98valk
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« Reply #40 on: April 16, 2009, 05:59:41 PM » |
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KB, if u do not have an electrical short somewheres, then it sounds like u have a vacuum leak as a few others have mentioned. Intake manifold o-rings, poorly seated slide diaphragm or tear from changing the springs, etc. An engine will act like u discribe after it heats up from a vacuum leak. U have one somewhere IMO.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Goody
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Posts: 157
VRCC Md Rep
Halethorpe Maryland
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« Reply #41 on: April 17, 2009, 04:43:15 PM » |
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Just a thought. Do you have an aftermarket trigger wheel? What Brand if so. Can you get to the pick up bracket? That bugger has to be just right. Theres no adjustmnet just have to bend things a little. Just wondering if your on the edge and when you heat up the expansion throws it just out of tolerance. Somewhere in a thread a few years back some one had what pins to read on the icm to tell the pulse but I don't remember what it was. Worth a try! Goody
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Don't Plan to Cross the finish line in a well preserved package. Already got a good start!
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roadmap
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« Reply #42 on: April 20, 2009, 08:27:41 AM » |
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i have a 1997 with 140,000 miles. my thought on (normal) operating temp is running the bike out on the interstate for a short hard run. then when you get off the highway stop down down the road then you adjust the idle. i did this and always the bike ran slower in town (rpms) it always runs slow until complete warm up. my beast always have been hard to warm up but when it does everything works fine. running your bike in the garage for a few minutes does not get the bike warm no matter what the guage says. if you need to advance the idle do it after or during your run. then leave it, it set. i always run the bike for a quick ride when sync the carbs. or any thing that requires a warm up to normal operating temp. there is allot of engine that needs to be warm all over (the same-equal). one last thought after a run set the idle up then and then test your bike at idle load it up. i set mine at 1000 rpm and for you to try and set at 1200 it doesn't make that sound like a h...... anymore but who cares. performance it what counts
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Kingbee
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Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
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« Reply #43 on: April 20, 2009, 08:49:09 AM » |
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I agree with what you're saying about setting the idle after a good run, and that's what I've done. This issue is so disconcerting though. I can be riding along fat, dumb and happy, but when I slow for a stop, and have the brakes on, by the time I've come to a stop, it starts doing it's thing. And if the turn signal is on, its even worse. But again, for the first 10 minutes or so of the ride, everything is perfect.
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roadmap
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« Reply #44 on: April 20, 2009, 09:02:39 AM » |
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first adjust the valves one more time i would adjust your pilots again then sync your carbs. it is not how you rebuilt the carbs but the pilots are out. take that vent line off your tank that always gets kinked anyway i have for 10yrs rode my bike with out a vent hose. pilots, what are they turned to mine are at a full 2 1/2 turns out and i did desmog runs like it should. i left my bike stock the big problems were fuel related and vacuum petcock was the big one very little did you here of electrical parts go out here. starter switch and relay burning up was one but overall no problems to speak off. i am troubled on the video on carb sync i always thought the mercury or water should always be equal across the board i use twinmax it is electric so maybe i missed something. if all were equal they line up the same
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Kingbee
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Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
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« Reply #45 on: April 22, 2009, 12:00:34 PM » |
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Took it to the dealer today and said, "I don't want to hear from you until it's fixed".
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Scott from FL, now in Maine
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« Reply #46 on: April 22, 2009, 05:52:22 PM » |
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Sometimes unfortunately, that's your only option. Let us know the results! 
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NiteRiderF6
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Posts: 559
Doug n Stacy
Mississippi
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« Reply #47 on: April 23, 2009, 10:43:58 AM » |
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Took it to the dealer today and said, "I don't want to hear from you until it's fixed".
It's a good thing you have a few spare bikes around the house... hopefully they will find the problem now. Good Luck!
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1999 Honda Valkyrie Interstate - SuperValk Mod - SS - Lots of Chrome! 
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Kingbee
Member
    
Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
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« Reply #48 on: April 30, 2009, 05:24:20 PM » |
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Late last November, I bought a 99 Interstate with 20K on it, just to play around with during the winter. Now it's fully serviced, and runs great. I called my dealer today, and told them to take my bike out of the service que. I'm going to swap all my painted parts, locks, shocks, forks (easier than changing out the progressives), accessories, chrome, centerstand, tires & wheels between the two bikes, and gain 60,000 fewer miles in the deal. Then I'll sell the troublesome one to a dealer & let him deal with it. This beats the heck out of my service department racking up a $1,000 bill & again not finding the problem. So, this interstate  Will turn into this  Anyone want to buy a black, pinstriped, Tourer/Interstate clone with a stereo, CB, Audiovox cruise & heated grips? 
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PapaHotel
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« Reply #50 on: April 30, 2009, 08:36:32 PM » |
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definately a low voltage problem. There may be a large drain somewhere that takes the voltage down, you have to de-fuse one item at a time until there is "normal" drain and the voltage stays a steady 13.8-14.2 volts, or find out why the charging system is just not keping up and supplying the voltage. A valk looses lots of things when the volts drop off. Most noticeable in an Interstate that has a digital dash.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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« Reply #51 on: May 02, 2009, 02:28:32 AM » |
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Sounds like it could be the rpm drop causing the voltage drop and not the other way around. Is your choke releasing completely? If you raise your idle speed to 1100 rpm does it still happen? Could you have a vac leak at one of the intakes?
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.'' -- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964 
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Kingbee
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Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
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« Reply #52 on: May 02, 2009, 06:32:06 AM » |
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Then again, the question is, "why does it run so flawlessly before reaching operating temp, no matter how low the RPMs or voltage goes?" When cold, it can sit there at 550 RPM and 11.5 volts and run smooth as silk, and takes throttle without hesitation.
Once warmed up, even at 1,000 RPM and 12.5 volts it will do it's erratic miss at idle, as shown in the video.
I've got her back from the dealer, misc. parts for the transformation have been ordered, and "Stinger" is going to start turnng into a "real" interstate this weekend.
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6jugzz
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Posts: 307
LUV2RIDE...buy safety chrome
Rock hill,SC
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« Reply #53 on: May 03, 2009, 08:53:10 AM » |
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Warm up , try adjusting your idle to 900/1000 rpm and go for a ride "short" then ck. My bike idles better @ 1000 than around 600.
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Valkyrie...ride the best, love the rest! 
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Kingbee
Member
    
Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
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« Reply #54 on: May 03, 2009, 06:08:01 PM » |
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I've tried everything mentioned here, plus the entire ignition system, vacuum lines, O rings and carb rebuild with bigger pilots. I have given up, my dealer has given up and Dfragn has given up. The change over began this afternoon. Ready to start. For those interested I'm starting a new thread after this post. 
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Challenger
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« Reply #55 on: May 03, 2009, 06:45:29 PM » |
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Kingbee, let us know what you want for the beast when you are done ripping and tearing, I could make the 150 mile trip and take it off your hands, been looking for a project Valk to put NOX on
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