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Author Topic: Valk coolant leak  (Read 2920 times)
billyjakester
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« on: December 27, 2010, 10:24:18 AM »

2000 Std Valk (46,000 miles) resting on centerstand.  Starting to see coolant on the bottom of the timing cover (left side) and quarter size drop on the floor.  I've placed paper towels in several places (below the radiator, hoses, etc.) to try and locate the source.  Everything else remains dry.  Does anyone have any ideas where the coolant is coming from?

thanx,
flames314
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2010, 10:34:45 AM »

Most likely its the top hose......connection at the thermostat.  Use a flashlight on the left side just forward of the carbs to see the thermostat housing.  The light will glisten off any wet if its there. 

To tighten, remove the top bolt holding the radiator, lean it forward and reach in there with a flex drive extension and its cake
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2010, 11:34:19 AM »

With a good flashlight and a little perseverance you ought to be able to find the source of the leaking antifreeze.

If it's a hose leaking due to a loose clamp simply tightening it can work to stop the leak but a little word of caution.

Hose clamps are not user friendly when it comes to additional tightening when having been static for a number of years.  A little too much turning of the barrel screw will bend and deform the threads in the band material and render the clamp useless.

A few drops of oil on the clamp barrel screw and a general loosening of the clamp band that has attached itself (bonded) to the hose material will assure you can tighten the clamp properly spreading the force of the clamp around the whole circumference of the hose and stop the leaking.

Happy New Year!

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Black Dog
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Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2010, 11:52:27 AM »

Another thing to consider is the possibility of one or more of the 'O' rings, involved with the thermostat housing tubes leaking...  I had a leak that came and went with how warmed up the bike was.  I removed the radiator, in order to get access to the thermostat housing (removing the 'crossmember' in front of the housing will keep you sane, hint, hint  uglystupid2 ) and found two of the fittings leaking.  Replacing all of the tapered 'O' rings (part #'s 11 & 12), thermostat (part # 1), thermostat gasket (part # 2) and hoses (upper and lower), fixed the problem, and gave me piece of mind...

Remember, unless you've changed the parts earlier, they are going on 11 years old...  Good time to treat yer Lady to some TLC  cooldude



Black Dog
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fudgie
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« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2010, 06:36:17 PM »

could just be the cold also. Once it warms up, it may be fine.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #5 on: December 27, 2010, 08:02:27 PM »

I have yet to remove the cross member to get at the thermostat. As for the leak, is it coming from the weep hole in the water pump. If so, your pump is failing. Have you replaced your coolant in recent months, and if so, did you use the right kind of coolant? Either use the Honda stuff made for the bikes, or be sure the commercial coolant doesn't have any silicates or phosphates. It has to be free of that stuff or it will ruin your water pump bushings. Last I knew, the orange stuff met those requirements.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2010, 06:46:53 AM »

so, where was the leak coming from?  We are on pins and needles waiting.  LOL  2funny
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billyjakester
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2010, 12:38:33 PM »

Update for everyone who was kind enough to respond
1. found top of upper radiator hose slightly wet at connection - lubed clamp and re-tightened
2. tilted radiator forward, removed cross brace (thanx for the clue) found the O.D. of the hose/clamp  coming into the top of the thermostat - wet.  Assume this needs more than tightening, plan to replace hose, clamps, and 'O' rings as suggested previously (thanx)
3. water pump and hose connections dry - no action
4. throttle sticks slightly - any recommendations for type of lube?  Has anyone used a cable lube tool they can suggest?
5. Previously, I've purchased parts from Honda Direct Line - does anyone have any other vendors they would recommend?
6. Also forgot, does anyone have any shortcuts for removing the radiator?
Thanx for everyone's help and Happy New Year,

Bill
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2011, 07:14:14 AM »

The throttle likes to get sticky right there at the bends in the chrome at the throttle housing assembly.

Lift the top piece and squirt a few drops of oil, inside the housing where the inner cable enters the chrome tube and it should free right up.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
BudMan
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Tecumseh OK


« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2011, 10:45:58 AM »

4. throttle sticks slightly - any recommendations for type of lube?  Has anyone used a cable lube tool they can suggest?
5. Previously, I've purchased parts from Honda Direct Line - does anyone have any other vendors they would recommend?
4. Everyone tells me my throttle sticks just because it does not snap closed when released.  I guess it technically is sticking, but I like it that way.  I don't feel like I'm fighting the return spring when riding. To each his own... Roll Eyes
5. I like Bike Bandit for a lot of stuff.  Some times they are cheaper, some times higher.  I mostly like their service, and they do give a discount to AMA members. cooldude
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wupster
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« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2011, 05:05:57 PM »

     I had the same problem as Black Dog.  O rings leaking, replaced them all.
     Removing cross brace does make it easier.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2011, 06:00:01 AM »

4. throttle sticks slightly - any recommendations for type of lube?  Has anyone used a cable lube tool they can suggest?
5. Previously, I've purchased parts from Honda Direct Line - does anyone have any other vendors they would recommend?
4. Everyone tells me my throttle sticks just because it does not snap closed when released.  I guess it technically is sticking, but I like it that way.  I don't feel like I'm fighting the return spring when riding. To each his own... Roll Eyes
5. I like Bike Bandit for a lot of stuff.  Some times they are cheaper, some times higher.  I mostly like their service, and they do give a discount to AMA members. cooldude


I hate to sound like a nit picker.......but, you get used to something and you "like it" but its not safe to have a sticky throttle.  Its not smart to just live with a "problem" with your throttle cable.  At best it could break at an untimely moment, at worst it could hold your throttle open at a time you really wish it wouldnt. 

Id get it fixed.......just sayin
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2011, 07:48:27 AM »

I agree!

A sticky throttle is really a precursor to a breaking throttle cable.

It's sticky because it is starting to wear the inner covering.

Lubrication will forestall the breaking/wear.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
fudgie
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« Reply #13 on: January 03, 2011, 03:12:04 PM »

I agree!

A sticky throttle is really a precursor to a breaking throttle cable.


I disagree. I have had a sticking throttle before and had nothing to do with the cable it self. I have a throttle lock and sometimes it gets tweeked enough that it wont allow it to return. A little tweek back and its fine.  crazy2
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John U.
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« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2011, 07:37:25 PM »

I have a sticky throttle lock also. I didn't know it was the cause of the slow throtttle return until I lubed the cable. It got a bit better but stiil a little slow. The lock seems to create drag unless I loosen it so much that it won't lock the throttle.
I'm going to try some moly paste next, but I'm not holding my breath.
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fudgie
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« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2011, 04:48:16 AM »

I have a sticky throttle lock also. I didn't know it was the cause of the slow throtttle return until I lubed the cable. It got a bit better but stiil a little slow. The lock seems to create drag unless I loosen it so much that it won't lock the throttle.
I'm going to try some moly paste next, but I'm not holding my breath.

Mine did that to. I got it set just right but wont hold steady for long. I mostly use it at start up to hold the throttle open. I do use it on the road if I need both hands for a min or 2.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2011, 09:58:45 AM »

This thread has been totally hijacked but still I persist in posting.  My apologies.

Yes, that's about all the throttle lock is good for: A couple of minutes!

The adjustment is tricky and has a very narrow limit of workability.

This is the model I use and have had pretty good service from it.

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_07-4044

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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2011, 02:07:58 PM »

Since I installed the throttle lock the grip doesn't move unless I move it. Without it my wrist gets sore after a few hours. I'm getting the re-offered Audiovox cruise control.
Fred.
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