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Author Topic: Strapping the Right Swingarm for rear wheel removal.  (Read 1641 times)
RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« on: February 04, 2012, 02:09:09 AM »



Is there something wrong here? The proper procedure is that 4 swingarm bolts are suppose to be loose when you tighten the axle nut .... to insure that the pumpkin aligns with the 5-star driven flange. In the photo, the 4 swingarm bolts are already loosened as they should be. However the way the strap is hooked to the pumpkin, the strap is yanking up tight on the pumpkin. Would this negate the freeplay that you get from loosening the 4 swingarm bolts? I know you can remove the strap after lowering the rear wheel to the floor and only then tighten the 4 axle bolts. But I think I tightened the 4 axle bolts while the pumpkin and the wheel was still strapped up in the air. Easier to reach the 4 axle bolts that way. And yes, this wouldn't be a hypothethical if the strap was instead wrapped around the swingarm to begin with. The hole for the lower shock bolt is so convenient. Not a wise idea??
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Bone
Member
*****
Posts: 1596


« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2012, 02:58:11 AM »

Good observation, I see the setup in the photo pulling the final drive into shaft. Similar to a jackstand directly under the final drive. Hope I wrote what I'm thinking 5:57 am in Mich.
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hrapp
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Posts: 22


Rosharon,tx


« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2012, 04:47:36 AM »

was this just a wheel removal or replacing the final driven? my guess is that you shouldn't have to loosen those bolts if it's just a tire change. the service manual doesn't have anything about loosing those 4 bolts, that i could find, unless your trying to do an alignment of camber or something.
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1997 valkyrie tourer
1972 shovel
2009 vtx 1300r
1995 sportster
hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16789


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2012, 04:50:19 AM »


Mine is supported with a stick for most of the job, obviously not during the step
where the wheel is rolled back in...



I'm not advocating my way over any other, if I had to describe the way I
work on the bike it would include a lot of words like "fumble" and
"hmmm...?"

The swingarm is really light, the wheel is the heaviest part. After the shocks are
off, I lean over the bike and lift the wheel/swingarm and kick a block under the
wheel to get the axle over the exhaust pipe...

-Mike
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2012, 08:17:37 AM »



Is there something wrong here? The proper procedure is that 4 swingarm bolts are suppose to be loose when you tighten the axle nut .... to insure that the pumpkin aligns with the 5-star driven flange. In the photo, the 4 swingarm bolts are already loosened as they should be. However the way the strap is hooked to the pumpkin, the strap is yanking up tight on the pumpkin. Would this negate the freeplay that you get from loosening the 4 swingarm bolts? I know you can remove the strap after lowering the rear wheel to the floor and only then tighten the 4 axle bolts. But I think I tightened the 4 axle bolts while the pumpkin and the wheel was still strapped up in the air. Easier to reach the 4 axle bolts that way. And yes, this wouldn't be a hypothethical if the strap was instead wrapped around the swingarm to begin with. The hole for the lower shock bolt is so convenient. Not a wise idea??
  Don't know if it's right or wrong but that is how i got my wheel to line up this year after spline service. I had it like that for line up stab the axle install spacer and brake caliper put on the nut and then put the jack back under the tire. How ever long that took was how long i left it suspended. NOT overnight. Not long but when yer working and got good music outa the box i don't look at my watch. 2funny RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
old2soon
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*****
Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2012, 08:24:42 AM »

RONW-see my post-I might be missing the simple thing. That rear wheel thing is addressed by a lot of the Valkyrie gurus on this board whose opinions i respect. Hope this helps. cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2012, 08:40:17 AM »

I leave the shocks in place when pulling the rear wheel taking the back portion of the rear fender off.
I do loosen the four nuts to loosen the pumpkin so it slightly moves as it really helps to align the shaft during the wrestling match getting the gear teeth to line up and sliding in the shaft at the same time. One time I removed the right shock during this maneuver and found it to really help in allowing the pumpkin to move freely. Work like a champ. This will now be added to the route the next time. Everyone has their own way of doing things. I enjoy reading how many different ways there are right or wrong it's personal preference.
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GOOSE
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Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2012, 09:36:48 AM »

if you are just changing the tire, you still should loosen those 4-nuts on the final drive.  it makes it alot easier to align everything back up.
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YoungPUP
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Posts: 1938


Valparaiso, In


« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2012, 10:16:21 AM »

I use a short piece of webbing set up in a choker fashion around th driveshaft tube, and then hook the strap there. I could see how the posted way could put some twistiness in the system.
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)
RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2012, 06:34:44 PM »

thanks everyone for the responses.

The swingarm is really light, the wheel is the heaviest part.

this makes me wonder if it's better to lift the swingarm instead of the wheel to align the axle shaft since as you noted the swingarm is less weight. All it takes is to position the hole in the strapped swingarm a ½ inch below the hole in the wheel than lift up on the swingarm. Instead of the heavier wheel. This is with the method of using the axle to align the 5-star driven flange with the pumpkin .... and without the rear brake bracket and spacer in place. Or am I missing something.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Bigwolf
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*****
Posts: 1502


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2012, 09:05:32 PM »

I put the strap in the shock hole on the left side of the swing arm.  Then I use a floor jack under the wheel to lower and pull the wheel out from under the full fender or to raise the wheel into position when installing it.

With the strap on the left side of the swing arm, there is no twist on the rear drive while installing the axel.  I have the 4 bolts (drive to swing arm) loose until the axel is torqued to spec when installing. 

Wolf
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