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old2soon
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« on: March 18, 2011, 01:14:38 PM » |
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I'm going d/s with a 205-60-16. Nut cage mod is done and rough edges dressed up nice and smooth. Should i use the big square nut that was in the cage or find a smaller nut?? Or run the bolt so the threads are on the outside instead and get acorn nuts for it?? Again TIA Guys. RIDE SAFE.  |
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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GJS
Member
Posts: 424
Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
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« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2011, 01:33:45 PM » |
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I went with the square nuts.
When I did mine I had the bike taken apart, with that section of fender removed.
I spot welded the nut into place. Not a practical solution for many, but made sense to me at the time.
It may be difficult to find another nut that shallow, and smaller.
Good luck.
Glenn
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The tragedy of life is not that it ends so soon, but that we wait so long to begin it.
- W. M. Lewis
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PhredValk
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« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2011, 02:34:43 PM » |
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I haven't done it yet, but I'm thinking of using a flat-headed carriage bolt running out from the fender so the head is inside. Maybe 3mm max inside the fender.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2011, 02:38:55 PM » |
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Doesn't have to be the same thread and pitch as long as the nut's are the same. Easier to get standard parts than metric.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2011, 03:02:15 PM » |
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Having removed the cage and all for extra clearance, I would not use the big fat nuts... I just used regular-small of the same size. If I had the carriage bolts and other outside fasteners, I would have use them, but they were not on hand, so....
Spot welding on the inside of the fender would seem likely to damage the paint on the outside; at least with my welding skills.
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csj
Member
Posts: 992
I used to be a wolfboy, but I'm alright NOOOOOWWWW
Peterborough Ontario Canada
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« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2011, 03:29:12 PM » |
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My Tourer was rubbing badly when I installed my 205/60/16.
The tire was hot when touched after riding. So I removed
the rear fender and hack-sawed off the nut cages.
I re-used the original rectang. nuts and so far, A-OK,
no rubbing, no loose hardware, but will likely get in there
this year and loctite it up.
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A guy called me a Ba$tard, I said in my case it's an accident
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10614
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2011, 05:21:13 PM » |
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I think I used a lock nut on mine. I lost a nut in 06 out in Sturgis and my fender flopped around all week. I do check tightness every spring.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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Tropic traveler
Member
Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2011, 05:39:39 PM » |
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
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'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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OverdueBill
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« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2011, 09:39:23 PM » |
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I got two stainless carriage bolts at Lowe's/Home Depot whichever and two stainless cap nuts. Looks normal and works great. To save effort, I got two looooong bolts and cut to size when I saw what was needed. Holy smoke, Batman! That rear section of fender was a bit.... uh big problem to get lined up and back on. Last time it comes off if I can help it.
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NITRO
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« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2011, 06:48:06 AM » |
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I haven't done it yet, but I'm thinking of using a flat-headed carriage bolt running out from the fender so the head is inside. Maybe 3mm max inside the fender.
Fred.
This is what I did, it works well. I used a standard bolt, but I forget what size, and cut off the extra when I was done (I think it was a 5" long bolt). I haven't gotten around to it yet, but you can also put an acorn nut on the end of the bolts then to dress them up if you have a standard (you don't see them with the OEM bags in place). |
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When in doubt, ride.
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old2soon
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« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2011, 06:57:23 AM » |
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O-k everyone-as usual-good and concise information. Gettin the fender section back on was fun-even after gettin everything in arms reach before i started. I'll start out with the original flat nuts and see what happens. If the durn things gotta be changed out-puttin her on the lift and droppin the shocks ain't that big a deal!! :coolsmiley:RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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B
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2011, 09:08:51 AM » |
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Ended up having to go back in and change the square nut to smaller nut due to some rubbing on big bumps with 2 up.
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"if I ride the morning winds to the farthest oceans, even there your hand will guide me." TLB-Ps.139:9-10
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da prez
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« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2011, 09:06:11 AM » |
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hey all , due to old age , I have not started on my bike, but my brother bought a Valk after riding mine and is doing the 205 tire. There is a bolt called a garage door (carriage type) bolt that has a much larger head but is very thin. Most good hardware stores and some bigbox stores have them but you usually have to ask. I have them in 1/4 and 3/8 sizes in my stock. If you cannot find them at the stores, then follow a garage door installation truck and beg. Also if you use a wrap of teflon tape it will stay in place but is easier to remove than thread locker. da prez
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Tx Bohemian
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« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2011, 09:52:56 AM » |
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Doesn't have to be the same thread and pitch as long as the nut's are the same. Easier to get standard parts than metric.
The local TSC, Lowes, and Home Depot have a really large selection of metric. I've even found SS acorn nuts. |
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10614
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #14 on: March 21, 2011, 10:17:09 AM » |
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yea it was a good year. I keep going back!  |
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Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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stude31
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« Reply #17 on: March 25, 2011, 05:41:59 AM » |
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Old2Soon... I wish you would have just rode over to Topeka,Ks. We could have knocked this out in no time. I would recommend doing the washer mod as well... Here is a couple links to look at... http://www.s2s-accessories.com/photo/fndrmod/http://rides.webshots.com/album/558419637qsIyod?vhost=ridesI think Wayne (wdvalk) is going to come up to my place tomorrow and he is going to ride my bike w/ CT on it and if he likes it we would do this to his bike and he will be back on the road same day. If you have questions give me a call or send me an email... seven-eight-5- two -two - 0 - one - 3 - zero - eight. Hope all is going well for you! Keep in touch... any chance you could make it to the ride out in kansas at the end of april? |
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Cliff
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« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2011, 06:10:47 AM » |
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205-60-16 GATT Stainless carriage bolt from the inside, threads at correct length, outside dressed with a chrome acorn nut. Never tried the "half way" short cuts. Never had a problem. What size/diam carriage bolt did you use? |
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VRCC # 29680
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #19 on: June 21, 2011, 08:02:49 AM » |
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I didn't use carriage bolts but all threadwith a nylock nut on the inside and 5/16ths was the biggest I could install without breaking out a drill.
Marty
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Cliff
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« Reply #20 on: June 21, 2011, 09:08:59 AM » |
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I didn't use carriage bolts but all threadwith a nylock nut on the inside and 5/16ths was the biggest I could install without breaking out a drill.
Marty
Thanks Marty, trying to get the info to pick up the needed hardware before starting the project,,, I have a tiny bit of rub on the right side and want to correct it ASAP. |
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VRCC # 29680
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vanagon40
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« Reply #22 on: June 21, 2011, 11:25:44 PM » |
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Old2Soon... I wish you would have just rode over to Topeka,Ks. We could have knocked this out in no time.
I would recommend doing the washer mod as well...
+1 on the washer mod. It is too simple to ignore if a rider is moving to a larger rear tire. No downside. |
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Cliff
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« Reply #23 on: June 22, 2011, 04:59:36 AM » |
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Old2Soon... I wish you would have just rode over to Topeka,Ks. We could have knocked this out in no time.
I would recommend doing the washer mod as well...
+1 on the washer mod. It is too simple to ignore if a rider is moving to a larger rear tire. No downside. +1 on the washer mod. I really don't get all this grinding and cutting bolts. Fighting with the fender rail alignment to get the bolts back in can take a day! The washer mod. will solve your problem guys in 10 easy minutes. This will align your rear fender to center and eliminate the rubbing on the bolt/nut. Click on the link and play the illustrated slideshow. http://rides.webshots.com/album/558419637qsIyod?vhost=rides(This is in addition to the nutcage mod) for some bikes. I've seen some that are fine with just the nutcage mod. Ok,, now, what size washers (hole diam) do I need to pick up (along with bolts for nut cage mod) to do the washer mod? |
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VRCC # 29680
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Tundra
Member
Posts: 3882
2014 Valkyrie 1800
Seminole, Florida
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« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2011, 05:35:41 AM » |
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Cliff, I understand what your looking for, a shopping list to have what you need ahead of time. Smart, I just don't know for sure and don't want to tell you incorrect information. I took my bolts to the local hardware store and replaced them with like size and length, Pan head from the inside out with chrome acorn nuts to finish it on the outside. I purchased the washers at the same time. Sorry, hopefully someone will know the exact size for you. Sounds like you've already done the nutcage and have the tire mounted? I would not want to revisit that. (aligning fender with fender rails and bolts)  If your going with the Washer Modification to align the center of the rear fender, again I took my fender rail bolt in to the hardware store. First measure to see if your fender is aligned, you have more to take of to get to the fender rails than me (Interstate) http://rides.webshots.com/album/558419637qsIyod?vhost=rides |
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If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!
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Cliff
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« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2011, 06:09:53 AM » |
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Cliff, I understand what your looking for, a shopping list to have what you need ahead of time. Smart, I just don't know for sure and don't want to tell you incorrect information. I took my bolts to the local hardware store and replaced them with like size and length, Pan head from the inside out with chrome acorn nuts to finish it on the outside. I purchased the washers at the same time. Sorry, hopefully someone will know the exact size for you. Sounds like you've already done the nutcage and have the tire mounted? I would not want to revisit that. (aligning fender with fender rails and bolts) If your going with the Washer Modification to align the center of the rear fender, again I took my fender rail bolt in to the hardware store. First measure to see if your fender is aligned, you have more to take of to get to the fender rails than me (Interstate) http://rides.webshots.com/album/558419637qsIyod?vhost=ridesTundra, Thanks for the info. I have now done the washer mod (used enough SS washers to give me 3/8" thickness) Looks like I may not need to do the nutcage mod with this particular DS tire (General Altimax HP 205/60-16). Right side nutcage was barely rubbing and only if 2 up. Since doing washer mod and setting shocks to softest preset no rubbing even riding 2 up. |
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VRCC # 29680
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