SIGNS OF HYDROLOCK

[BIG--T]

Can anyone tell me the signs of hydrolocking, like what to look for? Engine hard to turn over? leaking gas??

Thanks

[Dave Weaver]

Hydrolock is caused by fuel leaking through the petcock.  It also takes a stuck carb bowl float to cause hydrolock.  Fuel goes through a faulty petcock into a faulty carburetor, which allows fuel to drip directly into a cylinder.  When you press the starter button to start your engine, you will then be asking your piston to compress raw fuel in the cylinder that has the problem.  If you suspect hydrolock you can either remove spark plugs before turning over the engine, which will allow a place for raw fuel to go, or just bump the starter button instead of pressing in and holding until she starts.  Bumping the starter and listening intently should allow you to feel the starter stalling as it is trying to compress the raw fuel.  It will continue to turn over if you have no problems.

[elraque]

If it has already hydrolocked it probably won't turn over at all.

One way to check is to put the transmission in 4th or 5th and see if you can push the bike a few feet. If the rear wheel won't turn (won't allow the bike to roll), you're probably hydrolocked.

If you're hydrolocked, the next step is to remove the plugs. This allows you to use the starter to turn the engine over. This will release the uncompressable liquid from the cylinders. Be careful, this will probably shoot gasoline out of all six spark plug holes ALL OVER THE GARAGE (or driveway, or whatever)!

Once you've removed the plugs and turned the engine over to remove the liquid from the cylinders you can get an idea how much damage has been done. Put the plugs back in and turn the engine over again.

If it's hydrolocked the starter will "clack" when it engages. This is because the hydrolock has caused teeth to shear on the gear(s) inside the case. If enough teeth are damaged the starter will spin but the engine won't turn over.

The worst case is that the hydrolock has cracked the case. You won't know this until the engine is removed, at which time a full inspection can (should) be done. The engine will have to be pulled to change the damaged starter gears.

There is a LOT of information about hydrolock. Others will post the links to various threads and links (including pictures and instructions).

Good luck, I hope it's something else.

[BIG--T]

If it has already hydrolocked it probably won't turn over at all.

One way to check is to put the transmission in 4th or 5th and see if you can push the bike a few feet. If the rear wheel won't turn (won't allow the bike to roll), you're probably hydrolocked.

If you're hydrolocked, the next step is to remove the plugs. This allows you to use the starter to turn the engine over. This will release the uncompressable liquid from the cylinders. Be careful, this will probably shoot gasoline out of all six spark plug holes ALL OVER THE GARAGE (or driveway, or whatever)!

Once you've removed the plugs and turned the engine over to remove the liquid from the cylinders you can get an idea how much damage has been done. Put the plugs back in and turn the engine over again.

If it's hydrolocked the starter will "clack" when it engages. This is because the hydrolock has caused teeth to shear on the gear(s) inside the case. If enough teeth are damaged the starter will spin but the engine won't turn over.

The worst case is that the hydrolock has cracked the case. You won't know this until the engine is removed, at which time a full inspection can (should) be done. The engine will have to be pulled to change the damaged starter gears.

There is a LOT of information about hydrolock. Others will post the links to various threads and links (including pictures and instructions).

Good luck, I hope it's something else.

Thanks for the info on hydrolocking, but what I was asking what are the tell tell signs or symptoms before she hydrolocks so I can stop it- nip it in the bud before she does.
Thanks

[BIG--T]

Hydrolock is caused by fuel leaking through the petcock.  It also takes a stuck carb bowl float to cause hydrolock.  Fuel goes through a faulty petcock into a faulty carburetor, which allows fuel to drip directly into a cylinder.  When you press the starter button to start your engine, you will then be asking your piston to compress raw fuel in the cylinder that has the problem.  If you suspect hydrolock you can either remove spark plugs before turning over the engine, which will allow a place for raw fuel to go, or just bump the starter button instead of pressing in and holding until she starts.  Bumping the starter and listening intently should allow you to feel the starter stalling as it is trying to compress the raw fuel.  It will continue to turn over if you have no problems.

How would I suspect hydrolock?
Thanks

[Ricky-D]

How would I suspect hydrolock?

Well, if you're trying to figure this out prior to starting the motor, there is really no way!

There could be some indicators of a problem that could potentially cause hydrolock, and have already been discussed in this thread.

There is one main indicator that hydrolock is present.

That is: If when starting the motor, it suddenly stops almost instantly when pressing the starter button. Now the stopping is not gradual but rather a jolting kind of stop. And the motor will not turn a few times either. It will stop almost immediately after you press the starter button. Like a clank!

***

[greggh]

IF your are trying to prevent Hydro lock you can just Park the Valk and just look at it

Sorry!  In all seriousness always turn the fuel off whenever you stop for any period of time, When starting it just give the starter button a Tap - only engage the starter for a second, when you do this listen to the starter and the motor.  If you here nothing unusual then all is well.

Most of the Hydro lock damage is done when you try to start the bike and there is fuel in the cylinders.  The piston try’s to move but the pressure from the fuel in the cylinder compresses and stops the movement of the piston causing baddd things to happen.

While riding I like to reach down and turn off the fuel supply to see if the petcock is working correctly, this is an easy way to see if it is is working.
IF you have real major concerns about the stock petcock it can be replace with a Pingle Manual petcock.  Others would have to chime in regarding that.
Just my 2cents worth.

Gregg

[BIG--T]

Thanks Ya'll for all the information.  I will definetly bump and pay attention to the sound of the starter.