Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« on: September 23, 2011, 09:00:59 PM » |
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Yesterday before heading to school I did a quick pre-ride check and found the brake light switch on the rear brake pedal didn't work. Well, after I got home and I started looking at the switch, I found that the brake pedal was overly stiff. I pulled it apart to lubricate it and noticed that any lubricant that might have been in there from the factory was completely gone. After re-lubing and reassembling everything, my rear brake was way more powerful than it had been in recent memory. So those of you who have recently bought Valkyries and have been unimpressed with the rear brakes, I strongly suggest you pull the lever apart and put a coat of your favourite grease on the mating surfaces.
I'm deliberately omitting details because I'd prefer this message remain on the general board where more may see it, rather than be bumped to the tech board.
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2011, 09:44:09 PM » |
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Thanks for sharing that.
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junior
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« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2011, 04:13:54 AM » |
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am i the only one that does a monthy check and lube? brake and clutch levers throttle cables and brake pedel
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Big IV
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« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2011, 04:16:14 AM » |
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Seem like Mike in SC posted something similar and was also happy with it.
Here is my question. When you pulled the brake pedal did the spring present a problem? Did it come unseated? Is it fixed in somehow? Okay, three related questions.
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"Ride Free Citizen!"
VRCCDS0176
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junior
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« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2011, 04:22:18 AM » |
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i never pulled the pedel, i use liquid wrench chain lube on them joints and it seems to been working just fine, been doing it sence 06 when i bought the bike
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2011, 05:44:10 AM » |
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Seem like Mike in SC posted something similar and was also happy with it.
Here is my question. When you pulled the brake pedal did the spring present a problem? Did it come unseated? Is it fixed in somehow? Okay, three related questions.
I don't remember having to fight with the spring, so I'll have to go with "no problem presented"... since then I haven't taken it apart, but I have spritzed up in there with Tri-Flow a few times, and the action continues to be good...  -Mike |
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Big IV
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« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2011, 06:41:41 AM » |
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I lube my levers annually. It is probably time for that again. I haven't tried lubing the pedal from the outside.
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"Ride Free Citizen!"
VRCCDS0176
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Tundra
Member
Posts: 3882
2014 Valkyrie 1800
Seminole, Florida
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« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2011, 06:43:49 AM » |
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Deluxe...That's what I want  I've never lubed it and always thought my rear brakes kind of sucked, even with the CT. Lubing today, riding tomorrow, we'll see  Good thread Gryphon Rider, I'm still learning things about my Valkyrie here  |
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« Last Edit: September 24, 2011, 06:46:00 AM by Tundra »
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If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2011, 04:11:34 PM » |
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Here is my question. When you pulled the brake pedal did the spring present a problem? Did it come unseated? Is it fixed in somehow? Okay, three related questions.
It was just a matter of hooking the spring on the mounting plate, then using some pressure with a screwdriver to align the post end of the spring with the hole in the pedal as you tighten the pivot. It's easier than the side stand spring. am i the only one that does a monthy check and lube? brake and clutch levers throttle cables and brake pedel
I probably should do a monthly check and lube, but it's more like every other year on the brake and clutch levers, every 3 or four years on the throttle cables (although I do have spare cables in my garage or with me on a trip), and I'm now likely to do the brake pedal when I do the levers. |
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Rowdy
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« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2011, 08:37:31 AM » |
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I checked - sure enough it was sticking, the brake lights where staying ON as well I just made the assumption the rear brakes, had less than desirable performance, that I just needed to live with.  Sprayed mine before heading out this past weekend with WD 40 it made a big difference  Thanks for the heads up 
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Rowdy 99 Gr / Sv I/S 81 Bl CB900 Custom 73 Bl CL350 (sold) 06 Tit GL1800 86 & 84 Magna's V30, V45, V65 (Sold) 77 GL1000 naked wing (Sold) 86 & 84 GL1200 wings (Sold)  Semper Fi "Leathernec |
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« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2011, 08:44:49 AM » |
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I reckon a lot of you should be considering replacing the OEM brake hose on your bikes. It's gettign pretty old and with higher mileage bikes it's had to withstand a lot of use.
Fore and aft.
I have stainless hose on my KLR. Made quite a difference and it's something I plan on doing in the near future to the ST1300.
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doubletee
Member
Posts: 1165
VRCC # 22269
Fort Wayne, IN
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« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2011, 09:54:22 AM » |
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Okay, here's the stupid question of the day: How does cleaning/lubing the brake pedal pivot point do anything to improve the braking power of hydraulic brakes? Unless it's so crudded up (that's a technical term, ya know) that it simply won't move far enough to enable proper action of the hydraulics, I'm confused about this. |
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six2go #152
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« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2011, 10:16:05 AM » |
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Okay, here's the stupid question of the day: How does cleaning/lubing the brake pedal pivot point do anything to improve the braking power of hydraulic brakes? Unless it's so crudded up (that's a technical term, ya know) that it simply won't move far enough to enable proper action of the hydraulics, I'm confused about this. I was wondering the same thing Tony. My rear brakes have never been worth a sh!! and I've had it for 13 years and put every mile on it so I know it fairly well. I think it's just one of those "feel good" things. You know......"I squirted some stuff on the pivot, therefore the brakes are better". |
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indybobm
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« Reply #13 on: September 26, 2011, 10:43:12 AM » |
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The only thing I can think of is if the pedal is not returning to its starting point because it sticks, then you would not get full travel of the piston in the master cylinder. This would result in lower pressure to the rear caliper.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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The Anvil
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« Reply #14 on: September 26, 2011, 10:49:03 AM » |
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I reckon a lot of you should be considering replacing the OEM brake hose on your bikes. It's gettign pretty old and with higher mileage bikes it's had to withstand a lot of use.
Fore and aft.
I have stainless hose on my KLR. Made quite a difference and it's something I plan on doing in the near future to the ST1300.
I'll second this. Odds are the hoses/lines aren't going to fail any time soon but aftermarket lines do make a big difference in feel on pretty much any bike. And friction (a crudded up pivot for instance) working against any propelling force (your foot) will reduce that force's efficiency resulting in less effort at the pedal for a given amount of desired braking force. |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Jess Tolbirt
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« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2011, 10:55:51 AM » |
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when pressure is applied to a rubber hose it will swell a little bit,,stainless hoses wont,,
the thing about the return above is dead on,,,
also when your hoses get old and crack on the inside, you can force fluid pass this crack and when you let off the brakes they wont release, that raises the pucker factor by 100 if you bear down on the brakes and they hang on,,,
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custom1
Member
Posts: 333
01 Interstate
SW Pa
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« Reply #16 on: September 26, 2011, 01:02:58 PM » |
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Another thing to check if your rear brakes suck is the pin that the caliper slides on. When I first got my Valk the rear brakes were terrible. When I took them apart this is what I found.  The caliper was stuck fast to the pin. Would not budge, let alone float like it is suppose to. Here are the pads. One half worn the other toast.  Bought a new pin and oem pads. Muucho better now. |
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John
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #17 on: September 26, 2011, 01:14:31 PM » |
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The pin that the pads slide on is important to keep clean too. There's a moving-target area on the pin that stays clean-ish while you're wearing your pads down, but when you change to new thick pads, the clean place is not where your pads are anymore, and the pads don't slide out away from the rotor so easy when you're not on the brakes... the first time I rebuilt my rear caliper, I didn't clean the pad-pin, and the rotor got hot enough to sizzle spit... I thought about what was going on, came up with the pin idea, cleaned it, and problem solved...  -Mike |
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