MultiPoint Upgrade projects: Updated 3-24-13

[fordmano]

Bought my Tourer in 05 and found this Tech site wanting to learn as much as I could about my Valk. CA and Airetime were members then and always giving help to us that ask.
If I was going to coat an intake O-ring I would use a thin film of the Dielectric grease.

With Viton O rings it may not matter what you use as lube.
For Buna O rings mineral oil or grease will cause them to swell slightly giving a better seal.
If no swelling is desired use vegetable oil. Not sure of the effect silicone grease would have.
Need to ask the question of some suppliers on that one.
Cheers Steve

I like to use vasoline for O-ring installation.

Are you sure it's the cut-off valves that are bad.

Most posts say the little tube is the culprit when leaks are present.

***

Hate to say it but I would seriously consider going back to a "known good" state, when the bike was running correctly.  It looks like you made quite a few changes to get to where you are at... 

I would go back to factory standard - undo the desmog if possible and then re-synch the carbs and start again. 

ORRR, make it as simple as possible, replace the lines with new vacume lines to ensure no leaks and start from there.

I can only envision someone reinstalling smog controls on his motorcycle, him being under extreme pressure emitted from a federal posse of a hundred men with guns drawn!

***

[fordmano]

Are you sure it's the cut-off valves that are bad.

Most posts say the little tube is the culprit when leaks are present.

***

Well the change in RPM happens when something is sprayed directly at the Air Cut Valves, it only seems to make an RPM change on 4 CARBS and now that I have 2 of them off and 1 valve tests good and one tests bad(leaks) this is using brand news rubber hose that came in the Red-Eye O-ring kit I did actually plug one end of each rubber hose and pull a vacuum and it held solid no leak. I did not notice a change in RPM when I sprayed around any other portion of the intake system except when the air box was off and I sprayed directly into the carburetor throats, that change was expected and obvious.

[fordmano]

Hate to say it but I would seriously consider going back to a "known good" state, when the bike was running correctly.  It looks like you made quite a few changes to get to where you are at...  

I would go back to factory standard - undo the desmog if possible and then re-synch the carbs and start again.  

ORRR, make it as simple as possible, replace the lines with new vacume lines to ensure no leaks and start from there.

I thought seriously about this many hours now and I keep coming back to the same conclusion. How do I "Un-Rebuild 6 CARBS" there is no way to take the CARBS backwards after a rebuild and I am not yet ready to the buy another entir CARB rack just to test this idea.  The smog could be re-installed but I need to buy some rubber tubing and would still be working on rebuilt CARBS.

[fordmano]

It's late, and I may have missed if you already thought of this.  Have you checked the rubber boots where the airbox slides into the intakes?  Very-very easy to fold the boots over when you're trying to put the airbox back on.  Since you're shooting ether in that general area, wonder if it's getting in there?  If you haven't checked yet, it's easy.  Run your finger behind the boot  and you'll feel if it's wrong.

[fordmano]

Update as of 4-26-2011

Ok I got the carbs all gone through again, did not find very much really wrong.

the Air Cut valves are a little out of spec from what info is provided by Rich at Red-Eye (this is from his documentation I did not call him for more info so it may be interpretation) says that air should pass through valve freely and when 15in of vacuum is applied they should cut off the air flow.

Well maybe my Mity-Vac is wrong but I only had one that shut off completely when 16in was applied and the other were shut off from about 18in -19in so I think that is probably OK since what is the likely hood of all of them really being bad? So I just pulled everything apart and cleaned with spray carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air and used the Dielectric grease as suggested on EVERY rubber component installed new rubber pieces including the intake boot between carbs and intake tubes.
I did fine 1 mixture screw adjusted WAY wrong,, it was almost 4 turns out, dummy me did not re-check all of them only the last one I worked on, but I did make 100% sure they are all at 1-3/4 turns out. All the jets looked clean and would pass air through them but I pressure cleaned them anyway.

I also noticed that the intake boots all looked like they were pinched a little bit  in one area (kind of bunched up) I guess I managed to get the clamps off of the little location nub/nipple. This would explain an air leak.

Hopefully I will get the rest of the fuel system installed this week and fire her back up by the end of the weekend.

[fordmano]

this problem has been going on to long now,,,
are all the plugs firing at the correct time?
cross wired maybe?
you did use the word backfire as i recall,,,,

[fordmano]

I totally agree, this has taken WAY to long but I just don't have time or proper work area and the wife considers the bike as a secondary mode of transportation/commuting so I am stuck with at best a couple hours in an entire week and each time I work on the bike I have to pull all the parts and tools back out and get organized then spend whatever few minutes I have to work on whatever is at hand then clean up and put everything away again. Sucks to be me when it comes to projects of any type.

Yes it did have a backfire on occasion but I think that part was solved when I figured out that I must have wired one coil backwards. I am pretty sure it is/was vacuum leak excessive air intake. Hopefully I will be able to try a fire up this weekend.

[fordmano]

WOOOOOOOooooooooo HOOOOOOoooooooo


She breaths fire once again,,, first off NO I do not know for sure exactly what was wrong but it seems mostly fixed now.

There was only one thing that I ran across that really seemed that it would be a culprit and that is the 1 Pilot screw that was set out at around 4 turns,,, Well I only thought to check this on the very last carb I dis-assembled (dumb on me) anyway I don’t know how I had this one so far out and I also don’t know if maybe there were others adjusted incorrectly. I also am not sure if maybe I had a air leak at the rubber boots between multiple carb throats and air box bottom, also I had 1 intake O-Ring that looked funny when I pulled it out of the groove. The only thing that was specifically done differently was I used silicone Dielectric grease to hold ALL the O-Rings in place and help seal them. It even said the Dielectric grease was and O-Ring sealer, look for yourself.


Look closely it does say it "SEALS O-RINGS"....


Now here is the full rack re-assembled and cleaned and even lubed up on all parts that contact any rubber surfaces carb throat and exit I also picked up all new rubber boots that sit between carb and intake runners, there were some that did look like they had been squeezed funny on the inside.




And here is the video from the first fire up I had a little problem with the Dan-Mark fuel valve. I just could not get fuel to the bowls even opened the drains to verify if ANY fuel was getting to the carbs. Nope no fuel ok stick my ear down close nope no click of the Dan-mark valve opening when key is turned on.  Verify I have 12v+ at the supply from aux panel, yes full voltage, ok use a needle to puncture the wire close to the valve and yep 12v+ there also so lets check the ground side,,,,,,,, OH HELL, I found that I had originally used the same screw that holds the forward coil to the frame and this time it had slipped behind the frame and I missed it. So I attach the ground wire and hit key switch Yahooooo the valve clicks open and closed now with the key. Pulled the temporary fuel line and put the Dan-mark pack inline and installed the fuel tank opened petcock and turn key switch on and gave it  a second hit the starter button, COOL she fires up little rough idle and a fare amount of bluish smoke from both sides. But it will run now at any RPM.

[fordmano]

Thanks to all that offered suggestions advice directions and especially thank you to Gordon V. who actually offered to send me a few spare parts to test with.

Gordon, Thank you so much for your extra effort in trying to assist a fellow VRCC brother.

Now for the completion of re-assembly of the rest of the Fat Lady.

I have to fine tune the carburetion a little bit also.
After 5-10 minutes of revving her up and letting her idle just getting a little bit warm she seems to idle about as perfect as she ever has. Although I am still getting a little bit of that bluish smoke from the left bank and an occasional little POP from the right side bank. The pop seems like it is a lean pop and the left smoke I think maybe just residue from all the messing around with the Seafoam (I hope) So I will try a synch on the carbs and see if I can figure out which cylinder is creating the pop and maybe just richen it up a little bit on the pilot screw then fill the tank about 1/2 way and run a strong batch of Techron or maybe sea foam and go for a ride around the neighborhood and a little blast down the highway and see how she is doing. Some of the smoke may also be from excessive use of Dielectric grease inside of the carbs and all the passage ways that contact any rubber parts.

It does seem like the pop is at any RPM range and a little bit worse when I let off the throttle it happens a bit worse. But it is just audible at idle and it feels to just have a harsh feeling/sounding type of thing than before and from other motors I have built I would guess this feeling is from MORE horsepower you guys that have built hot motors probably know that sound/feeling.


I will copy just about all of this over to my Multipoint thread as to help keep all my work localized to one location. I hope this is not a problem I will also copy all of this over to the Local bike forum I am a member of the operator/sole admin over there asked me to mirror the Multippoint thread there and I have .

Thanks again.

[fordmano]

Getting back on track "AGAIN", I hooked up my home built Synch gauge setup and started her up this afternoon.

She was actually very close only had to touch 3 carbs at all and each of them were moved less than 1/2 turn.

Here is the right bank.

Cylinder #5

Cylinder #3

Cylinder #1

Those look fairly close.

[fordmano]

And now for the Left Bank.

Cylinder #2


Cylinder #4


Cylinder #6

Again they all seem very close this is a nice starting place.

[fordmano]

And here is a little video clip of how it idles now after the Carb Synch.

	powered by Aeva

Seems like that little POP from the right bank has gone mostly away, only noticed it when I ran her up to 6,000 RPM and when you let off the throttle it has some tiny little almost crackle sounding pops.
Maybe it is still just a tad bit lean on 1 cylinder on the right Bank. I will pull the plugs after I have gotten a few miles on it and see what they tell me.

My weekend starts tomorrow so hopefully I can finish up the Cruise control install and the Amplifier install then she can come down off the Jacks and jack stands. after that just a couple pieces of chrome that need to go on and re-install the rest of the fairing.... Can't wait to get back in her saddle again.

[fordmano]

Today's update is as follows,,,,,

Amplifier install has been put on temporary hold just too much going on right now at home and I really need to get back in the wind with my FatLady. So I will be finishing up with the cruise control today and the Kuryakyn LED volt meter and get the bike off the jack and the jack stands really praying to ride her to work tonight. Be back in a little bit with a few more pictures of the crisis control and the buttoning up of the pods and fairing. I will be back at the amplifier install maybe this coming weekend.

[fordmano]

Here is what was accomplished today, not a lot but it sure seems like everything really takes about 4-5 times as long as it does in my head.

So let’s get the primary items that I promised to get done listed up here.
(the cruise control was not touched today as expected)


The LED voltage meter as you might remember I moved my factory installed Fog/Pod lights switch from the left pod to the 3 switch panel I installed on the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Well here is the LED Voltage meter installed and powered up, I left the plastic wrap on it for now until I get everything done so it will look new as long as possible may it only be a few extra days.
I picked up my ground on the frame near the mount for the forward coil mount easy and out of the way from anything.

Figured I would go ahead and install the chrome on this side but I have decided to wait to install the chrome spark plug wire covers for now I will address this later since the other side is a bit boogered up I may need to replace both sides with a new set so why do the install twice right?
And now for the lights all on picture.


And here is the look from the front,,, Gotcha this is just to prove the replacement PIAA bulb was installed in this FOG/POD light the other side is still fine so I only swapped this side out for now, and got the Volt meter installed and the POD back fully in place.
Here is the picture of Both PODs back on and all my extra forward lights working again. I was having a little trouble with the set below the triple tree found I had a bad connecter at eth aux power panel coming from the supply relay that feeds the switch that controls this set of lights.

[fordmano]

Ok I went ahead and got another piece or Chrome re-installed.

Being the ever so SMART type of guy I am I installed the cruise control cable in between CARB 3 and 5 as many other have done but I used the bracket from the motor mount and not the "L" bracket that many others have done. Well with doing this and not having my chrome Tranny/starter cover installed I found out the hard way today when I tried to install it that it WILL NOT fit with my current bracket in place. SO either I pull a BUTT load of stuff back out and curse myself with that damn air box again or pull out my trusty Dremel tool. I voted and won with the decision of using my Dremel and relieving the areas I needed to.

I will try and let the picture explain what went on but if I can think of anything that might add to a picture I will surely type it into place for you.


Can anyone see the HUGE MISTAKE I made while using my Dremel (rotary tool).

This next picture might help you see my oops, Yep I removed my oil/Temp dipstick and did not cover up the dipstick hole. I ran a small magnet down the hole after I realized the hole was lightly covered around it with metal shavings.. I guess an oil change is the first thing to do after I get the bike off the jack stands.

All better now I even used rubber O-Rings to help buffer the vibrations that some have spoken of that sometimes come from these Chrome covers.

[gordonv]

Is the end of the dip stick metal? Could you not magnetize it?

[fordmano]

Is the end of the dip stick metal? Could you not magnetize it?

Oops, I forgot to thank you and answer you yesterday when I saw this.
That is a good idea surely it will help some, I will be trying to do that this afternoon when I get up. I plan on doing an oil change before her next fire up.

I just kicked her off the jack stands last night and found that I had a loose connection on one side of the air lines on the 416's ran her up to 45lbs so I will check to see if she holds pressure in the air shock also this afternoon.

Sorry I did not take pictures of her down off the jacks or while she was coming off them,,, I figure everyone could tell what that would look like.

I did notice that after not sitting on my FatLady for over 6 months now and seeing her up on the jack and jack stands so long, damn these bikes have a low seat height.

[fordmano]

To all you faithfull followers of this thread,,,, I must appologize from the bottom of my heart. I am so sorry that this has gone on so long sometimes our lives just become boogered up for a while....

Well I think I am back on track and I think the only things I have to do is wire up the rear portion (rear channels) of the amp and re-install the fairing and all of it's components. Then ride.... My birthday is this Friday the 27th and I will ride this bike for my Birthday even if it runs poorly. Here are a few pictures to get this thread rolling again.

[fordmano]

Here is what the amp looked like before I did some modifications for space and attachment purposes.



And here is the start of mods.

[fordmano]

I ended up ditching my first mounting platter, just could not get it figured out in a way I was happy with and after trying the last time to re-mod it I had stressed the aluminum too much and the edges and mounting ears started breaking off. So gone it was, and then I figured out I could use a small screw turned upside down and some washers and nuts in the creases between the cooling fins on the amp for a mounting tab instead of the side flaps that normally are used. I also figured out I had to relieve some of the cooling fins to fit snuggly over the wireing cable for the I/S dash panel.


And now this is before I figured out I had to rotate the amp to give speaker wiring clearance so as to not pinch or break off from contact with the Cruise Control unit.



This is the side view of the newly designed mount and the amp side wired up.



I dont know the proper name for this or what you might prefer it called but I call it a soft on switch basically relay that pickes up the low voltage on a speaker wire then sends a signal to your amp to turn on with a 2 second delay to prevent the evil pop noise.

[fordmano]

I will be back tomorrow night with some more pictures and information..


Before I leave for the night let me thank "John U." and Skinnhead for helping me with this portion of the bike Chrome lower fork leg covers.. Thanks guys they are fabulous.

.

They were a challenge to get on with the fender guard but I figured it out a little bending a little grinding and a bit of drilling....

[giggles]

all i have to say..with all those extras..you better have a damn good altenator..when i had a set of 35 watt running lights on my i/s..just turning them on would send my altenator from 14.2 volt down to 13.1. i would hook a volt meter to that battery when your done and actually check your voltage while turning on all your assesories one by one. if you load that altenator down to far..you will burn it out..i went threw 3 altenator before removing those 35 watt running lights.
my other assesories that are on all the time are.
inline signal booster for my xm
xmradio
electric fuel shutoff solenoid

[fordmano]

Thanks for the warning there "giggles".

I think I will be fine I finally got the bike fully assembled today and was able to roll it back and forth across my back yard patio. While doing this I was able to test that with EVERYTHING turned on at idle I am running between 13.2v-13.4v and when I rev it up over 1,400-1,500 it was sitting at 14.1v.

Although I will probably never have everything running at the same time. the only things powered up ALL the time will be the headlights (35watts each with the new HID units) the 4 channel amplifier and the fuel solenoid. The added rear lights are all LED so those are just about NULL everything else is manually controlled I think well the AUX power panel that has all those relays on will be getting powered up any time the key is in an on position.

[fordmano]

SO It is done,,, Hopefully not too many adjustments will be needed. Tomorrow morning I will pick up a few gallons of fresh fuel and go for a ride. It's my 46th Birthday tomorrow 5-27 and I get my FatLady back on the road should be a good day.

SO I cant wait too show you the Money shot, I do have a few more photos to share mostly self explainatory show off stuff but everyone like pictures so I hope you have gotten something or will get something out of all my pictures and such a spread out long project.

So there ya go the MONEY shot Baby.
I did not even wash her up for her debut photo shoot. Tomorrow after I take her around the block a time or two I will bring her home and wash and shine her then a few shots after that.

[fordmano]

If you would like to view ALL of my pictures here is the link to the photo album. Some may enjoy some may not. PLEASE BE WARNED THERE ARE OVER "780" pictures.

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae222/fordmano/Valkyrieupgradeprojects2010/?albumview=slideshow&track=share_email_album_view_click
This is setup as a slide show but you can probably figure out how to browse the entire album if you really want to see it that way.

I thank you all from the bottom of my heart for all your support and I thank you for following along during this adventure, this has been my largest project ever undertaken other than trying to start a family.

[fordmano]

Oops, I forgot a couple of items for the finish up, I have a filter roll for the air vent under the windshield and I also have a Vinyl BRA for the fairing, I guess those can wait until she is all cleaned up.

[fordmano]

Has anyone looked at the views of this thread count???????

Out of member started threads I believe this one is the longest (highest count of views) for any thread on the Tech board.


8542 views as of 10:18pm 5-26-2011 WOW!!!

[gordonv]

Even though we are both in the same time zone, and you might even still be online since you just posted, I wish you a very Happy Birthday for tomorrow and it has been a great pleasure to read your postings and follow your story. You have a simple flare for writting, I wish I had better.

Just a note on the fairing Bra. Others have mentioned that the bra will rub on the paint and wear or scratch it. Have you heard this, or are you adding any protection to yours?

I was going to do the same on my IS, but you know what happend to mine.

[fordmano]

Thank you for the B-day wish. Yes I am still online actually I do most of this at work from my desk , working night shift has some benifits.

Yes I have heard that some say the paint will not fade at the rate the rest of the bike fades at, or it will wear the paint in areas on the fairing or will scratch is something happens to get under it...

Well I like the look of the Bra and I figure if it ever gets ruined and has to be removed then I will either replace it or maybe it will be time to re-paint the big girl.

P.S. Gordon again thank you for your efforts to help me through this project, I won't forget your efforts or the others that made some of this possible

[Lt.Gene]

Hey Fordmano, have a happy birthday and it has been fun watching you advance on your project.  I see you're in San Jose-I live in Gilroy.  Perhaps I may run into you at some point.  By the way, I have had a bra on my '99 Interstate for a couple of years now and just pulled it off-no paint damage at all that I could tell.  Anyway, great job, I'm sure you're proud of your effort. 

[fordmano]

Lt.Gene,

Thank you for the B-Day wish also. You are correct I am in San Jose just right up the big road from you.
You just might see me if your out and about on Saturday I plan on running out to Hollister Honda to show the guys all the work and hopefully brag about the Fork rebuild they did for me. Probably test drive a couple bikes, probably a 2012 wing and the new CB1000R or the VFR1200DCT. I will probably let the GM Fred try out my Valk, he says besides the ST1300 and the Wing the Valk has been his all time favorite and the Interstate is the only model he has never test ridden.

Let's catch some wind sometime.

[fordmano]

So as yesterday passed I was able to get the bike all washed up, could be a bit shinier but sooooo much better looking than it has been in almost 7 months.

Around 11:00pm I finally took the big girl out. The family decided it was best for me to sleep in the morning since I had just done a full shift at work. Then when I got up it was bike detailing time. Found a loose connector on my aux fuse panel. It turned out to be the fuse socket it self in the sealed fuse panel. Damn how to fix that since I can't get inside of it now? How about a little tweak on the blades fuses legs so I ever so slightly twisted both sides so I think that is all taken care of,,, it was the circuit that supplies the power to my amplifier,, that was a gotta fix it item.

Well above 3,300rpm or so this big girl knows how to pull. BUTTTTTttttt from just off idle up to that 3,300 area she is only running on 4 or 5 cylinders at least that's how it sounds and feels. Figure a bad slowjet. I filled the tank with fresh 91octane and a full bottle of Techron ran her around for about 1/2 hour in the neighborhood and tried to keep her below 3k but that was hard to do. She was really impressive above 3,500 all the way to RedLine. I will let the Techron soak in over night and see how she is in the morning. Oh, idle is perfect sounding and feeling but RPM's increase better than 300 after full warmup, that leaves me at around 1,300-1,400rpm idle speed.

I did get some popping on Decelration so I guess I better check exhaust nuts also. The new suspension seems almost perfect, maybe a few more lbs in the 416's and I managed to forget the check tires air pressure so I need to do that also in the morning.

Pictures of full clean up and everything installed as I would if I was commuting on her, probably tomorrow night for some new shiny pictures. Maybe I can get the wife and kids to get an action picture on the Highway?

[fordmano]

I have been through just about every emotion with all of this work.

Just about the last update for this entire project list although I have added a couple more items since the last update to my list of to do and now most of those are done also.

1 )    New Front tire, AVON.    (DONE)
2 )   New Rear tire, AVON.   (DONE)
3 )   New Front brake pads.    (DONE)
4 )   New Rear brake pads.   (DONE)
5 )   New Rubber dampers in the final drive of the rear wheel. (DONE)
6 )   New Galfer Braided SS clutch line (DONE)
7 )   New Galfer Braided front brake line. (DONE)
8 )   New Galfer Braided rear brake line. (DONE)
9 )   New Galfer DOT4 brake fluid in all lines. (DONE)
10)   New O-Rings rear drive, all 3 O-Rings (DONE)
11)   New LED turns signals added under bags. (DONE)
12)   New LED extra brake lights. (DONE)
13)   New Rear under Trunk Brake light with Air inlet for shocks. (DONE)
14)   New Rear Progressive 416 Air shocks with new mounting hardware. (DONE)
15)   Install completely custom rebuilt RaceTech front forks. (DONE)
16)   New Chrome master cylinder covers Clutch & Brake. (DONE)
17)   Flush and refill radiator coolant. (DONE)
18)   Remove all smog related equipment. (DONE)
19)   Install new Pingel Petcock. (DONE)
20)   Install Chrome accents on Intake runners. (DONE)
21)   Clean up intake runner internal walls. (DONE)
22)   Install new intake runner O-Rings. (DONE)
23)   Install HID headlights. (DONE)
24)   Modify and install new Polk Audio front speakers. (DONE)
25)   Rebuild carbs and install all new O-rings and rubber pieces. (DONE)
26)   Install new #38 and #105 Carb jets. (DONE)
27)   Modify Battery compartment for Cruise control install. (DONE) (changed mind will mount in fairing)
28)   Install Battery tender adapter cable. (DONE)
29)   Replace Differential fluid with Synthetic. (DONE)
30)   Cleanup repaint and beautify Stebel air horn and remount. (DONE)
31)   Install new switch block for forward lighting. (DONE)
32)   Install new Voltage meter. (DONE)
33)   Install 400watt Pyle 4 channel amplifier. (DONE)
34)   Install power block under seat and under fairing for lighting switches and amplifier power routing. (DONE)
35)   Install my Dan-Mark electric fuel shut off valve. (DONE)
36)   Install Chrome fork leg lower covers. (DONE)
37)   Install Chrome Cam end covers. (DONE)
38)   Install additional 3 port cigarette lighter power ports under bar risers. (DONE)
39)   Install chrome trunk key lock ring/cover. (DONE)
40)   Repair/install new yellow fog light under air scoop on left side under crash bar. (DONE)
41)   Install new Chrome license plate frame. (DONE)
42)   Oil change using the newly chrome painted Walmart oil filter ST3593A, and Shell Rotella-T, 5-40w synthetic Diesel motor oil. (DONE)



Still to finish on my list.
1)   Install cruise control system. (partial) need to hook up the vacuum line, have a “NEW” idea how this might be done so I need to wait until I have proven the bike is running perfectly before I start monkeying around the with the vacuum system on all the carbs.
2)   Re-Sync the carbs after all the cruise control is completely installed.
3)   I may try and get a fellow rider that owns a shop to use his tail pipe sniffer to verify my fuel mixture is close to correct and adjust the jets and needles if needed later.
4)   Install new Chrome spark plug wire covers. Ordered waiting for delivery.
5)   install Chrome carb bank end covers. Ordered waiting for delivery.
6)   Install new Dynatek coils. Waiting for me to purchase a Dynatek 3000 ICM need to get the VRCC member his money for this item.
7)   Install Billet aluminum radiator cap. Waiting for delivery.
   Install Kuryakyn chrome brake pedal cover. Waiting for delivery.
9)   Install the new Chrome trunk luggage rack and bag on the trunk lid. Waiting for me to order the larger rubber insulated chrome washers to help spread the load over the trunk lid a little bit better than the stock skinny rack legs.


Again thanks for following along with all of this, I truly hope something in here helps at least one person with a project or sparks a cool idea for an upgrade.

Please if you have a bunch of time to spare take a look at my library of photos over on photobucket.com you can use the link I posted earlier for a slide show, just click on the arrow on the right hand side of the screen and roll through them at your own speed. There are now over 825 pictures posted there from all of this work.

WOW!!! Well over 40 changes made to my bike and it only took me 7.5 months to get her back on the road and running as what seems correctly and reliably again.

[fordmano]

P.S. I rode the big girl to work this evening and she has plenty of SMOOTH get up and go now all the way up to 100 indicated.
I need to play with the tire air pressure and the rear 416 's air pressure also, the ride is smooth and all but I think it is a bit harsher than I expected.




There she is in all of her current glory.....

[fordmano]

WOW!!! over 9,000 views. Top that you other post monsters.

[Bone]

 

[fordmano]

Just for a bit more fun here are some more pictures of what has been accomplished.

[fordmano]

[fordmano]

[fordmano]