National Cycle Light Bar review

[Brian]

Well guys, I had a chance this morning to finally adjusting the lights on my new light bar, first let me give you a short product review for those who might be considering this item.

Pro's:
Easy to mount, hole alignment excellent to match the headlight housing mounting bolts.
Chrome quality is excellent.
Welds are even and clean, no spatter.
Comes with wiring diagram and vampire connectors, both of which I put aside.
Both spots and signal lights are adjustable.
Came fully assembled with wires pulled thru and ready to mount.
Spots are bright.
Instructions do tell you what tools you need and how adjust aim.

Con's:
Difficult to adjust aim.
Special tools need, tools are not provided.
Tools are not an option when purchased.

The special tools needed I had to make and are a must. You may have these if you have a well stocked tool chest.

1st, you need a 9/16 deep socket with a slot down the side for the the spot light wire to come thru while you turn the internal nut on the light stud. The instructions state using a Snap-on oxygen sensor socket. The counter guy at NAPA looked at me like I had third eye in the middle of my forehead. Then I explained why I needed this an asked for a plain deep socket and I slotted it myself using a right angle grinder and a dremel at home in 15 minutes, $3.00 for the socket.
2nd, you need a loose metric # 4 allen wrench with the short side cut down to just short of the 90 deg bend. This is the only way that I could loosen the inside bolt to drop the turn signal housing to gain access to loosen the internal 9/16 nut for the adjustment.

I hope someone out there finds this info helpful.

Regardless of these issues I happy with the end result. If you are not handy at DYI projects, let your dealer install it.

[Tailgate Tommy]

I’ve had the National Cycle Light Bar installed on mine for about a year now and the only issue I had was the ground wire inside one of the light housings shorted out shortly after I installed the light bar and blew the fuse and burned the wire. Repaired the wire and all is now good. As for the alignment, you are correct. It’s a pain. I didn’t aim mine prior to going to Inzane last year (guess I hadn’t driven in the dark before I left, the wife makes me come home before the street lights come on) and I realized they were only pointing about 4 feet in front of the bike while driving in the very dark Michigan woods. Due to my natural energy conservation, I still haven’t gotten around to adjusting them. I mostly got them for a little extra daytime visibility for cagers.

[Fudd]

I too installed a Nat'l Cycle light bar last year.  If I remember correctly, the instructions had me connecting the power to EITHER the high beam or the low beam circuit, my choice.  Number one, I wanted it to be on all the time, regardless high or low.  And secondly, I wanted redundency having an entirely different circuit from the main lights powering the aux lights.  I connected it to the neutral indicator power.  Yes, it stays illuminated when cranking the engine, but it has never given me any problems.

The workmanship and chrome job on the Nat'l Cycle lights is far superior to the Cobra aux lights that I put on my Suzuki a year ago.

[Brad]

I too installed a Nat'l Cycle light bar last year.  If I remember correctly, the instructions had me connecting the power to EITHER the high beam or the low beam circuit, my choice.  Number one, I wanted it to be on all the time, regardless high or low.  And secondly, I wanted redundency having an entirely different circuit from the main lights powering the aux lights.  I connected it to the neutral indicator power.  Yes, it stays illuminated when cranking the engine, but it has never given me any problems.

The workmanship and chrome job on the Nat'l Cycle lights is far superior to the Cobra aux lights that I put on my Suzuki a year ago.

I see lots of headlights in that picture but did not notice the light bar...perhaps you have a picture that shows the light bar?   

[Brian]

I’ve had the National Cycle Light Bar installed on mine for about a year now and the only issue I had was the ground wire inside one of the light housings shorted out shortly after I installed the light bar and blew the fuse and burned the wire. Repaired the wire and all is now good. As for the alignment, you are correct. It’s a pain. I didn’t aim mine prior to going to Inzane last year (guess I hadn’t driven in the dark before I left, the wife makes me come home before the street lights come on) and I realized they were only pointing about 4 feet in front of the bike while driving in the very dark Michigan woods. Due to my natural energy conservation, I still haven’t gotten around to adjusting them. I mostly got them for a little extra daytime visibility for cagers.

No ground wire in my set up, I grounded the light bucket to the frame. These were also lighting up the driveway about 10 feet out from the tire when installed.

[Brian]

I too installed a Nat'l Cycle light bar last year.  If I remember correctly, the instructions had me connecting the power to EITHER the high beam or the low beam circuit, my choice.  Number one, I wanted it to be on all the time, regardless high or low.  And secondly, I wanted redundency having an entirely different circuit from the main lights powering the aux lights.  I connected it to the neutral indicator power.  Yes, it stays illuminated when cranking the engine, but it has never given me any problems.

The workmanship and chrome job on the Nat'l Cycle lights is far superior to the Cobra aux lights that I put on my Suzuki a year ago.

Did those accessories come with your light bar? They really add a lot to the looks of the bike. You lucky devil.

[Jess Tolbirt]

I’ve had the National Cycle Light Bar installed on mine for about a year now and the only issue I had was the ground wire inside one of the light housings shorted out shortly after I installed the light bar and blew the fuse and burned the wire. Repaired the wire and all is now good. As for the alignment, you are correct. It’s a pain. I didn’t aim mine prior to going to Inzane last year (guess I hadn’t driven in the dark before I left, the wife makes me come home before the street lights come on) and I realized they were only pointing about 4 feet in front of the bike while driving in the very dark Michigan woods. Due to my natural energy conservation, I still haven’t gotten around to adjusting them. I mostly got them for a little extra daytime visibility for cagers.

The ground wire shorted out? aint that what its sposed to do?
o wait nevermind i could short to a hot too...my first thought was like when a hot wire shorts to ground,,,then a ground wire shorts to ground,,,
old timers deiaise,,(cant spell deaise either)

[Tailgate Tommy]

That's funny. You're correct, the hot wire to the bulb actully was shorted directly to the ground wire causing it to smoke for a short time and burn the insulation off before the fuse blew. 

[rww930]

so there were lights in that picture? didn't notice.

[JC]

Regardless of these issues I happy with the end result. If you are not handy at DYI projects, let your dealer install it.

  Great write-up Brian! I agree completely with your take.

I have mine pointed the same as the low beam and it really helps, and it won't blind the cager in front of me. The original 35w blubs didn't last very long and are hard to find, so I've resorted to using the standard 55w found at most parts houses. Power is connected through a relay, using one of the three switches in the show chrome box (which hasn't leaked (yet)) to activate.

You will also find that you can get replacement/different color turn signal lenses and visors for it at your local Hardly stealer, but I'm still looking for a set of high beams like in Fudd's post!