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Author Topic: Choke cable replacement process  (Read 9022 times)
ShiftHappens
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Posts: 84

South Suburbs Chicago, IL


« on: September 24, 2011, 05:37:32 PM »

I bought a 1999 Valkryie Interstate earlier this month with 29k miles. I broke the choke cable by the lever - it frayed. I have a new one on order and anticipate it arriving this week. I have been looking at the job and wondering the process. It looks like a lot of stuff is in the way. Do I need to remove the tank? Do I need to remove the cowling? How easy is it to feed the new cable down the neck? Should I lube the cable? Are there any other parts that need lube to make it work smoother? What type of lube? Any help or pictures would be appreciated.
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1999 Interstate

wiseguy
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Posts: 84


My '98 Valkyrie

French Camp, Ca.


« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2011, 06:02:03 PM »

Here is a link for you to download the Honda Service manual. It should answer all of your questions.


http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html
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After being kicked in the face by my horse, Broken nose, swolen eyes, blood everywhere. My wife says and I quote; I learned something today....."It's going to take a hell of a lot more than a baseball bat"
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2011, 07:23:53 PM »

It's actually a pretty easy r&r.  Unbolt the tank and move it to the right side.  Remove the left choke linkage cover and disconnect the choke cable.  Pull it out from the front of the neck cover.  Install the new one and connect it to the choke linkage.  Open the plastic cable holders along the handlebar and remove the old choke cable then install the new one.  Finally remove the screws from the left switchbox, separate the halves and disconnect the old choke cable.  Install the new one and put the switchbox back together.  Adjust the choke cable, reinstall the choke linkage cover and bolt the tank back in place.  You're done.

Marty

Btw, you don't have to lube a new cable.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2011, 02:24:39 AM by X Ring » Logged

People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
GOOSE
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D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2011, 07:43:32 PM »

you mean the left switchbox don't you?
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sugerbear
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Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2011, 08:42:16 PM »

tape the new one onto the old one and pull it through.

works pretty good if the tape joint is small.
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The Anvil
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Posts: 5291


Derry, NH


« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2011, 08:43:52 PM »

It's a VERY easy replacement. But I personally ditched mine altogether.
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But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
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1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2011, 02:25:20 AM »

you mean the left switchbox don't you?

Oops!   Embarrassed  Thanks for catching that Goose.

Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
ShiftHappens
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Posts: 84

South Suburbs Chicago, IL


« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2011, 01:33:58 PM »

Thanks for the suggestions. I am hoping to get the part tomorrow and work on it this week.
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1999 Interstate

X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #8 on: September 25, 2011, 07:00:55 PM »

15-30 minutes depending on how fast you are and if you need the halfway through the job beer.   Wink

Marty
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2011, 07:58:51 PM »

tape the new one onto the old one and pull it through.

works pretty good if the tape joint is small.

Cable to cable? I would take the cable end off the carb (bar/plate?) and attached string to it. Pull it out, attach to the replacement, and pull it back through.

I don't know how much of the above removing of the tank & etc, to accomplish the job, but this is what I did on my CM400 and will need to do on my GL1100 this winter.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

ShiftHappens
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Posts: 84

South Suburbs Chicago, IL


« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2011, 08:57:37 PM »

I replaced the choke cable this afternoon. This was my first time so it took longer than expected. I used the suggestion to attach a string (I used weed whacker line) and it worked great. Please note you need to attach the cable to the left switchbox before feeding through to attach to the linkage (I found out the hard way). It was a bit tricky getting through the interstates radiator side cover. Those who said it was a 15 minute job likely don’t have to deal with that. I also removed the steering side cover (I believe that is the correct name) to ease putting the cable in the correct place. Everything is working fine now. The choke lever is still hard to move, but I believe it is because it has to move parts on 6 carburetors. I don’t think it can be lubricated to improve.

I also changed the air filter as long as I was moving the tank anyway. I am glad I did as it was very dirty and was probably the original.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Also of note, I bought the part from hondaparts-direct.com, which I was satisfied with the pricing and promptness.
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1999 Interstate

9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2011, 04:15:36 AM »

put a little spray of wd40 on each enrichener slide at the carb and work them back a forth a few times.  This will ease the strain on the cable....
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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