F6Viking
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« on: May 17, 2011, 05:43:05 PM » |
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First of all I have a 99 I/S and here's short timeline leading up to my problem.
Been riding for a little over a month now since getting out from winter. Had no trouble with low/high beam. Washed bike yesterday, this a.m. on way to work when I switched from high to low....no headlights. High beam works fine, all other lights work fine. When hitting starter the highs will cut out as they should.
When I got to work I tore apart the left side housing with the light switch and used some contact cleaner on all the underside surfaces of the switch. Contacts look good, still no low beam.
Got home this evening tore apart the starter switch cleaned and greased the contacts there, STILL NO low beams. Checked fuses under rightside panel. 5A relay and 15A headlight fuses are good.
I have done searches and am not having any luck beyond what I have tried. Any and all help appreciated. TIA
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VRCC# 27351 VRCCDS# 0136
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RP#62
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« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2011, 05:46:32 PM » |
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I know this defies logic, but did you check the bulbs? -RP
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john
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« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2011, 05:51:22 PM » |
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vrcc # 19002
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F6Viking
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« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2011, 06:38:29 PM » |
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RP, yes they are checked, not the bulbs they are good. I was thinking same, what are chances of both going same time.?.?.not the case though.
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VRCC# 27351 VRCCDS# 0136
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PhredValk
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« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2011, 06:46:54 PM » |
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When I first got my Valk the low beam didn't work. I cleaned the switch, no change. Bent the contacts up (or down, don't remember exactly. In the direction they looked like they wanted to go), like in a battery powered game, and it's been fine ever since. Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional. VRCCDS0237
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Jack B
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« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2011, 06:56:43 PM » |
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That happen to me and I fround a broken wire down by the relay It was out of the mount and was just hanging with one wire broken off
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Let’s RIDE
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Chippy01
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« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2011, 02:25:20 AM » |
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I've heard about this sort of problem before. On the IS, I think there are two relays that control your hi/low beams. If you can find them swop them over and see if the problem jumps from your low beams to your hi's. If it does, it's a faulty relay. Also bear in mind that sometimes just the act of pulling connectors apart and putting them together again sometimes lets everything make contact again.
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'98 GL1500C Standard Valkyrie '88 VF750C SuperMagna '89 GL1500 GoldWing
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Cliff
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« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2011, 04:38:14 AM » |
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I've heard about this sort of problem before. On the IS, I think there are two relays that control your hi/low beams. If you can find them swop them over and see if the problem jumps from your low beams to your hi's. If it does, it's a faulty relay. Also bear in mind that sometimes just the act of pulling connectors apart and putting them together again sometimes lets everything make contact again.
You are correct there is a relay for low and a seperate realy for high. From the battery to the hi/low switch there is one common line. If the high beams are working the problem cannot be before the hi/low switch but from the switch onward. Looking at the wiring diagram it shows the headlight circuit going through a green 14 pin connector in the L inner fairing. The low beam relay (under seat) connects to a brown connector/base and the High beam realy connects to a black connector/base. For meter measurement purposes.... >> Low beam relay 12v input on the white/blue wire and output on the white/black wire. The high beam realy output for lamp is blue/black. High input is color is same as low,(common source)
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« Last Edit: May 18, 2011, 04:40:12 AM by Cliff »
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VRCC # 29680
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old grouch
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Posts: 387
If it aint broke, don't fix it!
Colorado Springs, CO
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« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2011, 06:19:10 AM » |
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Just to muddy the waters a bit.....I had no low beams a couple of days ago and it WAS the bulbs!! Both went at the same time. New ones fixed it. Stan
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 Don't float thru life, MAKE WAVES! 09/11/01 NEVER FORGET!
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tarheel-one
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« Reply #9 on: May 18, 2011, 06:29:25 AM » |
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Did they both go out at the same time, or did you just notice after the second one went out, and you had no low beams? 
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1970 Kawasaki 250 F4 Sidewinder 1999 Honda Valkyrie Standard 2008 Honda Goldwing
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F6Viking
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« Reply #10 on: May 18, 2011, 12:45:57 PM » |
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Thanks Cliff for confirming what Chippy01 mentioned. I will check out the relay's as well as what Chippy suggested about unplugging and plugging all connections hopefully tonight after work. Will let you know what the outcome is.
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VRCC# 27351 VRCCDS# 0136
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alph
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« Reply #11 on: May 18, 2011, 01:42:29 PM » |
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i'd second that one about cleaning the high/low switch on your left handle bar. my lights will stay off sometimes when i hit the high beams, not a big deal during the day, sucks at night!!
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Promote world peace, ban all religion. Ride Safe, Ride Often!!  
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old grouch
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Posts: 387
If it aint broke, don't fix it!
Colorado Springs, CO
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« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2011, 03:15:28 PM » |
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tarheel Last time I rode, low beams were on. Next time I started it, no lights. Gotta be a fuse. Nope, fuses good. Didn't check relays, just went to the bulbs, pulled them, both low beams out. Guess it CAN happen. Stan
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 Don't float thru life, MAKE WAVES! 09/11/01 NEVER FORGET!
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F6Viking
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« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2011, 03:26:53 PM » |
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OK here are results: Bulbs good fuses good disassembled and cleaned light switch disassembled and cleaned starter switch pulled all four relays under seat in front of battery box and not knowing for sure which one was for low beam found the one that works on the high beam and switched it to the other three and still no go, then put all three other relays on high and they worked, so all 4 are good.
HELP...WHERE TOO NOW
Keep in mind from original post, was working for the month I had been riding since getting out and when I washed the bike Tuesday evening I had no low on Wednesday morning.
I should have paid more attention to Cliff's post he did tell which was low and which was high. Either way I switched relays for each other and still no go.
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« Last Edit: May 18, 2011, 03:31:53 PM by F6Viking »
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VRCC# 27351 VRCCDS# 0136
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F6Viking
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« Reply #14 on: May 18, 2011, 04:21:49 PM » |
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OMG RP & Stan you were right. BULBS
After my previous post I was really stumped and went looking for old original bulbs I thought I still had from a Silverstar swap out I did a few years back, found them and they work.
I REALLY DID CHECK THE BULBS
After the old ones worked I took a really close look at the filaments and lo and behold there was a very slight distortion in the dumb things. When I pulled them the first time all I was looking for was the tale tale dark spot on the glass you usually see when one goes. As small as the change was in the filament I would never have imagined that both had gone. The alignment of the filament was just a fraction off. They may not have gone at the same time tho, will never know for sure, but they both did go since I got the bike out from winter, cause I always check all my lights when I first start riding in the spring.
Thanks Cliff for the input, as always, learned a little more than I knew before when digging into a fix on the big girl. Seems to always be the case in the 12 years since buying it and visiting this board. Usually limit my time on here to just taking evryone else's advice and experiences.
Thanks again all for the input.
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VRCC# 27351 VRCCDS# 0136
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #15 on: May 18, 2011, 10:35:06 PM » |
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The moral is........ you can't always tell a bulb is bad by looking at it.
Before anything else, put in a new bulb to see if it works; if it does, your repair is finished.
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F6Viking
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« Reply #16 on: May 19, 2011, 04:10:09 AM » |
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Well Jess you got that right. Luckily I kept, and could find, the old bulbs and was able to try them and as you say repair finished. At least having the old bulbs saved me any cost for now until I get a new set of Silverstar Ultras. All I was out was time but with that time as said I gained new info about the old girl. Also gave me a chance to service the starter button and headlight switch. So alls well that ends well. 
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VRCC# 27351 VRCCDS# 0136
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #17 on: May 19, 2011, 04:30:19 AM » |
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F6V, I always check my lights before leaving the house. While the Valk is warming up I do a walkaround checking for light operation then turnsignals, brakes and hi/lo operation.
Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers. 
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #18 on: May 19, 2011, 05:46:22 AM » |
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F6V, I always check my lights before leaving the house. While the Valk is warming up I do a walkaround checking for light operation then turnsignals, brakes and hi/lo operation.
Marty
This is the BEST practice! Taking a look at the tires, which I am sure you also do.  ***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2011, 06:58:45 AM » |
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F6V, I always check my lights before leaving the house. While the Valk is warming up I do a walkaround checking for light operation then turnsignals, brakes and hi/lo operation.
Marty
This is the BEST practice! Taking a look at the tires, which I am sure you also do.  ***  Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers. 
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2011, 07:15:02 AM » |
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I'd get a new set of bulbs, the old ones are likely lackluster and not a longevity proposition.
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Cliff
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« Reply #21 on: May 19, 2011, 07:42:51 AM » |
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OMG RP & Stan you were right. BULBS
After my previous post I was really stumped and went looking for old original bulbs I thought I still had from a Silverstar swap out I did a few years back, found them and they work.
I REALLY DID CHECK THE BULBS
After the old ones worked I took a really close look at the filaments and lo and behold there was a very slight distortion in the dumb things. When I pulled them the first time all I was looking for was the tale tale dark spot on the glass you usually see when one goes. As small as the change was in the filament I would never have imagined that both had gone. The alignment of the filament was just a fraction off. They may not have gone at the same time tho, will never know for sure, but they both did go since I got the bike out from winter, cause I always check all my lights when I first start riding in the spring.
Thanks Cliff for the input, as always, learned a little more than I knew before when digging into a fix on the big girl. Seems to always be the case in the 12 years since buying it and visiting this board. Usually limit my time on here to just taking evryone else's advice and experiences.
Thanks again all for the input.
One thing to consider,,, a good multimeter (even a cheapo one) is a very good friend when diagnosing electrical issues. You could have metered the power at the lamp socket and saved your valuable time  .. glad you have it all working now so you can go out and RIDE!!!!!!!! Be safe . (BTW,,, I don't try checking the headlight bulbs for continuity instead check for supply voltage and good ground on other pin of socket. Continuity readings on these bulbs can be confusing.)
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« Last Edit: May 19, 2011, 07:45:32 AM by Cliff »
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VRCC # 29680
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Malkozaine
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« Reply #22 on: April 06, 2022, 10:35:04 AM » |
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What relays are the ones that control the headlights? I think the one for my low beam might be bad cause I have issues with getting the low beam to work after switching from the high beam.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #23 on: April 06, 2022, 03:27:22 PM » |
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You do know that regular bulb filament can go out (burn out) for the dim, but the bright still works?
That is how all my regular halogen bulbs burn out (dim only), since I never run my brights (only flash them once in a while).
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« Last Edit: April 07, 2022, 12:50:52 AM by Jess from VA »
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RonW
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« Reply #24 on: April 06, 2022, 05:32:05 PM » |
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headlight relays are only on the I/S not the standard or tourer. Just checking.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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h13man
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Posts: 1745
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #25 on: April 07, 2022, 06:51:53 AM » |
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You do know that regular bulb filament can go out (burn out) for the dim, but the bright still works?
That is how all my regular halogen bulbs burn out (dim only), since I never run my brights (only flash them once in a while).
Had an issue 3 seasons ago. Turned out to be the switch was dirty I assume. Sprayed it with WD40 and worked back and forth. Fortunately my LED spots worked very well for low beam until I got home that night.
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Malkozaine
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« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2022, 08:26:27 AM » |
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headlight relays are only on the I/S not the standard or tourer. Just checking.
I have a I/S. As for the Bulbs I have LED replacements. The low beams will work....but when I switch to high then low, the low don't always come back on.
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« Last Edit: April 07, 2022, 08:29:28 AM by Malkozaine »
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ridingron
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« Reply #27 on: April 07, 2022, 06:46:44 PM » |
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Get a can of WD 40 and use the red straw to spray into the openings around the high/low switch. Work the switch while spraying. I know it is not a cleaner, but in 5 minutes you'll know to look elsewhere. Quick, easy and cheap. I do both side yearly.
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