Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
August 19, 2025, 11:09:46 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: How to safely change shocks?  (Read 1838 times)
localyokel
Member
*****
Posts: 17

Newport Beach CA


« on: June 02, 2012, 12:07:23 PM »

I need to change my shocks out. What is the best way to lift the bike? I have a hydraulic floor jack but the bike needs to be stable. Also, what is the best jack point? Under engine block I assume.
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14806


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2012, 12:22:00 PM »

best way is with a motorcycle lift



Then just pluck the shocks off one at a time..old one off new one on X2

Logged
JaysGone
Member
*****
Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2012, 02:27:01 PM »

I need to change my shocks out. What is the best way to lift the bike? I have a hydraulic floor jack but the bike needs to be stable. Also, what is the best jack point? Under engine block I assume.


I assuming here all you have is a regular say 2 ton car type jack??
And standard 13 inch shocks.
If so.
I just did mine this way last week for all of 10 minutes that it took.
Leave the bike on the side stand.
Remove the top bolts, both sides.
Loosen the bottoms, both sides but dont take them out!!!
Get a piece of 2x6 or a 6x6 piece of plywood.
Put the board on top of the jack under the center of the swingarm towards the engine.
Just put enough pressure on the swingarm to relieve any pressure on the shocks.
Dont lift  it more then a quarter inch and the shocks should come off, with a gentle tug without upsetting the bike.

Ignore everything I just typed if you have lowering shocks 12.5 inches or less.

The propper way would be a regular motor cycle lift as pictured.
Logged


                 

      1999 Valk - SOLD
      2005 Yamaha RoadStar
      2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
Mofla
Member
*****
Posts: 279

San Antonio TX


« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2012, 07:12:29 PM »

Be careful not to overtighten the bottom right bolt into final drive. Mine snapped I thought rather easily ! Angry
Logged
JaysGone
Member
*****
Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2012, 08:43:18 PM »

Be careful not to overtighten the bottom right bolt into final drive. Mine snapped I thought rather easily ! Angry

Not a true technical reply on my part sorry guys.
But that sucks big time.............
Logged


                 

      1999 Valk - SOLD
      2005 Yamaha RoadStar
      2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14806


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2012, 05:04:47 AM »

Be careful not to overtighten the bottom right bolt into final drive. Mine snapped I thought rather easily ! Angry

Not a true technical reply on my part sorry guys.
But that sucks big time.............

Believe me.....just about EVERY Valk I work on, the first time that bolt was so tight it was unbelievable.  That is a pin, it doesnt hold any better the tighter you make it......all it needs to be is snug like a spark plug so it wont back out on its own....same with the other bolt everyone over tightens and that is the caliper plate hold pin.........use some anti sieze on the new one and just snug it
Logged
JaysGone
Member
*****
Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2012, 05:19:04 AM »

I have found this bike in general harder to work on then any other bike Ive ever owned.
I dont know if its over engineered.
Or horribly engineered but a PIA in general.
I started from nothing with my rebuild, not even a manual.
Ive never needed one for a V-Twin.
Logged


                 

      1999 Valk - SOLD
      2005 Yamaha RoadStar
      2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
pocobubba
Member
*****
Posts: 189


Pocomoke , Md


« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2012, 05:29:47 AM »

It takes patience and time to work on these bikes . I have the time but sometimes I lack the patience but we've got a great and unique bike .
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14806


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2012, 08:02:12 AM »

I have found this bike in general harder to work on then any other bike Ive ever owned.
I dont know if its over engineered.
Or horribly engineered but a PIA in general.
I started from nothing with my rebuild, not even a manual.
Ive never needed one for a V-Twin.

Its easy when you know how to do it right........a manual, shop talk and advise from this site should ease your pain.  I find it quite easy to do most things by myself.  Or just send me your Valkyrie....Ill keep it in tip-top shape
Logged
JaysGone
Member
*****
Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2012, 08:17:29 AM »

As Im sure you know my back ground is 100% V-Twins and V8s.
Now regardless of what you may think about them in general.
Like anything older they are easier to work on.
A bikes a bike for the most part.
But not this one.
The Valk doesnt fit into any neat little box.
Boxer engines are a design on their own.
Uniquely different learning curve.
I have the Clymers and OEM Manual now.
I didnt when I bought this bike.
Its the small things that fustrate me Chris.
Needing compression tools to change a fork spring???
Vacuum for a petcock to work????

These things are not normal in my world.
Ill learn............
Logged


                 

      1999 Valk - SOLD
      2005 Yamaha RoadStar
      2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14806


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2012, 08:47:15 AM »

As Im sure you know my back ground is 100% V-Twins and V8s.
Now regardless of what you may think about them in general.
Like anything older they are easier to work on.
A bikes a bike for the most part.
But not this one.
The Valk doesnt fit into any neat little box.
Boxer engines are a design on their own.
Uniquely different learning curve.
I have the Clymers and OEM Manual now.
I didnt when I bought this bike.
Its the small things that fustrate me Chris.
Needing compression tools to change a fork spring???
Vacuum for a petcock to work????

These things are not normal in my world.
Ill learn............

Well shes a big heavy bike.  A lift sure makes tons of things easier.......As is the case for the OP in this thread, changing shocks is as easy as changing your underwear once its up on a lift.  Without trying to hyjack this thread too much:

I agree the petcock is terrible....I changed to a non-vacuum Pingel

Some have gotten good at the front forks.....I just removed mine and took them to a Honda Dealer I had a good relationship with....they changed the seals for me for $90.  Not even worth my effort if I can get it done that cheap.  Them forks are the final frontier for me, I havent learned them yet either

However, valves, air cleaner, wheels, brakes, lights, anything I needed done except the forks has been a cake walk if I used the wealth of knowledge on this site and used the Honda Book as primary guide......and the lift!
Logged
localyokel
Member
*****
Posts: 17

Newport Beach CA


« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2012, 01:00:15 PM »


Yeah it's got 11 inch lowering shocks. Guess I'll need the lift.  Cry



I need to change my shocks out. What is the best way to lift the bike? I have a hydraulic floor jack but the bike needs to be stable. Also, what is the best jack point? Under engine block I assume.


I assuming here all you have is a regular say 2 ton car type jack??
And standard 13 inch shocks.
If so.
I just did mine this way last week for all of 10 minutes that it took.
Leave the bike on the side stand.
Remove the top bolts, both sides.
Loosen the bottoms, both sides but dont take them out!!!
Get a piece of 2x6 or a 6x6 piece of plywood.
Put the board on top of the jack under the center of the swingarm towards the engine.
Just put enough pressure on the swingarm to relieve any pressure on the shocks.
Dont lift  it more then a quarter inch and the shocks should come off, with a gentle tug without upsetting the bike.

Ignore everything I just typed if you have lowering shocks 12.5 inches or less.

The propper way would be a regular motor cycle lift as pictured.
Logged
JaysGone
Member
*****
Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2012, 02:45:20 PM »

Or a friend to help steady the bike.
But 1.5 inches is a heck of a strain on an already shakey side stand.
Same as every one elses and currently on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-2792.html
Logged


                 

      1999 Valk - SOLD
      2005 Yamaha RoadStar
      2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
SigrĂșn
Member
*****
Posts: 156


Lewisville, TX


« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2012, 07:57:02 PM »

Or a friend to help steady the bike.
But 1.5 inches is a heck of a strain on an already shakey side stand.
Same as every one elses and currently on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-2792.html


And while you're getting yourself one of those, you might want to have a peek at this item on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-DONT-BE-STRANDED-WITHOUT-IT-1-M-C-ITEM-/170789262492?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c3d5549c&vxp=mtr

Had one of those for a couple of years and it sure beats the hell out of piling 2"x4" on top of each other....

Logged

IBA #54465
9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2012, 03:50:30 AM »

It's one of the easier jobs to swap shocks...I think you'll find that it took longer to research the job than to actually do it.

With a helper you should get it done in about 10 minutes.

I did both of mine on the sidestand, one at a time, but I was replacing with same length shocks.

Good luck and be sure to report back.  Put a smear of grease on the bottom right "pin" after you clean it up real good to make it easier the next time you need to remove this bolt when removing the final drive for cleaning/lubricating.  Chris gave some great advice (above) regarding tightening.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2012, 03:53:22 AM by jrhorton » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
JaysGone
Member
*****
Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2012, 04:58:55 AM »

Chris I think the original gentleman has gotten more then enough info on jacks.
The Harbor Freight at $80 is a bargin and as for the stand extention easy enough to make from wood.

As to my front end.
Yes Im letting my local guy do it.
Just isnt worth my efforts.
I will just bring him the legs and let him have at it on his shop time.


By the way I do appreciate all the info you have given.
Not all here have been as helpful with some of my simple questions.

No need to reply.
Just accept my thanks.
Jay
Logged


                 

      1999 Valk - SOLD
      2005 Yamaha RoadStar
      2010 GoldWing with Motor Trike Kit
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: