VALKYRIE U JOINT UPDATE
Jeff K:
I think some here are not clear that this is just the U-joint, not a whole part that is a direct swap out.
The OEM piece is two splined yokes, and a Universal joint, they are pre-assembled and meant to be un-rebuildable.
The caps of the joint are "staked in" So you have to do some work on the yokes to get the old joint out, and then you have to do something to keep the new caps in place. I'm not sure how much I like the spot weld idea, unless they spot the yoke and not the cap. but you have to have a method of holding the cap in. The Spicer 430-9A is meant to be held in place by C clips on the inside of the caps. Our yokes are not machined to accept that type of clip.
Back when I attempted the only joint that was available that would fit our yoke was out of a Honda Odessy It had the same out side dimensions, but the pin dia inside the cup was smaller. I assume that the "new" CRV joint is stronger?
So, it may be a good alternative to a stock piece, but it is not an "out of the box" replacement.
It would be best to have a drive shop replace the joint if you don't have the tools or skills.
Jeff K:
I have also read on some other boards that the replaced staked in joints (for many different vehicles) can have a short life due to improper centering, if the joint is not perfectly centered it will vibrate and cause an early failure.
2qmedic:
Quote
The Spicer 430-9A is meant to be held in place by C clips on the inside of the caps. Our yokes are not machined to accept that type of clip.
The u joint is matched up with the dimentions of the yoke. It is how the caps and u-joint are machined to fit within the yoke dimentions that are important.
gordonv:
Honda CR-V link.
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=21029&page=2
Haven't looked over the link they referred to yet.
Redline +:
Quote from: Jeff K on October 13, 2010, 05:17:27 AM
I think some here are not clear that this is just the U-joint, not a whole part that is a direct swap out.
The OEM piece is two splined yokes, and a Universal joint, they are pre-assembled and meant to be un-rebuildable.
The caps of the joint are "staked in" So you have to do some work on the yokes to get the old joint out, and then you have to do something to keep the new caps in place. I'm not sure how much I like the spot weld idea, unless they spot the yoke and not the cap. but you have to have a method of holding the cap in. The Spicer 430-9A is meant to be held in place by C clips on the inside of the caps. Our yokes are not machined to accept that type of clip.
Back when I attempted the only joint that was available that would fit our yoke was out of a Honda Odessy It had the same out side dimensions, but the pin dia inside the cup was smaller. I assume that the "new" CRV joint is stronger?
So, it may be a good alternative to a stock piece, but it is not an "out of the box" replacement.
It would be best to have a drive shop replace the joint if you don't have the tools or skills.
Jeff is right, this is not a DIY operation, centering is the problem. I don't like the tack weld idea either. If the joint is of sufficient strength and quality and if the inside clip groove dimension is wider than the yokes the yokes could be machined for the clips. But this would not be cheap.
I own an automotive machine shop and have built drivelines in the past. I don't have any extra Valk yokes to look at but this may be an option. If it looks doable send me some yokes and I'll estimate cost.
Redline 8)
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