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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: compression tester & old sparkplug torque  (Read 1737 times)
Doc X
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« on: August 30, 2010, 06:16:56 AM »

What is a good cylinder compression tester that you can buy and work easily on the Valk. and what is the spark plug torque on old spark plugs, is it same as if you were putting in new plugs?
Doc X
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2010, 07:55:30 AM »

Any compression tester that will screw into the spark plug hole would be satisfactory.

After all it is mainly a comparison that you are interested in. Between all the cylinders!

Torque for spark plugs is usually in the 12 foot pounds range.
No need to over-tighten!

 And always use an anti-seize when replacing the spark plugs.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hubcapsc
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upstate

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« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2010, 08:06:40 AM »

Any compression tester that will screw into the spark plug hole would be satisfactory.

unless it reaches further down into the top-end than the spark plug  coolsmiley

-Mike
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98valk
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« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2010, 10:29:13 AM »

I bottom the plug and then 1/8 turn tighter for aluminum heads, 1/8 to 1/4 for iron heads.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Doc X
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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2010, 10:55:04 AM »

Thanks to you all.
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Doc X
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« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2010, 11:07:04 AM »

The plugs on the 2000 Valk are 12mm ?
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Patrick
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Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2010, 12:44:19 PM »

Any compression gauge should be fine,, even a hand held with a long straight neck,, especially if you're just going to use it for small jobs around the house every once in awhile..
I don't use a torque wrench that often,, but,, sticking sparklers in an aluminum head is a good place for one [ 12 #/ft]..  Never/anti-seize them and just kinda snug them if you're not using the t-wrench, especially when re-using the old crush-rings..
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2010, 05:11:00 PM »

Any compression gauge should be fine,, even a hand held with a long straight neck,, especially if you're just going to use it for small jobs around the house every once in awhile..
I don't use a torque wrench that often,, but,, sticking sparklers in an aluminum head is a good place for one [ 12 #/ft]..  Never/anti-seize them and just kinda snug them if you're not using the t-wrench, especially when re-using the old crush-rings..

Patrick, u sure no anti-seize? I have always have and always read otherwise esp. for aluminum heads.
thanks for your imput.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
RP#62
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« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2010, 05:18:26 PM »

Any compression gauge should be fine,, even a hand held with a long straight neck,, especially if you're just going to use it for small jobs around the house every once in awhile..
I don't use a torque wrench that often,, but,, sticking sparklers in an aluminum head is a good place for one [ 12 #/ft]..  Never/anti-seize them and just kinda snug them if you're not using the t-wrench, especially when re-using the old crush-rings..

Patrick, u sure no anti-seize? I have always have and always read otherwise esp. for aluminum heads.
thanks for your imput.

I think Patrick meant Never Seize/Anti-Seize.  Also, most high temp anti-seize is conductive - its either colloidal copper or colloidal nickle, so don't get and near the center electrode.  We were taught to skip the first couple of threads for this reason.
-RP
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2010, 06:35:01 AM »

Ever notice how you proof-read something you've just typed and it makes perfect sense?? That is until someone else reads it.. Thats RP#62, you're right, thats what I meant.. What I typed could be confusing,, well,, not could be,, it was.. Smiley  All you saw for years was Never-seize,, for some reason now its also become Anti-seize..I've never noticed how many companies make the stuff..
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2010, 06:49:47 AM »

Ever notice how you proof-read something you've just typed and it makes perfect sense?? That is until someone else reads it.. Thats RP#62, you're right, thats what I meant.. What I typed could be confusing,, well,, not could be,, it was.. Smiley  All you saw for years was Never-seize,, for some reason now its also become Anti-seize..I've never noticed how many companies make the stuff..

I knew what u meant just wanted u to clear it up for the rookies, for we all were dumb little snots at one time.  Grin
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #11 on: September 01, 2010, 11:11:37 AM »

I always use grease no more worry s about a miss in the engine. Also you really shouldn't use a torque wrench. Replacing plugs is the simplest of things to do if you need a wrench to do this then maybe it would be a good time to learn to properly tighten all nuts and bolts. Spark plugs if you seat them by hand to the point of contact to the crush collar and then tighten by hand you can feel the crush of the collar and the proper torque to use. On plugs with the crush collar already crushed usually you can still get something out of it if you just do the same procedure. Shure it may be a little tighter but no big deal just dont strong arm them. If you dont feel anything crushing just tighten to a good torque and forget about it. Sorry if I disagree with some but I have stripped plugs using a torque wrench they are not good for everything. This is a great example of what not to use a torque wrench on of course in my opinion. Also working on a Valkyrie should be preceded by experience in assembling and repairing of any thing that has a small gas engine on it. Its a rotten way to gain mechanical experience working on your beautiful Valkyrie possibly causing more problems. If you have some experience I say ok not much or none I say start small and learn on easy things. Jeff used to say this and I disagreed with him I have to say there are some that shouldn't be working on mechanical things at all so I had to rethink my position. 
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