I/S adjusting a DynaTek 3K question.

[fordmano]

Ok now this is another prelude to full ride report.

I managed to acquire a DynaTek 3K from a very giving VRCC brother. Giving in this case means able and willing to part with one at a VERY reasonable price, Thanks again for that deal.

Ok as per instructions I set it back to what is close as possible to stock settings,,, but I have a 4degree trigger wheel and I did NOT remove it. Just felt like it was too much work for the time allowed.

So I wrote down the setting that the original owner had left the dials at, and after I verified it would run I put the dials back to where he had them and that was 7,500RPM and setting #5.

Ran superbly, but not as much gain as I was hoping for from things I have read.
Stock exhaust that had the piggy’s cut off then I recently put them back on as a courtesy for my wife. K&N No pre-filter, #38's primary jets, #105 main jets, and pilot screws set to in between 1-3/4 turns and maybe 2 full turns. Stock coils so far, I do have the DynaTek 3ohm mini coils and will be changing to those next weekend if all goes well.

So tonight I programmed the retard to pull back 10 degrees when activated and the advance is set to setting #7 runs even better just off idle up to around 5k-5.5k starts to drop off a little bit well it still pulls hard juts not as much of a linear increase in feeling of power. Idle dropped a little bit down around 850ish RPM so I bumped it back up to a smooth 1,000RPM. But here is a twist I also did some experimenting with my vacuum lines setup for my Cruise Control, I ganged ALL 6 vacuum ports together and only installed 1 check valve, this was derived from what I read from DAGS’s site and information. He said he had improved the smoothness of the Big Girl by ganging all the vacuum ports together but he did not try it with a Cruise Control. Well it did get smoother and seems like it will be ok, so far.

I would think that I should have about 37-38 advance at peak with my 4degree T/W and setting #7 might go back to setting #6. And that would get me back to about 27-28 when retard is activated. I want to install an on/of switch for running one way while slabbing it and then flip the switch and be ready to show off at the next stop light.
Can I activate the retard settings while the bike is running or do I need to shut motor and key off before I flip the retard switch I have installed?

What’s your opinion here and what are you running with your Dynatek 3K?

[fordmano]

Well nobody, not even one response?

Ok well I can partially answer my own question now.
Not sure about long term "but" for short term flipping the retard switch while running seems to have no ILL effect at all except allows me to get into trouble much easier.

Switch in the off position = full available advance putting me around 37-38 advanced spark.

Switch in the ON position = full retard, I set it to pull back 10degrees and that puts me back at 27-28 degrees advance at peak.

I wanted to make a little label to easily recognize ON=HP & OFF=MPG get it 2 letter = 2 letters and 3 letters = 3 letters.

I have one of those protected switch covers mounted over the switch the fire button covers only armed with cover lifted flip cover closed and it forces the swith to OFF or disarmed position...  I sure hope turning this off and on while powered up does not adversely effect the life of the DynaTech 3K since I really like the way my FatLady is running now. The difference can easily be felt in my seat of the pants DYNOMOMETER.

Thanks again for all your responses on this topic it was fun to read them all out loud to my young son, he liked it too (since he did not have to listen to me breath very long)...

LOL!!! Always a work in progress with my Valkyrie...

[98valk]

first time seeing your post.

yes the retard switch is for while running.  I run modified OEM TW  for 6 degrees and the Dyna curve 7. I add in the addtioinal 10 degrees after 2.5k rpms. If I need to hard accelerate at hwy speeds 2.5k rpm and above I remove the 10 degrees. 6 TW and curve 7 give the same curve as an I/S ICM +1 degree. I have found anything other than this will cause the plugs to show signs of detnotation.

http://www.timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel_plus_dyna3000.htm

[fordmano]

first time seeing your post.

http://www.timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel_plus_dyna3000.htm

It's ok, I was posting a bunch of questions during that short time period.
I have the 4* T/W Dyna set on curve 7 and 10* retard on switch I think I realy like it.

I have noticed a small tick or click sound at idle (DeSmog done all intake and exhausts torqued down proper) Valves checked less than 6,000 miles ago. Sounds like it is coming from exhaust but I have not notice the noise off of low idle and no popping at all at any speed or amount of deceleration. I don't think it is a big deal just a little annoying to hear any odd noise from this big smooth girl.

[98valk]

mechanical valves, should always hear them, if u don't they are too tight and can burn up