Slight decel popping question.

[JaysGone]

Whats the odds on a desmogged bike all else being correct.
That a bad intake o-ring would cause a very slight pop on deceleration??

I have to admit when I did my carb work. I didnt change the o-rings.
I sprayed them all with carb cleaner after starting the bike one at a time.
But that doesnt always work checking for leaks.
No clue when they were changed if ever.
1999 Valk.

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Jay,
Make sure you check the header nuts after every few rides when changing the exhaust for the first hundred miles or so..  Ive tightened mine 3 times already since putting on the new exhaust.  This will for sure cause popping.

[Chrisj CMA]

Have you tightened the 18 intake clamp screws?  (3 sets of 6)

[Mofla]

My annoying pop was on the cylinder of the carb with a partial clog on the slow jet. I'm sure u cleaned them though .

[JaysGone]

In truth Chris the set of carbs thats on the bike now were set #3.
I wont get into what was what with #s1 and 2. Let just say set 1 involved a ball pean hammer!!!!!!!
Set 2 had more then 1 bad float fuel pin bowls.
Set 3 came off a 2000 Standard with 22K on it.
This set I just bolted up and it started right up so I left them alone.
Clogged jet is a small posibility.
But I dont think so.
I add a premixture of 4 ozs of MMO and tectron to every tank.
Ive put on 1400 miles so far.
Just a habit Ive had for over 20+ years.
I like my carbs clean enough to eat cerial out of the bowls.
Runs strong gets 32 mpg, local commuting daily.

When I had those H&Ks on my bike John.
They were popping more then a pop corn machine does on decel.
10% of why I put the baffles in was the popping.
90% of the reason you have them now they still popped.
Happy as heck with the OEMs even with the popping they have.

All nuts checked and rechecked 2x already on the pipes.
I added cap nuttz there too.
I used new copper gaskets when I put the pipes on John.
So I know Im good there too.

I had one clamp a little loose on the #1 intake off the filter side.
Thats changed nothing.
What a PIA that filter box is to line up those boots.
I frekkin hate that air box with a passion.

If I get my butt out of bed tomorrow.
Ill pick up some Viton O-rings as a last ditch effort.
Change out the manifolds.
As I dont downshift much. The popping does not bother me, as when the letting off of the throttle at speed does.

The more thought I give it it has to be the o-rings.
When I had the carbs off last, they were flattened but still above the mating surface.
They are sillycon not rubber or urethane
Maybe ones or more is a bit more crushed now??

On my R* Ive bent more then one stud, stripped out other bolts etc. doing manifolds.
Trying to actually only use say 14ft/lbs.
When I put this bike back together I used my built in torque gauge<bad left arm>. Tighten, then 1/4  more turn........I might just check those numbers too tomorrow.

[JaysGone]

Ok I took off all the intakes this morning.
Ive had some sort of oily residue around the #6 intake for a while.
Its dried fuel and my MMO Id gather.
I hope you guys can see the residue as an orange color on the bottom of the intake.
I hope this is it................

PS: the o-rings are hard and flat as pancakes too.

Edit: Here we are 2 hours later and 2 parts stores.
O-rings are changed and bikes 95% quieter.
Almost no popping on decel just a slight burrble.
With OEM pipes Id say its normal.
4 out of 6 rings had the residue on them.
Id say its the MMO for sure since it really doesnt burn on the way down to the combustion side.

Im almost happy.
Cant get the front springs out without some thing to compress the rods.
Dammed Valkyrie.
Another easy job on any other bike made 3 times harder on this one.

[Thunderbolt]

Check the small vac lines on the side of the carbs that operate the cut valves.  They will look good from the side, but if you look at them from the ends when you take them off, they will have cracks and will suck air and the cut valves will not do their job.

[JaysGone]

Appeciate the tip.
I wouldnt have given that a though.