|
Sodbuster
|
 |
« on: September 13, 2010, 05:18:33 PM » |
|
OK all you experienced Valk motorheads .... which bolts are hardest to remove on these machines. From all the posts I've been reading over the past year I keep hearing of several bolts that a bugger to remove. I've heard water pump bolt, alternator bolt, and one for timing belt replace. Which ones exactly are they and are there others. If I knew exactly which ones they were I'd try and nip em at the bud by removing them if I can clean them up and replace with anti seize.
Thanks,
Sodbuster
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC # 30938 '99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse" Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer. You rock !!  |
|
|
|
Thunderbolt
|
|
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2010, 05:33:26 PM » |
|
along with the ones you mentioned. It's a threaded bolt with a pin that protrudes through the swingarm and keeps the caliper mounting plate from spinning. The head is not very deep, and is easlily damaged if you don't keep your socket perfectly straight, and use a 6 point socket so that you have a long flat surface on each face.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
NITRO
|
|
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2010, 06:19:54 PM » |
|
+1 on the caliper plate bolt. Also, the exhaust headers can be a huge pain.
If you have an IS, the screws and bushings in the fairing are a PITA to get out if they haven't been removed recently.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt, ride.
|
|
|
|
Sodbuster
|
|
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2010, 06:52:20 PM » |
|
Can someone point out the difficult bolts in the following schematics ..... any help would be appreciated. Schem 1  Schem 2  Schem 3  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC # 30938 '99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse" Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer. You rock !! |
|
|
fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
|
|
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2010, 07:05:19 PM » |
|
I got a broken one that I cant get out.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
|
|
Joe Hummer
Member
Posts: 1645
VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative
Arnold, MO
|
|
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2010, 07:17:35 PM » |
|
I got a broken one that I cant get out. Was going to say the stuck one myself... |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
|
|
|
Garland
Member
Posts: 451
#618
Hendersonville NC
|
|
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2010, 04:07:25 AM » |
|
It think the crank bolt when changing timing belts has given me the most trouble. The pumpkin drain bolt is very soft and easy to mangle...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Skinhead
Member
Posts: 8727
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
|
|
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2010, 06:28:07 AM » |
|
The really tight ones!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Troy, MI |
|
|
|
Brad
|
|
« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2010, 01:51:27 PM » |
|
I got a broken one that I cant get out. Was going to say the stuck one myself... It is the one you happen to be working on at the moment  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Sodbuster
|
|
« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2010, 03:32:09 PM » |
|
OK ........ judging from the responses there are NO specific bolts that hard to remove |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC # 30938 '99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse" Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer. You rock !! |
|
|
|
RP#62
|
|
« Reply #10 on: September 14, 2010, 05:23:12 PM » |
|
Here's all the ones I remember people mentioning they had a problem getting out:
Alternator mount bolts (corroded in place)
Buzz bolt (crossmember behind radiator - high torque)
Rear brake stop bolt (high torque)
Final drive drain plug (people round it off by using 12 pt socket/wrenches)
Water pump drain bolt (bolt is soft - breaks easy)
Timing cover bolt (I think its #22 in the schematic - its sealed from the factory to prevent oil leaks, better to remove hot)
-RP
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Sodbuster
|
|
« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2010, 05:45:29 PM » |
|
Thanks RP .... That's the kind of info I was looking for.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC # 30938 '99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse" Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer. You rock !! |
|
|
|
Robert
|
|
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2010, 05:58:53 AM » |
|
The one you didn't put antisieze on  sorry couldn't help myself been there done that. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2010, 08:58:35 AM » |
|
Regarding Honda Valkyrie's, the best practice is to lay on a generous helping of anti-seize on any and all bolts that thread into aluminum. Include spark plugs in the mix!
Since vibration is practically non-existent in the Valkyrie bolts do not vibrate loose, like so many other motorcycles.
The bolts tend to react with the parent material (aluminum) through galvanic action and a long untouched bolt will lock-in quite securely.
Anti-seize is the only help in insuring that the bolt will be able to be removed without trouble.
***
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
|
donaldcc
|
|
« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2010, 06:27:19 PM » |
|
I just added passenger grab rails on Tourer from BigBikeThings.com. Very easy install, you just take the 4 longer bolts that come with rails and remove the short ones from where sissy bar/luggage rack attach. But one of the small bolts broke off.  Turned a 15-20 minute job into 2 hours. Bolts probably not off since they were initially put in. I should've squirt some WD-40 on it and had a couple of beers. Was so pissed off after I finished I had a couple of martinis instead.  felt a little better then. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Don
|
|
|
|
KerryNolan
|
|
« Reply #15 on: September 17, 2010, 06:45:23 PM » |
|
I found a couple of the exhaust header nuts very difficult to reach and remove tighten properly.
Kerry
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Cheer up, things could be worse...
Sure enough, we cheer up and things get worse.
|
|
|
|
