I checked and adjusted my valve clearance last weekend.

[Disco]

The Service Manual calls for Intakes at .006" and Exhaust at .009". Using go/no-go feeler gauges, here's what I found and corrected to spec.

1 intake OK
1 exhaust tight at .008"

4 intake tight at .005"
4 exhaust OK

5 intake way tight at .004"
5 exhaust tight at .008"

2 intake tight at .005"
2 exhaust tight at .008"

3 intake way tight at .004"
3 exhaust tight at .008"

6 intake way tight at .004"
6 exhaust OK

[shooter64]

How did it run before the adjustments? Can you tell a difference after the adjustment? I was just wondering if I should check mine even though it starts, runs, and idles as it should.

I have been shade tree mechanicing for many years. I think the Valk is the only on the road type vehicle that has mechanical lifters that I have ever seen. I actually thought mechanical (solid) lifters were a race only type thing so that the valves did not float out at high rpm.

[Hoser]

You thought correctly, the 1500 wing has hydralic lifters.  I have adjusted my Valkerie valves only twice in 100k.  Just small tweaks needed.  Hoser 

[Chattanooga Mark]

The Moto Guzzi V Twin is even easier to adjust than the Valkyrie. They've had a simple screw/locking nut arrangement for many, many years.

Mark

[amazngrace]

I had a Kawasaki Concours 1000 with solid lifters. Supposed to check every 6K.
Getting the valve cover off is a major PITA! Adjusting is fairly easy.

16 valve DOHC.

...ED

[BnB Tom]

The Service Manual calls for Intakes at .006" and Exhaust at .009". Using go/no-go feeler gauges, here's what I found and corrected to spec.

1 intake OK
1 exhaust tight at .008"

4 intake tight at .005"
4 exhaust OK

5 intake way tight at .004"
5 exhaust tight at .008"

2 intake tight at .005"
2 exhaust tight at .008"

3 intake way tight at .004"
3 exhaust tight at .008"

6 intake way tight at .004"
6 exhaust OK

At what temp?

Was the engine hot or cold?   ???

Does it run 'zippier' and get better mileage .. I guess that would be an oxymoron statement. 

[Patrick]

Generally thats what happens,, they get tighter..  The ones you need to worry about are the ones you can't hear rattling..  Many engines continue to use mechanical[solid] lifters..

[JaysGone]

Guys as Im new to the bike and rebuilt the engine I have now.
Realistically how often should one check the valves??
Every 25K or so??
Im from the school of if it aint broke why mess with it.
Honestly who ever really goes by Hondas scheduled maintanence???
You would never have time to ride if you did.

After getting the bike running.
Real mileage unknown......odometer with bad gear in the front wheel said 12K on it.
I brought her over to a shop whos main wrench is a GoldWing rider.
He just started up the bike and twisted the wick a few times listened to the engine and said "you did good" nothings out of whack.
He said this a 250K engine if taken care of.
Now I did adjust the valves by ear. As Im not very good at using feeler guages, never have been.
Since they are solid lifters. A little ticking isnt out of the "norm".
They tick a bit a idle but not at all under a slight load......
Im so used to engine noises fron my RoadStar. With a little ticking at idle.
 I dont really even hear any more.

[Patrick]

' Adjusted valves by ear ' .. I like to know how to do that,,but,, I've only been in this business for 50+ years..  Since this engine is up and running then I'd recommend adjusting them the proper way and they should be good for many miles..

[Disco]

How did it run before the adjustments? Can you tell a difference after the adjustment? I was just wondering if I should check mine even though it starts, runs, and idles as it should.

It ran OK, but was beginning to sound like a cash register at idle.  If your bike has less than 50K miles (with no prior adjustment performed), you probably don't need to mess with it.  My bike had 55.5K miles when I adjusted, but only 18K since the the heads were worked over.

simple screw/locking nut arrangement

Same with the Valkyrie.

At what temp?  Was the engine hot or cold?  Does it run 'zippier' and get better mileage .. I guess that would be an oxymoron statement.

Ambient was probably mid-80s.  Engine had not run since the day before.  Zippier?  Maybe, but you know how I distrust the unreliable butt-dyno.  (the sugar pill sure tastes great, though)  It does sound better with less ticking.  Too soon comment on the mileage.  As you know, any one or two tanks can vary so widely as to not be dependable statistics.

Realistically how often should one check the valves??  Every 25K or so??

Factory adjustment seems to last at least 50K miles, and some have gone much farther than that with no problems.  

[Gryphon Rider]

Im from the school of if it aint broke why mess with it.
Honestly who ever really goes by Hondas scheduled maintanence???
After getting the bike running.
He said this a 250K engine if taken care of.
Now I did adjust the valves by ear. As Im not very good at using feeler guages, never have been.

Your mechanic said , "if taken care of."  Adjusting valves by ear and ignoring the maintenance schedule isn't taking care of it.  If you're not good at using feeler gauges, find someone who is to do it for you, then you can ignore them for 20 or 30 thousand miles.  Valve adjustment is the only thing on the maintenance schedule where I would extend the interval, and that's just because the combined experience of tech board users shows that the valves seldom need more than a minor tweaking when checked.  When you ignore some other maintenance items, you will only be messing with it when it IS broke.

[ricoman]

At what temp?

Was the engine hot or cold?   ???



[/quote]



I cannot believe anyone would ask if the engine was "hot" or "cold" regarding a valve adjustment.

Did I miss something? Why/how would you adjust valves on a hot engine?

Valk valve adjustment is just like air-cooled VW's and BMW's.

Did each of my Valks at about 13k miles. Found 3 tight intakes and exhaust on each if memory serves.

[JaysGone]

' Adjusted valves by ear ' .. I like to know how to do that,,but,, I've only been in this business for 50+ years..  Since this engine is up and running then I'd recommend adjusting them the proper way and they should be good for many miles..

I use my feeler guage set them all basically the same open or closed from where they are currently set.
I start and hope for the best.
Ive never had an engine with an obviously way out of spec valve.
Just been lucky I guess.
I learned the hard way.
The 1st time I fried a valve and rebuilt a bike engine was with my 1970 Honda CL450.
I rode it with one exhaust pipe blown out of the header for about 30 miles getting home one time.
Nice blue flame about 14 inches long.
I didnt know what I was doing at all.
Reset everything as I thought it should be.
Kicked the kick started and bent the crap out of the valves.
$400 bill later from Honda and she ran fine for another 4 or 5 years.

Im used to working on older car engines. Just adjust the rocker arms till its quiet.
Ive been valve adjusting shy on bikes since the Honda back then.
And all my current experience is with V-Twins.
Not multi cyclinder engines.
I look at it this way.
If I screw something up badly enough.
I have my local wrench to bail me out.

On a side note.
I want to change the front springs on the Valk. Its more then Id like to get into.
So Ill have it done by my wrench.
I dont want to buy any more tools.
A V-Twin, pop the fork caps drop in the springs and done.
This bikes been alot more work for me, too much new to learn.

[JaysGone]

Im from the school of if it aint broke why mess with it.
Honestly who ever really goes by Hondas scheduled maintanence???
After getting the bike running.
He said this a 250K engine if taken care of.
Now I did adjust the valves by ear. As Im not very good at using feeler guages, never have been.

Your mechanic said , "if taken care of."  Adjusting valves by ear and ignoring the maintenance schedule isn't taking care of it.  If you're not good at using feeler gauges, find someone who is to do it for you, then you can ignore them for 20 or 30 thousand miles.  Valve adjustment is the only thing on the maintenance schedule where I would extend the interval, and that's just because the combined experience of tech board users shows that the valves seldom need more than a minor tweaking when checked.  When you ignore some other maintenance items, you will only be messing with it when it IS broke.

What I should have said is I adjust MOST valves by ear. Meaning car engines and V-Twins.
With rocker arms.

On this one found the middle ground and set them there.
Rightly or wrong.
The bike runs well and has plenty of power.
My local guy has a ton of experience and said it was OK as it sounded to him.
I will in the future if I keep the bike long enough to put 20K on it take care of these things regulary.
Ive never had a multi cylinder bike like this.
V-Twins and V8s dont seem to require the fiddiling around to keep them running well.

[Patrick]

Quote,, I use my feeler guage set them all basically the same open or closed from where they are currently set.
I start and hope for the best.  end quote..

What the heck does that mean ?? I'm surprised this engine runs,, but,, since it does,, I'll stick with my original statement.. Get this thing adjusted correctly and you won't have to ' fiddle' around with it..

Setting the valves on these is really no different than any other rocker arm engine.. The easiest way to do this is to just set the cylinder you want to adjust on or near TDC on compression stroke and set the intake at .006" and the exhaust at .009".. Then just do the same to the rest.. If you don't want to spill any oil just let the bike sit on the side stand for a few minutes then hold the bike over to the right side putting the left valve cover high for a couple minutes.. Then you can remove the valve covers without any spillage.. Do not start the engine with the valve covers removed,, that is,, unless you want to rust-proof everything within a 10 foot area..
 
Changing the front springs shouldn't be much different than on any other bike..

[JaysGone]

It means I set it at TDC for each piston.
I thought at the time back in July the specs were .006 -.009
I did both sides using a .003 and .004 guages and set both sides <everything>to .007.
It runs well, rightly or wrongly.
A little bit of black smoke from the right side exhast when starting the bike cold after sitting a few days.
I will get it checked eventually.

As to the springs.
Every bike Ive owned, pull the cap remove the spring replace with spring.
From the Clymers manual that I have.
It looks like alot more needs to be done then just that to change the springs.
I will have to find the video that showed a guy taking apart his VTX legs to change the seals.
Ill worry about that when I get around to doing it.

[Valkpilot]

The Service Manual calls for Intakes at .006" and Exhaust at .009". Using go/no-go feeler gauges, here's what I found and corrected to spec.

1 intake OK
1 exhaust tight at .008"

4 intake tight at .005"
4 exhaust OK

5 intake way tight at .004"
5 exhaust tight at .008"

2 intake tight at .005"
2 exhaust tight at .008"

3 intake way tight at .004"
3 exhaust tight at .008"

6 intake way tight at .004"
6 exhaust OK

I have no experience with valve adjustment, so a couple of questoins for those that do:

The posts I've read on valve adjustments only mention slight tweaks being needed.  Some of these seem more than tweaks -- as much as 30% off spec.  Is this typical?

If this is wear related, is the incosistency normal?

[Dozer]

Jay...Road Star noisey??  . Mine sounds like a freaking thrashing machine but it sure runs well. It it ever got quiet it would mean that its not running! Make the exhaust loud enough and you'll never hear those engine clanks, clunks and tinks!

[Ricky-D]

There are a couple of items that I take exception to in this thread.

The first is the concept that the Valkyrie had solid valve lifters.

This is not correct.   The Valkyrie has no valve lifters at all.  Simply a cam, rocker arms and valves.

The second is that valves tend to tighten up rather than loosening up.

This again is incorrect. As the rotating parts wear, clearances increase. The valves do not rotate.

If your Valkyrie is running fine, there is no need to suspect a valve adjustment is needed.

***

[98valk]

I adjust my valves .001 over as stated in the archived post. I emailed Vger yrs ago and he had done about 100 dyno pulls to come up with these #s. it makes a difference. He is a big time engine race builder. He was still doing head work at the time. he had MPG and HP ported heads.


7 on intake and 10 on exhaust

Posted By: Deano <deano97@atlantic.net>
Date: 3/22/2003 at 04:47:52

In Response To: Re: Tune up questions?? (BigBF)


is in fact .001 more than the factory sites in the manual. The premise is that these settings allow for more power and seem to have been confirmed by quite a few people here (who would be considered in the know).

If I remember correctly, and I may not, I believe these settings were initially reported by Vger, and if so, were probably confirmed on a dyno. For you new guys, Vger was the one who was first doing head work on the Valks and I believe was working on trying to devolope improved cams when I last heard much about his escapades.

These numbers were reported and have been used by many folks. Myself included on the five or six that I have done. While someone said that the increased clearance allowed the valve to seat longer and dissipate more heat because of it, I always kinda held that premise suspect. Seems to me that the increased clearance might allow the valves to fully seat when runnign at higher RPMs than the 6 / 9 specs. Who knows?

It seemed to work on mine, so I figured it fell in the catagory of Why ask why?.

Deano

ps I don't know how far the board is archived now, but a search may yeild volumes about this premise.
 

[JaysGone]

Jay...Road Star noisey??  . Mine sounds like a freaking thrashing machine but it sure runs well. It it ever got quiet it would mean that its not running! Make the exhaust loud enough and you'll never hear those engine clanks, clunks and tinks!

I have Thunder City baffles. Sounded like a 18 wheelers downshifting with out them.
The R* sounds about right as noisey as it can be with Mean Muthers and basically a welded washer in it.

Just took it for a little 40 mile romp on the Hyw before.
After riding the Valk for a week straight I missed my R*.

I dunno........... this is a Valk board but if I have to chose between the 2 bikes.
Its really no contest which bike Id be keeping.

[RP#62]

There are a couple of items that I take exception to in this thread.

The first is the concept that the Valkyrie had solid valve lifters.

This is not correct.   The Valkyrie has no valve lifters at all.  Simply a cam, rocker arms and valves.

The second is that valves tend to tighten up rather than loosening up.

This again is incorrect. As the rotating parts wear, clearances increase. The valves do not rotate.

If your Valkyrie is running fine, there is no need to suspect a valve adjustment is needed.

***

I take exception to your exception.  If the valve face/seat wears faster than the stem, then you loose clearance over time as the valve seats deeper in the head.  I've seen it go either way and sometimes vary from engine to engine of the same type, but more often than not you loose clearance over time.

-RP

[Disco]

The posts I've read on valve adjustments only mention slight tweaks being needed.  Some of these seem more than tweaks -- as much as 30% off spec.  Is this typical?

From what I've read and been told about the Valkyrie, the first three valve clearance inspections (12,000, 24,000, and 36,000 miles) can almost always be considered optional - that every 50,000 miles is a safe rule of thumb.  I've never heard of anyone having to adjust 9 of the 12 valves at any point.  It's always been one or two valves by no more than .001" or .002".  Furthermore, an experienced Honda/Goldwing/Valkyrie tech told me that the inconsistency is not normal, either.  So, no, according to those who know, this does not appear to be typical.

There are a couple of items that I take exception to in this thread...  

...The second is that valves tend to tighten up rather than loosening up.  This again is incorrect. As the rotating parts wear, clearances increase. The valves do not rotate.

Looks like RP beat me to it...  May be counter-intuitive, but may not be incorrect.  It was explained to me (again, by an experienced, well-respected tech) that, as the valves and heads continue to seat over time, the clearances can, in fact, become smaller.

If your Valkyrie is running fine, there is no need to suspect a valve adjustment is needed.

On that we can mostly agree.  Mine was running OK, but was making too much noise.

I adjust my valves .001 over...

Interesting post, CA.  I look forward to doing some digging.  

[MarkT]

There are a couple of items that I take exception to in this thread.

The first is the concept that the Valkyrie had solid valve lifters.

This is not correct.   The Valkyrie has no valve lifters at all.  Simply a cam, rocker arms and valves.

The second is that valves tend to tighten up rather than loosening up.

This again is incorrect. As the rotating parts wear, clearances increase. The valves do not rotate.

If your Valkyrie is running fine, there is no need to suspect a valve adjustment is needed.

***

I take exception to your exception.  If the valve face/seat wears faster than the stem, then you loose clearance over time as the valve seats deeper in the head.  I've seen it go either way and sometimes vary from engine to engine of the same type, but more often than not you loose clearance over time.

-RP

RP is correct per my experience.  The valves get tighter as the seats wear faster than the stems, meaning they don't seat well and you can burn a valve.  At the least, it becomes hard-starting as the valves aren't fully closing.  With my last adjustment just a month ago, every cylinder had at least one valve too tight, and it was getting hard to start.  It had been a while since I last adjusted them.  After the adjustment - starting is easy again.

[Dozer]

Jay...There a number of things that bother me with the valk. Hydrolock for one and the vacuum petcock that I have had to rebuild twice in three years. Then the carbs can be a source of problems and irritation. I suppose if one owns a valk (or wing) its best to do your own work, have a friend do it for you or spend lots of $$ at a dealers. That said, I am sure there are some who say they've never had any problems at all.
For me, I prefer to ride a V-Twin too...aka twinky here. Lord knows I have has issues with my R* too...in fact its name is Miss Piggy!  
Even though this is my sons bike, I kinda enjoy working on the valk. Its a learning experience and a challange... one thats made more pleasent by those who chose to help those of us who ask questions or for advice. Sad thing is its hard to tell if some one is joking or being serious because we cant see their faces or hear the inflections in their voices. I suppose thats the reason for the smiley faces on the posts. I imagine some of the same questions have been asked 100 times so some folks may get tired of the same o, same o. Lucky for us there are some who arent, and I thank them for their help. Bottom line is, its not what you ride but that you do ride...IMHO

[O-B-1]

At what temp?
Was the engine hot or cold?   ???

I cannot believe anyone would ask if the engine was "hot" or "cold" regarding a valve adjustment.
Did I miss something? Why/how would you adjust valves on a hot engine?

Valk valve adjustment is just like air-cooled VW's and BMW's.

Did each of my Valks at about 13k miles. Found 3 tight intakes and exhaust on each if memory serves.
[/quote]
I may be wrong, but I seem to remember the 1972 SL350 manuals stating to check the valve lash when hot. Maybe that was why they wre asking?
Valkyrie manual says to do so cold....

[JaysGone]

I agree with you a thousand percent and have had all those problems with my scrape heap found Valk.
Its taken 3 scrap bikes 2 fuel tanks 18 carbs and 7 months to make this one.
Which is why it says Reincarnated Valk in my signature.
I do all my own work.

I ask the occasional dumb question here.
Maybe to get a real response sometimes. But mostly I dont have the answer already. It is what I really need to know sometimes. Who knows thats just me and forums.
Some have folks with a sense of humour some dont.
Anywho
Ive takern it to a private shop here in town that I trust 100%. The owner is a long time Wing rider.
Its been checked over and Rich the owner said Ive done good when I asked him about the current valve noises.
He said what Ive got is normal for this engine.
Being from V-Twin backgrounds. We both know from "normal" engine noises well.

The rebuild of this Valk has basically been trial and error, learn as I go.
Since Ive gottern it running its been about a 1100 miles, 32mpg and nothings unsafe or fallen off .................yet!!!!

1st pic is the bike as I got it before going to the heap, non running.
Yes those are purple handle bars!!!!!!!
2nd as it is now, you know whats in the background.....

[98valk]

At what temp?
Was the engine hot or cold?   ???

I cannot believe anyone would ask if the engine was "hot" or "cold" regarding a valve adjustment.
Did I miss something? Why/how would you adjust valves on a hot engine?

Valkyrie manual says to do so cold....

from everything I have read and asked from various people including Vger, cold is considered 80-100F so that the valves will be correct at engine operating temp.

any other thoughts on this?  I have done mine at these temps and no problems in over 20k miles.

[BnB Tom]

On my '59 Velocette, if you didn't adjust them at running temp, it would hardly run at all. 

   Yeah, yeah.  I know the Valk is a different animal.  Was just looking for clarification from the massive intelligence on this forum. 

[Chrisj CMA]

At what temp?
Was the engine hot or cold?   ???

I cannot believe anyone would ask if the engine was "hot" or "cold" regarding a valve adjustment.
Did I miss something? Why/how would you adjust valves on a hot engine?

Valkyrie manual says to do so cold....

from everything I have read and asked from various people including Vger, cold is considered 80-100F so that the valves will be correct at engine operating temp.

any other thoughts on this?  I have done mine at these temps and no problems in over 20k miles.

If the bike ran at all that day I wont do the valves until the next morning....

[ricoman]

At what temp?
Was the engine hot or cold?   ???

I cannot believe anyone would ask if the engine was "hot" or "cold" regarding a valve adjustment.
Did I miss something? Why/how would you adjust valves on a hot engine?

Valkyrie manual says to do so cold....

from everything I have read and asked from various people including Vger, cold is considered 80-100F so that the valves will be correct at engine operating temp.

any other thoughts on this?  I have done mine at these temps and no problems in over 20k miles.

Good point, CA.
Just went into the garage about 20 min ago. Shot the block with my instant on temp gauge-82.6 degrees. Did not pull a valve cover to shoot the valves or rocker arms. Bike has not been run in 2 days.
I consider that a cold engine. Not the same as if the bike were in International Falls in Jan., where the reading may have been 34 or so. Maybe Tuscon in July would have shown near a hundred-still a "cold" engine in that it is not at normal operating temp. You do not adjust the valves unless the engine is cold (not at operating temp). Now please don't tell me when you ride in the winter 100 is normal temp, it isn't-your valve train is well above that.
All that being said, it is a good thing to check/adjust the valves. You cannot hear a tight valve. They can cause issues such as too low temps, too much overlap and burned valves. The Valk has a wonderful engine and way less than average engine issues of any kind. That is not a reason to not follow the recommended maintenance guidelines.

[Gabriel]

The only reason valves have clearance is to allow enough time for the valve itself to dissipate heat into it's seat. (the cylinder head)
Combustion chamber designs and other factors determine the time needed for dissipation, and this is why you see different settings  for different applications.

Now I know someone is going to ask; how hydraulic lifter engines with zero clearances work?
I'm going to paste this explanation because I'm lazy and this says it correctly.

"To understand how the hydraulic lifter is able to accommodate valvetrain slack while maintaining zero lash, we should look at its inner workings. When the valve is closed, the plunger spring in the hydraulic lifter takes up all clearance in the valvetrain. Oil enters the lifter body through feed holes and flows inside to the plunger. The oil continues to flow down through the hole in the bottom of the plunger, around the check valve and through the holes in the check-valve retainer to completely fill the cavity below. As the lifter begins to ride up the cam lobe, the oil below the plunger tries to escape past the check valve. This sudden flow of oil forces the check valve to seat, which seals the hole at the bottom of the plunger. At this time, the full load of the valvetrain is being applied on the lifter, but since a fluid cannot be compressed, the lifter now acts almost as if it were a solid design. "  ✞

[Gryphon Rider]

You see that this thread was active almost five years ago, right?  Some of the participants haven't been to this site in a very long time.

[Gabriel]

I never care about those things, people still come and read these threads, besides it is technology that applies to virtually all combustion engines.
After all, your here right?

 I've been a member for a long time but did not post, so I guess my log-in was discarded? I use a form filler and it does not forget...  

[Chrisj CMA]

Guys as Im new to the bike and rebuilt the engine I have now.
Realistically how often should one check the valves??
Every 25K or so??
Im from the school of if it aint broke why mess with it.
Honestly who ever really goes by Hondas scheduled maintanence???
You would never have time to ride if you did.

After getting the bike running.
Real mileage unknown......odometer with bad gear in the front wheel said 12K on it.
I brought her over to a shop whos main wrench is a GoldWing rider.
He just started up the bike and twisted the wick a few times listened to the engine and said "you did good" nothings out of whack.
He said this a 250K engine if taken care of.
Now I did adjust the valves by ear. As Im not very good at using feeler guages, never have been.
Since they are solid lifters. A little ticking isnt out of the "norm".
They tick a bit a idle but not at all under a slight load......
Im so used to engine noises fron my RoadStar. With a little ticking at idle.
 I dont really even hear any more.

You asked when are valve adjustments due. I would do yours immediately with feeler gauges. Get someone to run the guages if you can't manage them. I don't even like the go no go method, that doesn't teach one how to get the "feel". Just a slight amount of drag that cannot be eliminated by repositioning the guages.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Guys as Im new to the bike and rebuilt the engine I have now.
Realistically how often should one check the valves??
Every 25K or so??
Im from the school of if it aint broke why mess with it.
Honestly who ever really goes by Hondas scheduled maintanence???
You would never have time to ride if you did.

After getting the bike running.
Real mileage unknown......odometer with bad gear in the front wheel said 12K on it.
I brought her over to a shop whos main wrench is a GoldWing rider.
He just started up the bike and twisted the wick a few times listened to the engine and said "you did good" nothings out of whack.
He said this a 250K engine if taken care of.
Now I did adjust the valves by ear. As Im not very good at using feeler guages, never have been.
Since they are solid lifters. A little ticking isnt out of the "norm".
They tick a bit a idle but not at all under a slight load......
Im so used to engine noises fron my RoadStar. With a little ticking at idle.
 I dont really even hear any more.

You asked when are valve adjustments due. I would do yours immediately with feeler gauges. Get someone to run the guages if you can't manage them. I don't even like the go no go method, that doesn't teach one how to get the "feel". Just a slight amount of drag that cannot be eliminated by repositioning the guages.

Jeff, he posted that almost 5 years ago. I haven't seen him on here in a long time.

[Chrisj CMA]

Guys as Im new to the bike and rebuilt the engine I have now.
Realistically how often should one check the valves??
Every 25K or so??
Im from the school of if it aint broke why mess with it.
Honestly who ever really goes by Hondas scheduled maintanence???
You would never have time to ride if you did.

After getting the bike running.
Real mileage unknown......odometer with bad gear in the front wheel said 12K on it.
I brought her over to a shop whos main wrench is a GoldWing rider.
He just started up the bike and twisted the wick a few times listened to the engine and said "you did good" nothings out of whack.
He said this a 250K engine if taken care of.
Now I did adjust the valves by ear. As Im not very good at using feeler guages, never have been.
Since they are solid lifters. A little ticking isnt out of the "norm".
They tick a bit a idle but not at all under a slight load......
Im so used to engine noises fron my RoadStar. With a little ticking at idle.
 I dont really even hear any more.

You asked when are valve adjustments due. I would do yours immediately with feeler gauges. Get someone to run the guages if you can't manage them. I don't even like the go no go method, that doesn't teach one how to get the "feel". Just a slight amount of drag that cannot be eliminated by repositioning the guages.

Jeff, he posted that almost 5 years ago. I haven't seen him on here in a long time.

Ooops. Didn't look at dates. Well I guess he really is due now huh

[The emperor has no clothes]

 

[Hook#3287]

Ooops. Didn't look at dates. Well I guess he really is due now huh

  That's funny and true.

I haven't seen him on here in a long time.

He was active 12-22-16

[3W-lonerider]

last i seen or heard anything from jaysgone. is he hangs out over on the triketalk forum. i think he got rid of the valk and rides a goldwing trike now..