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Author Topic: Another Desmog Question  (Read 2622 times)
hueco
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Posts: 347

WACO,TEXAS


« on: November 14, 2010, 10:37:40 AM »

Red Eye Tech sells their regular desmog kit. Where you remove the PAIR valve and reed assemblies and cap off the air pipes and leave all the plumbing in place. I want to keep a stock appearance.
My question is instead of capping air pipes why can't I use a piece of rubber tube and clamps to connect the air pipes to each other? Seems like it would achieve the same purpose. Forgive my ignorance. Thanks.
http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/4871335/regular-desmog-kit-version-2-for-honda
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2010, 01:50:38 PM »

My suggestion would be to do a proper de-smog.. In shop talk or the archives is our very own Normands [Quexpress] article on the subject.. Its the best article ever done on this matter.. Everything can be bought locally and cheaply at your friendly local parts store..
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Chillerman
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Posts: 689


Golden, CO


« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2010, 04:51:32 PM »

Red Eye Tech sells their regular desmog kit. Where you remove the PAIR valve and reed assemblies and cap off the air pipes and leave all the plumbing in place. I want to keep a stock appearance.
My question is instead of capping air pipes why can't I use a piece of rubber tube and clamps to connect the air pipes to each other? Seems like it would achieve the same purpose. Forgive my ignorance. Thanks.
http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/4871335/regular-desmog-kit-version-2-for-honda


Well, for one, there are six of them.  Which ones are you going to connect to the others?  I don't know what connecting them to each other would do.  I would just cap them off.
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hueco
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Posts: 347

WACO,TEXAS


« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2010, 05:45:43 PM »

My suggestion would be to do a proper de-smog.. In shop talk or the archives is our very own Normands [Quexpress] article on the subject.. Its the best article ever done on this matter.. Everything can be bought locally and cheaply at your friendly local parts store..

Thank you Patrick. Yes. That is a very good article by Quexpess. I want to keep stock appearance and be able to revert back to EPA specs if necessary.
Red Eye Tech sells their regular desmog kit. Where you remove the PAIR valve and reed assemblies and cap off the air pipes and leave all the plumbing in place. I want to keep a stock appearance.
My question is instead of capping air pipes why can't I use a piece of rubber tube and clamps to connect the air pipes to each other? Seems like it would achieve the same purpose. Forgive my ignorance. Thanks.
http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/4871335/regular-desmog-kit-version-2-for-honda


Well, for one, there are six of them.  Which ones are you going to connect to the others?  I don't know what connecting them to each other would do.  I would just cap them off.

You are correct. There are six of them. I was talking about connecting the ones on the left side to the corresponding ones on the right side. Trying to think outside the box so to speak. Thanks.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2010, 09:21:59 AM »

You can do that.  Cap off by connecting with tubing.

Keep in mind that a backfire can possibly blow off any of the tubes and you will then have to access again to replace the tubing.

Normally there is very little pressure, negative or positive, at the ends of the tubes but what you are mainly doing is to stop exhaust from emitting at the ends of the tubes.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
fudgie
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2010, 10:52:57 AM »

I'd either do it all or leave it alone. It still has a stock appearance but no one looks for desmoged parts when looking at your bike. You might be grandfathered in if the EPA comes in anyway.
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Rocketman
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Seabrook, Texas


« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2010, 11:47:20 AM »

I made an attempt to do exactly what you are thinking.  Well, not exactly, but awful close.
I put caps on, but never did try the tube thing.  I don't see that there's much difference between either approach, although the tubes might reduce the pressure pulses at the end of the pipes.
Yes, there is enough pressure up there to cause a problem.  I had to put hose clamps on mine to keep it from leaking, and then the rubber didn't survive the heat (?) very long.  They cracked and failed after a short time, and I was continually replacing them.  I won't do it that way again.

Mark
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