|
redbaron
|
 |
« on: January 19, 2011, 02:23:22 PM » |
|
I noticed an obvious leak in my exhaust while warming up the interstate in the garage today. There was a noticeable moisture spot on the garage floor where the two chrome covers meet. I placed my hand underneath the exhaust at that point and felt a pressure leak that seemed to be pointing directly down. Both sides seem to be doing the same and I thought it could possibly be an engineered moisture drain point to prevent moisture build-up . . . hahaha, at least that what I'm hoping lol.
Does anyone have any feedback on this, is it manufactured, or do I have exhaust problems?
Thanks guys
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jay
|
|
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2011, 02:36:03 PM » |
|
I believe it is supposed to be there. Take a look under there, I bet you will see a drilled hole at each side.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Chillerman
|
|
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2011, 02:38:43 PM » |
|
Sounds normal to me. Probably condensation from sitting. Warming it up in the garage every once in awhile is not recommended from what I understand.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
|
|
|
|
Bobbo
|
|
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2011, 02:41:37 PM » |
|
Yes, it is a condensation weep hole. When the engine is cold, the mixture is usually rich, which causes a lot of water to condense in the exhaust, and that is how it escapes.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
gordonv
Member
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
|
|
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2011, 08:50:17 PM » |
|
I just removed my pipes from my IS since I'm parting it out, and there was at least one nut that was only finger tight. I would not be surprised if it was only the heat that kept the nut on the stud.
7# is not much, so like mentioned, check them, or even a little thread lock, or loose them.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2011, 08:53:42 AM » |
|
Loctite should not be used on those studs/nuts.
Antiseize should (most definitely) be used on those studs/nuts.
Got to get them Harley thinking memory resources deleted and replace with good Honda Valkyrie mechanical practices.
***
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
|
roboto65
|
|
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2011, 09:08:56 AM » |
|
The Blue will not hold up to the heat either..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Allen Rugg VRCC #30806 1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate 1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project  |
|
|
HotRod
Member
Posts: 909
2001 I/S First one was a 1999 I/S
Henderson, NV
|
|
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2011, 01:45:50 PM » |
|
I just removed my pipes from my IS since I'm parting it out, and there was at least one nut that was only finger tight. I would not be surprised if it was only the heat that kept the nut on the stud.
7# is not much, so like mentioned, check them, or even a little thread lock, or loose them.
You dont happen to have a luggage rack and saddle bag racks do you? e-mail me,rodraynoldsNOSPAM@embarqmail.com |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
|
|
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2011, 05:07:09 PM » |
|
I use Loctite 242 (blue) on header installs and have for years - hundreds of installs. It adds enough friction that the nuts don't move, don't have to be retorqued, and won't walk off. It's the thread locker used on threads that need to be disassembled sometimes. The stuff is still there, years later, preventing unintentional loosening. I still recommend checking the nuts a couple times with a torque wrench just to be sure they remain at spec. Feedback is - the nuts don't loosen, and apparently the crush gaskets don't need additional crushing later.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
