De=smog half way done

[JerryH]

Well  - I started the de-smog on Friday afternoon and finally completed the "strip down" of all old parts today.  A lot of things got in the way, such as the brakes going out on the car.  Hopefully the car is repaired and I get to return to the Valk tomorrow.  Getting the air box out was a little trouble some and then came tube #2, front right down under the exhaust.  Had to cut that guy out with three cuts.

Will start to put the Redeye "shiney" kit on and hopefully get in a first ride of the year in the afternoon....75-80 degrees in northern michigan in mid March is not something to let go by.

[wiggydotcom]

Well  - I started the de-smog on Friday afternoon and finally completed the "strip down" of all old parts today.  A lot of things got in the way, such as the brakes going out on the car.  Hopefully the car is repaired and I get to return to the Valk tomorrow.  Getting the air box out was a little trouble some and then came tube #2, front right down under the exhaust.  Had to cut that guy out with three cuts.

Will start to put the Redeye "shiney" kit on and hopefully get in a first ride of the year in the afternoon....75-80 degrees in northern michigan in mid March is not something to let go by.

Jerry, did you go by the Shoptalk write-up by QueXpress? I'd be interested to know if you did any of the following?--remove either side's exhaust headers...remove either side engine crash guard. It also showed in his write up pictures that the radiator was removed(possibly as part of a general teardown). 
This project is on my to do list, but I was wondering if removing the above items was possibly because a cutoff wheel was used as opposed to using dikes and just cutting the tubing as many times as is necessary. Or is it necessary to remove these items to even get to the tubes.
I'd appreciate any answers you could throw out here.

[Chattanooga Mark]

I just read the Red Eye Shiney kit desmog directions yesterday. No mention of or need to remove the crash bars and/or the radiator. I think the QueXpress directions talk about inserting freeze plugs. The Red Eye shiney kit doesn't do it that way at all.

All the best,

Mark

[GOOSE]

You do not have to remove any of those items to do a desmog.

[wiggydotcom]

Thank you, Chicago Mark and Goose. That's good to know.

[Chiefy]

I just read the Red Eye Shiney kit desmog directions yesterday. No mention of or need to remove the crash bars and/or the radiator. I think the QueXpress directions talk about inserting freeze plugs. The Red Eye shiney kit doesn't do it that way at all.

All the best,

Mark

When I put my shiny kit on, I did not have to remove the bars, exhaust or radiator.  It would have been (perhaps) a little quicker and a lot less aggravating if I had removed the bars and exhaust though.  I only took the bars loose.    For the underside, I relied on patience (which I don't normally have.)

[JerryH]

any special hints on putting the spark plug chrome valance's back on.  cyl #6 has that 1" long adaptor bolt that the laft side valance, back end eventually bolts to.  cyl's #2 and #5 have the same set up only with a regualr size hex head.

Jerry

[JerryH]

i took the best of both site:  Quexpress and Redeye.  Quexpress had some good pictures.  Redeye instructions worker pretty good.  I think you need to be ready to do a little personal adaptation to each to fit your needs.  I did take the crash bars off.  It made it a lot easier to get at the underside exhaust holes to block them off. 

I now and figuring out the best way to get the spark plug valance's back on.  then comes the dreded reinstall of the airbox. 

I do have one question for anyone who has done this before::  since there is no air being recirculated in the airbox with the pare valve control now gone.  Does the "dragon drool" drain hose still play a role in the system?


TIA

Jerryt

[Chiefy]

i took the best of both site:  Quexpress and Redeye.  Quexpress had some good pictures.  Redeye instructions worker pretty good.  I think you need to be ready to do a little personal adaptation to each to fit your needs.  I did take the crash bars off.  It made it a lot easier to get at the underside exhaust holes to block them off. 

I now and figuring out the best way to get the spark plug valance's back on.  then comes the dreded reinstall of the airbox. 

I do have one question for anyone who has done this before::  since there is no air being recirculated in the airbox with the pare valve control now gone.  Does the "dragon drool" drain hose still play a role in the system?


TIA

Jerryt

Yes, you still have to drain the spit once in awhile.  And don't forget to plug the hole in the box with the plug that came in the kit!!

[JerryH]

big plug is in place.  will put the air box on tomorrow (hopefully) and get back on the rode soon.

[Chiefy]

big plug is in place.  will put the air box on tomorrow (hopefully) and get back on the rode soon.

Some guys seem to have no problems getting the airbox in.  I thought it was a female dog.  On the other hand, I don't like wrenching either.  If you've never done it, search for airbox installation.  I found a thread where it demonstrated hog tying the air tubes together, and using a ratchet strap to keep it down snug as you reconnect all the tubes.

[Patrick]

I think Normand has the best desmog article out there.. However,the front cover, radiator and all that other STUFF doesn't have to come off unless you want to keep all the tubes intact.. Most fellas just cut them to pieces..
The airbox really isn't difficult to re-install.. Just be careful and take your time.. The difficulty comes when reattaching to the carburetors.. This has to done carefully to make sure the carburetors are not damaged and the tubes are fully connected..

[Blackduck]

Being old school and leaving everthing visually stock (prying LEO eyes) All I did was shorten the nipples on the the alloy headers under the air cleaner and stuff ball bearings into hoses that attach to them ( the ones going to the exhaust ports). Plug the vacuum lines from the middle cylinders and no problems what so ever.
Looks stock and is reversable if you need to.
If you need to ratch strap the air filter housing down then you can guarantee one of the intake tubes is not sitting correctly.
I just lower the airbox in with the right side tubes going in first the fold in the left side tubes till they clear the frame. Easy and no problems.
Cheers Steve

[JerryH]

the air box IS ON - 1 hr.  I then installed a new K & N filter.  Now the question - I know some of you have also put the "Pre-Filter" (gray foam)on  according to the manufacturing instructions.  Also, some of you have left it out.

Pro's and con's - if any for either way?

I'll be putting the tank back on wednesday after work and have the Fat Lady back on the rode this weekend.

I'll take it somewhere to get a carb adjustment and sink soon.


Jerry

[Jess from VA]

Jerry, every time this comes up there's a debate.

The prefilter is called for for Valk.  Some bikes might run a little lean/hot without it.  When the K & N filter oil drys out it doesn't filter so well (if you go long before a tank pull, the prefilter keeps working).  Next year when you pull the tank and check the filter you will be happy to see most of the crud on the prefilter and not down in the paper element.  YMMV

[Chattanooga Mark]

My Interstate doesn't have the re filter. It was gone when I bought it 2 years ago at only 6500 miles. The filter was plenty dirty though and my oem header pipes have gotten warm as they're discolored. Anyone have an item number for the pre filter?

I just use the oem filter as it's so easy to remove and replace instead of cleaning, waiting for it to dry, oiling and then installing. I've have K&N and BMC in previous Moto Guzzis but didn't really see the benefit for the cost.

Thank You,

Mark

[Farther]

I think the higher the elevation you live the better the Valkyrie runs without the prefilter.  I live at 2800 ft and don't run the prefilter.

[Chattanooga Mark]

I started my Redeye shiney desmog kit this afternoon. I have an Interstate and really didn't see any way to get to the right front items without removing the crash bars. I first had to remove my better than oem Mike Terry spot lights.

Getting the airbox out was a bit of a PITA by itself so I'm REALLY not looking forward to re-installing it. It's pretty obvious what comes off and for 3 of the 4 chrome pipes, pair valves and the vacuum actuator you just disconnect them and pull them loose.

The right front chrome pipe is the mother of all right front chrome pipes. I have it loose on both ends but have yet to get it out. Little to no room for a hacksaw blade in their. I also don't want to hurt anything around it. I'm thinking of trying a backwoods type wire cutter. The kind with a ring on each end and you simply use the abrassive wire to make the cut. I'm thinking if I push the pipe up a bit from the bottom and make one cut I'd be able to completely remove this pipe. There's a bracket welded to the chrome pipe that runs to the lower right that hold the top right front chrme pipe end in place. Right where that bracket is is about where it looks like I need to cut it.

So that's where I'm at so far. I have one small vacuum hose with a T that has hoses going to the center two intake manifolds yet to remove. That's easy. I have the right front chrome lower pipe to figure out than I have the plugs to install.

After that, I'll wire up my Dan Marc fuel valve and somehow install that airbox.

More to come.

Mark     

[whitestroke]

Airbox install:
Use 3 nylon ties for each set of adjacent  air-box hoses.  9 ties total.
Hogtie 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 and 6, make them tight enough so they clear frame.
Make sure clamps are above ties.  If need be you can tighten ties during install.
If you cut ties by the end they can be reused.
As mentioned earlier rubber should go over carbs easy with your hand wiggling rubber and your other hand pushing down on airbox. Start at back first (5 and 6) and put in screw when you get 5 and 6 on, then work your way forward.

[OverdueBill]

I just went through all that last weekend.  Got any sheet metal snips?  Cuts right through the pipes.  Installing the air box was a PITA.  Easy to get the tubes back in.  Didn't tie or anything.  Just put the right set in and then push in on the left ones and it drops in.  For me anyway.  Tubes went on pretty easy.  The hardest part I had was the 2 hose connections.  Had to recall profanity I hadn't used in years.  Dan Marc and Golon filter went in very easy.  Good luck.  

[Chattanooga Mark]

I bought a pair of Channel Lock double jointed cutters that worked to help get the right front chrome pipe off. The pliers didn't actually cut all the way through it but enough that after a few bends, it broke. What a PITA that pipe was. The Redeye instructions said to remove the two front and the two rear intake manifolds. I didn't do that as I saw no reason to. Nearly all the parts that get removed come out from above. I also didn't remove the exhaust. But removing the crash bars are, IMHO, a must do to gain access to the front ports and pipes.

I also installed the Dan Marc fuel valve. I attached one wire to where one of the PAIR valve mounting bolts went. The other wire will get attached to the output side of a relay I'll install. I'll power the relay with the accessory leads.

Next I start the dreaded job of reinstalling the airbox. I watched Dag's YouTube video and he almost made it look easy. A  quick search on YouTube under "Valkyrie Airbox" and Dag1520's video will pop right up. His Rear Wheel Removal video is awesome as well.

Getting closer to an actual ride soon, once it stops raining

Mark

[JerryH]

de-smog if finished.  put the shiny parts back on last night and today.  crossed my fingers and hit the start button -----varoom.  Ah! it sounded good, no more popping.  I still need to have the carbs synced.  Anybody know of someone in northern michigan (not a dealer) that can help with that?

Traverse City or north.


Jerry

[Chattanooga Mark]

Congratulations Jerry! It's a good feeling having it done.

Mark

[Chattanooga Mark]

Installing the airbox was actually quite easy! I hog tied it as per Dag's video and managed to get all six rubber boots around the carbs with ease. A small lit inspection mirror really helps with this.

I had to replace the spot light relay as it kept blowing the 5AMP accessory fuse. I have the Dan Marc fuel relay tied into the hot side of the relay along with the spots. I then installed the crash bars and the Mike Terry spot lights. The spots work, the fuel valve clicks on and the Big BF horns perfectly as well. On Saturday I'll install the pods, saddlebags, the tank, add gas then fire it up.

I really like seeing the top of the engine instead of all that smog junk too.

Mark