky Grease is fortified with a high degree of extreme pressure additives that give it a TRUE Timken load much higher than other greases of this type. Its especially good for sliding surfaces and open gears.

[R J]

Bel-Ray Waterproof grease, 10,000 mile intervals.

Bel-Ray Waterproof wheel bearing grease, 10,000 to 15,000 mile intervals.

[Brad]

Any grease. Any at all. I use standard wheel bearing grease. Check every 10,000 miles. (140,000 and they are pristine).

The trick/secret is proper assembly. The grease is almost irrelevent.

Chicken fat?     

[Steve K (IA)]

Bel-Ray Waterproof grease, 10,000 mile intervals.

Same here.  

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Honda's moly 60 1st time and now running the green grease Joe is trying out. I check about every 10,000 miles.

[SlowRoad]

I used the Green Grease that Joe is looking at up until last maintenance when I switched to Guard Dog moly paste and had no noticeable wear. I let it go to 15000 miles this time  and when I pulled it apart last night, the splines have very noticeable wear and the drive shaft and pinion cup have extensive wear.      This is partially my fault for letting it go that long, but I won't be using Guard Dog again. It was dry and packed on the parts and had to be scraped off to clean them up. I bought a tub of Bel-Ray on sale the other day and will be using it or the Green Grease for reassembly this time. I am also in the market for a drive shaft and pinion cup in good shape if anyone has them lying around. Seeing the condition of these parts made me feel like I have neglected my Valk, and my wife will tell you that is not the case. I was heart broken when I pulled the rear apart.  My bike only has 45000 miles on her, so not even broken in yet.

Tim

[Paul-M]

I use the Loctite 51048 moly paste. It is better than the honda recommended paste and now you can get it for about half of what I bought it for.

http://www.amazon.com/Moly-Paste-Model-Code-Price/dp/B001HWBSJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1282741906&sr=8-1-spell

Reapply every rear tire change.

Ride Safe!

[doubletee]

Guard Dog Moly Paste. Each rear tire change, usually around 20,000 miles or so.

+1

[PharmBoy]

Guard Dog Moly Paste in Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease in a 50/50 mixture.  Hopefully getting the best of both products...JTL

[Willow]

For the first 120K+ miles I used Guard Dog moly at every rear tire change, ranging from 14K to 24K.

The last couple of changes I've used a waterproof grease.

I like the looks of what Joe posted.  I believe I'll try that next.

[big turkey]

Joe's Grease has a fallout temp of 500 Degrees and is good for farm equipment and

has a good waterproof element.

It should do as good as the Guard Dog on the fall out temp.

I think I'll stick with the moly paste 75% moly.

Honda line is 60% moly which should do the job.

Bell ray Waterproof Blue is a popular choice and maybe from evidence I have seen elsewhere and

here , waterproof may the way to go.

Joe you may have found a winner, sticking power at high temps and water proof.

NAPA is where ;you got it right?

Big AL

[big turkey]

Makes the Harley Belt system and pulleys look better and better.

If they only had the Valk Motor on their bikes.

Well the world ain't perfect and thats a fact.

Maybe I can rig a Valkyrie Engine to a Harley frame and run a belt drive.

Big Al

[Daniel Meyer]

Makes the Harley Belt system and pulleys look better and better.

Not really. Absolutely nothing wrong with the valk's drive if you put it together right (every time).

[big turkey]

Define Right,,, so we can gain from your exp.

Big AL

[six2go #152]

Define Right,,, so we can gain from your exp.

Big AL

Geez, Daniel has explained it so many times I can't imagine anyone who reads this board not seeing it.

[Willow]

Geez, Daniel has explained it so many times I can't imagine anyone who reads this board not seeing it.

Some post more than they read.    

[Tropic traveler]

I used the Green Grease that Joe is looking at up until last maintenance when I switched to Guard Dog moly paste and had no noticeable wear. I let it go to 15000 miles this time   and when I pulled it apart last night, the splines have very noticeable wear and the drive shaft and pinion cup have extensive wear.      :'( This is partially my fault for letting it go that long, but I won't be using Guard Dog again. It was dry and packed on the parts and had to be scraped off to clean them up. I bought a tub of Bel-Ray on sale the other day and will be using it or the Green Grease for reassembly this time. I am also in the market for a drive shaft and pinion cup in good shape if anyone has them lying around. Seeing the condition of these parts made me feel like I have neglected my Valk, and my wife will tell you that is not the case. I was heart broken when I pulled the rear apart.  My bike only has 45000 miles on her, so not even broken in yet.

Tim

I feel some of your pain there Tim!
My '97 has near perfect drive hub splines but Holy Smokes was the pinion cup & driveshaft worn slap out! Rusty dusty & dry as a bone, poured out an embarassing pile of rust dust on the floor. The shaft & cup splines were 50% GONE.
Still in the process of reassembly now. Bought a very nice 29K mile used shaft from Pinwall for $29.95 & a new cup & all rear end seals from HDL. Not too bad on the pocketbook but it is a healthy job to do!
BTW this is a 102,000 mile Valk.
The good. 100K hub on the left, new on the right.


The Bad.


And the Ugly.


Fix her up & keep on ridin'!!

BTW, going back together with Valvoline High Moly content grease. I will be checking the d/s splines at every tire change from now on!!!!!

[big turkey]

Well for my money I don't think there is a magic assembly technique other than leaving the pumpkin

mounting bolts loose until a person gets the axle nut tight and then tighten the pumpkin four bolts

up.

Some real magic there.

Sorry engineering is what the rear and drive is on this thing.

Oh nobody will admit that here because sometimes the truth gets lost in the Harley Haters Club.

Just my opinion and who really cares because we all have one.

Big AL

[Pete]

Well for my money I don't think there is a magic assembly technique other than leaving the pumpkin

mounting bolts loose until a person gets the axle nut tight and then tighten the pumpkin four bolts

up.

Some real magic there.

Sorry engineering is what the rear and drive is on this thing.

Oh nobody will admit that here because sometimes the truth gets lost in the Harley Haters Club.

Just my opinion and who really cares because we all have one.

Big AL

No I do not know of any "magic" assembly technique either, just careful assembly.

BUT I do disagree on the "bad design". Have had GLxxxx's with this drive design since 1975, put many miles on them, cross country and local, NEVER had  a failure. Design seems ok to me.

Could it be better - probably - but I see no glaring design defect, but I have seen neglect. Most designs cannot ultimately overcome enough neglect.

Just my 2 cents worth. 

[Daniel Meyer]

Well for my money I don't think there is a magic assembly technique other than leaving the pumpkin

mounting bolts loose until a person gets the axle nut tight and then tighten the pumpkin four bolts

up.

Some real magic there.

Sorry engineering is what the rear and drive is on this thing.

Oh nobody will admit that here because sometimes the truth gets lost in the Harley Haters Club.

Just my opinion and who really cares because we all have one.

Big AL

That is the trick. That is the only trick. This is not new. Goes back to the first wings. All the honda drives of this type need that final alignment "trick". Not complicated. Not hard. But lots of folks just plain don't do it.

[big turkey]

Thanks Danial.

For clarifying, I thought that was it, but caught some grief from some over asking a simple

question.

I also use that trick that you posted and SmokinJoe passed along to his local friends.

I use this on my Kawasaki Mean Streak and all my bikes with a drive shaft.

Thanks again for the info.

Big AL

[Tropic traveler]

I think I read the "right" way to put the Valk rear back together in the Honda service manual last night. 
Jeez, I hope I don't have to go thru this again in another 100,000 miles.