His instructions are pretty good.
The right front air tube (the metal one) behind the timing case is best done by cutting it. To remove it means taking the front timing covers and right timing belt pulley off to remove it in one piece. Cut it in two and toss it in the trash (along with all the other stuff that comes off). He mentions this in the instructions.
All else is straight-forward and not complicated. You may want to put some blue Loctite on the screws/bolts when you install the plates/caps from the kit. There will be more CHROME too!
When you do the fuel disconnect be careful not to kink the hose that comes in the kit.
Allow a half hour more than you think-take your time and it'll be done!
Think of the money you'll save not replacing all the vacuum lines!
Ricoman talked me into desmogging with a shiny kit. I still haven't forgiven him.........
Seriously, I'm a basic wrench, and got it done. It wasn't complicated, but if you haven't poked around in your Valk much, take your time. There are 3 hoses coming off the airbox. I missed one of them, and it stayed on the box, but came off a Tee behind the alternator. Was a little tricky getting the Tee hooked back up with my fat hands.
On the left rear you install a plate and gasket. The allen head screws come out with not too much trouble, but it was a nightmare getting them back in. The exhaust pipes are in the way. Looking back, I could have saved time and grief by dropping the exhaust. If you have small hands, or are particularly nimble, maybe it's not so bad. Just keep it in the back of your mind.
You're pulling 4 intakes, so you may as well replace those O-rings. I went ahead and pulled the other 2 and put O-rings in there too. If you ever wanted to adjust your pilots, it's very easy to do with the intakes out of the way. (I did)
All of my drain hoses wouldn't stay on any more, so I replaced them at the same time. Put a new Vacuum line on the fuel shunt (petcock) for grins and giggles.
The airbox is a female dog to get out. Mine needed to be tipped up at the back a little, and the box slid down, and lifted up. I took loose the sensor on the left side next to the box. There is a thread here describing how to "hog tie" the airbox tubes so that it will go in better. When I tried, the string kept slipping down and the tubes went back to their natural position. I ended up using 3 pieces of string, and tied each tube with the one across from it. Between that, and the lack of smog junk, it slipped right back in. I used a ratchet strap through the opening at the front of the box to pull it down tight so I could reconnect the clamps.
As you go to reinstall the airbox, you may see two hoses (in the bike under where the box is going) with their ends just sitting in the air, with no place whatsoever to connect. Don't panic. Behind the carbs on each side, those hoses go from a tee to a bracket with 2 holes in it. Those hoses just drop in the bracket, and don't connect to anything.
On the right front are two tubes. One is short, and the other is the one Ricoman told you about, which goes behind the timing belt cover. The instructions have you pulling the short one first. That means when you hacksaw the long one, all those shavings will go down into the opening from the removed short tube. So stuff a piece of a rag in it before you start cutting. I would also stuff rags into the openings from the intakes. Many years ago, I dropped a small socket with an extension on it into the spark plug hole on a car of mine. Not fun. Might save you a major headache.
I had to loosen my engine savers to get some of this stuff out. The saver responded well to influence from the prying of large screw drivers. But when it's all said and done, some of that was a real pain. probably would have been easier just to take the case saver off.
Anyway, I'm a basic wrench, and got it done. It was more time consuming then it should have been, but it's done, and the bike does run a little better.
