FOR THOSE UNSURE ABOUT GOING TO THE DARKSIDE (car tire)

[Rio Wil]

Are there any clearance issues?  Are there any modifications necessary???

With no wheel bearing mods you're going to have clearance issues plus wheel bearings going bad very soon.

But you will have a better ride until those issues begin that is.  2funny

HUH.....this statement simply isn't true. The wheel bearing mod has nothing to do with clearance and there is no proof of the wheel bearings wearing out any earlier.  I have 170K miles on my IS with the last 100K on car tires......when do ya think the bearings are scheduled to self destruct?? :crazy2:Just crazy talk

Oh sorry, the part about a better ride is true....

That's an expected answer and it's focused on generality's. That is also focused on another argument entirely and not to what I am responding to. Let me elaborate and get past that.

There is but I have no arguments concerning Honda wheel bearings being made deficient, bad or anything of the sort. As a matter of fact, Honda made parts are superior when used for what they were designed for and that is my point. That is another argument entirely and not to what I am responding to here. That is someone elses' cup of tea.

Let me put the focus on those 2 things that I suggested in my earlier statement above concerning the mods when changing over to a CT:
#1- there is a weak spot concerning the rear wheel and using larger tires. It's the single row bearing on the left side rear wheel.
#2- when changing that single row bearing to a double row, the same bearing that's on the other side (right). That added space effects the clearance of the tire and the wheel alignment is changed when its a bigger tire.

The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know. 

...and those problems are:
#1- clearance issues and
#2- early wheel bearing wearing out or breaking.   

"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I can't wait to hear about how you discovered this (since everyone doing this mod knows it is a "must" that the spacer be reduced)......what did you use to spread the swing arm to get a unmodified spacer installed......and item #2 is still not true.    Oh wait....I know a guy that thought about going DS and his wheel bearings disintegrated 50 thousand miles BEFORE he had the thought!!!

[valky1500]

Are there any clearance issues?  Are there any modifications necessary???

With no wheel bearing mods you're going to have clearance issues plus wheel bearings going bad very soon.

But you will have a better ride until those issues begin that is.  2funny

HUH.....this statement simply isn't true. The wheel bearing mod has nothing to do with clearance and there is no proof of the wheel bearings wearing out any earlier.  I have 170K miles on my IS with the last 100K on car tires......when do ya think the bearings are scheduled to self destruct?? :crazy2:Just crazy talk

Oh sorry, the part about a better ride is true....

That's an expected answer and it's focused on generality's. That is also focused on another argument entirely and not to what I am responding to. Let me elaborate and get past that.

There is but I have no arguments concerning Honda wheel bearings being made deficient, bad or anything of the sort. As a matter of fact, Honda made parts are superior when used for what they were designed for and that is my point. That is another argument entirely and not to what I am responding to here. That is someone elses' cup of tea.

Let me put the focus on those 2 things that I suggested in my earlier statement above concerning the mods when changing over to a CT:
#1- there is a weak spot concerning the rear wheel and using larger tires. It's the single row bearing on the left side rear wheel.
#2- when changing that single row bearing to a double row, the same bearing that's on the other side (right). That added space effects the clearance of the tire and the wheel alignment is changed when its a bigger tire.

The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know. 

...and those problems are:
#1- clearance issues and
#2- early wheel bearing wearing out or breaking.   

"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I can't wait to hear about how you discovered this (since everyone doing this mod knows it is a "must" that the spacer be reduced)......what did you use to spread the swing arm to get a unmodified spacer installed......and item #2 is still not true.    Oh wait....I know a guy that thought about going DS and his wheel bearings disintegrated 50 thousand miles BEFORE he had the thought!!!

Because you're not listening, you may have a longer wait to hear it than you can now imagine. 

[valky1500]

Are there any clearance issues?  Are there any modifications necessary???

With no wheel bearing mods you're going to have clearance issues plus wheel bearings going bad very soon.

But you will have a better ride until those issues begin that is.  2funny

HUH.....this statement simply isn't true. The wheel bearing mod has nothing to do with clearance and there is no proof of the wheel bearings wearing out any earlier.  I have 170K miles on my IS with the last 100K on car tires......when do ya think the bearings are scheduled to self destruct?? :crazy2:Just crazy talk

Oh sorry, the part about a better ride is true....

That's an expected answer and it's focused on generality's. That is also focused on another argument entirely and not to what I am responding to. Let me elaborate and get past that.

There is but I have no arguments concerning Honda wheel bearings being made deficient, bad or anything of the sort. As a matter of fact, Honda made parts are superior when used for what they were designed for and that is my point. That is another argument entirely and not to what I am responding to here. That is someone elses' cup of tea.

Let me put the focus on those 2 things that I suggested in my earlier statement above concerning the mods when changing over to a CT:
#1- there is a weak spot concerning the rear wheel and using larger tires. It's the single row bearing on the left side rear wheel.
#2- when changing that single row bearing to a double row, the same bearing that's on the other side (right). That added space effects the clearance of the tire and the wheel alignment is changed when its a bigger tire.

The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know. 

...and those problems are:
#1- clearance issues and
#2- early wheel bearing wearing out or breaking.   

"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I can't wait to hear about how you discovered this (since everyone doing this mod knows it is a "must" that the spacer be reduced)......what did you use to spread the swing arm to get a unmodified spacer installed......and item #2 is still not true.    Oh wait....I know a guy that thought about going DS and his wheel bearings disintegrated 50 thousand miles BEFORE he had the thought!!!

Because you're not listening, you may have a longer wait to hear it than you can now imagine. 

BTW, those single row bearings are one and the very same that were designed and made for where they are used now. The front wheel uses them and that's without the added stress of tongue to the tire to the ground that a CT adds. They too wear out up front in time. 

[Gryphon Rider]

BTW, those single row bearings are one and the very same that were designed and made for where they are used now. The front wheel uses them and that's without the added stress of tongue to the tire to the ground that a CT adds. They too wear out up front in time. 

Now I get it!  No worries; I don't let anyone put their tongue on my tires, front or back.  Well, not when I'm moving anyway. 

[valky1500]

BTW, those single row bearings are one and the very same that were designed and made for where they are used now. The front wheel uses them and that's without the added stress of tongue to the tire to the ground that a CT adds. They too wear out up front in time. 

Now I get it!  No worries; I don't let anyone put their tongue on my tires, front or back.  Well, not when I'm moving anyway. 

 

[Rio Wil]

WOW...all I can say is.. ???

So this is not a sincere offer...."Ask me how I know"

[Led]

I agree with the 40 pounds of tire pressure in the CT.  That should be a MINIMUM! When I first mounted one, I DESPISED it!!  I was running about 35 pounds. I hated it. She wallowed a LOT in the corners! It was actually scary.......at 70 miles an hour, on a quite tight corner on a "Super Slab"    

But when I finally aired it up, BUT GOOD, She seem's to handle VASTLY better! After a little learning curve, I no longer notice the difference between the bike tire and the car tire anymore.........with THAT said......I have never tried a "two-up" scenario yet (Do not wish to risk it yet).........but SO far........

 

[valky1500]

I agree with the 40 pounds of tire pressure in the CT.  That should be a MINIMUM! When I first mounted one, I DESPISED it!!  I was running about 35 pounds. I hated it. She wallowed a LOT in the corners! It was actually scary.......at 70 miles an hour, on a quite tight corner on a "Super Slab"    

But when I finally aired it up, BUT GOOD, She seem's to handle VASTLY better! After a little learning curve, I no longer notice the difference between the bike tire and the car tire anymore.........with THAT said......I have never tried a "two-up" scenario yet (Do not wish to risk it yet).........but SO far........

 

+1  It also makes the edges more rounded that adds to riding comfort and handling. 

[valky1500]

I agree with the 40 pounds of tire pressure in the CT.  That should be a MINIMUM! When I first mounted one, I DESPISED it!!  I was running about 35 pounds. I hated it. She wallowed a LOT in the corners! It was actually scary.......at 70 miles an hour, on a quite tight corner on a "Super Slab"    

But when I finally aired it up, BUT GOOD, She seem's to handle VASTLY better! After a little learning curve, I no longer notice the difference between the bike tire and the car tire anymore.........with THAT said......I have never tried a "two-up" scenario yet (Do not wish to risk it yet).........but SO far........

 

+1  It also makes the edges more rounded that adds to riding comfort and handling. 

...and yes that includes 2 up.   

[Led]

Now......THIS brings me to OTHER questions!!!!!

The max tire pressure on the majority of car tires is about 44 pounds. I am already running 40+.......not to mention what the rim itself, is rated for, pressure wise?  Most "bike tires" are about 32 pounds........

I know you Guys have tens of thousands of miles on these tires, but DERN IT!!  It can certainly confuse Folks!!!!!   The numbers just do not add up to the Mortal Man, but the formula .........still seem's to work.......????


 

[Skinhead]

Car tire on a car is much higher loaded that car tire on a Valkyrie.  An Interstate weighs what, 1000 lbs with the driver?  Figure even weight distribution front to rear that's 500lbs on a car tire on the back of a valk.  That ain't crap!!!

[valky1500]

Car tire on a car is much higher loaded that car tire on a Valkyrie.  An Interstate weighs what, 1000 lbs with the driver?  Figure even weight distribution front to rear that's 500lbs on a car tire on the back of a valk.  That ain't crap!!!

+1... and that's very similar to my thinking when I first went darkside on the Valkyries 12 or more years ago.

I have 2 Valkyries and the first CT was on the '98 standard. I looked for a CT that was as close in circumference to the OEM as possible and choose the 215 60 16 Goodyear. It was wider than the OEM but had the same circumference. Plus I had an extra sitting around in my garage from the car. So I used that to experiment with.

The first thing I noticed was the closeness issues as it was rubbing somewhere. So I did the nut-cage mod and it was still rubbing. In time I learned the rub came from the welded plate on the side of the swing arm. Some were saying how they used 215 55 16 but they were too short for me. Was this tire I was using too wide or what? It was an ever so light rub and I decided to leave it alone for the rest of that season and into the next. Then the left bearing went out so I replaced that.

At that time I went to a 205 65 16 on the IS. It was taller but thinner and it didn't have any rubbing issues at all. That was for me. I worried about it rubbing up top and lifted the shocks accordingly so it wouldn't go into the fender and it never did. Since then my shocks have been set to 3 and I ride 2 up all the time.

Then the wheel bearing went out again on the standard. It was the single row. Something wasn't just right with the Valkyries and CT's. I couldn't just put my finger on it as I needed more info. So much just wasn't known or available then. It was around that time I learned the GL1800 used two double row wheel bearings on the front on each side. I got the idea to replace it with a double row bearing but when trying to replace the axle found it didn't fit. It was too tight and I had to ride the IS for the remainder of that season.

Somewhere I learned about shortening the spacer and tried that. It was like magic when everything fit just right and I had my standard back. After that I did the same mods to the IS. They both have the same size 205 65 16 tires but they are different brand names and there are no rubs. Plus never again has there been so much as a squeak from the wheel bearings on either bike.

If you're going darkside you will need to learn about the new steps in maintenance that isn't in the book. Taking it apart at least once a year to check for parts wear in the pumpkin and drive shaft areas and learning about regreasing and replacing the old O-rings with new before you reinstall is essential.

Those are the questions people ask who come in here and this is the place where the experience talks and has the answers.  

[X Ring]

#2- when changing that single row bearing to a double row, the same bearing that's on the other side (right). That added space effects the clearance of the tire and the wheel alignment is changed when its a bigger tire.

The added space on the axle that is taken up from the new double row bearing can be eliminated by taking it off of the spacer and with those two changes the problems will disappear.

Ask me how I know. 

Just wondering how you came up with those two epiphanies.

Marty

[Tropic traveler]

I let my car's (Saturn) engine oil drop too low.  At the same time the bearing on the accessory belt idler pulley failed.  I added oil and changed the idler pulley bearing and the car runs fine now.  Now I know that the next time my oil gets too low, I should be ready to buy an idler pulley bearing.

 

Changed the spark plugs on my truck. The next day my brakes went out....... I'm never changing the plugs on anything I own ever again! 

[Rio Wil]

 So much just wasn't known or available then. It was around that time I learned the GL1800 used two double row wheel bearings at the rear and on each side.


Hey dude.....don'tcha know the GL1800 rear wheel HAS NO BEARINGS, and it is attached to the final drive just like a car rim.....5 lug nuts

And I think I just had an epiphany......TGIFN!!!!

[valky1500]

+1

Point made, point taken.

If I only knew then what I know today, it would be a different world entirely...

and most likely wouldn't have a Pingle.  

[valky1500]

I let my car's (Saturn) engine oil drop too low.  At the same time the bearing on the accessory belt idler pulley failed.  I added oil and changed the idler pulley bearing and the car runs fine now.  Now I know that the next time my oil gets too low, I should be ready to buy an idler pulley bearing.

 

Changed the spark plugs on my truck. The next day my brakes went out....... I'm never changing the plugs on anything I own ever again! 

If you're saying the idler pulley went out from the low oil pressure...

I'd guess that it really went out when you put a motorcycle tire on your car. 

[valky1500]

So much just wasn't known or available then. It was around that time I learned the GL1800 used two double row wheel bearings at the rear and on each side.


Hey dude.....don'tcha know the GL1800 rear wheel HAS NO BEARINGS, and it is attached to the final drive just like a car rim.....5 lug nuts

And I think I just had an epiphany......TGIFN!!!!

Sorry I didn't address what you asked me. I'm not talking about changing the rear tire like you are. Even though the bearings are encased in oil and they are not exposed when talking off the tire, they still DO exist inside the rear assembly.

BTW, my IS rides on air. Go figure. 

[Rio Wil]

So much just wasn't known or available then. It was around that time I learned the GL1800 used two double row wheel bearings at the rear and on each side.


Hey dude.....don'tcha know the GL1800 rear wheel HAS NO BEARINGS, and it is attached to the final drive just like a car rim.....5 lug nuts

And I think I just had an epiphany......TGIFN!!!!


===================================================


OK...here is a link to the GL1800 final drive schematic.....where are the two double row bearings????

http://www.dealercostparts.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/GL1800_A_%2801%29_MOTORCYCLE%2c_USA%2c_VIN%23_1HFSC470-1A000001_TO_1HFSC470-1A099999/FINAL_DRIVEN_GEAR/GL1800-01-A/2Y14MCA1MCA4F1800A

[valky1500]

So much just wasn't known or available then. It was around that time I learned the GL1800 used two double row wheel bearings at the rear and on each side.


Hey dude.....don'tcha know the GL1800 rear wheel HAS NO BEARINGS, and it is attached to the final drive just like a car rim.....5 lug nuts

And I think I just had an epiphany......TGIFN!!!!


===================================================


OK...here is a link to the GL1800 final drive schematic.....where are the two double row bearings????

http://www.dealercostparts.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=HOM#/Honda/GL1800_A_%2801%29_MOTORCYCLE%2c_USA%2c_VIN%23_1HFSC470-1A000001_TO_1HFSC470-1A099999/FINAL_DRIVEN_GEAR/GL1800-01-A/2Y14MCA1MCA4F1800A

You are a funny one. 

If you look closely at the picture you supplied the rear bearings on the GL1800 are floating in oil inside the drive case. That is not at all what this topic is about.

The bearing I was saying that needs to be replaced on the rear wheel of the Valkyrie is the single row bearing on the rear wheel of the Valkyrie (GL1500). It is the same single row bearings that are found on the front wheel of the Valkyrie and they do go bad up there but I didn't say that until now. We were talking about the rear wheel single row bearings. OK so far? 

Those 2 single row bearings, the ones causing the problem, the ones on the front wheel of the Valkyrie were replaced with 2 double row bearings on each side of the front wheel on the GL1800 Gold Wings. I was talking about bearings not wheels and that's front wheel yes. 

I do realize the micro filch you supplied as well as the picture in the book doesn't show this but that's 4 double row bearings with 2 on each side up front. 

I hope that helps someone. 

[Rio Wil]

Memo to self: And I think I just had an epiphany......TGIFN!!!!

[Grumpy]

hmm, need to order more plexiglass bellies, so folks with their head up their butt can see where they are going.

[Rio Wil]

Now thats funny......but I don't think there is a cure for optorectalitis

[WamegoRob]

Are there any clearance issues?  Are there any modifications necessary???

With no wheel bearing mods you're going to have clearance issues plus wheel bearings going bad very soon.

Billy Madison - Ultimate Insult (Academic Decathlon)	powered by Aeva

[2qmedic]

Hmmm....this is the way it is...
-Double bearing mod has absolutely nothing to do with tire clearance unless you don't reduce the spacer thickness (then the hub will not fit).
-Having a Car tire does not automatically mean left bearing failure., but it does mean you have now gone to the "Dark Side".
-I do know that if I wash my bike, it will surely rain...
-I do know that once past the learing curve, I love my CT.
BTW, the video on last post...Priceless !!!

[valky1500]

Now......THIS brings me to OTHER questions!!!!!

The max tire pressure on the majority of car tires is about 44 pounds. I am already running 40+.......not to mention what the rim itself, is rated for, pressure wise?  Most "bike tires" are about 32 pounds........

I know you Guys have tens of thousands of miles on these tires, but DERN IT!!  It can certainly confuse Folks!!!!!   The numbers just do not add up to the Mortal Man, but the formula .........still seem's to work.......????


 

The whole point of certain tire pressures is with the tire design. Being within the stated pressures allows that particular tire to hold the Tire Bead to set properly on the rim. Of course with a motorcycle like the Valkyrie which is on the heavier side the rim holds a CT bead quit well that stays in the groove without much ado even at the higher tire pressures and speeds. This is preferable for obvious reasons with high speed being one of them.   
The negatives of a lower pressure tire being on a motorcycle is the characteristic of bulging at the sides sides. It's more bouncy yes but can also rub when and where not wanted. 

[valky1500]

Hmmm....this is the way it is...
-Double bearing mod has absolutely nothing to do with tire clearance unless you don't reduce the spacer thickness (then the hub will not fit).
-Having a Car tire does not automatically mean left bearing failure., but it does mean you have now gone to the "Dark Side".
-I do know that if I wash my bike, it will surely rain...
-I do know that once past the learing curve, I love my CT.
BTW, the video on last post...Priceless !!!

-I also know that the single row bearing doesn't belong there with a CT

-and I don't need to meet the Sausage Monster to believe it. 

[Dag]

I am impressed with all the knowledge and experience that exists here....
I say no more

[Rio Wil]

I am impressed with all the knowledge and experience that exists here....
I say no more

Well said from the country of the peace prize.....     I fear though that some will miss the subtlety.

[Gryphon Rider]

The negatives of a lower pressure tire being on a motorcycle is the characteristic of bulging at the sides sides. It's more bouncy yes but can also rub when and where not wanted.

When my tires have less pressure (any type of tire on any type of vehicle), from what I have seen they tend to only bulge more where the tire meets the road.  But I have to admit I haven't used my feeler gauges between the tire and the drive shaft tube (or anywhere else) at different tire pressures.  I'd be interested in seeing your data, however.

[Grumpy]

The negatives of a lower pressure tire being on a motorcycle is the characteristic of bulging at the sides sides. It's more bouncy yes but can also rub when and where not wanted.

When my tires have less pressure (any type of tire on any type of vehicle), from what I have seen they tend to only bulge more where the tire meets the road.  But I have to admit I haven't used my feeler gauges between the tire and the drive shaft tube (or anywhere else) at different tire pressures.  I'd be interested in seeing your data, however.

Feeler gauge  ???, I run an Austone Taxi tire, can stick my fingers between the tire and swingarm. Good 1/2 in clearance.

[Dr Bobs Patient]

If I wasn't already a darksider, and read this thread, I'd think y'all were down right bat crap crazy!

Or maybe I am bat crap crazy!!!!     

DBP

[valky1500]

The negatives of a lower pressure tire being on a motorcycle is the characteristic of bulging at the sides sides. It's more bouncy yes but can also rub when and where not wanted.

When my tires have less pressure (any type of tire on any type of vehicle), from what I have seen they tend to only bulge more where the tire meets the road.  But I have to admit I haven't used my feeler gauges between the tire and the drive shaft tube (or anywhere else) at different tire pressures.  I'd be interested in seeing your data, however.

Feeler gauge  ???, I run an Austone Taxi tire, can stick my fingers between the tire and swingarm. Good 1/2 in clearance.

That sure beats your tongue...
or whatever else ya got there...
or maybe don't. 

[valky1500]

If I wasn't already a darksider, and read this thread, I'd think y'all were down right bat crap crazy!

Or maybe I am bat crap crazy!!!!     

DBP

So much for taxi tire  ;Ds.

[Regis]

Ive ran 3 different DS tires in 9 yrs. Bridgestone Potenza , GYTT, and now a General Evertrek . I like the GYTT best , they are all good but I've noticed the GE is a little squishier in the side wall than the other 2 . When you lean in a curve you can feel the side wall "collapse" slightly before it sets then it sticks like glue . I had a fellow rider tell me he was amazed when he watched my tire do it following me through Deals Gap . He was on a sportbike and was intrigued by the CT . I dont recommend them to anyone I just tell them to try it if you want to . It works for me and have had no issues at all . From looking at my records I dont see anything to show premature bearing wear from a CT . I usually try to replace things at intervals before failures occur though .

[vanagon40]

. . . From looking at my records I dont see anything to show premature bearing wear from a CT . . . .

Although I have not made a study of this phenomenon, I believe the general consensus is that mounting a car tire on the Valkyrie does NOT result in premature bearing wear.  However, valky1500 had one or more failed bearings after installing a car tire, so he has apparently concluded that the car tire causes bearing failure and his mission is to preach the necessity of modifying the left rear bearing following the installation of a car tire.

[valky1500]

. . . From looking at my records I dont see anything to show premature bearing wear from a CT . . . .

Although I have not made a study of this phenomenon, I believe the general consensus is that mounting a car tire on the Valkyrie does NOT result in premature bearing wear.  However, valky1500 had one or more failed bearings after installing a car tire, so he has apparently concluded that the car tire causes bearing failure and his mission is to preach the necessity of modifying the left rear bearing following the installation of a car tire.

That's a fair assessment to make. To explain it a little more, my experience with 2 failed bearings in question is not unique to me only. They even do fail on the front wheels often. Those early failures after changing to a CT were the beginning of my quest to find the culprit and answer why.

To keep it short, the bearing in question is a single row bearing that was designed for the earlier GW1500 models. It's currently used as a front wheel bearing and maybe even the rear wheel on earlier models. It's an older design and it was never changed on the Valkyrie most likely because of the early demise of the father of the Valkyries, who was killed in a racing accident (not a Valkyrie).

The bearing in question is used on the Valkyries front wheels after '97 as an update because of smaller bearing diameter failure. It's also on the right side of the rear wheel and that's with using a motorcycle tire. The stress limits of a single row bearing by design may very well fall within the weight limits when used with OEM sized motorcycle tires.Change that tire to a CT and give it more torque only adds a few more elements to the stress formula beyond the scope of a single row bearing. So, it then goes beyond the design and it shows by it's early and eminent failure. No matter there.   

Newer bearings that are designed for those types of stress limits are double row and called angular. They are even far superior to placing 2 single row bearings side by side and on a plain. That is the Bearing update being referred to here.   

AND... it's for safety purposes as well as the feeling of well-being for those who don't want the bother... only. 

[valky1500]

. . . From looking at my records I dont see anything to show premature bearing wear from a CT . . . .

Although I have not made a study of this phenomenon, I believe the general consensus is that mounting a car tire on the Valkyrie does NOT result in premature bearing wear.  However, valky1500 had one or more failed bearings after installing a car tire, so he has apparently concluded that the car tire causes bearing failure and his mission is to preach the necessity of modifying the left rear bearing following the installation of a car tire.

That's a fair assessment to make. To explain it a little more, my experience with 2 failed bearings in question is not unique to me only. They even do fail on the front wheels often. Those early failures after changing to a CT were the beginning of my quest to find the culprit and answer why.

To keep it short, the bearing in question is a single row bearing that was designed for the earlier GW1500 models. It's currently used as a front wheel bearing and maybe even the rear wheel on earlier models. It's an older design and it was never changed on the Valkyrie most likely because of the early demise of the father of the Valkyries, who was killed in a racing accident (not a Valkyrie).

The bearing in question is used on the Valkyries front wheels after '97 as an update because of smaller bearing diameter failure. It's also on the right side of the rear wheel and that's with using a motorcycle tire. The stress limits of a single row bearing by design may very well fall within the weight limits when used with OEM sized motorcycle tires.Change that tire to a CT and give it more torque only adds a few more elements to the stress formula beyond the scope of a single row bearing. So, it then goes beyond the design and it shows by it's early and eminent failure. No matter there.   

Newer bearings that are designed for those types of stress limits are double row and called angular. They are even far superior to placing 2 single row bearings side by side and on a plain. That is the Bearing update being referred to here.   

AND... it's for safety purposes as well as the feeling of well-being for those who don't want the bother... only. 

AND... it's for safety purposes as well as the feeling of well-being for those who don't want the bother... only. 
[/quote]

Josef A. Boyd, aka GL Joe, was considered the "father" of the GL1500C Valkyrie F6C motorcycle. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Josef_Boyd
Bearing mod as discussed on valkrie riders forum a long time ago. http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/5204_bearing_mod.pdf 

[Ricky-D]

Bearing based BS.......

Tires have no basis in bearing calculations. None, Period.

Fat asses and multiple fat asses which overload the bikes maximum weight carrying capacity have more influence on bearing failure than:

Anything tire, that you can think of.

***

[Tundra]

  I also have gone through 3 left rear wheel bearings and one rear wheel within 20,000 miles while I was using a CT. I am not blaming it on the CT and cannot offer a reason why.
  Maybe my wheel was damaged possibly due to a slipped bearing prior to my ownership? I really will never know, if it was caused by CT my guess is that the Tennessee Wild Bunch would have reported similiar problems long before this Florida Flatlander?  I'm not a fat ass, I'm a tiny little man